5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
12-09-2010, 09:46 AM
Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 225
Yea this has to be the worst car forum I have been on to date, not letting newbies post threads is ridiculous, the plus side is everyone on here is very helpful, the down is you can't post questions. Out of this thread, the admin has set this up all wrong at least with other sites they allow you to post when your a newbie and they aren't lazy so they just delete the spam unlike the admin here who is obviously to lazy to do that so he has blocked us from posting!!! .... Thanks to everyone who replies to the newbies!!!! My bet is to find another maxima forum until they change this rule...
12-09-2010, 10:02 AM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 3
2000 tranny to a 20th anniversary 2001???
i have a 2001 20th anniversary SE max with an A/T and i wanna buy a 2000 max with A/T and im not sure if the trannys are interchangeable?? i know my 2001's motor is a little different cause its 5hp more but i called everywhere and it seems like the shafts and flywheel are i think mine is an LSD tranny and meabe the other one(2000) non-LSD and im kinda scared that the computers wont be the same or the whole wiring. i can't really go wrong buying the car because hes selling me one 2000 max with A/T and a 2001 max with M/T for 500$ so its pretty cheap. Can someone help me on that thanks!
12-09-2010, 12:38 PM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 9
2000 max gle. 174k miles.
I bought the car with many problems, replaced Idle air control motor, throttle body, mass air flow, all 6 ignition modules, water pump, timing chain, heads were decked and valve job, new radiator, new fans, all hoses and both thermostats.
NOW... it still over heats but only if I gun it over 5k rpm,, I can driver for an hour then gun it once and it will start to overheat.
Problem 2. I have cold air with a warm engine at idle and very hot air if I gas it to 2000rpms, and I did check coolant level, its topped off..
Problem 3. In P or N I cannot get to 1700-2700 rpms If I gas it at 1500 it will JUMP quickly to 3k. I cannot get it in-between. Makes it very hard to smog usually causes it to fail at least once. PLEASE HELP!!!
-Mike
I bought the car with many problems, replaced Idle air control motor, throttle body, mass air flow, all 6 ignition modules, water pump, timing chain, heads were decked and valve job, new radiator, new fans, all hoses and both thermostats.
NOW... it still over heats but only if I gun it over 5k rpm,, I can driver for an hour then gun it once and it will start to overheat.
Problem 2. I have cold air with a warm engine at idle and very hot air if I gas it to 2000rpms, and I did check coolant level, its topped off..
Problem 3. In P or N I cannot get to 1700-2700 rpms If I gas it at 1500 it will JUMP quickly to 3k. I cannot get it in-between. Makes it very hard to smog usually causes it to fail at least once. PLEASE HELP!!!
-Mike
Turns out Im loosing coolant after 1-2 weeks... Any Ideas where it could be dripping from? also is there a way to idenity were coolant is comming out such as floressing under a uv light? ...
12-09-2010, 01:39 PM
Yea this has to be the worst car forum I have been on to date, not letting newbies post threads is ridiculous, the plus side is everyone on here is very helpful, the down is you can't post questions. Out of this thread, the admin has set this up all wrong at least with other sites they allow you to post when your a newbie and they aren't lazy so they just delete the spam unlike the admin here who is obviously to lazy to do that so he has blocked us from posting!!! .... Thanks to everyone who replies to the newbies!!!! My bet is to find another maxima forum until they change this rule...
12-09-2010, 01:58 PM
I know that their is a dye that can be used that stays in the system for 1-2 weeks and is florescent but i do not know the name if it, but i think it was orange in color if that helps.
12-09-2010, 03:09 PM
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Where corn grows
Posts: 22
just installed the nwp vias block plate and now my car is jerking/hesitatiing when i gas on it. its only when i gas on it hard, if i ease into the gas everything is smooth.
so i put back on vias plate (hoping it would fix it) but it didnt.
i cleaned the mafs and it helped a little but it is still doing it.
anyone else experienced this or has a recomendation?
thanks
so i put back on vias plate (hoping it would fix it) but it didnt.
i cleaned the mafs and it helped a little but it is still doing it.
anyone else experienced this or has a recomendation?
thanks
12-09-2010, 08:52 PM
just installed the nwp vias block plate and now my car is jerking/hesitatiing when i gas on it. its only when i gas on it hard, if i ease into the gas everything is smooth.
so i put back on vias plate (hoping it would fix it) but it didnt.
i cleaned the mafs and it helped a little but it is still doing it.
anyone else experienced this or has a recomendation?
thanks
so i put back on vias plate (hoping it would fix it) but it didnt.
i cleaned the mafs and it helped a little but it is still doing it.
anyone else experienced this or has a recomendation?
thanks
You would be surprised as to what variables change on the car from being cold at start to warm and running.
