hey guys. i want to wire my LED strips in the inside of my car. 4 in total. these led strips are the big one about 30 CM. i wanted to know if anyone knows how to run the wires from where it should be ran from ( ie the inside of the hood battery fuse box etc) to get it wired inside of the car. same thing with the subwoofer. i have everything i need to do the job just dont no how to do it. need help asap. thanks a lot

 

hey every one I poured a can of engine restore into my car without pouring any oil out (wasn't thinking) and not even 20 feet of driving and check engine light popped on and now the car is ideling low and I have two codes p0021 & p0011

 

As far as the additive goes, some tell you to add to a fresh oil change, some don't care, it depends on what you added.

As to the codes, they are both camshaft sensor codes, P0011 is for the right bank (firewall side) and P0021 is the left bank (radiator side).

The odds of them going bad at the same time is rather unusual. I would check around the area where you were working at, looking for disconnected wires or damaged wiring.

 

So I been having the p0300 multiple misfire code for a while, i have replaced all spark plugs and checked coils and they all seem good. After trying so long to find the problem i decided to take it to a shop to have it scanned. They told me it came multiple misfire but it didnt specify anything. So they checked the coils and said they seem good.

They told me 3 things they believe might be bad which are dirty/clogged fuel injectors, wire harness that might be damaged or having a short or last but least possible the ecm.

They suggested to add a bottle of lucas fuel stabilizer and put some regular good gas and run it a few times in the highway. That the problem might go away if not to take it to them and they would check everything again for free.

I just wanted to ask can clogged or dirty fuel injectors cause the multiple misfire code?


By the way the car is a 02 maxima 6spd 127k and the car runs good with no hesitation problems, although i could hear a hardly noticeable misfire.

 

Sort of No. While they can make the engine run like garbage, they won't cause a code. Nissan did not build any monitoring into the fuel injectors. The ECM/ECU monitors electrical things such as the electrical current flowing to the ignition coils. The ignition coils will many times deteriorate slowly rather than outright fail. Checking coils (and just how were they checked?) when it works part time isn't always effective. The usual test is to use an ohmmeter and measure resistance. If the coil isn't outright dead, the resistance reading is usually good.

It is a little bit of guesswork at his point. Since P0300 doesn't point to any specific cylinder, you could replace all the coils at once. This is kind of expensive. Or you could live with it for a while and see if any specific cylinder code pops up (P0301 to P0306). Sooner or later it will, but who knows how long that will take. In the meantime, if you happen to see the check engine light flash, that means the mis-fire is happening at that moment. The misfiring may be more likely to happen under heavy acceleration.

 

Ok so I have gotten things going now. I changed the plugs, air filter was nasty, changed oil and filter. Key fobs work for a few then die even with new battery figure I need new key fobs. anyone else had luck with after market programed key fobs?

My biggest worry now is I just did the front and rear brakes rotors looked great and cv joints and boots look fairly new. I even did the back up test left to right backwards and all sounds great no popping. Ok back to concern the struts boots are gone terrible looking the covers. I have some cupping wear on the rear tires. I know the struts are bad there I can somtimes here a little noise in front as well I assume again struts are the bad guy. I also noticed the tie rod rubber boots are cracked and old. I assume from looking all of this from a front end with 155000 and 13 years will need to have some work done.

Here are my thoughts a complete front end kit sway bar and tie rod ends and control arms. Its like 166 plus shipping. The quick struts are like 127 each front and 83 rear each. tires dont match and like i said back are crap I was thinking just throwing some Nexen brand tires on there for now for 79 each. Its only going to be driven in town as a first time driver for my daughter. My main concern is safe and not a pile of crap. the latter is covered she is a sweet ride even for an old lady now.

What do you think 900 or so to much to spend seems like a bargain considering the kind of car she will have with the work done.

I did have a 303 /1320 code the plugs took care of that runs great now and some injector cleaner and the RIGHT gas. Run the premium its what they like.

 

Hello, I just got a 2002 Nissan Maxima yesterday. Before I bought it, I had a mechanic check it out and he said I needed to replace the radiator asap. So, I got a OEM radiator online and had it shipped here. I took out the old one and sure enough there was a huge clump of dirt and stuff in the center of it. After putting in the new one and getting to the point to where now i need to add new coolant, I asked the guy at Advance Auto Parts and he said my radiator should hold 8.13 quarts of coolant. I mixed my 1 gallon of coolant and started to pour it into the radiator. However, after 1 gallon, It was full. So I started the car and ran it for 20 mins trying to open up the thermostat so I could finish pouring the rest of the coolant. It only went down about 2 cups. Ive been trying to fix this for about 24 hours now. Any Ideas? Is my radiator a pile of crap?

