My product is a perfect fit, and allows for easy access to the spare tire without having to remove a trunk floor sized sheet of wood

 

So i bought a grounding kit and ran into a kind of big problem. So i grounded the points that I wanted including the timing chain cover, but when I went to tighten one the the 2, I accidentally destroyed the bold. (torqued to high???) This was not the bolt I grounded but the one closer to the front of the car. So Now i have the thread part of the bolt stuck in the block. Do you know how to get it out and what size bolt that is so i can put a new one??? Thank you!

 

Post a picture.

You'll probably have to drill it out. If you're careful you may not mess up the block - though I would take it to an experienced mechanic for them to properly extract it. If you don't know what you're doing you can mess it up very easily.

 

Is it above the frame area, accessible with a regular drill? If not, then you'll need a slim right angle drill to fit in there.

If it was a 10mm head bolt then it's M6x1.0 thread (and even with a grade 9 bolt, the upper limit for torque there is ~11 ft/lb).

As said, post a picture. There are some that I wouldn't waste the effort to extract/drill out and rethread, just leave them be.

To get it out, my first step would be left-hand drill bits. Failing that, drill it out and either retap it, or helicoil/timesert/etc it.

 

Sorry i cant post the picture of the actual bolt but If you look at the the second picture down on the link bellow (irish's write up) it is the bolt closest to the front of the car. On the second picture down, its the top red box. In the third picture, its the lower red box.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/442543...maxima/page-16

The thing is, there is a set of wires bolted in there (i think they are grounded there) so i kind of need to replace it.

 

You can move the ground wires from the broken bolt to the remaining bolt, or to another bolt in the area. Though if you are set on getting it out, at least it's easy to get to.

 

OK cool. Would it matter if I place 3 ground wires on one bolt?? and the torque should be around 11 right?

 

You can have 3 on one. Tight enough so it doesn't move, but less than it takes to break off the head

 

So I picked up my car from the body shop today where they fixed some nasty scratches that were on the car when I bought it and when I get home I cannot unlock the drivers door. I can hear it try but it sound like the actuator is not fully working. Could they have screwed something up when they reinstalled the outer door handle? I have an appointment at the dealership tomorrow for an annoying heater problem, blower wheel hitting housing, and will ask the about it then. Any ideas before I see the dealer tomorrow? Your help will be greatly appreciated!

 

Ok so yeah before i read to just ground all 3 on the top bolt i tried driving it... Bad idea. ( yeah i dont know what was going through my head...) Every 10 seconds the car would shut off on me (almost like it was stalling, but i drive a AT) So I placed all three on the single bolt.
Even though it is fixed, would one ground wire (stock) going to one of the bolts cause the car to shut off every 10 seconds?? Sorry if thats a pretty obvious question...

 

There are metal rods ('door linkage') inside the door that connect the exterior door handle and locking mechanism to the interior door handles, and to the actual release latch. I suspect the linkage simply isn't connected. Not a big deal, take it back to the body shop. They should be able to pop off the interior door panel and reconnect the linkage in a few minutes.

 

The body shop is from the same dealer network where I am taking the car into tomorrow na d the dealer paid for the scratch repairs. I will have them fix it as it was "their" dealer group that did the work. Your reply makes me think something wasn't properly put back together, makes me feel better. I will update after I find out for sure. Thanks.

 

Oh I know yours is as i was really debating ordering one from you but i figured i could do it myself. I just haven't had the time or a warm place to cut the MDF to the correct size, or for that matter a I need to get a new blade for my jig saw as I really don't want to have to use my Dremel on the whole process.

 

So I went back to the bodyshop this afternoon and they got it open and working again. Apparenty the tech somehow crossed the linkage rods and caused them to bind up. Long story short, its fixed at no cost to me and I am a happy Maxima man again!

 

i could see how that could have happened


they didn't label the linkages before removal

 

does any one know what the solution is to the left hand driver side speaker and the sub woofer cut out???

I have a 2001 Maxima SE 20th AE

 

I bought a Clarion vx400 and am looking for a solution for the parking break bypass. I know on my unit I cannot just ground the wire for it to work. Do you guys know if the PAC TR7 does what it says it will? As i read more and more about it, it seems as though people are just using it for alpine head units. So does anyone have experience with this and a Clarion? Thanks.

 

Loose connection in the head unit. SOME people that are electronically inclined are able to open it up and repair the connection.

MOST people take it as a sign and replace the head unit with something aftermarket, it will make your system sound much better anyway.

 

A quick google search for 'vx400 bypass' comes up with a bypass module that's available for ~$25. Keep searching, I'm sure you'll find some more information about it.

Usually the bypasses are a combination of a momentary interrupter switch and a relay, whatever clever combination of +/- voltage signals the engineers at Clarion devised.

 

True. Yeah i ended up buying the module off of ebay. Said it was guaranteed to work and if not there is a 7 day return policy so its basically a win win. I feel kind of dumb because before i posted on the org, I searched all types of parking break bypasses but didnt search it specific for the vx400...

 

Lol, it happens. Best of luck. If you were local I'd have helped you out with the install.