I would check the intake for any leaks like you said, but also check the coil packs. There is a thread on here for checking each ignition coil pack to determine if it is good or not.
It still sounds like a vacuum leak or a fuel delivery issue. Maybe related to an O2 sensor since it takes a bit for those to warm up. Sometimes the O2 sensors won't be optimal, but they won't be so bad to throw an SES code.
Hi there, my plugs are brand new! Coils I'm not to sure about but I can tell its not a miss, itslie a sticky spot. Its definitely a air fuel problem I believe. I have gone out today a drove frove frove to figure this out, it only does it when its cold, I was wrong about it when driving as well only when its cold as soon as its warm its gone, the fuel filter I don't see it being that because once warm its gone I really think its a sensor of some kind. But what sensor would only act up when its cold, a vaccum leak could be possible, my lines are good. But I hear sometimes with the plastic intakes they warp in the cold and create a leak and once they warm up they expand and seal the leak like I said I haven't owed the car for long enough to know how it starts in the warm, the car is really well maintained at a nissan dealership but I won't take it to a shop till I get an engine light so I'm not paying crazy money for them to spend days figuring it out hahaha it would make sence that its lean because in the cold if I prime the motor and step on the gas and release it. It starts up pretty good. If it was to rich that would flood it wouldn't it???
Last edited by NmexMAX; 12-14-2010 at 11:24 AM.
12-10-2010, 07:01 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Where corn grows
Posts: 22
No you don't take off the intake manifold, just the vias plate on the side of it. Its an easy install and only one vacuum line has to be disconnected. i checked all though andno leaks, also no ses light...its got me stumpped
12-10-2010, 08:33 AM
Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 225
Hey thanks foodmanry for all of your help, k here let me try and explain in a bit different cuz I found some more things associated so if I try and start my car in the morning I turn on to acc and here it prime then kick it over it won't start up right away when I finish trying and the key returns to the acc I hear it prim again, then it fires up right away nice and smooth,now that its running, if I sit there whilein park and my temp is on the c line or below and very gently depress the gas once it hits 1700 rpm it hangs wobbles a tiny bit then kinda drops to 1500 but if I depress the gas pedal hard it revs normally it doesn't hesititate, also if I start my car and put it into drive and take off slowly it sticks around 1500 to 1700 rpm and if I push a little harder it will increase and take off normally, if I put it into d and take off with some speed it doesn't do it... This pretty much completely goes away once its warm I do notice when its warm and I take off I can feel the smallest slightest dead spot around the same rpm but very minor, if I'm crusing around town when its warmed up and the rpms for cruising tend to sit at about 1700 1900 rpm and it feels like a little bit of minor hesitation but I not 100 percent sure so it almost seems like a tps cuz no matter what its around the same throttle position it does it. But would a bad tps act worse in the cold??? I'm not to sure if the dtarting part is related, my milage seems good. I'm getting like just over 500 kms to a tank city driving, I'm stumped I don't know what it is, its not that bad its just driving me crazy that's all. No engine light either
You would be surprised as to what variables change on the car from being cold at start to warm and running.
I would check the intake for any leaks like you said, but also check the coil packs. There is a thread on here for checking each ignition coil pack to determine if it is good or not.
It still sounds like a vacuum leak or a fuel delivery issue. Maybe related to an O2 sensor since it takes a bit for those to warm up. Sometimes the O2 sensors won't be optimal, but they won't be so bad to throw an SES code.
I would check the intake for any leaks like you said, but also check the coil packs. There is a thread on here for checking each ignition coil pack to determine if it is good or not.
It still sounds like a vacuum leak or a fuel delivery issue. Maybe related to an O2 sensor since it takes a bit for those to warm up. Sometimes the O2 sensors won't be optimal, but they won't be so bad to throw an SES code.
Last edited by getflushed; 12-10-2010 at 08:36 AM.
12-10-2010, 11:22 AM
Basically disconnect the positive and negative battery cables. Step on the brake a few times to run out all residual energy and let it sit for at least 3 or 4 hours.
