5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
07-02-2010, 06:51 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
Posts: 23
So far not an issue, just a concern before heading out on a road trip. One rear wheel sounds like a shopping cart that was left out in the rain. At first it squeaked in sync with rotations regardless of brakes on or off. My garage found the caliper was dragging and replaced it last week. The rotors and pads were new in February. I don't feel pulsing on my foot when applying light or stronger brake pedal. With the new caliper, it now squeaks on dry days only when brake pedal is off. With light brake pedal pressure, it is quiet. Is there any chance this is a bearings issue which is quietened by the brake pressure, or is the rotor slightly warped? In addition to the maintenance concerns, I hate driving a 4 door shopping cart.
07-02-2010, 07:08 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Warren Countym NJ
Posts: 25
TIRE FIT, PLEASE HELP.
I searched all over this site, couldn't find this answer
I want to put 225/55-17 on my 03 Maxima SE. Stock rims. Will it Rub? How much will it offset speedo?
This is a family car now, so I don't need performance. I just need an affordale long lasting tire. And I need new tires BAD. We are driving NJ to VA in a week and need to get tires ASAP. I do not like the options for 225/50
Looking at BF Goodrich Traction T/A T from t.rack. ($98)
BTW: THe OEM's have a overall dia. of 25.9"
These BFG's have an overall dia. of 26.8" (THis is my main concern.)
My other options are:
215/50 General Altimax HP ($112)
Otherwise, can anyone suggest a good size? Don't want a reall low profile tire.
THANKS
I need to order these today!
I searched all over this site, couldn't find this answer
I want to put 225/55-17 on my 03 Maxima SE. Stock rims. Will it Rub? How much will it offset speedo?
This is a family car now, so I don't need performance. I just need an affordale long lasting tire. And I need new tires BAD. We are driving NJ to VA in a week and need to get tires ASAP. I do not like the options for 225/50
Looking at BF Goodrich Traction T/A T from t.rack. ($98)
BTW: THe OEM's have a overall dia. of 25.9"
These BFG's have an overall dia. of 26.8" (THis is my main concern.)
My other options are:
215/50 General Altimax HP ($112)
Otherwise, can anyone suggest a good size? Don't want a reall low profile tire.
THANKS
I need to order these today!
07-02-2010, 07:17 AM
So far not an issue, just a concern before heading out on a road trip. One rear wheel sounds like a shopping cart that was left out in the rain. At first it squeaked in sync with rotations regardless of brakes on or off. My garage found the caliper was dragging and replaced it last week. The rotors and pads were new in February. I don't feel pulsing on my foot when applying light or stronger brake pedal. With the new caliper, it now squeaks on dry days only when brake pedal is off. With light brake pedal pressure, it is quiet. Is there any chance this is a bearings issue which is quietened by the brake pressure, or is the rotor slightly warped? In addition to the maintenance concerns, I hate driving a 4 door shopping cart.
You can check the bearings by jacking up the wheel in question, and with the car supported (as in, not just by the jack) seeing if the wheel wiggles on the spindle.
07-02-2010, 08:38 AM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 3
Going to be having a family friend install a new MAF sensor tomorrow. He's a good mechanic... works on Caterpillars though. So I'm wondering is there any kind of ECU reset or something else that may not be obvious that he's going to have to do but might not be aware of? I just want this to go as smooth as possible.
Hopefully this will cure the weird throttle response/transmission slippage and 'slow responding O2 sensor' code thats been coming up.
Thanks in advance!
Hopefully this will cure the weird throttle response/transmission slippage and 'slow responding O2 sensor' code thats been coming up.
Thanks in advance!
