ninja1monkey

I tried looking, but I couldn't find it, would you mind sending me the link? :S

ninja1monkey

Anybody in GTA (Mississauga) area that would be able to help me out? I don't know how to solder and work with circuit boards. I know for you guys, its like the easiest task.

J57ltr

So I guess you found it. Things are a little hard to find on this site, believe me I know I have been looking for the correct fix for my problem and have spent more than 40 hours looking.

Soldering isn't really that hard, look on You Tube for a how to on soldering. It's not real hard and for less than $20 you can buy a cheap soldering iron and solder. All you have to do is wait for the iron to heat up and apply solder to the iron tip. Then apply the tip to the joint and allow it to melt it should only take about 2 seconds to melt, any longer than that and you risk removing the trace from the board. Apply solder at the same time and you are done.

The only thing you might have trouble with is if the the board uses a ROHS (read no lead) type solder. That is a little harder to solder when you are not used to it. Then again maybe thats why the solder joint broke in the first place.

There were a lot of problems with it when people started to switch over to the ROHS compliant solder. It looks dull even when done correctly and is harder to inspect unless you have been dealing with it for a while.

Jeff

ninja1monkey

Lol, is it sad that I pretty much didn't understand what you just told me?
Do you know anyone in Toronto/ Mississauga area that would be able to do it quick?

J57ltr

Well I live in Houston and haven't been to Mississauga in quite a number of years. I am supposed to go to Toronto for a service call but it's on hold until I get a current project out of the way, which is going to be a few more months. So if you don't get it done by then I could probably swing by while I am there, beats sitting in a hotel.

Jeff

max_the_knife

No I have stock alarm but that is a solid point about the Clutch Switch & Relay. I may need to replace the switch. Thanks

J57ltr

Jump out the switch for a while if you are comfortable with that. Or jump it at the time that you have the problem. Since its intermitant I would suspect relay or a switch in the system. I do not have the wiring diagrams for this car, but I have worked on all types of cars. If you have a link for me I will take a look at the diagram and let you know what all to check if you like. I would look it up myself, but I am a little busy with my issue.

I am betting that the full current for the starter solenoid goes through the clutch switch, but without the diagram I am guessing.

Jeff

ninja1monkey

Lol, it's prolly not gonna be done till a few months, and I'll be moving to Vaughan by then, so yea, hopefully you can do it.
Thanks a lot.

ninja1monkey

I drove my car again today and it feels so different without bass, anyone in mississauga or Toronto area that can help me out, I don't think I can wait a few months

Ghost_capo

Hello, I was just wondering if you guy would tell me what the wire part of the fog light is called and where can i get it from
I got a fog light assembly from someone but its missing that part and i cant find it any where

VQP0WER

It's called a Fog Light harness assembly:

$26 from CourtesyParts.com

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

http://forums.maxima.org/forumdispla...aysprune=&f=18

Worth a try ..

J57ltr

He's in Canada, so this one might work a little better.

http://forums.maxima.org/canada-28/

White05

We have a 2005, I'm not seeing a similar thread for 6th gen so I will post in here...brakes may be similar anyway.

I'm in sort of a tough spot since the car is un-usable and will be needed soon, this needs to be resolved this weekend if at all possible.

Thanks in advance for your help!

After a 15 minute drive, our car had a really bad hot smell to it. I found one of the rotors was super hot. So hot that you could barely touch the wheel due to the conduction.

Took it apart this morning (part way), nothing looks too discolored so far. I suspected a hung up pin but the pins are great. The pads have some life left on them. The pads are very difficult to move in the carrier (not sure what it's called). I'm used to being able to push on the caliper with my hand or worst case pry a bit with a screwdriver and easilly move them, compressing the piston in the caliper but these are tougher to move than that. After taking the bracket that holds the pads off, it's clear that at least most of this resistance is not from the caliper, it's from the tabs of the pads where they interface with the spring clips. Is it normal to have this much friction here? I can take this apart and clean but then won't know if I have fixed the problem.

Next I noticed a rough/grinding noise from inside the rotor when I turn it (caliper and pads removed). It isn't too hard to turn but something is rubbing. Is this normal? I took out a small rubber plug on the rotor and see two screws accessable but am afraid to turn them, not knowing how that works. I sprayed PB blaster around the center hub and the studs, and made a limited effort to remove the rotor but obviously that isn't coming off easy (I have had poor luck in the past getting rotors off due to rust).

So it appears my problem is either:
1. Bad caliper...popular problem but symptoms aren't really pointing to that
2. pads sticking in the spring clips/carrier (or is the behavior I described normal?)
3. e-brake mechanism has a problem (how do I access this and what is the most common specific problem with this mechanism?)

Thanks in advance for your help, guys.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

I'm guessing these are your rear brakes. Pretty sure the cable may be caught up somewhere, and it is more pronounced when turning, etc. I would check/follow the cable from the rear rotors to the source (ebrake lever in the cabin) and see if you can find anything.

Are you referring to the bleeding nipple on the rotor, or are you talking about the small screws used to remove/break the rotor loose?

There are small screws used to remove the rotor, I use a little effort with a sledge(probably not good for the bearings, but oh well).

White05

I typed all that and didn't say which brake was bad lol. It's the drivers side rear. The two screws am am referring to can be viewed through the hole in the rotor. This hole has a rubber plug and is located between two of the studs. The screws are fairly small flat head. I suspect they have something to do with "backing off" the shoes to remove the rotor, but am hesitant to mess with them hence I get into a "point of no return" situation. I have had limited luck removing calipers in the past, this time I"m trying PB blaster. It's almost like you need a big gear puller, unless i'm missing something.