Beyond this, I'm not quite sure. May be MAF related, but it sounds like you didn't touch the MAF.
Hmm...maybe TPS sensor related, but I would bet more on a MAF going out.
Have you replaced the MAF sensor at all or cleaned it?
How the does car react if you step on it while it is cold, versus if you step on it while it is warm?
You can try the ide re-learn procedure (do a search), but I don't think that will change anything you are seeing.
Hey thanks foodmanry for all of your help, k here let me try and explain in a bit different cuz I found some more things associated so if I try and start my car in the morning I turn on to acc and here it prime then kick it over it won't start up right away when I finish trying and the key returns to the acc I hear it prim again, then it fires up right away nice and smooth,now that its running, if I sit there whilein park and my temp is on the c line or below and very gently depress the gas once it hits 1700 rpm it hangs wobbles a tiny bit then kinda drops to 1500 but if I depress the gas pedal hard it revs normally it doesn't hesititate, also if I start my car and put it into drive and take off slowly it sticks around 1500 to 1700 rpm and if I push a little harder it will increase and take off normally, if I put it into d and take off with some speed it doesn't do it... This pretty much completely goes away once its warm I do notice when its warm and I take off I can feel the smallest slightest dead spot around the same rpm but very minor, if I'm crusing around town when its warmed up and the rpms for cruising tend to sit at about 1700 1900 rpm and it feels like a little bit of minor hesitation but I not 100 percent sure so it almost seems like a tps cuz no matter what its around the same throttle position it does it. But would a bad tps act worse in the cold??? I'm not to sure if the dtarting part is related, my milage seems good. I'm getting like just over 500 kms to a tank city driving, I'm stumped I don't know what it is, its not that bad its just driving me crazy that's all. No engine light either
Last edited by NmexMAX; 12-14-2010 at 11:25 AM.
12-10-2010, 12:25 PM
Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 225
Hey foodmanry thanks for the quick response!!! I have pulled the maf and cleaned it good , but just because I cleaned it doesn't mean that its shot hahaha hopefully not!!! Hahahaall I know is I'm losing it over this! Ill try the reset and get back to yea thanks again!!!
Maybe you need to do an ECU reset?
Basically disconnect the positive and negative battery cables. Step on the brake a few times to run out all residual energy and let it sit for at least 3 or 4 hours.
Beyond this, I'm not quite sure. May be MAF related, but it sounds like you didn't touch the MAF.
Basically disconnect the positive and negative battery cables. Step on the brake a few times to run out all residual energy and let it sit for at least 3 or 4 hours.
Beyond this, I'm not quite sure. May be MAF related, but it sounds like you didn't touch the MAF.
12-10-2010, 12:32 PM
Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 225
Hey foodmanry if the car is cold and I step on it I don't feel it when its warm I don't feel it, if I gently press when cold I do feel it when I press gently when warm I can very very dlightly feel it and its always at 1500 to 1700 rpm never anywhere else in the throttle range, I know the people who owned it befor me ( a old couple) they drove it to the states( arizona) lots! And when your cruising on the highway the throttle tends to sit in that range when keeping a steady pace, that's why I was figuring it could be the tps because that's. Where the most wear would be on it because that's where the throttle sits, and apparently I bad tps can cause hard starting which I also have... Does anyone know of a way to test a tps without a multi meter?
Hmm...maybe TPS sensor related, but I would bet more on a MAF going out.
Have you replaced the MAF sensor at all or cleaned it?
How the does car react if you step on it while it is cold, versus if you step on it while it is warm?
You can try the ide re-learn procedure (do a search), but I don't think that will change anything you are seeing.
Have you replaced the MAF sensor at all or cleaned it?
How the does car react if you step on it while it is cold, versus if you step on it while it is warm?
You can try the ide re-learn procedure (do a search), but I don't think that will change anything you are seeing.
12-10-2010, 03:01 PM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1
2001 Nissan Maxima -- a new kind of idle problem
So folks, I've got this 2001 Maxima on my car lot. When I bought it, it drove just fine until it got warm, at which point it would start surging (sound familiar?). I figured this was just like V6 Honda Accords where the iac would stick and the motor would surge. I got to the shop, read the codes and cam up with p0505. No surprise there. I ordered a new IAC from Autozone and installed it later that day. I started the car after finishing the r&r and it idled fine. I shut it off and went home. The next day I was going to have a perspective wholesale buyer look at the car, so I pulled it out. As soon as I came to a stop on the front lot, the car died. I started the car again, and it died again. I got out and figured it needed to learn it's idle, so I disconnected both battery cables and left them like that for about half an hour. I also called my buyer and told him I'd show him the car another time.