07-02-2010, 08:42 AM
07-02-2010, 09:49 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: MA
Posts: 17
OK here it goes... i bought a 03 nissan maxima 3.5L SE with a six speed in it. A month after i bought it the engine lost compression in cylinder one. So i had the engine replaced the engine that they sent me from LKQ was from a 02 altima. the first code i got was P0335 and it ran like crap rough at idle and rough till 2500rpms then it seems to smooth out. now i have three new codes P0300 P0021 P0011. i have replaced the crankshaft position sensor three times with aftermarket units then just now with a nissan unit....that was 101.76 total 
when the engine was being put in it got a tune up with new plugs and coils(aftermarket) and oil change. now i have no idea what to do. by my understanding low oil could cause this problem too i have not checked it since the change though i will in a moment. any help would be great since at this point this car has been nothing but a nightmare.
when the engine was being put in it got a tune up with new plugs and coils(aftermarket) and oil change. now i have no idea what to do. by my understanding low oil could cause this problem too i have not checked it since the change though i will in a moment. any help would be great since at this point this car has been nothing but a nightmare. anyone? i just want the ses light to GO AWAY.
07-02-2010, 10:12 AM
You have checked to make sure the connectors and wires to the sensors are in good condition last time you changed it, right?
07-02-2010, 10:15 AM
When you install new sensors and whatnot, a good mechanic will disconnect the battery for > 10 minutes the swap takes. That will reset the ECU.
There is an idle re-learn procedure listed in the FSM as well, although IIRC a MAF swap should not need that.
There is an idle re-learn procedure listed in the FSM as well, although IIRC a MAF swap should not need that.
07-03-2010, 07:04 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 22
When I swapped out my MAF on my 00 Max, it came with a yellow card that said that the ECU needed to be reprogrammed. They also wouldn't sell me the MAF without buying a Nissan Air Filter.
After installing it myself, the car stayed running at stoplights, which was awesome, but I drove the car without the ECU reprogram for about 3 weeks until I could afford the 1 hour of labor it cost to reprogram the bugger.
Honestly, I couldn't tell if the reprogram did anything, or if I just wasted my $.
After installing it myself, the car stayed running at stoplights, which was awesome, but I drove the car without the ECU reprogram for about 3 weeks until I could afford the 1 hour of labor it cost to reprogram the bugger.
Honestly, I couldn't tell if the reprogram did anything, or if I just wasted my $.
07-04-2010, 04:40 AM
Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: PA
Posts: 85
Have owned a 2001 GLE for a week - and the engine starts missing - and shows the p1320 and p0301 codes.
Do I replace the #1 cylinder coil, or all 6?
Also, after it cooled off overnight, I cleared the codes and so far its running fine. The previous owner had a similar occurance about a year (and 10000 miles) ago and it went away.
I am thinking that with 135000 miles it might make sense to replace all 6 coils.
Some here seem to prefer Nissan coils, some have gone with parts from Auto Zone. Thoughts?
Do I replace the #1 cylinder coil, or all 6?
Also, after it cooled off overnight, I cleared the codes and so far its running fine. The previous owner had a similar occurance about a year (and 10000 miles) ago and it went away.
I am thinking that with 135000 miles it might make sense to replace all 6 coils.
Some here seem to prefer Nissan coils, some have gone with parts from Auto Zone. Thoughts?
07-04-2010, 05:00 AM
Have owned a 2001 GLE for a week - and the engine starts missing - and shows the p1320 and p0301 codes.
Do I replace the #1 cylinder coil, or all 6?
Also, after it cooled off overnight, I cleared the codes and so far its running fine. The previous owner had a similar occurance about a year (and 10000 miles) ago and it went away.
I am thinking that with 135000 miles it might make sense to replace all 6 coils.
Some here seem to prefer Nissan coils, some have gone with parts from Auto Zone. Thoughts?
Do I replace the #1 cylinder coil, or all 6?
Also, after it cooled off overnight, I cleared the codes and so far its running fine. The previous owner had a similar occurance about a year (and 10000 miles) ago and it went away.
I am thinking that with 135000 miles it might make sense to replace all 6 coils.
Some here seem to prefer Nissan coils, some have gone with parts from Auto Zone. Thoughts?