Thanks

 

No. 8 quarts for the entire system.

Radiator only will be less. When the radiator was removed the entire cooling system was not drained. So what you put back in is fine. Drive around and keep an eye on the reservoir tank just to be sure.

 

Okay I am going to start with I live in New England, and I just got hit with the nemo storm. After I dug my car out and it was running for about a half hour, I noticed the break light and the battery light were on. My emergency break was off, so I kept driving thinking it was just an electrical wire loose or something.

About ten minutes into my drive I noticed my radio started going in and out, and then a few minutes after that I started losing power. My car was still started but it didnt have acceleration, Even if i stomped on the gas.

At this point the break light, battery, and ABS light are all on. In gears D, R 3,2,1 It does not rev, or accelerate at all if I push on the gas pedal. But in Park and Neutral It will rev with a Lot of power.

At this point I realise my power is dying as well, It has problems starting if i Turn it off but I have this power pack thing in that will charge the battery and it will start. Still with dimming power.

I am reading catalytic converter and alternator. What are thoughts?

No check engine light, and I dont have anything to get a Code .

 

Brake and battery is TEXTBOOK alternator. Symptoms imply the same. Replace or get it replaced ASAP.

It's not your cat converter.

 

Before taking it to the shop i checked for resistance on the coils an they were all almost the same except two were a little lower than the rest but not by alot. I am not sure how the shop tested them tho.

I also did a vacuum test and the car did good. So I know spark plugs or vacum leak arent the cause of the misfire.

I was planning on fixing the car an taking it to the emissions, so I could sell it after passin the test. So i really dont want to wait for the car to get another check engine light.

I was also wondering what can also cause a misfire in these maxima's? apart from the usual like coils, plugs, leaks.

 

That little bit of resistance difference could still be your coils.

With the car running unplug plug wires. See if any diffference. Use a switch/combination technique to rule out which coils are bad.

 

I tried unplugging them while the car is running and i could hear the difference, althought its not a big difference when plugged nd not plug.

Also the check engine light flashes even when the car is warming up and not even under load.

Im thinking of buying 3 oem used coils and switch out the fronts ones to see if it fixes the problem.

Thanks for info

 

You can still easily throw misfire codes with an injector fault. There is no specific fuel injection monitoring circuit (although I'd expect overcurrent protection within the ECM, so there is some monitoring going on), no, but the misfire monitors have nothing to do with that.

The ECM detects misfires from variations in engine speed during a power stroke.

You would do best to not drive the car with the check engine light flashing. That's the ECM indicating a severe misfire, with quite possible converter damage if it's dumping raw fuel into the exhaust.

Take it back and have them re-diag it, as they said they would.

 

I'm new on the forum, but does anyone know if the Maxima seats are interchangeable? I have a 2001 and am wondering if the seats from the 2012 would fit on the 2001 Maxima or would I need new brackets.

 

Okay so I have a 2003 nissan maxima, it has a 3.5 L v6. I've been wanting to add something on it, and thinking about doing something to my exhaust system. I want to know what I could do for the absolute cheapest price to make it sound loud, but clean at the same time, and pass emissions. I don't plan on removing the catalytic converter or anything like that. I was wanting to know if it would be best to buy the catback exhaust system on eBay and just put that on my car, or if I should buy a Y-Pipe, and put a glasspack muffler on it. Please anyone any suggestions on what I could do for anywhere from 100-200 dollars?
Thanks!

 

From what I have read, this recall has put a dent in the theft of the 5.5 gen headlights. I woudl check to be sure that the headlight recall was performed before I got too confident, however.

 

+1 for cleaning throttle body

 

Is the suspension original? At this mileage I would not be surprised if the struts were done. At ~ 180k KM, one my struts was totally gone while the other one was almost there.

