I need to change the release bearing in my 00 se maxima. So I'm just going to change the clutch and everything while I'm at it. Ive searched the fourm a bit for my questions answer so far no luck. How ****ty is it to drop the tranny in a maxima. I used to own 240sx's and had it down to about 45 minutes and it was out. I have never done a FWD tranny just curious if anyone has done it or if theres a write up on it?

Also is it difficult to get the tranny to line up while trying to bolt it back up?

 

It's not that hard at all. Maybe 30 minutes, with a bit of experience. First time, give yourself ~2 hours. The biggest PITA is going to be the control rod bolt, most likely. That or the carrier bearing on the passenger side axle.

Trans removal:
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/805
Or see the FSM, Haynes, etc.

Not that bad at all to line back up. It's a lot easier with two people, though.

 

thanks a lot man

 

hellooo new issue
first my alternator is a rebuilt with lifetime....
on my way home my abs and seatbelt started flashing...eventually the car shut off. so is it the alternator or the battery?

Juan

 

Have you had either tested? Most auto parts places will test them for free.

 

No the Light is not showing. I am suprised nobody seems to have experienced what i am going through. I guess i am somewhat special but in sort of a bad way

 

I just bought clear side markers for my 2000 max and the bulbs are white now. Does anyone know if there are laws against white lights on the side of your car? Does anyone know what size bulbs they are?

 

Cattman's catback system, all by itself on the stock pipes, has more of a rattle than a rumble. However, after installing Cattman's Y-Pipe, the tone deepens quite nicely, (as do the power gains.) It's no Borla, but very pleasant none the less.

BTW, Brian Catts has truly excellant customer service. He personalizes his transactions with a professional and trusting manner. He's a good guy.

 

it literally died when i parked at home last night. I am planning on taking the old battery out and getting the warranty on it.

I haven't tested either yet, but it is on todays agenda......

I thought when the ABS and airbag light is on, the alternator is dead. but I don't know what it means when the seatbelt and ABS light are on and flashing.

Juan

 

So since nobody replied with a definitive answer does that mean for sure that no one else can tell me exactly what this problem is(the jerking) and how to fix it???

 

lol new tranny....i bet if you searched on here you wouldve found an answer, but youre a noob so its ok

 

How did your mechanic adjust your timing? The only way I know of is a Consult II machine, which usually only dealers have?

Have them check fuel pressures, tranny solenoids etc. There is no way to give a "definitive" answer of a internet forum.

 

Here is a link to the thread that this question is from. I don't know to much about the internals of the engines so I posted this for him.

http://www.mnsportcompacts.net/forum/showthread.php?t=82574

The question:

2000 Maxima VG30DE Ignition misfire
So my sister's Maxima is throwing codes.

The codes are as follows:

-P0303
Cylinder 3 misfire Detected

-P1320
Distributor Signal Interrupt

-P300
Random Misfire Detected

I hope to not replace all the coil-packs on the engine. The No. 1 ignition coil was just replaced and the coil and plug wire assembly for the rear cylinders (1,3,5) was just replaced. Any help with diagnosing what the problem is and what should be done under a budget would be appreciated.

 

It's a VQ, not a VG. P1320 is an ignition signal error, no such thing as a distributor on a VQ.

Does it have the updated coil packs on it? If not, should probably replace the set.

Test the number 3 coil if you're having the issue on cylinder 3, that's the obvious thing to do.

 

hey guys. im looking for the20th ae headlights if anyone can help. i cheak out older threads, messages ppl, no answers! trying my luck!! thanks

 

I have a 2003 Maxima SE (Automatic / 120K miles) and 6 months ago the acceleration was so POWERFUL that it would literally leave you behind as the car leaped forward. The acceleration was so powerful that the Injen intake would make an incredibly loud awesome noise that sounded like a fighter jet especially when I passed people as the intake's noise would bounce off people's cars.

Now the sad news, six months ago it seems like out of nowhere I just lost at least 30% of that performance. No more powerful acceleration, and naturally no more explosive noise coming out of the intake, car just runs as if someone shot >55 horses and left 200 for me to drive with.

I could drive 80 miles per hour on the freeway and it'll be very smooth and even give me 28-31mpg but if that's all I wanted I would get a damn Prius.

I can't explain it but it just doesn't have the power any more.