Here is something else that may be helpful to anybody with the CEL on:
http://www.fixya.com/cars/r3654379-n...a_ground_fault
07-04-2010, 05:11 AM
Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: PA
Posts: 85
If the coils have never been replaced then I would go ahead and replace them all with new Nissan coils.
Here is something else that may be helpful to anybody with the CEL on:
http://www.fixya.com/cars/r3654379-n...a_ground_fault
Here is something else that may be helpful to anybody with the CEL on:
http://www.fixya.com/cars/r3654379-n...a_ground_fault
I am wondering why you favor Nissan coils vs. say AutoZone parts? The Nissans are pricey - so I am wondering if they are worth it. Since the OEM parts have a high failure rate - I wonder if another supplier might actually have better parts.
07-04-2010, 05:32 AM
Thanks for posting the link about the grounding "repair" I am thinking to try that first, or in addition to replacing the coils. It seems that a very intermittent missfire and SES code could very well be caused by a weak ground connection.
I am wondering why you favor Nissan coils vs. say AutoZone parts? The Nissans are pricey - so I am wondering if they are worth it. Since the OEM parts have a high failure rate - I wonder if another supplier might actually have better parts.
I am wondering why you favor Nissan coils vs. say AutoZone parts? The Nissans are pricey - so I am wondering if they are worth it. Since the OEM parts have a high failure rate - I wonder if another supplier might actually have better parts.
07-04-2010, 05:47 AM
Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: PA
Posts: 85
When replacing key components such as coil packs, I would rather just be safe and replace them with OEM Nissan parts. I have never tried any other coil packs so saying OEM is better is only my opinion. Im OK with the price only because my brother is a Nissan mechanic so I get everything at employee pricing.
I have searched many threads - but I haven't found any information about replacing the gasket on the idle air controller vs. replacing the part itself as a preventitive measure.
Do you know if its possible to just replace the gasket - since the part is working fine - in order to prevent coolant leaking into the electronics and frying the ECU?
07-04-2010, 07:55 AM
Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: PA
Posts: 85
When I put the car in the garage and shut it off I frequently hear a strange noise from under the car. It sounds like a buzzing or a fast vibration - not unlike a bee but louder. It lasts maybe 3 to 5 seconds, then stops. The sound comes back after 20 seconds or so - it repeats this cycle a few times.
I can't tell where (front or back - or side to side) it's coming from.
Might this be the motor mount(s)?
It sort of doesn't make sense if it's the mounts, as the noise happens after the car is shut off and the key is out of the ignition. But I don't know Maximas that well yet . . .
might this be the mounts?
I can't tell where (front or back - or side to side) it's coming from.
Might this be the motor mount(s)?
It sort of doesn't make sense if it's the mounts, as the noise happens after the car is shut off and the key is out of the ignition. But I don't know Maximas that well yet . . .
might this be the mounts?
07-04-2010, 09:30 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: St Louis area
Posts: 2
2003 GLE VQ35 hot start engine noise
I have a 2003 GLE that I bought new, now has 90k miles and plan to keep for a while longer. Since around 40k, only in the summer, after car has been running and shut off for 15-20 min (but not cooled completely), when restarted there is a noise that sounds like an engine rattle. On cold starts, (or hot starts when the engine has been off for 5 min or less), it starts up as quiet as could be. During the warranty period I had dealer look at it, they were able to hear the noise, but said it was not a problem. They checked oil pressure and said it was good. This seems to me to be a crazy problem. I would expect cold start noise before hot start noise. It is not getting any worse, does not happen in the winter. When it does happen, the oil light flickers during the start, but agan, the light goes off immediately on a cold start. Any ideas?
07-04-2010, 06:00 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Brandon, FL
Posts: 897
I'd say only if you know for sure that they have low mileage of use, otherwise, it's a gamble; they could be in better or worse condition than yours, even if you don't see any evidence of damage.