When I reconnected the cables and started it, it idled fine again, though a little high (scanner shower 1200rpms). The MIL was also on again, p0505. So I let it idle for about thirty minutes and went about my business. When I came back to the car, it was dead. Once again, it wouldn't idle. I repeated my previous task, disconnected the battery and went inside to read some stuff online. Well, what I read scared me. All the stuff about the motor mounts frying the ECU and the ECU frying the IAC. So I went out, disconnected the motor mounts and took out the ECU. I took the panel off of it and didn't find anything visually wrong. The thing was pristine. So I reinstalled it and gave the car another shot, along with the proper idle learn procedure (although I didn't drive it to warm up the transmission). The idle dropped to 900RPMs, but then once I hit the gas and let it go back down, it would stall and die out. If I babied it, I could get it to stay at a constant 415rpms. At this point I started doubting my new IAC from Autozone and had them warranty it, only to be in the same situation. So, can anyone help me understand what's going on with it? I have a lot of money (maybe too much) in this car already and I really don't want to have to buy an ECU (even a used one) without knowing that it is the issue.
I tried the old one, and sure enough it was stuck open, and while I had a friend cycle the key, the PCM would keep trying to move the thing in and out. Same thing with the new one, although it wasn't stuck.
tl;dr:
Bad IAC, p0505, replaced IAC, car idles okay until I hit the gas, dies, won't idle again.
When I reconnected the cables and started it, it idled fine again, though a little high (scanner shower 1200rpms). The MIL was also on again, p0505. So I let it idle for about thirty minutes and went about my business. When I came back to the car, it was dead. Once again, it wouldn't idle. I repeated my previous task, disconnected the battery and went inside to read some stuff online. Well, what I read scared me. All the stuff about the motor mounts frying the ECU and the ECU frying the IAC. So I went out, disconnected the motor mounts and took out the ECU. I took the panel off of it and didn't find anything visually wrong. The thing was pristine. So I reinstalled it and gave the car another shot, along with the proper idle learn procedure (although I didn't drive it to warm up the transmission). The idle dropped to 900RPMs, but then once I hit the gas and let it go back down, it would stall and die out. If I babied it, I could get it to stay at a constant 415rpms. At this point I started doubting my new IAC from Autozone and had them warranty it, only to be in the same situation. So, can anyone help me understand what's going on with it? I have a lot of money (maybe too much) in this car already and I really don't want to have to buy an ECU (even a used one) without knowing that it is the issue.
I tried the old one, and sure enough it was stuck open, and while I had a friend cycle the key, the PCM would keep trying to move the thing in and out. Same thing with the new one, although it wasn't stuck.
tl;dr:
Bad IAC, p0505, replaced IAC, car idles okay until I hit the gas, dies, won't idle again.
12-12-2010, 08:27 AM
Ok so i bought the Clarion vx400 double din and the Metra 70-7551 harness. I did a self installation and connected all wires correctly on the harnesses while also grounding all 3 wires. The problems is that when i listen to something, there is absolutely no kick from the sub and the volume is sort of silent when the deck is at its max volume. I went back and rechecked all my connections and they were all fine. I have no idea what is wrong and without the sub, the system sounds pretty horrible. Any insight?? Please someone PM me or reply to this because i want to get this worked out as fast as possible. Thanks!!!
Last edited by djshwini; 12-12-2010 at 01:03 PM.
12-13-2010, 10:50 AM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 6
couple of questions....
1st is this normal?
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...2-13123112.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...2-13123147.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...2-13123228.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...2-13123302.jpg
sorry for links i had it as [img] but they didnt resize automatically
it only happens when i turn right that they actually touch. when i turn left the driver side doesnt touch. is it cuz of the end links? or is the sway bar bent?
2nd question...
does the maxima have floatin rotors or are they screwed down? reason for question is cuz i hear alot of movement coming from the passenger side and it sounds like the wheel is about to come off. the wheel is on tight so i kno its not the lugs that are loose...thanks for all the help it is greatly appreciated!!
1st is this normal?