I took it to the Dealers and they're all a bunch of idiots they act like they never drove a Maxima before. To these Dealer Techs. as long as the car doesn't throw a code it's perfectly fine. and that's a problem, I wish the car threw a code for the loss of power so I could rub it in the dealer's face and get them to fix the problem but unfortunately, no the car just doesn't have that powerful acceleration anymore and I have no idea why.

Also, although the performance loss is ALWAYS THERE and NOT intermittent about 1 in 100 times I floor the car it will have a very small amount of hesitation or missing, not sure what to call it almost as if the car is ready to explode with power but there's something choking it. Tried to duplicate this rare and very small amount of " missing " to the dealer but of course it doesn't do it when you're there and the lack of acceleration is not enough for them.

I've been driving the car like this for about 6 months with no codes coming up, this is basically not even a Maxima anymore might as well be driving around Saturn or some crap.

If I can't fix this problem and I'm stuck driving around an under-powered piece of crap with those morons @ the dealership that don't have any intelligence beyond a check engine light then I am never buying a Nissan again and will probably sell this crap for a 4 cylinder that runs like crap like it's supposed to. So you guys are my last hope. Thank you.

 

I know they are 194s up front. Go to Autozone and look in the catalog. Then buy the bulb size you need but colored amber up front and red in the rear. Don't use clear bulbs in clear side markers.

 

car died after getting the new battery. i just replaced the alternator like 2 months ago, and it was a pain in the ***. anybody can shine light on a better procedure on replacing the alternator.

Juan

 

Not sure this is the same thing but last year I noticed power loss and trouble at idle.

I took it in to find out I had sucked up some water with my Injen CAI. Once taken care of my car idled strong and I got that bit of boost I had previously known back.

Not sure if the problem is related but thought I'd share my experience anyways.

 

I ordered some OBX Headers saturday and am eagerly waiting to get 'em on.

I just paid my 2k2 SE off and now am trying to beef the bastard up! Had a noob question for you guys... I know I'll get killed for this, but I'm trying to learn here.

1.) By getting the headers, can I still get a Y-Pipe? Or does the header set-up already have one on it? 2.) If so... would you recommend a B-Pipe? 3.) Where does that fall in line on the exhaust flow?

Is it CAI -> Intake -> Headers -> Y-Pipe -> B-Pipe -> Cat Back?

4.) What is a down pipe? 5.) A test pipe?

6.) Also... any ideas on what a shop would charge for the header installation?

Thanks for your help fellas!

 

First off, maybe this is a good deal for someone? I am not sure.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Parts-Accessories___NISSAN-MAXIMA-HEALIGHT-R-S-OEM-HID-XENON_W0QQitemZ270356713740QQddnZPartsQ20Q26Q20Acc essoriesQQddiZ2811QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Tr uck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item270356713740&_trksi d=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A1171|65%3A12|39%3A1 |240%3A1318

Second, I am interested in doing a HID conversion, I have done a little bit of research as to not ask a question that I could easily find the answer to. Anyway, I have an offer to buy the below for $65, and am curious as to whether or not this is a good deal, or if I would be better off buying an aftermarket conversion kit. Also what else might I need besides these pieces? Bulbs are used btw.

 

Thank you C-Young,
I am not experiencing any idle problems and have not sucked up any water through my CAI.

 

Thanks C-Young for your response but I am not experiencing any problems with idle and did not suck up any air with the CAI.

 

1. Headers will come with a Y, and if you're going for Cattman, OBX you can't use a factory style Y-pipe.
2. The B-pipe is fairly restrictive, you should replace if it you're looking for as much power you can have on the cheap. Even better, just go with a full Cattman exhaust.
3. The exhaust flow is like this- Exhaust manifolds/Y/converter/B/rear section (muffler).
4. Downpipe can be considered the same as the Y, but it's mostly used in reference to turbo vehicles.
5. A test pipe replaces your main converter. Doesn't gain much if any power, and will increase your emissios output.
6. Call up the shop of your choice and ask, they'll be able to look up the labor hours and tell you how much they charge hourly. Different shops charge vastly different hourly rates, so we can't really say.

 

Oski,

Not sure...but these cars have a lot of system integration from what I have learned and maybe...just maybe....maybe....it could be your MAF? Not sure how/why that would make a terrible shift, but who knows, it does affect a number of things on the car and it might just be going/gone out.

Mine went out sometime back, but the response was gutless when giving it the gas and the only way to accelerate was slowly. Sounds a little bit like your situation but not entirely. Check that MAF out if you have not already. BTW, if it is your MAF, dont buy it from the dealer for $$$$$$ when you can buy it elsewhere for approx $100. Check the forums on this site.