 

I have a 2003 Maxima that was throwing a P0420 code nearly a year ago. It happened just before I needed to get emissions done, so instead of hunting down the culprit (as I've read that the bank 1 pre-cat isn't always the problem for that code), I used anti-foulers to back one of the O2 sensors out of the exhaust. Reset the code and it never came back. Kinda forgot about it until recently when trying to accelerate quickly, the car doesn't seem to have power. Normal driving seems fine, I just can't hit the throttle hard. At first I thought the AT might be slipping since I had a recent tranny flush done. Had the shop drive it and they said the engine and transmission seemed fine, and suggested it could be something like spark plugs or a clogged cat robbing power (although they were skeptical since there was no code/SES light ). So, I am considering starting with an aftermarket Eastern Catalytic converter (40477 from RockAuto) on the firewall side. Does this seem like the best/right place to start? I'm not looking to do anything to eliminate the pre-cats, and I'm trying to keep costs down. Thoughts? Also, can someone point me to the appropriate gaskets for each end? That part is a little confusing since most diagrams I've seen are crappy.

 

If you do end up needing to replace the pre-cat, I'm thinking the P0430 is the radiator side. I believe the other guy said it was the firewall side, so just double-check.

 

hey I was just wondering if anyone runs their car on 87 octane instead of higher? any issues if you do? I know premium is recommended but is their any difference? check engine light? run bad? thx

 

As long as nothing is wrong with your car you probably won't notice much difference. I get slightly better gas mileage running premium. Other than that, never noticed any difference in how it drives.

 

Thanks for the tips. I already replaced the MAF sensor, as well as cleaned out my throttle body. My air filter is clean also. I am wondering, could my rough idling that feels like "choking" be a symptom of the fuel pump and/or filter? It's still behaving that way. Around 1500 RPM I am hearing a metallic rattle also. I would have no idea about bypassing the coolant/IACV. Why do that? How is it done? Any help I can get is sincerely appreciated.

 

Always check the FSM to be certain.

 

so i have a 2000 i30 and its idle is rough and has the p0171 and p0300 trying to narrow down what it might be i have noticed loss of power under load and it running poorly when it gets to temp. but not signs of the misfire when cold i feel that i might need to do the o2 sensor ... i have already replaced the spark plugs but not the coils if you like brain teasers and wanna help that would be much appreciated !

did you find a solution if so what was it



Posted from Maxima.org App for Android

 

I don't even know what this piece is called. I've typed in, "Headlight gasket", "Headlight seal", "Headlight rubber", "Headlight weather", and probably a few other things. But, I can't find this rubber thing anywhere. I noticed it was basically useless when I changed this bulb. Is it really necessary? If so, where can I get it?

 

that just basically is a shroud that protects the connection btwn the headlights and the socket.

 

Hey guys -

This past Sunday my 02 GLE stalled out on me. Was working fine for 2 years no issues. Filled up tank before blizzard, it sat for 2 days under snow. Sunday I drove it and the heat wasn't working. About 15 minutes later it stalled and needed a tow.

They replaced a cam shaft sensor,VIAS, and battery. I picked it up.
Car was making a bad wrapping sound and they thought it was just bad gas. Told me to burn off ful tank. I drove for about 15 minutes and the car died again. I could feel weak performance on the highway.

I researched the forum here and saw a lot of people complaining about MAF. I told them about this and to check the cat -- they said everything is fine with compression, the MAF, and timing.

They replaced the crank sensor and car still stalls out. They said the wrapping sound has gone away. They are sending it to another master electrical tech tomorrow to put a scope on it.

It's throwing 3 codes:

p1800
p0345
p0300

I talked to another tech that said he saw a similar problem and needed a new ECU.

Anyone else see this? ECU's go bad often? Costs for ECU's are around the $1k mark?

Any help is appreciated.

 

Well I had a post with a question but not sure where it went but I have a 2000 maxima and the check eng light came on for front cat or vac leak. reg gas might of been put in it so my question is would reg gas pop a code? It runs fine just has a light on..... thx

 

It could. Reset battery and wait a couple hundred miles. If it pops on again unfortunately it might be a pre cat, an o2 sensor or the infamous precat/o2 sensor combo.....if the car has well over 100k on it...

 

Hey does anyone have this issue and if you do have you determined what noise this is and where it is coming from? Every time I drive around 2-3k rpms the car makes a rattle noise sounds like its coming from passenger front side. No one can seem to find out where it's coming from I took it to service nothing is loose its not exhaust shield or heat shield and oil has just been changed. What could this be???

 

Timing chain? Hopefully for you its not. I would think most heat shield type rattles would occur at idle if you have an auto especially...