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...2-13123112.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...2-13123147.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...2-13123228.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...2-13123302.jpg
sorry for links i had it as [img] but they didnt resize automatically
it only happens when i turn right that they actually touch. when i turn left the driver side doesnt touch. is it cuz of the end links? or is the sway bar bent?
2nd question...
does the maxima have floatin rotors or are they screwed down? reason for question is cuz i hear alot of movement coming from the passenger side and it sounds like the wheel is about to come off. the wheel is on tight so i kno its not the lugs that are loose...thanks for all the help it is greatly appreciated!!
Last edited by midnight711; 12-13-2010 at 10:55 AM.
12-13-2010, 12:16 PM
couple of questions....
1st is this normal?
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...2-13123112.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...2-13123147.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...2-13123228.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...2-13123302.jpg
sorry for links i had it as [img] but they didnt resize automatically
it only happens when i turn right that they actually touch. when i turn left the driver side doesnt touch. is it cuz of the end links? or is the sway bar bent?
2nd question...
does the maxima have floatin rotors or are they screwed down? reason for question is cuz i hear alot of movement coming from the passenger side and it sounds like the wheel is about to come off. the wheel is on tight so i kno its not the lugs that are loose...thanks for all the help it is greatly appreciated!!
1st is this normal?
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...2-13123112.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...2-13123147.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...2-13123228.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...2-13123302.jpg
sorry for links i had it as [img] but they didnt resize automatically
it only happens when i turn right that they actually touch. when i turn left the driver side doesnt touch. is it cuz of the end links? or is the sway bar bent?
2nd question...
does the maxima have floatin rotors or are they screwed down? reason for question is cuz i hear alot of movement coming from the passenger side and it sounds like the wheel is about to come off. the wheel is on tight so i kno its not the lugs that are loose...thanks for all the help it is greatly appreciated!!
The rotors are not "floating," in the sense that once the wheel is bolted on, they don't move, because the rotor hat is sandwiched between the wheel and the hub. The brake caliper does float side-to-side on the pins. You might have a hub bearing going out, which might let the whole wheel/rotor/hub flange move around. Best bet is to jack it up and do some looking, pushing, and pulling on parts to see what moves. If the wheel will move at all in any direction besides just rotating, you've got a bad hub.
12-13-2010, 01:56 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 1,767
Ok so i bought the Clarion vx400 double din and the Metra 70-7551 harness. I did a self installation and connected all wires correctly on the harnesses while also grounding all 3 wires. The problems is that when i listen to something, there is absolutely no kick from the sub and the volume is sort of silent when the deck is at its max volume. I went back and rechecked all my connections and they were all fine. I have no idea what is wrong and without the sub, the system sounds pretty horrible. Any insight?? Please someone PM me or reply to this because i want to get this worked out as fast as possible. Thanks!!!
12-13-2010, 02:33 PM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: CT
Posts: 11
Here's my problem...
I'm trying to replace my headlights on my 2000 Maxima because the headlight housing is broken. As I tried to remove the 10mm bolts that hold the housing down, the heads just snapped off. They didn't seem rusted on top but it happened to be underneath. I need to get some replacement bolts, is there any specific bolts to get???
Thanks!
I'm trying to replace my headlights on my 2000 Maxima because the headlight housing is broken. As I tried to remove the 10mm bolts that hold the housing down, the heads just snapped off. They didn't seem rusted on top but it happened to be underneath. I need to get some replacement bolts, is there any specific bolts to get???
Thanks!
12-13-2010, 03:02 PM
I just opened a thread less than 10 mins ago... How come it was closed and no one can reply to it?
heres the link to my thread: http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ts-better.html
heres the link to my thread: http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ts-better.html
12-13-2010, 03:06 PM
Here's my problem...
I'm trying to replace my headlights on my 2000 Maxima because the headlight housing is broken. As I tried to remove the 10mm bolts that hold the housing down, the heads just snapped off. They didn't seem rusted on top but it happened to be underneath. I need to get some replacement bolts, is there any specific bolts to get???
Thanks!
I'm trying to replace my headlights on my 2000 Maxima because the headlight housing is broken. As I tried to remove the 10mm bolts that hold the housing down, the heads just snapped off. They didn't seem rusted on top but it happened to be underneath. I need to get some replacement bolts, is there any specific bolts to get???
Thanks!
