Sounds like the belt may be too tight and rubbing. Or you have a bad alternator which has lost the bearings already.

 

Hi all,
I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima SE, manual transmission. I have a weird overheating problem. I was sitting in my car today and it was just idling, I wasn't driving and all of a sudden it started to over heat. I turned the A/C on and noticed that the temp came back to normal. So i did some research on the net (http://en.allexperts.com/q/Nissan-Re...verheating.htm) and found out that if the coolant fan comes on while the A/C is on then the relay is bad but if the primary fan does not come on then the primary fan is defective. So in my situation I think because the fan does not come on while the engine is idling is causing the overheating and when i turn the A/C on the fan does come on causing the engine to cool down. So according to the research it should be the relay thats bad, right? And if it is the relay then where is it located in my car? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

 

Yeah I think you're right. I can now hear the sound when I rev the engine. Its a short BRRR. I had someone stand near the car and listen to where its coming from and definitely the engine. Then when he gassed the engine while I had the hood up I narrowed it down to the alternator. Something is rattling around inside there.

 

Your statement is a bit confusing to me. Our cars have two cooling fans; the primary (driver side) and the AC fan (passenger side). Can you clarify which one(s) is(are) operating and under which conditions? I'm not sure in your statement which one is the "coolant" fan and which one is the "primary".
Normally, when the AC is on, the AC fan is working along with the primary fan (I've never seen te AC fan working while the other one is not, unless the primary fan is not working at all).

 

Wouldn't be the first time a bad alternator was installed....the shop likely used a rebuilt/re-manufactured alternator which can be iffy in terms of quality.

 

He is basically saying the main cooling fan "driver's side fan" does not come on unless he turns on the A/C in which both fans come on at that time.

Sounds like he self-diagnosed his issue and needs to find and replace the bad relay.

 

yup this is a rebuilt alternator. I brought it back this morning. the mechanic said something is loose, maybe a bracket. he won't be able to really know until he gets in there.....tomorrow!

Well atleast its not something worse.

Thanks for your help!

 

I looked for an answer for this but didn't find anything, so here goes:

My 2000 SE's low washer fluid indicator light has come on and will not go off. It ain't the fluid so I'm figuring it's the sensor. I believe I can see the sensor through a small hole behind the right front bumper at the bottom of the reservoir - it does not look easy to get at.

Can I fix this without too much of a hassle or should I just deal with it?

 

You should just be able to remove the inner wheel splash shields to get to it. If you don't want to get a new sensor, just disconnect that wire to the bottle.

 

Looking for a good garage for my 1996 Maxima in the DC metro area. I got burned by some shady mechanic and really want somebody that know Maxima's like the back of their hand to work on mines.

 

Sound like your rotates.

 

real quick question. '00SE, 178k
got P0138, P0139. Replaced the upstream O2 sensor (either #3 or #4 I forget) about 3 months ago. Engine light comes on for a while, goes off for a while (anything from 2 weeks to a month). I have the 3" Cattman cattback. Sometimes I have mildly rough idle - engine starts, RPMS dip down, go back up, then kinda shakes a little for a minute. Other times it idles smoothly. Every time I start the car the oil light turns on for a few seconds, just had an oil change 2000 miles ago (full synthetic). I constantly hear a slight tapping noise, but its very quiet. The tapping is FOR SURE not rod knock or crank or anything, I'm guessing its somewhere between the cams and the throttle body, from the sound. Little bit of a whine sound too. Acceleration is strong, drives perfectly!

Am I being paranoid? Or should I get my engine looked at? Just seemed like a bunch of minor things and I didn't know if I should ignore.

 

Possibly a bracket or bolt if he didn't tighten them to spec, but he'll only be able to tell once he gets in there like he said.

 

I have the computer climate control in my 2002 se. For some reason I can feel a dip in acceleration when i turn the heater on. Is this normal? It almost feels like it loses power for a split second like when turning on the a/c, but that would be ridiculous as I have the heater set to 90 degrees on these cold mornings. Does anyone else "feel" a dip in their powerband as they turn on their heater or is their something wrong with my climate controls?

 

If you have the setting on "defrost" mode, the a/c compressor will kick on. The compressor will pull the moisture out of the air. If the defrost is not on, then your battery/alternator might be getting weak.

 

Hey guys,

Looking to buy the following:

http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail...5&aff=national


What should I be looking out for? I've got a great mechanic to let me know if the 27k miles is legit. Anything else?

 

Ugh, what am I missing on this? Trying to drain and flush the cooling system, and I followed the directions per the owner's manual (2003 GLE):

I did as directed, and only the radiator drained, not the rest of the engine block. Am I missing something? Car sits patiently in the driveway, waiting for your expertise!

Unrelated: really Nissan? A nylon drain plug? Do you hate your customers that much? WTF?

 

You might want to refer to your car's FSM for a more detailed precedure, that includes removing two drain plugs on both sides of the cylinder block.

 

I would make sure that the power steering hose is not leaking as it is fairly common on the cars. Mine has just started show the signs of the seal going bad. Other than that I would take it out for a couple drives and see if anything feels out of the ordinary.

 

Wow, very low mileage. Definetly have the mechanic put the thing up on a lift and have a good inspection. Even with that low a mileage, it may mechanically show it's age. My mother in law has a '99 Dodge Ram van with only 12k miles on it, but it looks and runs as if it has 250k.

