Does anyone know where I can get one of these Solenoids? I have a 2002 Maxima. I have been trying to find it online however have had no success.

 

Probably a dealer only item. From what I've heard, it's around $180+.

Nissan P/N: 149558J100

Might type up a WTB in the classifieds. some people have sold them.

 

Sounds like you need to replace the MAF.

 

I have a question...I have a 2000 Maxima SE cloth, moonroof with about 68k miles....what is a reasonable price I could ask for? clean interior, a couple minor nicks on the rear bumper...thanks for the help in advance...I hate to sell it but I got some bills that need to be taken care of

 

I have a 2000 SE. The car has about 110,000 miles right now. I have had a few problems with it and now I have a few questions about it.

The car's check engine light was on and had three codes. General misfire, a cylinder specific misfire (cylinder 1), and the Idle Air code. Then on occasional start ups the car would run really rough, like it had a dead cylinder.

The idle air code scared me, so I tested the valve and it came out to 22ohms. So that wasn't it.

About a month ago I replaced the cylinder 1 coil and plugs. After I replaced the coil, I also did the Idle Air Volume relearn procedure because it was idling aroung 1k rpms. The car ran much better, but now a new crop of problems appeared, with all new codes. It still has the general misfire code, the idle air code, and now it has a code for bad catalyst.

1. The car has a very "nasal" exhaust note that I can feel the vibration of it inside the car.

2. It feels as though it is lacking power. It's kind of sluggish.

3. It doesn't run very well when it is started and cold. The car will start and run just fine, but when it tries to drop down to about 700 rpms the tach bounces. I can feel this surging when I put the car in gear as well. One morning the car even stalled out on me. This all goes away when the car is warmed up.

I'm thinking that maybe the coil problems led to straight gas going through and clogging/ruining the cat.

 

Can someone help me I bought a test pipe and would like to know if I put it on will it send a code that will turn on the check engin light?

 

I am also getting a code for running lean bank 2 and a general misfire code. Does anyone know what this might be. I was thinking that the lean in bank 2 could be a vacuum leak but not sure. I had the same code and thought it was the MAF sensor so changed that and the rought idle went away. Please help.

 

ok well Im about to swap my factory navi for a Pioneer Avic Z120Bt

I know people swapped the oem nav units out, but I want to know do i also need to buy the ac vents or will my 1 piece oem unit work with the aftermarket radio? I cant find the thread i had talking about this before, i just reformated my hd

thanks

 

My driver side CV joint needs to be replaced. I have done a good bit of searching and have found some good info on how to do it. Only question I have is I saw some site that talked about having to take out the right axle before taking out the left one. Is this the case for a 2002 Maxima or is that for older Maximas? If the left one is the only one that is bad, do I have to do anything to the right one?

http://www.ehow.com/how_7391836_repl...an-maxima.html

 

drain the tranny fluid, and only the 1 side that needs to be changed needs to come out

 

I recently got a 2001 Maxima SE(anniversary addition). The problem im having with the car is that when i start it for the first time everyday, it doesn't stay on. It require's me giving it throttle for about 5sec. in order for it to stay running. Also, my SERVICE ENGINE SOON, ABS, TCS(off), & SLIP lights are all on and won't turn off. Any suggestion as to what the problem is or what i should do?

 

Sounds like you could have any number of issues. The first thing to do is pull the engine codes and report those back here on the board.

It also sounds like your alternator either has failed or is failing. Is the car able to hold a charge? Are you finding a battery drain and having to re-charge?

 

Lean bank 2 could mean the O2 sensor is out or going out. Do the vacuum leak check first, and air intake leak. If you don't find leaks, then it is likely your O2 sensor.

The general misfire could be related to spark plugs, and/or your ignition coil packs. The coil packs have known issues and depending on your version you may have original with known issues. Check the coil packs for a grey dot on them. The grey dot indicates an updated version. If you don't want the cost of replacing all of them you can diagnose them with a multi-meter by checking resistance. There is a thread on here which describes this process in great detail.

 

I think you diagnosed it properly on your own. It certainly sounds like a clogged or bad cat. It could be one of the pre-cats or your main cat. Pull the cats to determine which one, but I would start with the main cat (easiest).

 

Check the going rate in autotrader or online. This will give you the best idea.

 

The EGR valve is on earlier models of the 2000. I just replaced mine yesterday along with EGR tube and EGR temp sensor.

The valve is located just below the throttle body next to the intake manifold. If you look at it from the drivers side of the engine bay with the intake removed you can see it easily.

Check the link below for a general idea on the location.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...1958_1970.html

 

My 2000 AT Maxima with 262K miles suddenly has begun stumbling and possibly backfiring, especially when cold. I have to warm it up at 1500 rpm to keep it running and it then runs better as it gets hotter, but it still occasionally stumbles leaving a traffic light. I have had a P0430 code for more than a year without a problem and there are no new codes being posted. Sparkplugs and the left bank 02 sensor were changed about 2 months ago. All the coils were replaced several years ago.

