Recently discovered this site and it's already causing marital problems as my wife thinks she's becoming a Maxima.org widow.

One question - I've taken my upper intake manifold off a couple of times over the past couple of weeks (for good reason). It wasn't until reading on here that I realized that the gasket shoud be changed each time. With my having done it twice, is it really important enough to warrant removing it again to replace the gasket?

 

I'm new here too, but I can answer your question. Although it is recommended that you change the gasket each time it is not crucial. However, each time the intake is off, you should make sure and visibly inspect the gasket to make sure it is still in good shape and not bent.

 

Hi,
could anybody post/pm a picture, where is PCV located?

there is a clip on youtube, but it's for 4th gen, is it the same for 5th gen?

 

Have you searched? There are pictures of its location at the least, I believe there's a writeup as well.

It's down by the TB, sticking out of the rear valve cover pointing towards the driver's side fender.

 

May as well ask another. I get a buzzing sound coming fromt he front end (pretty sure dirver's side) that's based on MPH, not RPM. It's definitely a buzz, not a ping or rattle, etc... I can start to hear it about 25MPH and it gets higher pitched and louder the faster I go. When the RPMs drop from shifting to higher gears, it is not affected at all.

After reading a lof of threads yesterday, I went and drove it and realized that the sound does intensify when the wheel is turned, but not all that much. But it still only does it at higher speeds. When I'm turning at a cross street I hear nothing.

And lastly, nothing happens when hitting bumps or anything like that would normally be the case for struts. I'm thinking bearing of some kind, but hoping not.

 

somebody point me to the right direction on how to replace a VIAS control solenoid valve please?

 

You aren't new here!

 

I've had so many problems with my 01 AE Maxipad over the past year, I'm not sure where to start. I have the IAC valve issue... which apparently has damaged the ECU. I think I have that diagnosed and will be sending my ECU off for repair.

My speedo used to work intermittently, now it's almost always dead. My ABS light has been similarly intermittent (ABS light is almost always on now). The odometer isn't tracking mileage either. The cluster hasn't been worked on in the 30k miles that I've owned it (currently 94k). Also, my O/D light blinks when I start my car. Could these items be linked together??

The only code I'm showing is P0500.

TIA

 

my ID is not new, but my knowledge is

 

I just recently pick up a 2002 maxima. I had a problem with one of my tires and I was checking for tires. How come the tire that is on my car now (225/55/R17) are different than the ones that I see on any site like tire rack (225/50/R17). Do I have the wrong size tires on my car now? If so can this do any damage to anything?

 

i think you should be ok, the difference between those is just different hieghts of sidewall....

 

Another curious question. My 02 GLE does not have the grey-dot coils. If none of the coils are "bad", will getting the better grey-dot coils make a difference in performance? Mine just seems to be ever-so-slightly missing something at higher RPMs. It's not to the point that something is "bad" and has to be replaced, but it's more like it could be a little better. I put the NGK Iridium one step colder plugs in and that made a significant difference (there were cheap after market ones before). I also seafoamed out the intake, the oil, and the gas. That also made some difference.

But I'm debating swapping out coils for the better ones, but don't want to do it if it won't impact performance.

 

*crickets*

 

Has anyone tried the Sam's Club certified automatic transmission fluid before? For $21 we can get 12 qt here.

http://www.samsclub.com/shopping/nav...=5&item=179492

I just bought a 2002 Maxima SE with 97k on it. The ATF looks a little brown in color when dip on a paper towel. I don't know if the previous owner has ever changed it.

I've heard about scary stories about changing ATF for high miles cars. So I want to do a couple of drain-and-fill just to be safe with somewhat cheap ATF. Mobil and Amsoil are good but expensive, $8+ a qt here.

Can anyone post experiences with the Sam's club cheap ATF?

Thank you very much!

 

might need to sell that car before it gets worse...

Check the fluids and lubricants section... if I were you I wouldnt risk using cheap products in the car, esspecially for transmission. Maybe use it to flush and then fill with something better.

 

Sounds like a faulty ABS sensor at one of your wheels. You should hook a diagnostic machine to find out which sensor. A bad wheel sensor will cause your ABS light, speedo, etc to be off.

 

Thanks for the heads-up.

Since I am not going to flush the fluid and won't even touch the torque converter, is it OK to convert to using Synthetic fluid, like Mobil? That way, the new fluid will be blended with the old fluid (5qt?). That will definitely affect the performance, right?