07-05-2010, 08:03 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 39
I think ill jus go with new ones can you link me to the correct ones for my 2000 maxima? and would these spark plugs be okay on my car:
Spark Plugs
Spark Plugs
07-05-2010, 10:19 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 15
I'm having pinging problem during idling. Other than use 93 octane gas, I also add Luca fuel injector cleaner. However, I still have pinging problem. Is there anything else? What else should I do? Do I need to fill up few more tanks?
2002 Maxima GLE
2002 Maxima GLE
Last edited by mchlkwn; 07-05-2010 at 10:31 AM.
07-05-2010, 03:54 PM
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: MA
Posts: 17
Also i changed the front coils to the ones that came on the car when it was running crappy and bang purred like a kitten so my last hope before i go crazy i'm going to try changing the back three tomorrow(I guess the aftermarket coils suck).
lastly does anyone know if you can replace parts of the fuel pump? my gas guage is broken(works just dosnt show the correct amount of fuel...thus making me very nervous.
i think this car is a total lemon
07-05-2010, 03:57 PM
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: MA
Posts: 17
I have a 2003 GLE that I bought new, now has 90k miles and plan to keep for a while longer. Since around 40k, only in the summer, after car has been running and shut off for 15-20 min (but not cooled completely), when restarted there is a noise that sounds like an engine rattle. On cold starts, (or hot starts when the engine has been off for 5 min or less), it starts up as quiet as could be. During the warranty period I had dealer look at it, they were able to hear the noise, but said it was not a problem. They checked oil pressure and said it was good. This seems to me to be a crazy problem. I would expect cold start noise before hot start noise. It is not getting any worse, does not happen in the winter. When it does happen, the oil light flickers during the start, but agan, the light goes off immediately on a cold start. Any ideas?
07-05-2010, 05:09 PM
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: West Haven, CT
Posts: 13
When I put the car in the garage and shut it off I frequently hear a strange noise from under the car. It sounds like a buzzing or a fast vibration - not unlike a bee but louder. It lasts maybe 3 to 5 seconds, then stops. The sound comes back after 20 seconds or so - it repeats this cycle a few times.
I can't tell where (front or back - or side to side) it's coming from.
Might this be the motor mount(s)?
It sort of doesn't make sense if it's the mounts, as the noise happens after the car is shut off and the key is out of the ignition. But I don't know Maximas that well yet . . .
might this be the mounts?
I can't tell where (front or back - or side to side) it's coming from.
Might this be the motor mount(s)?
It sort of doesn't make sense if it's the mounts, as the noise happens after the car is shut off and the key is out of the ignition. But I don't know Maximas that well yet . . .
might this be the mounts?
I had a similar issue, it was a faulty fuel pump. the noise would come from under the rear seat. My only question is, my key was in the ignition when this was occuring tho..so i'm not positive. sorry i can't be of further assistance.
07-05-2010, 10:47 PM
When I put the car in the garage and shut it off I frequently hear a strange noise from under the car. It sounds like a buzzing or a fast vibration - not unlike a bee but louder. It lasts maybe 3 to 5 seconds, then stops. The sound comes back after 20 seconds or so - it repeats this cycle a few times.
I can't tell where (front or back - or side to side) it's coming from.
Might this be the motor mount(s)?
It sort of doesn't make sense if it's the mounts, as the noise happens after the car is shut off and the key is out of the ignition. But I don't know Maximas that well yet . . .
might this be the mounts?
I can't tell where (front or back - or side to side) it's coming from.
Might this be the motor mount(s)?
It sort of doesn't make sense if it's the mounts, as the noise happens after the car is shut off and the key is out of the ignition. But I don't know Maximas that well yet . . .
might this be the mounts?
07-06-2010, 11:52 AM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Rockland County NY
Posts: 1
Hi All...newbie to this forum...have some DIY questions...
2001 Max, 130K, Mnl Trans
- Is there a DIY for replacing the right rear ABS sensor?
- Is there a DIY for replacing the MAF sensor?