 

Check your oil yet? Are you SURE there is no loose items like heat shield? It is common.

 

ive had the same rattle. At first i found out that it was a bracket on one of the heatshields that broke. It would always make a loud rattle noise exactly at that rpm at low speed.

After fixing that i found another rattle noise this time a little more faint and usually just when accelerating. I found it to be the vias solenoid which is also on the passenger side of the engine. Only way i fixed that was with a block off plate. Now no more rattle noises

If its not any of those culprits it then ya it could be something more serious. low oil or maybe vtc making noises. timing chain. Hopefully other ppl will help you with that

this was just my experience with these dang rattle noises on our cars.

 

I went back to the dealer and told them and got a refund. When I told them it was the wrong bulbs they looked at me funny esp. when i gave them the right part #. They printed out a diagram of the setup and asked me if I was sure it was that bulb. Mayb I should jus work for them. lol The proper bulbs are $6 ea. but i only need 3 of them. Where did you get your bulbs from? mayb I can use it for future reference

 

I purchased a 2000 Nissan Maxima SE w/automatic, and 146,000 miles on it. I've had a check engine light come on from an O2 sensor, but that went out with the cold weather. I bought the car for performance and gas mileage. I put a K&N filter into the car and just looking if anyone has simple/cheap tips to just add to the performance and gas mileage? So far, I regret not buying one of these years ago, gets and scoots, comfortable ride.

 

Greetings, I am posting here as I have run out of ideas with my recent starter install:

I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima with 125,000 miles. Six months ago I put in a new (made in china) starter from O'reilly autoparts. Last week I had a hung starter (it was pretty exciting; luckily I was able to yank the battery cable off before it got too hot and something caught fire.) Having learned my lesson, I picked up a Napa rebuilt Bosch Starter (made in Canada I think.) I completed the install and put everything back together, and didn't hear anything when I turned the key (I did have all the idiot lights come on in the dash.)

I first suspected the starter, so I took it out and brought it back to Napa. Although they did not have a bench tester, the guy there hooked up a battery to it and tested both the motor and the solenoid, and it spun right up.

Next I checked the battery, pulled it out and fully charged it over night, and cleaned the terminals. I cleaned the battery cables (positive terminal had some gunk), replaced the 120A fusible link and cleaned all the places where it grounds to the vehicle in the engine compartment. I also checked for any blown fuses in both the fuse box in the engine bay and below the steering column (where the ignition fuse would be.) Connections to the starter are clean and installed correctly.

Put the whole thing back together and now I hear the starter and flywheel turning, but that's it, no ignition! Would it be the ignition switch? However after the chinese made starter hung, I hit it with a hammer and it started fine every time until I pulled it out to replace it (didn't want to drive around and wait for another hung starter to occur.)

I should also mention I am also fighting the dreaded P1320 ignition coil error code. I replaced all six coil packs and spark plugs from Autozone (although I am now kicking myself for not getting genuine factory oem coil packs as they did not clear the code.) Not sure if the starter install problem and P1320 code are related.

I would greatly appreciate any new ideas or areas to trouble shoot. Thanks everyone.

 

Is the red led light that is in the clock on solid while you are cranking the engine? If it is, the security system has immobilized you and you will need to get the keys re-programmed by either Nissan or a private locksmith.

The P1320 code could be there from a bad crankshaft sensor as well as problem coils. And a bad crankshaft sensor can also keep you from starting the car.

Get the service manual and look up the codes in the EC section.

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/

Only thing is since you have a 2000, there are 2 versions of the manual. Which one you get is determined by the car's VIN. Look at the last 8 characters.

If your car's VIN is below YT0 12237 or YT2 11681 or YT5 27430 or YT7 40492, download the 2000 manual.

If your car's VIN is equal to or above those numbers, download the 2000.5 manual.

 

First, thanks for the reply and information.

When I turn the key the blinking security light is NOT solid and goes away, so that rules out the security lock out. I replaced both crank sensors (forward and back,) with no change. It still sounds like something is rotating and the starter is working, just no cranking or ignition.

I also turned the engine over just to make sure it wasn't seized and maybe if it was on a bad/broken tooth on the flywheel.

The wire bundle from the positive terminal looks fine, but perhaps something melted when the original starter hung?

I will look in that manual, thanks for the link. Does anyone have any other ideas as I am running out of possible options. Thanks again for the help.