From the exhaust, I may be smelling unburnt fuel when it's cold. However, my gas mileage appears to be virtually unchanged.

Searching the forum leads me to wonder if I have a failing MAF, which was replaced several years ago. I think I read here that if the MAF is disconnected the car won't run higher than 3000 rpm. Is is useful to do this for fault isolation purposes?

It also has occurred to me that I got a bad tank of gas, but that sounds unlikely in this day and age. I have just put in some Drygas and will refill this weekend.

Anyone have some helpful thoughts/ideas I can investigate?


TIA!

 

im thinking about getting one, im not sure, its between a 03 max, or a 04 mazda 3 hatchback.

 

im new here but i had major back surgery and sold my 07 si sedan and took over payments for an 02 se auto.
im thrilled with the quiality of the car. it smokes the si in pickup but mileage sucks

 

i was driving home from advance to test battery, and the brake, battery, and airbag lights all turned on. thats usually alternator, then the battery proceeded to drain completely, i then stepped on the brake pedal and all was fine again. whats up with that

 

Sorry to get back so late but have been a wa for a while. its a 7inch screen!

 

Problem: Auto-shift handle got shoved forward and 'something' broke so that I can no longer shift the vehicle. Attempting to dismantle from the top down to see if I can locate what is broken.

Ran into a stopping point: I can't get the shifter handle off. I've removed the two screws that hold the handle onto the white plastic mount but when I pull up on the shift ****, there are two wires (overdrive) still attached to the ****. How do you remove these wires?\

There is a post on the main 5th gen page with no response.

Anyone have any idea what might be broken in there?

 

I have a 2000 Maxima SE that I bought used. It has the front passenger side strut noise that is characteristic of the factory service bulletin on the matter. What's wrong and how do I fix it?

 

I have a 2000 SE and a little while back the brake light began coming on only in the morning when it was cold. Now it is on all the time. What's the probable reason for this and how can I fix it?

 

Hey Guys. New to the forum. I have a 2000 Maxima. I just got Tokico Illumina's and S-Tech Springs that are going to lower the car by 1.4 inches all around. I am looking into getting Enkei EDR9's in 17 or 18's. Will the 18's cause fender rub? And also, I would perfer they just fit on (no customization). What is the best width and offset to use? Width options are 7, 7.5 or 8 and offset is either 45mm or 38mm. Thanks for the help. Need to know so I can order.

 

Could be the mount or the whole strut could be shot. How does it feel when you hit a bump?

 

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...hift-****.html


Have you checked your brake fluid?

 

Is there anybody that has experience with this?

 

Not sure what can be broken in there, but pull the shift lock tab cover and then push down on the white depression. When pushing down on this you should be able to shift.

The shift lock tab cover is just in front of the shifter.

 

I know Nissan has a factory service bulletin out on the matter.

TSB #NTB00030
NHTSA ID #610991

"Summary: THIS BULLETIN CONTAINS REPAIR PROCEDURES FOR VEHICLES EXHIBITING A CLICK OR CLUNK NOISE FROM THE RIGHT FRONT STRUT."

This sums it up. I'm pretty certain that the problem is because of the car's inherent defect and not wear. I figure that this is a common problem because my brother has the same issue with his 2000 GXE. The site has a link to information about how to fix this exact issue, but it leads me to a page requesting that I fork over some cash first.

 

I'm not sure if the link you are talking about is to get the actual bulletin or if it is something else. So, having said that, if you don't have the service bulletin you can get the revised version NTB00-030a at Nissanhelp.com. All you have to do is to become a member to be able to download it.
http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/Knowl...p=12&keyid=594

 

So yesterday morning I go out to start my car and no sooner do I turn the key it starts making these terrible clanking knocking sounds for like 5 seconds before it starts to quiet down a little and continues for another 5 seconds or so before I turn off the car. I checked the oil and it was pretty low, just touching the bottom of the stick. It took a little over 3/4 of a quart to get it to full. I restarted the car and the noise continued for another 5 seconds or so at the quieter level before turning into just like a lifter tapping sound for the next couple of minutes before slowly fading away.Started it a few more times throughout the day while the car was warm and it seemed fine. Then started the car again this morning and the tapping sound was there again for the first few minutes after I started it.

The strange thing was that I had just started the car the night before for a second to back it out of the driveway and it was perfect...

Do you guys think something damaged by the low oil? Will that tapping sound always be present on a cold start now? Could the 0w-30 oil I tried this time have anything to do with it (It said on the container it was fine for a 5w-30 or 10w-30 car)?

It's an 01 SE 5spd with about 150,000 miles on it now. I've owned it for the last 6 yrs and 100,000 miles and have always changed the oil every 5000 miles with mobil1 and have never had a problem. I usually at about 3000 miles (about how far I have gone on this oil change) it is down no more than half the etched marks on the stick. Could the 0w-30 oil I tried this time have anything to do with it? Sorry for the long winded post but wanted to get in all the details!