- Is there a DIY for replacing the o2 sensor?
According to my garage guy, those are the codes, and both Service Engine Soon and ABS lights are on.
Can anyone point me?
Thanks!!
- Kastle
2001 Max, 130K, Mnl Trans
- Is there a DIY for replacing the right rear ABS sensor?
- Is there a DIY for replacing the MAF sensor?
- Is there a DIY for replacing the o2 sensor?
According to my garage guy, those are the codes, and both Service Engine Soon and ABS lights are on.
Can anyone point me?
Thanks!!
- Kastle
07-06-2010, 12:11 PM
When I put the car in the garage and shut it off I frequently hear a strange noise from under the car. It sounds like a buzzing or a fast vibration - not unlike a bee but louder. It lasts maybe 3 to 5 seconds, then stops. The sound comes back after 20 seconds or so - it repeats this cycle a few times.
I can't tell where (front or back - or side to side) it's coming from.
Might this be the motor mount(s)?
It sort of doesn't make sense if it's the mounts, as the noise happens after the car is shut off and the key is out of the ignition. But I don't know Maximas that well yet . . .
might this be the mounts?
I can't tell where (front or back - or side to side) it's coming from.
Might this be the motor mount(s)?
It sort of doesn't make sense if it's the mounts, as the noise happens after the car is shut off and the key is out of the ignition. But I don't know Maximas that well yet . . .
might this be the mounts?
07-06-2010, 04:48 PM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: New York City
Posts: 1
VERY DESPERATE!! A/C issue. I have a 2000 Maxima that has a very strange problem. When the A/C is on for sometime, the RPMs spike to 5k even in park. Braking feels unusual as well (I'm guessing due to the fact the RPMs are so high). I checked the Idle valves and cleaned it as well. It is very hard to replicate the problem to a mechanic, but it has been happening on very hot days, with the A/C on for more than 15-20 minutes. I have to shut the car off in order to make it "normal" again/Driving with AC off- completely normal. Any ideas?
07-06-2010, 05:01 PM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 3
Fuel Pump on when Engine is Off
Checked the forum for this problem (searched under "bad gas cap", etc.).
When I pulled the car into the garage and shut it off, it sounds like the fuel pump is still running (no key in ignition). I popped open the fuel door, released the gas cap (big whoosh), and the pump immediately stops...
Only seems to happen when the car is down to about 1/4 tank or less. There is no CEL, either...
Bad gas cap or something else?
Thanks--car is approaching 90k miles, and I'm worried it might be something worse.
Vince
When I pulled the car into the garage and shut it off, it sounds like the fuel pump is still running (no key in ignition). I popped open the fuel door, released the gas cap (big whoosh), and the pump immediately stops...
Only seems to happen when the car is down to about 1/4 tank or less. There is no CEL, either...
Bad gas cap or something else?
Thanks--car is approaching 90k miles, and I'm worried it might be something worse.
Vince
07-06-2010, 06:34 PM
Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Tomball
Posts: 30
Lean bank #1, no real answer?
Hello,
I have searched this problem and have read many threads and am unable to find a lot of critical information. The first and formost is that every body seems to say it's the MAF, but I checked in on these threads again and the problem always happens again within 6 months.
A little history:
We bought the car (01' Maxima GXE 88K miles) a little over 2 years ago. On the test drive the check engine light was on. After bringing the car back and said that if they fixed the problem that was making the CEL come on I would buy the car. They sent the car into the shop and we started the sales process. We paid cash for the car and I made sure to get in writing that the problem causing the CEL would have to be fixed. Well I fully expected to come back and get the car in a few days, they reset the code and sent the car out. I told the salesman that there is no way in hell that they fixed the car and that I demanded to know what was replaced, and if the code was reset then it would come on again. Anyway to make a long story a little shorter. within 6 miles it was back on and got a brush off by the sales man. I said forget it I'll fix it myself.