I just opened a thread less than 10 mins ago... How come it was closed and no one can reply to it?
heres the link to my thread: http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ts-better.html
heres the link to my thread: http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ts-better.html
Alternatively, if you want to know why it's closed, why wouldn't you message the person that obviously closed it?
12-13-2010, 03:08 PM
I just opened a thread less than 10 mins ago... How come it was closed and no one can reply to it?
heres the link to my thread: http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ts-better.html
heres the link to my thread: http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ts-better.html
Last edited by NmexMAX; 12-13-2010 at 03:11 PM.
12-13-2010, 03:34 PM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 2
Hello guys kinda new here and your help will be greatly appreciated.i picked up 2002 maxima se. Wehn i bought it ,had service engine soon light on but after driving it for about 600 km the light went out by it self.now the car is running like a dream. So is it a gud thing or a warning for really bad thing. Dont know much about cars .........thanks in advance ...............
12-13-2010, 03:35 PM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: CT
Posts: 11
Any M6x1 bolt will be fine.
Did you not read the mod's reply? That topic has been covered countless times, and all it takes to find the answers (which are largely opinionated) is to search.
Alternatively, if you want to know why it's closed, why wouldn't you message the person that obviously closed it?
Did you not read the mod's reply? That topic has been covered countless times, and all it takes to find the answers (which are largely opinionated) is to search.
Alternatively, if you want to know why it's closed, why wouldn't you message the person that obviously closed it?
Any suggestions on how to get the rest of the bolt out? I tried but it's not really accessible with a couple of hand tools.
12-13-2010, 04:34 PM
couple of questions....
1st is this normal?
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...2-13123112.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...2-13123147.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...2-13123228.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...2-13123302.jpg
sorry for links i had it as [img] but they didnt resize automatically
it only happens when i turn right that they actually touch. when i turn left the driver side doesnt touch. is it cuz of the end links? or is the sway bar bent?
2nd question...
does the maxima have floatin rotors or are they screwed down? reason for question is cuz i hear alot of movement coming from the passenger side and it sounds like the wheel is about to come off. the wheel is on tight so i kno its not the lugs that are loose...thanks for all the help it is greatly appreciated!!
1st is this normal?
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...2-13123112.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...2-13123147.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...2-13123228.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...2-13123302.jpg
sorry for links i had it as [img] but they didnt resize automatically
it only happens when i turn right that they actually touch. when i turn left the driver side doesnt touch. is it cuz of the end links? or is the sway bar bent?
2nd question...
does the maxima have floatin rotors or are they screwed down? reason for question is cuz i hear alot of movement coming from the passenger side and it sounds like the wheel is about to come off. the wheel is on tight so i kno its not the lugs that are loose...thanks for all the help it is greatly appreciated!!
Hello guys kinda new here and your help will be greatly appreciated.i picked up 2002 maxima se. Wehn i bought it ,had service engine soon light on but after driving it for about 600 km the light went out by it self.now the car is running like a dream. So is it a gud thing or a warning for really bad thing. Dont know much about cars .........thanks in advance ...............
Last edited by NmexMAX; 12-14-2010 at 11:23 AM.
12-13-2010, 06:41 PM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 6
Hard to tell, but it looks like a bent sway bar to me.
The rotors are not "floating," in the sense that once the wheel is bolted on, they don't move, because the rotor hat is sandwiched between the wheel and the hub. The brake caliper does float side-to-side on the pins. You might have a hub bearing going out, which might let the whole wheel/rotor/hub flange move around. Best bet is to jack it up and do some looking, pushing, and pulling on parts to see what moves. If the wheel will move at all in any direction besides just rotating, you've got a bad hub.
The rotors are not "floating," in the sense that once the wheel is bolted on, they don't move, because the rotor hat is sandwiched between the wheel and the hub. The brake caliper does float side-to-side on the pins. You might have a hub bearing going out, which might let the whole wheel/rotor/hub flange move around. Best bet is to jack it up and do some looking, pushing, and pulling on parts to see what moves. If the wheel will move at all in any direction besides just rotating, you've got a bad hub.
ok i will...any place in particular i should go to ?
12-14-2010, 04:48 AM
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 1,767
12-14-2010, 11:15 AM
They aren't terribly expensive. Go to local dealer, or courtesy nissan (online), or contact Dave Burnette at South Point Nissan.
If you don't know who Dave Burnette is, do a search.