Also...regarding the parking brake cables...the parking brakes have been pulled a few times and they worked, but have not been messed with for months so it shouldn't be the dreaded "corroded/stuck cable" syndrome.

pomps

AC QUESTION -

so im stuck and hope someone can help.....

replaced the compressor and drier (and belt). did the vacuum and charge it up with some pag and freon. blew cold for about 20 mins and now its blowing hot air.

theres pressure in the lines (its holding freon) and there doesnt appear to be any leaks that i can see

any ideas?

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

No you didn't, but you were extremely detailed re: the rest of your post, and that's awesome.

Search the 4th gen forum for 'rotor' and they can tell you what size and what tool you need to remove the rotors.

VQP0WER

Maybe your mode door in your duct system is not closing, allow hot air from the heater core to enter your system. Have you put a manifold pressure check gauge on to see if you have proper pressures?

pomps

i shouldnt of used ''hot'' air.... its just normal air blowing. was cold for about 20 mins then is just regular air blowing.

the 20 mins or so that it blew cold was while the car was sitting. when i went for a drive it no longer was cold.

ill have to check later tonight for pressure readings with the gauges - what is the ideal pressure (or link to manual).

thanks

max_the_knife

Yo Jeff, can't seem to find a wiring diagram for a 2000 Maxima online. However I had the problem yesterday and I got down and pressed in the clutch switch button in a couple times and then tried to start it again and it started immediately. So the problem is definitely the clutch switch. Already priced it @ $30.00 @ the dealership..Thanks Bro!!

White05

Thanks for your help.

Just in case anyone's curious how I came out on this,
In review I had a very hot rear brake. After closer inspection of the bracket that holds the pads, I noticed they were really stuck in there. I had to put it in the vice and tap pretty hard to get them out. One of the pads appears to have gotten hoter, it looks different and the glue that holds the tin plate is charred. It appears the tabs on the pads were a tight fit in the spring clips to begin with, then factor in some rust and you have a stuck pad. I cleaned the tabs up with a file on both pads, put everything back together and did a test drive, not getting hot anymore. It still bothers me a bit how the rotor sounds with the pads removed...doesn't drag much but the slight friction from the PB is rougher than I would have imagined. We'll keep an eye on it but hopefully I have it solved.

SEMaxima2000

Does the bose cd players in the 01 maximas have rca jacks?

MoeBelikeMax

iTrader: (1)

Power steering fluid leaking for Upper Pressure hose ....is there any write ups / how to on how to change the hose

MoeBelikeMax

iTrader: (1)

whats is a POWER STEERING RACK ???

02 blue maxima

Hello i have a 2002 maxima with a 3.5 . It has 110 miles and runs well. I was on the highway the other day go about 70 miles an hour and the car just cut out the car was still running but the gas pedel was not working the rpms droped down to 900 . I pressed the gas up and down for like 15 seconds and the rpms went back up and the car was fine. it did it like 3 more times that day. I got no check engine light so i have no idea why that happened. I drive the car to and from work since then and its fine. But i would like to know if anyone could please give me ideas WHY.

01-maxima-24

iTrader: (1)

The problem is the relay in the subwoofer's amp, it needs to be soldered or replaced. Google stereo repair shops in your area and give them a call, its a pretty common problem with our maxima's so they should be familiar with it.

I sent mine here since they specialize in Bose.

I thought there was a way to bypass the problem on the 2000 Maximas . I have a 2001 which is a little different so thats why I sent mine in for repair.

Edit: found the thread but cant link it for some reason ???. Search: bose woofer cut off fix for 2000 maxima.

Read through it, the solution is there with lots of pics. Do the bypass if you're not confident in soldering.

VQP0WER

The thing that turns your wheels. Connected to the tie rod ends.

blue-max

hey guys dont no if this had already been asked but i can't find it if it is... here i go i have a 2003 nissan maxima se that starts and dies 3 seconds after start up.. it revs to about 1500 rpm them cuts off as if the gas leaves the engine.. n e help with this?

maurice240sx

whats up? i just got a 02 max 3.5 6spd. love the car but it burns oil like crazy just wanted to know does or anybody has this problem or now a fix?

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

no

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

common problem caused by bad rings

see my experience: http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ealership.html

zhuleek

iTrader: (1)

Any one knows where I can download the factory service manual for a33? I have one but its missing the file with exhaust system (the FE)

zhuleek

iTrader: (1)

PS, www.phatg20.net doesnt work anymore

VQP0WER

That's where I got mine from, and that site hasn't worked for some time now. If I remember, I will upload my files to a sharing site and PM you with the link.

zhuleek

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, awesome. I personally only need the FE Part (accelerator control, fuel and exhaust), but someone else might need the whole thing so I guess it would be a good idea to put the full fsm out. Though I dont see too many people interested in that manual. It should be the first thing you get with your maxima... I think. Ok, anyway thanx

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/

CL3ANmax01

Can someone tell me the best clutch kit and flywheel i can put in my 2001 maximma SE.. and where may i find the clutch kit and flywheel for a decent price.. If anyone can help me plz repl

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

"best" is subjective

here is some info to help you make your decision

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...el-clutch.html

mchlkwn

I brought my 2002 Maxima GLE to the shop because it has rattle or pining noise. He told me it is my lifter. Any idea what this is and how to get rid of the noise? I think the noise has been there for a while (more than a month). Is this bad? I could not hear the noise unless I open the window or standing outside. I hope it is not too late.