The engine gives all the stmptoms of a lean engine. sluggish after start, sometimes has trouble idling (when in the 40's), rattles like a coffee can full of pennys at part throttle even on 93 octane (sometimes).
Last year to get it inspected I searched this fourm for days and came up with a bad MAF and trying to clean it. Well I cleaned it with MAF cleaner and was able to get it to go off for about 200 miles. 50 miles to get it everything on line and running (and to pass inspection).
This year I tried it again and no go as soon as I reset it, cleaned the maf. The code came on within a few seconds.
I have read that I may be able to get a cheap MAF from a guy by the name of David B. I know that driving the car as is can damage it. I am not new to working on cars in the least.
What I do not like doing is replacing parts, I want to KNOW beyond a shadow of a doubt that the part is the problem. I am not a parts changer.
What I would like to know is what is the output of the MAF is it a 0-5V signal, a PWM signal or what. I was not able to find anything in any of the posts I searched on.
How is the MAF tested? Wire color/ function would be awsome. I have everything from O-scopes to meters to all the handtools needed for just about any purpose. I would just like someones expert opinion on this.
Thanks
Jeff
I have searched this problem and have read many threads and am unable to find a lot of critical information. The first and formost is that every body seems to say it's the MAF, but I checked in on these threads again and the problem always happens again within 6 months.
A little history:
We bought the car (01' Maxima GXE 88K miles) a little over 2 years ago. On the test drive the check engine light was on. After bringing the car back and said that if they fixed the problem that was making the CEL come on I would buy the car. They sent the car into the shop and we started the sales process. We paid cash for the car and I made sure to get in writing that the problem causing the CEL would have to be fixed. Well I fully expected to come back and get the car in a few days, they reset the code and sent the car out. I told the salesman that there is no way in hell that they fixed the car and that I demanded to know what was replaced, and if the code was reset then it would come on again. Anyway to make a long story a little shorter. within 6 miles it was back on and got a brush off by the sales man. I said forget it I'll fix it myself.
The engine gives all the stmptoms of a lean engine. sluggish after start, sometimes has trouble idling (when in the 40's), rattles like a coffee can full of pennys at part throttle even on 93 octane (sometimes).
Last year to get it inspected I searched this fourm for days and came up with a bad MAF and trying to clean it. Well I cleaned it with MAF cleaner and was able to get it to go off for about 200 miles. 50 miles to get it everything on line and running (and to pass inspection).
This year I tried it again and no go as soon as I reset it, cleaned the maf. The code came on within a few seconds.
I have read that I may be able to get a cheap MAF from a guy by the name of David B. I know that driving the car as is can damage it. I am not new to working on cars in the least.
What I do not like doing is replacing parts, I want to KNOW beyond a shadow of a doubt that the part is the problem. I am not a parts changer.
What I would like to know is what is the output of the MAF is it a 0-5V signal, a PWM signal or what. I was not able to find anything in any of the posts I searched on.
How is the MAF tested? Wire color/ function would be awsome. I have everything from O-scopes to meters to all the handtools needed for just about any purpose. I would just like someones expert opinion on this.
Thanks
Jeff
07-06-2010, 07:46 PM
Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Tomball
Posts: 30
VERY DESPERATE!! A/C issue. I have a 2000 Maxima that has a very strange problem. When the A/C is on for sometime, the RPMs spike to 5k even in park. Braking feels unusual as well (I'm guessing due to the fact the RPMs are so high). I checked the Idle valves and cleaned it as well. It is very hard to replicate the problem to a mechanic, but it has been happening on very hot days, with the A/C on for more than 15-20 minutes. I have to shut the car off in order to make it "normal" again/Driving with AC off- completely normal. Any ideas?