But I do know someone who I *think* is in your area that definitely knows his stuff. He can help out if you need it, PM me if you want their user name here on the org.

 

I actually just hooked up the double din inside the max with the scosche harness (quite a bit of crimping with no rca's...) so now im just waiting for the module to come in. I actually just got a mono channel amp that I am looking to get hooked up, but I am still lost with the whole SVC DVC, series parallel hook ups and what not.

 

Here you go, this will help tremendously.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-8ibImFZ...rs_wiring.html

 

Ok, so after reading on here for a while I figured that my ICV is the problem - stalling at red lights, low idle. Yesterday I took the valve out and cleaned it, along with the MAF and throttle body (very dirty). I drove it to work again today and it is still stalling. I guess I need to bite the bullet and buy a new ICV. Before I order it, does anyone disagree? Is this the right move? Thanks!

 

You need to perform the idle relearn procedure first. That is what fixed the issue for me. Information here: http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...00-2001-a.html

 

It's behaving exactly the way it did before I cleaned everything. Are you sure this will help?

 

The idle must be relearned now that you have cleaned the IAC, without relearning the idle you won't know if the IAC is bad or not, or if it was just dirty. If you took it to a dealer, they would do this same process as a first attempt.

The process takes 2 mins to complete. Be sure to follow it precisely. I had the same issues, and combined with TB/IAC cleaning, all my issues are gone.

It is also free, before you shell out a couple hundred, try it.

 

Thanks for the advice. I'll try that tonight. Much better than $200 and pulling all that stuff out of my car again. I hope it works.

 

First off thank for this noob section as i really need your help.

Ok i have an 01 Maxima GXE 5 speed with the 3.0. I just got it the other day and it drove perfect during the test drive and on the way home. The next day i took my friend for a ride to show him how fast it was. It drove awesome yet again. But the day after that i went to go somewhere and it doest have any power. It literally will not rev past 3k rpm's. In nuetral it revs good but not great. When driving it falls flat on its face. I took it Advance Auto parts and had the codes checked. There where none. I replaced the fuel pump and filter and no change at all. What could cause it to go from good to bad overnight?

 

Possibly a bad MAF sensor.

 

I would have to agree with VQPOWER's statement with regards to the MAF failure you are describing it to a T, lose of power and the car will not rev up pass 3000rpm ... there is no specific code for the MAF sensor just the symptoms that you have described

 

Ok so I bought an amp and sub that I am about to install including a Bypass module for my double din receiver. (am still going to be using bose speakers) Ok so from the deck there is a solid blue wire that is the "antenna power" and a blue wire w/ white stripe that is the Amp on. Right now both are connected to the harness for the bose speakers. The module says I have to connect the amp on directly to it but the amp that i am going to install also is requiring the use of the "power antenna amp turn on." This has me super confused as to what to connect to the amp on wire. Would I have to just connect amp to the amp on and tap into that connection with the module for the double din??? Anything would help. Thanks!

 

PM me your phone #, I'll call you to explain.

 

Hi folks! I recently got a service engine soon code p0340 for the camshaft postion sensor.. '02 maxima. i've been doing some research and i'm getting mixed info on the location of this sensor. to my understanding this sensor is on the passenger side.. or is it the one under the air intake to the rear on the drivers side? thanks in advance for your help.

 

Ok so I tried to search for it but it did not work out. How do I do the avatar? When I go to user CP, i click edit avatar, where do i paste avatar info or upload one?

 

Two options - post it to an image sharing service like Photobucket, and put the URL into the http link. OR, upload from your PC - has to be no larger than 39k and 150x150 pixels.

 

I'm on here posting for a friend. I'm an active member on ClubTitan.org. I love using forums to find information. Just from what I've read so far, there are alot of smart people on here so I'm hoping to get some help. My buddy drives an 03 Maxima and while in the drive thru last night his car stopped responding. Hit the gas and it wouldnt move, it would just bog down a little. He put it in neutral, pushed it out of the drive thru into a parking spot (talk about embarrassing) shut the car off, and called me. Once I got there we tried to start the car back up, but it was acting as though the battery was dead. I jumped the car, let it run for a few minutes then we tried to move it. While in gear (drive or reverse) the car just bogs and almost dies. It revs fine in neutral. But while trying to move the car into a better spot for AAA, the car shut off again and had a dead battery. Battery is only two years old. My first thought was alternator. Any ideas? I've been searching the forum and haven't been able to find anything. Is there a way to check the code without a scanner on these cars? Thanks in advance for the help. Look forward to hearing back from you guys.

 

::EDIT ON LAST POST:: I found the thread that says 5th gen needs an OBD scanner from autozone. I'll have him run the codes and see if we can come up with anything.

 

Hard to tell from the symptoms you describe - it could be battery, alternator, MAF? Have Autozone check the charging system, they should be able to tell you right away if it's OK or not.

 

Thats what I wanted to do, but since it wont drive I can't get it there. I'm trying to think of another way to test it. Any ideas? I'm thinking once we test it with the OBD maybe if it says something electrical it will narrow it down some. I guess thats the next step before anything else