What do you think is the best and safest way (97k miles) to do the transmission maintenance in this particular situation?

Thanks in advance.

 

[quote=MaxiPad

My speedo used to work intermittently, now it's almost always dead. My ABS light has been similarly intermittent (ABS light is almost always on now). The odometer isn't tracking mileage either. The cluster hasn't been worked on in the 30k miles that I've owned it (currently 94k). Also, my O/D light blinks when I start my car. Could these items be linked together??

The only code I'm showing is P0500.

TIA[/quote]

I had a problem with my ABS light on it wound up being the right rear sensor. But while I was troublshooting, I removed the connector for the ABS system, under the hood (drivers side). I put paperclips in the connector to meter the signal. After that the speedO was intermittent. I had to disassemble the connector and crimp the metal connections that I had spread with the paper clip.

There is a proceedure to find what is turning your ABS light on. You ground pin 9 on the ODB plug, (under the dash) and count the clicks like morris code. It will shart with 12 ( one long, two short) then read the error, mine was 31 ( R.Rear sensor bad). I hope this helps.

 

Newbie here with a lame first go.
I've had the engine out of a 2000 Maxima SE for over a year (long, sad story) and am just now getting the car back together. Problem is that my memory sucks and I have a part left over... a tensioner that I found in a baggie marked "Alt tensioner", so I am looking for assurance that it does NOT belong to this car. The power steering pump is installed, so it's not that one (used studs/nuts vice bolts to make installation of the PS tensioner easier given its awful location). The alternator is in, solidly held by the long lower mounting bolt and the upper mounting bracket, and its belt tensioned by the separate idler pulley tensioner on the timing cover. I've searched, read the motorvate alt installation write up, studied the FSM and parts diagrams - none of which seem to indicate another alternator tensioner beside the idler already installed. I just can't explain where this other tensioner came from, and its driving me nuts.
Thanks - and let this be a lesson to me - take more notes & photos!
Appreciate any feedback.
Mack

 

Hi, my driver's door's striker needs adjustment. (The little ring on the pillar, where the door mechanism laches onto the body). I've read the manual on how to adjust it, however it is simply a picture with 4 arrows pointing in different directions of the striker and the torque rating for the screws.

I'm wondering, how do I adjust it. I'm thinking once i've loosened/removed the screws, the only option I have is to screw it right back where it was. Or once I have unscrewed it, is there some fancy gizmo behind the striker I can adjust. I just dont want to take off the screws and find out I've dropped the gizmo or screws or whatever, inside of the pillar and can't retrieve it again.

So How do i adjust it? THanks a lot.

 

It would be easier for anyone to offer help if you posted a picture of the part in question.

 

I'm not new but have a newb question.
Anyone know what causes this? Looks like my shim slipped out and is now rubbing against the rotor. Is there anything else I need to check once I pull off the caliper to replace the shim? This is the front passenger wheel. I noticed the noise when driving near a brick wall as the sound was reflecting from it.


2001 GLE w/122k miles, Hawk HPS Pads, Brembo Slotted Rotors, Pads replaced at 100k, still have good amount life remaining

 

Defective pads most likely. Don't the Hawks come with the shim already adhered?

 

Hello, newbie here with a newbie-like question... I am looking into replacing the muffler on my 02 Gle because it is rusted completely through, and is pretty much shot. Anyway i have been interested in the flowmaster 40 series for a while now, and im wondering which size inlet/outlet I will need for the car. Thanks

 

Hey guys, I have a 2000 VQ30DE, car was running fine until Sunday, when it start it to sputter and stall while on drive, mechanic doesn't find the cause, ecu shows a transmission problem on first gear, but could this generate the stalling on the engine? it drives below 2000 rpm's, but if I step on the gas it dies and even shut off once while bringing it from the repair shop, please post any suggestions on what could cause this, air flow meter was replace and problem continue.

Thanks.
IonSharpshooter

 

on my car the alternator and ac compressor have a tensioner pulley, it has a long rod. post a picture, if I have the chance I'll take a picture of mine

 

Thanks ionsharpshooter, I do have the A/C & Alternator idler pulley tensioner installed on the timing cover - no photo needed. I'll try to post a photo of my "leftover adjuster" part - not sure I am allowed to as a newb. Mack

 

I didn't think of that. I'm checking with Hawk now to see if they can replace them under warranty.