So does it do it in gear? or only in Neutral and park. I would think that if it was in gear and it went to 5k that you wouldn't be able to hold it easily. From your description I can only assume that the AC comes on and you feel the car pull and when you shift to park or neutral that the engine has no load on it and that causes it to go to 5k. From what I can tell it looks like a stepper motor that causes a cone to open or close a bypass between the front and rear of the throttle plate. Usually a stepper motor is driven by a series of pulses to a position. In this case it would move the cone in or out of the way to control idle speed based on load. Usually there is no feedback and it is assumed that when the computer causes it to move it does so. It sounds to me like it it having a hard time closing. I know you said you cleaned it, but it still may be bad. Could be stripped gears or debris stuck in it. Hope this helps.
Jeff
07-06-2010, 07:53 PM
Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: PA
Posts: 85
UPDATE - disconnected the motor mounts - noise gone.
Last edited by Intrepid1; 07-06-2010 at 08:01 PM.
07-07-2010, 02:20 AM
Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: PA
Posts: 85
I am thankful!
Now I am researching the best way from here. Leave them alone, relace with OEM style parts, or replace with solid non electric mounts?
The electrical connectors were slightly damaged getting them apart. They were sort of fused together. The first one chipped the housing a little - the second one eventually game apart after using WD40 and letting it soak for a while.
I think they can stll be used -just so they are taped up well after reconnecting - or can I get the part new still??
Now I am researching the best way from here. Leave them alone, relace with OEM style parts, or replace with solid non electric mounts?
The electrical connectors were slightly damaged getting them apart. They were sort of fused together. The first one chipped the housing a little - the second one eventually game apart after using WD40 and letting it soak for a while.
I think they can stll be used -just so they are taped up well after reconnecting - or can I get the part new still??
07-07-2010, 07:40 AM
Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: MA
Posts: 57
Hello,
I have searched this problem and have read many threads and am unable to find a lot of critical information. The first and formost is that every body seems to say it's the MAF, but I checked in on these threads again and the problem always happens again within 6 months.
A little history:
We bought the car (01' Maxima GXE 88K miles) a little over 2 years ago. On the test drive the check engine light was on. After bringing the car back and said that if they fixed the problem that was making the CEL come on I would buy the car. They sent the car into the shop and we started the sales process. We paid cash for the car and I made sure to get in writing that the problem causing the CEL would have to be fixed. Well I fully expected to come back and get the car in a few days, they reset the code and sent the car out. I told the salesman that there is no way in hell that they fixed the car and that I demanded to know what was replaced, and if the code was reset then it would come on again. Anyway to make a long story a little shorter. within 6 miles it was back on and got a brush off by the sales man. I said forget it I'll fix it myself.
The engine gives all the stmptoms of a lean engine. sluggish after start, sometimes has trouble idling (when in the 40's), rattles like a coffee can full of pennys at part throttle even on 93 octane (sometimes).
Last year to get it inspected I searched this fourm for days and came up with a bad MAF and trying to clean it. Well I cleaned it with MAF cleaner and was able to get it to go off for about 200 miles. 50 miles to get it everything on line and running (and to pass inspection).
This year I tried it again and no go as soon as I reset it, cleaned the maf. The code came on within a few seconds.
I have read that I may be able to get a cheap MAF from a guy by the name of David B. I know that driving the car as is can damage it. I am not new to working on cars in the least.
What I do not like doing is replacing parts, I want to KNOW beyond a shadow of a doubt that the part is the problem. I am not a parts changer.
What I would like to know is what is the output of the MAF is it a 0-5V signal, a PWM signal or what. I was not able to find anything in any of the posts I searched on.
How is the MAF tested? Wire color/ function would be awsome. I have everything from O-scopes to meters to all the handtools needed for just about any purpose. I would just like someones expert opinion on this.
Thanks
Jeff
I have searched this problem and have read many threads and am unable to find a lot of critical information. The first and formost is that every body seems to say it's the MAF, but I checked in on these threads again and the problem always happens again within 6 months.