Idle RPM
--Manual: 575 to 675 RPM
--Automatic: 650 to 750 RPM
RPM's while driving are dependent on the gear you are in at the time.
I don't know what het is....?
If you don't know who Dave Burnette is, do a search.
--Manual: 575 to 675 RPM
--Automatic: 650 to 750 RPM
RPM's while driving are dependent on the gear you are in at the time.
I don't know what het is....?
Last edited by NmexMAX; 12-14-2010 at 11:25 AM.
12-14-2010, 08:00 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 12
Hi - I need some help with a spark plug change on an '03. I'm trying to buy the gasket that will be replaced when I pull the manifold. The dealer quoted me a price of $5 and change on part #14010A. I was under the impression this gasket costs more like $30.00- Do I have the right gasket?
12-14-2010, 11:31 PM
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12-15-2010, 10:12 AM
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Starting
new here - hope this is the place to post these questions.
Have 2003 Maxima SE, and having starting issue.
1) Occasionally the car will not start, no clicking (or whirring), only has happened after starting and travelling short distance to fill gas tank. Twice now I have it towed, it starts after tow (flat bed), and the mechanic who looks at it says he can't find anything wrong it. He says he could change the starter motor but he won't garantee that is the problem. Any ideas to check for before have the starter motor changed ? NOTE: this has only occured since we have come into colder weather. not sure if this is a condition but noted.
Also
2) I need to get suspension done, when I check the part places, I note that they do not have any references to rear struts. Am I confused ? Because some of the forums talk of them. or is this just a reference to the rear shock assembly.
hope you can help
Thanks
Have 2003 Maxima SE, and having starting issue.
1) Occasionally the car will not start, no clicking (or whirring), only has happened after starting and travelling short distance to fill gas tank. Twice now I have it towed, it starts after tow (flat bed), and the mechanic who looks at it says he can't find anything wrong it. He says he could change the starter motor but he won't garantee that is the problem. Any ideas to check for before have the starter motor changed ? NOTE: this has only occured since we have come into colder weather. not sure if this is a condition but noted.
Also
2) I need to get suspension done, when I check the part places, I note that they do not have any references to rear struts. Am I confused ? Because some of the forums talk of them. or is this just a reference to the rear shock assembly.
hope you can help
Thanks
12-15-2010, 12:11 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: st. mary's, ontario, canada
Posts: 1
Just wondering what would cause my 2001 Maxima to squeal when it first starts up and has to turn or go up a slight incline? Sounds like a power steering situation but not clear. This squeal lasts only for a short time.
12-15-2010, 01:36 PM
1) Problem 1 sounds like it has to do with the security where the chip in your key is not recognized and leaves the car disabled (unable to start). Does the car show any power when you have the key in the ACC or ON position?
2) It is rear shock, not strut. Fronts are struts.
2) It is rear shock, not strut. Fronts are struts.
new here - hope this is the place to post these questions.
Have 2003 Maxima SE, and having starting issue.
1) Occasionally the car will not start, no clicking (or whirring), only has happened after starting and travelling short distance to fill gas tank. Twice now I have it towed, it starts after tow (flat bed), and the mechanic who looks at it says he can't find anything wrong it. He says he could change the starter motor but he won't garantee that is the problem. Any ideas to check for before have the starter motor changed ? NOTE: this has only occured since we have come into colder weather. not sure if this is a condition but noted.
Also
2) I need to get suspension done, when I check the part places, I note that they do not have any references to rear struts. Am I confused ? Because some of the forums talk of them. or is this just a reference to the rear shock assembly.
hope you can help
Thanks
Have 2003 Maxima SE, and having starting issue.
1) Occasionally the car will not start, no clicking (or whirring), only has happened after starting and travelling short distance to fill gas tank. Twice now I have it towed, it starts after tow (flat bed), and the mechanic who looks at it says he can't find anything wrong it. He says he could change the starter motor but he won't garantee that is the problem. Any ideas to check for before have the starter motor changed ? NOTE: this has only occured since we have come into colder weather. not sure if this is a condition but noted.
Also
2) I need to get suspension done, when I check the part places, I note that they do not have any references to rear struts. Am I confused ? Because some of the forums talk of them. or is this just a reference to the rear shock assembly.
hope you can help
Thanks
12-15-2010, 01:37 PM
Does it squeal any time you turn, or only when it is cold and you turn?