 

Hey replacing the VIAS solenoid control valve was the first thing I've ever done on my car and it's really simple. I take it you're getting P1800? It's practically a 5 minute job, if even that.

The control valve is the thing labeled 14956W towards the left side of the following image:




Removal:
1) Remove engine cover (need an allen wrench)
2) Disconnect electrical connector from valve
3) Remove two vacuum hoses from the valve (remember which hose went into which valve). In case you forget, the left hole goes to the VIAS solenoid (top-rear-left of engine) and the right hole goes to the vacuum tank (cylindrical thing to the right of the valve in front of engine)
4) Remove the (10mm?) bolt

5) Reverse steps for installation

 

Well i just bought a 02 GLE for my wife, great condition... just has a couple typical problems.

It has the typical problem with the stock bose cd changer, cds skip like mad.... some play fine but others wont read or just skip. The stereo works fine otherwise (none of the fading left speaker or anything), just the cd player has issues. Do i need to worry about other issues coming up with it? I was planning to just add an ipod connector and use that instead of the cd changer.

Secondly, the drivers side heated seat doesnt work..... any thing i should look at first to fix it? Passengers side works fine, drivers side doesnt heat up nor does the light for the switch turn on when its in the on position. Ideas?

Thanks!

 

Typical problem with the bose system, and at about 350.00 to fix just not worth it ... go with an aftermarket HU should you wish to listen to DVD/CD, the ipod will work in the mean time ... as for the driver side heated seat, check all the fuses to make sure one is not blown.

 

Yeah ill probably skip fixing it for the time being, radio and ipod should work. I assume this is just the cd player, and wont affect the radio down the road?

Now to find a ipod connector that will work on a 5.5gen with indash 6disk bose. May have to just do an AUX.

Thanks for the quick reply! you rock. Will have to check the fuses on the seat, lmk if anyone else has any ideas.

 

Not sure what I doing on this site yet, but I have a 00 Max SE and I am trying to get it at least somewhat track worthy. I have done small stuff, but I want to really order some parts that can make it need performance brakes! I have OBX headers in the garage, but I want to wait till I get in the megan cat back and stillen pulley with belts to install it all. HERE IS THE ??? I went to the junkyard and pulled an infinity Q45 tb and spacer. I machined the spacer to fit the stock throttle on my car. It bolts up I manufactured a gasket no vacum leaks, heres the thing. IT WONT RUN right like it sputters intake backfires just does not work is there something ECU wise or MAF wise I need to update to use this new 3/4 inch spacer I have?????

 

I wish I could help you out more, but I would check with chiltons manual and see if they have one listed or not.

 

I hope this thread doesnt go away. I have a 2000 maxima SE, I heard from a guy at a shop that the throttle body from a Q45 fits my car... so im off to the junkyard and pull one assembly and all and a spacer lookin thing. I couldnt really use the throttle I THINK... but I had a machinist drill holes in the 3/4'sIN spacer and made a gasket... the PROBLEM is it fits and it seals but the car wont run right with it installed... I dont get it.. is there something ECU or MAF sensor wiring that I need to fix or upgrade for the extra room????

 

What do you mean by "the car won't run right"? Without describing what the car is specifically doing it is hard to impossible to say what the problem is.

 

Hi,
I have a 2000 Maxima GLE, 133k miles, automatic.
Recently when i've been driving sometimes i get this loss of acceleration. It feels if the car isn't changing gears.
When i try to accelerate the RPM meter goes to 5k-6k and the car's MPH barely increases. This has happened 3-4 times now, especially when i try to accelerate to go to 30-40mph on the highway. Most of the time it doesn't occur at all.
Any idea what might be the issue?
Thanks in advance.

 

I have a photo of my "leftover tensioner", but as a newb I can't post it, so I'll try again in fewer words.

Does a 2000 VQ30 engine have an adjuster or belt tensioner for the alternator, other than the idler pulley assembly that is bolted to the front of the timing cover? Thanks in advance, Mack

 

2001 Maxima

Think I found it...Is the radiator drain plug near the end at the passenger side?

What is the tranny fluid capacity?

Curious...how many various sensors does this car have?

 

== 002 Maxima SE (Auto Tranny) ==

Can anyone post a picture showing or explain where the tranny cooler return hose is? I plan to do an ATF flush this weekend.

Thanks