A little history:
We bought the car (01' Maxima GXE 88K miles) a little over 2 years ago. On the test drive the check engine light was on. After bringing the car back and said that if they fixed the problem that was making the CEL come on I would buy the car. They sent the car into the shop and we started the sales process. We paid cash for the car and I made sure to get in writing that the problem causing the CEL would have to be fixed. Well I fully expected to come back and get the car in a few days, they reset the code and sent the car out. I told the salesman that there is no way in hell that they fixed the car and that I demanded to know what was replaced, and if the code was reset then it would come on again. Anyway to make a long story a little shorter. within 6 miles it was back on and got a brush off by the sales man. I said forget it I'll fix it myself.
The engine gives all the stmptoms of a lean engine. sluggish after start, sometimes has trouble idling (when in the 40's), rattles like a coffee can full of pennys at part throttle even on 93 octane (sometimes).
Last year to get it inspected I searched this fourm for days and came up with a bad MAF and trying to clean it. Well I cleaned it with MAF cleaner and was able to get it to go off for about 200 miles. 50 miles to get it everything on line and running (and to pass inspection).
This year I tried it again and no go as soon as I reset it, cleaned the maf. The code came on within a few seconds.
I have read that I may be able to get a cheap MAF from a guy by the name of David B. I know that driving the car as is can damage it. I am not new to working on cars in the least.
What I do not like doing is replacing parts, I want to KNOW beyond a shadow of a doubt that the part is the problem. I am not a parts changer.
What I would like to know is what is the output of the MAF is it a 0-5V signal, a PWM signal or what. I was not able to find anything in any of the posts I searched on.
How is the MAF tested? Wire color/ function would be awsome. I have everything from O-scopes to meters to all the handtools needed for just about any purpose. I would just like someones expert opinion on this.
Thanks
Jeff
07-07-2010, 07:46 AM
Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: MA
Posts: 57
VERY DESPERATE!! A/C issue. I have a 2000 Maxima that has a very strange problem. When the A/C is on for sometime, the RPMs spike to 5k even in park. Braking feels unusual as well (I'm guessing due to the fact the RPMs are so high). I checked the Idle valves and cleaned it as well. It is very hard to replicate the problem to a mechanic, but it has been happening on very hot days, with the A/C on for more than 15-20 minutes. I have to shut the car off in order to make it "normal" again/Driving with AC off- completely normal. Any ideas?
07-07-2010, 07:47 AM
There probably is, but I haven't found it. I imagine it is pretty straight forward once you remove the wheel. I need one to. Sensor itself is like 130$.
About 16,000 of them. But, very self explanatory once the hood is opened, and you've found the MAF. There are 2 Torx screws to remove, and a harness connector. 90$ or classifieds.
If you know which one, PBlaster and an O2 sensor socket .. and a bloody knuckle. Depending on which one, 60 - 140$, depending on where you get it.
About 16,000 of them. But, very self explanatory once the hood is opened, and you've found the MAF. There are 2 Torx screws to remove, and a harness connector. 90$ or classifieds.
If you know which one, PBlaster and an O2 sensor socket .. and a bloody knuckle. Depending on which one, 60 - 140$, depending on where you get it.
07-07-2010, 11:41 AM
I am thankful!
Now I am researching the best way from here. Leave them alone, relace with OEM style parts, or replace with solid non electric mounts?
The electrical connectors were slightly damaged getting them apart. They were sort of fused together. The first one chipped the housing a little - the second one eventually game apart after using WD40 and letting it soak for a while.
I think they can stll be used -just so they are taped up well after reconnecting - or can I get the part new still??
Now I am researching the best way from here. Leave them alone, relace with OEM style parts, or replace with solid non electric mounts?
The electrical connectors were slightly damaged getting them apart. They were sort of fused together. The first one chipped the housing a little - the second one eventually game apart after using WD40 and letting it soak for a while.
I think they can stll be used -just so they are taped up well after reconnecting - or can I get the part new still??
I think you're just better off replacing them with non-electric motor mounts, thats what im gonna do eventually.
Does the car feel any different with them disconnected?
07-07-2010, 02:08 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 1,767