Maybe someone else who knows more will have more input.

 

Thanks for clarifying that for me. Your help is greatly appreciated.

For reference, I called my local nissan service department today and they quoted me $800 for the header install. Ok, that's more than double what I paid for the headers.

Does that qoute seem out of control? Should I be able to do a lot better?

What have some others paid?

 

Anyone please?

 

Keep the drama story to yourself and give us just the details. Most of us don't want to sit here and read a page just to get figure out what's going on.

With that said, start by changing your MAF sensor.

 

Sounds reasonable. Figure $65-100/hr. You can do alot better if you do it yourself.

 

Keep the drama story to myself?
This is a Forum for communicating freely, I expect a useless statement like yours regarding " drama " from my local Nissan dealership not a true enthusiasts because a true enthusiast knows that DRAMA is a very integral part of life and especially anything you're enthusiastic about.

That being said, my MAF was replaced 6 months ago.

 

capframe-
You might want to settle down since you will have a hard time getting help if you are cocky. VQ power was saying "get to the point, man and forget the small details that are NOT pertinent!!!!!" There's TONS of help on this site from TONS of knowledgable guys and nobody really wants to read a chapter when it's only a small paragraph of real & pertinent info.

Chill out...get to the point...and dont bite the hands that feed you...

 

If in order to get help I have to bow down to ******** like VQ power then he can kiss my *** and screw Nissan and all their stupid *** cars that run like crap after the warranty expires, I'm selling this piece of crap to some idiot and getting myself a regular cheap/used American car that runs like crap but priced accordingly.

 

Yep, one vehicle is a good representative sample of an entire company's product.

Great language there, too. At least we aren't going to have to see any more of you around these parts.

 

Please calm down, dont force my hand.

Get your VIN number and ask the service advisor (if he isnt too pissed at you by now) to check and see if the "Lack of Power TSB" NTB xxx-023 (i forget the first 3 digits) has been done to your car. Another thing, I was one of the first people to get an Injen intake for a 5.5 gen. It made the engine run rich enough to melt the precats. Do yourself a solid and chuck that intake in the trash.

You can take your car to a dyno shop, it should read around 197whp on a Dynojet machine. Do that after you get the TSB done (it's an ecu reflash, takes about 2 hours). If that hasnt restored all your power, you might want to look at buying a set of stock manifolds from another member or going with aftermarket headers.

 

Please dont antagonize. Thanks.

 

E55AMG2,
Yeah, the Service Manager has already looked at my car three times and has replaced the Precat, the MAF, all six spark plugs, some kind of valve thing that he claimed was leaking some oil into the spark plug area but $4,000 later still running the same...
can't just buy manifolds and headers to fix lack of performance...

 

Good news the jerking suddenly stopped today after some 2 months. Someone suggested somewhere to try changing the fuel filter and that is exactly what i did. However i changed the filter about 3 days ago and the jerking stopped today. The only other thing i did from that time was change 3 of my tires.

I am so happy to have that stop i get full power and acceleration. I feel like a man on the road again

Ithink i will still take the car to a diagnostic shop to see if anything shows up. Someone else suggested it might be the crank shaft or something like that. I am a newbie on these terms. I had to actually look up what the MAF sensor was lol.

 

Precats are built into the manifolds. To replace one, you have to replace the other. Ask him about the Lack of power TSB...

PS: Valve Cover Gaskets...and yes, they are a PITA to replace

 

Regarding the lack of power TSB, although we didn't talk about the specific TSB, the content of the TSB was indirectly addressed. 6 months ago Good Year incorrectly cleaned MAF and they paid to have Nissan Dealer put a new one in so that takes care of that and the ECU reprogramming I went to well-known TechnoSquare in Torrance, CA and had him reprogram my ECU twice and when that didn't fix my problem he refunded me and said " your car isn't getting enough fuel, runs too lean and I don't know why ".

 

Did the nissan dealer do the flash? it is supposed to be free, and if you dont have the AM-600 MAF meter, they are supposed to replace yours with one. Replacing the MAF alone will not solve your lack of power issue. If your car is indeed running lean, it wont be missing power...the lack of power in these cars comes from too much fuel choking the engine.

If you really want to solve this problem, please take my advice.

PS: I was the donor for the TS ecu back in 2003...nothing their programming does will fix what is wrong with your car.