 

What's recommended for fuel injector cleaning?

Thanks in advance

 

Seafoam in the gas tank.

 

Does anyone have the procedure for doing it? I don't have an FSM, nor do I have access to one. I guess I thought that setting the heater to its highest was a way to open the thermostat.

 

I have a link to the FSM's in my signature.

 

I found my lil window sheet today and read what was installed. what are the front and rear stablilizer bars? is that teh same thing as the sway bar? jus checking. also horray! almost 15 posts!

 

Don't really wanna make a thread so I'll post here.

Four o2 codes, all secondary codes but what is boggling me is:

- I have P0137 AND P0140 (B1; low input, high input). How is this possible?

- I also have P0160 and P0161 (B2; high input, heater malf). This makes sense and seems like a defected secondary o2. OK, I can deal with that.

BTW, I have an o2 sim on there but IIRC, that only take cares of P0138/158,420/430.

Would replacing both secondaries make sense in this case?

 

You where spot on! The mechanic said it was a faulty rebuilt alternator. So they replaced it. Cross your fingers nothing funky goes on with this "new" one.

 

um i have a 2000 maxima or 5th gen and i was wondering if any one new of any good sites to order some stuff to dress up the motor if you can help id really be great full

 

I looked at the inner wheel splash shields and removing them doesn't look like an easy gig. Or maybe I should I say I think I could get them off, but I doubt they'll go back on. I don't mind getting a new sensor or disconnecting the wire - either would solve my issue. Having never removed splash shields before are there any tips to doing so? Thanks.

 

Wow, thanks guys!

 

Cake walk. There is typically 2-3 screws that you can see that visibly hold in in place, and there will most likely be a few cheap plastic pop fasteners. I typically take a flat head screwdriver and bust them out because they always break. You can get them at autozone for replacements.

 

I have tried looking for a topic related to this problem for a while now... my 02 maxima se has a 127,000 miles. My question is about engine ticking. I had been told many a times it was due to low oil but thats not the case since oil level has been fine. Brought my car to a nissan dealership today to try and get an answer on the ticking. The tech stated "Would have to pull some of the engine covers to further diagnose. Possibility of timing chains and timing guides. Possibility of worn internal engine components. Now the ticking began somewhere around 100,000 miles and gradually became louder. I originally bought the car with 84,000 miles and ticking was not present then. I have done all the routine maintenance oil changes and what not and from the paperwork from the previous owner shows all the maintenance was done as well. I was just wondering if Id be better off getting the chain and or guides replaced which was an estimate of 1500 to 1900 dealer quote...would never actually have the work done there...or getting a used or rebuilt engine instead? If it were just the guides would it be a lot less in cost?

 

For that price I would personally look for a low mileage motor in a local junkyard. Although that estimate is not incredibly terrible considering the amount of work it involves. Not sure where you are located, but if your close to ny you can have a low milage motor installed for that same price they quoted you. Check car-part.com for best pricing options. Goodluck.

 

Hey guys, new to the boards and have read around a little.

Anyone aware of a thread that has pictures of replacing this part? (camshaft position sensor - running code P0340)

I called the dealership which quoted me at $221.45 for the part & labor, however the part is only $79.80 there, and i've heard its a easy novice & quick replacement.

Background info - '02 SE 6MT with 91K miles. Once every several startups the car will lose power and jolt when trying to shift into gear (quite violently and un-driveable) it appears others refer to this as "hesitations", and even sometimes once in gear and up to speed. I can turn the car off for about 10-20 seconds and start back up with no problems. Its russian roulette as far as the issue goes, it either runs fine for the entire trip (short or long), or will drastically jolt or "hesitate" while losing power, etc.

I thought it was the MAF sensor because of the power shortage, but apparently not. I did go ahead and clean the MAF while I had it out. I only run 93 octane.

Any help, suggestions would be appreciated as I don't want to throw money at a part and install unless I'm pretty positive.


Thanks, B

 

I found my lil window sheet today and read what was installed. what are the front and rear stablilizer bars? is that teh same thing as the sway bar? jus checking. also horray! almost 15 posts!

 

Yes. I think all Maxima's, and most cars on the road have them.

 

Man i've asked so many questions already...anyways do they make the nismo stripe decal for this car? i know they had them for the spec v but i havent seen one for maxima yet.

 

Hi, I'm new here but have a question. Wow, that sounds familiar for some reaon. Anyway, my question (after having used the search function over and over and over again) is:

**What should a stock GLE suspension feel like? I just bought one and the suspension feels very "squishy". It feels like the shocks or bushings are shot. The car only has 66K miles so I'm wondering if this is just how the car feels. I thought Maximas had a taut suspension.

Thanks for the feedback and I'm looking forward to my Maxima experience.

OH yeah, is the auto tranny prone to failure or does it have a good rep? I just had one go out on my current car and would be pretty pissed if it happened again anytime soon. I do take good care of my cars and tend not to hammer on them much.

 

Hell, mine felt like driving a boat before I put suspension on. I think what you feel is normal for a stock Maxima. The SE has a bit more stiffness.

 

Ok now that my alternator problem has been solved, another one shows up. Right?! I was making right turn down hill and my oil light flashed for a couple seconds, then turned off. I waited a couple hours and checked the oil level, normal. I searched here and found some possibilities on what happened. If this doesn't happen again is it safe to say this was a freak happening? When should I start to get worried?

Thanks