 

So yesterday morning I go out to start my car and no sooner do I turn the key it starts making these terrible clanking knocking sounds for like 5 seconds before it starts to quiet down a little and continues for another 5 seconds or so before I turn off the car. I checked the oil and it was pretty low, just touching the bottom of the stick. It took a little over 3/4 of a quart to get it to full. I restarted the car and the noise continued for another 5 seconds or so at the quieter level before turning into just like a lifter tapping sound for the next couple of minutes before slowly fading away.Started it a few more times throughout the day while the car was warm and it seemed fine. Then started the car again this morning and the tapping sound was there again for the first few minutes after I started it.

The strange thing was that I had just started the car the night before for a second to back it out of the driveway and it was perfect...

Do you guys think something damaged by the low oil? Will that tapping sound always be present on a cold start now? Could the 0w-30 oil I tried this time have anything to do with it (It said on the container it was fine for a 5w-30 or 10w-30 car)?

It's an 01 SE 5spd with about 150,000 miles on it now. I've owned it for the last 6 yrs and 100,000 miles and have always changed the oil every 5000 miles with mobil1 and have never had a problem. I usually at about 3000 miles (about how far I have gone on this oil change) it is down no more than half the etched marks on the stick. Could the 0w-30 oil I tried this time have anything to do with it? Sorry for the long winded post but wanted to get in all the details!

 

That was exactly what I needed. Thank you.

 

Long time lurker, second time poster. Been fighting a rough idle, SES/TC/Slip lights, P0300, P1320 issue for quite some time on my 2000 maxima. It has been doing it for about two years and I have been dealing with it. However, lately it has started to stall out at stop lights and even once will I was driving through my church parking lot. Not fun when your power steering goes out and you are driving too fast through a parking lot!!! So, I need to get this fixed up before it leaves me stranded somewhere or running into something or somebody.

I have ohmed out the coils and they seem okay, put in some new plugs, replaced rear O2 Sensor (that code came up one time I checked the codes), and ran fuel injector cleaner threw a few times. I tried checking for an intake air leak using the carb cleaner method, it proved inconclusive. There is definitely a strange sound coming from that area and I assumed it was a leak.

I can start it up and the idle will go up and down, and I can make it stall out by changing the load on the engine by revving the engine, turning on/off the A/C, or even moving the steering wheel?!? ( I assume the power steering plays in here).

I have checked several threads here and other sites and have a laundry list of possible things that could be wrong. Intake air leak, crankshaft position sensor, coils.

Anyone have an opinion or have any questions that could possibly help me figure this one out before I start swapping out parts or make the call to the dealership to set an appointment?

 

It definitely sounds like a leak either on the intake side, or in your vacuum system.

At this point I would recommend you inspect all vacuum system hoses very carefully. You can try the carb cleaner again focusing only on the vacuum lines. Keep in mind some of these lines are difficult to access if you have the intake on and the upper intake manifold on. I think at this point you should consider removing these pieces and doing a thorough visual, physical inspection of all vacuum lines. Inspect the throttle body gasket, and upper intake manifold gasket (including the EGR tube gasket) as well if you remove these pieces. If they are compressed, nicked, or otherwise damaged replace them, or if you wish to you can just replace them as preventative. I think the total cost is around $30 for all three gaskets.

You may further consider removing the upper intake manifold and inspecting those gaskets. Although, they generally do not leak and are long-life gaskets. If you have the money (about $80 for both sides) you may consider replacing them as preventative as well.

 

Thanks for the info. Took it to the dealership and they came back with $3000 worth of fixes.

Ignition Coils, MAF, and O2 sensor being the most important. They want $140 a piece for Nissan coils. Autozone wants 70 a piece for them. Is it worth double the price for the Nissan coils?

Same with the MAF sensor. Is a rebuilt one good enough?

She was a good car, might be time to trade it in.

 

In my opinion, "Nissan" coils are not worth double the price. Aftermarket ones are the same; they are just sold under a label other than the overpriced Nissan label. I've been running Autozone and Amazon coils for over 2 years now, without a glitch.
You might want to try cleaning the MAF sensor first. There are plenty of threads here on how to do that. I'm not sure if rebuilt MAF's are any good.


...or it might be time to learn how to work on your own car and $ave $ome $erious moola. That's what these forums are all about.

 

Do a MAF REPLACEMENT first. You can get just the sensor part from Dave Burnette at South Point Nissan (do a search) for relatively inexpensive. You will need a torx bit to remove and replace.

I honestly don't think it is a MAF issue, but if the dealer didn't find any leaks on their inspection (which is why they are tossing parts at it) then it may not be a leak.

 

Looks like you quoted the wrong poster.