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5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread

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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 11:04 AM
  #12161  
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Well the only thing the OBDII scanner is going to do is read your stored codes if your SES light is on. Usually the codes are relevant to mechanical related issues, like a misfire, exhaust, MAF, etc. I don't believe there are any P0xxx codes for charging system issues.
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 11:12 AM
  #12162  
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Hmmm...Ok. I was unaware of that. Thanks for the info. Ill keep you updated
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 11:22 AM
  #12163  
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Sounds good.

Just did a quick google search for "p0 codes" - nothing in the standard lists about battery/alternator.

Heres a quick key to deciphering codes.

http://www.kbmsystems.net/obd_fault_codes_ref.htm
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 02:03 PM
  #12164  
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Hey thanks for all the help. Im bookmarking that link for future reference. Turns out its the alternator. Now time to price around and see what we can get.
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 02:21 PM
  #12165  
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Lowest price I've seen around here for a reman with a good warranty is about $140-$160.

Good luck!
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 03:38 PM
  #12166  
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Hello.
I'm new to the forums, purchased a 2001 maxima, manual, love it.
Problem is, the high pressure hose for the power steering is leaking slightly where the connection between rubber and metal is. So, went to the dealer, they will sell me one for $195.

Well, advanced auto parts selling it for $165.
So, is there a difference, does anyone have any experience with aftermarket high pressure hoses? Which one should i go for? Is the price premium worth it for the OEM part?

Second, O2 sensor after the CAT has failed. P0140 code..
Anyway, should i get the OEM one for $130 or bosh universal for $50?
Any input is appreciated.
Thanks.
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 03:42 PM
  #12167  
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Originally Posted by L36
Hello.
I'm new to the forums, purchased a 2001 maxima, manual, love it.
Problem is, the high pressure hose for the power steering is leaking slightly where the connection between rubber and metal is. So, went to the dealer, they will sell me one for $195.

Well, advanced auto parts selling it for $165.
So, is there a difference, does anyone have any experience with aftermarket high pressure hoses? Which one should i go for? Is the price premium worth it for the OEM part?
If you're going to go OEM, at least go with Courtesy, if not Dave B: http://www.courtesyparts.com/49720-h...957_2061_2069&

Originally Posted by L36
Second, O2 sensor after the CAT has failed. P0140 code..
Anyway, should i get the OEM one for $130 or bosh universal for $50?
Any input is appreciated.
Thanks.
I'd go with an OE replacement, but not an OEM sensor. I wouldn't touch a universal for a replacement, but that's just me.
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 04:07 PM
  #12168  
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Another question.
The airbag light is always on, what can that indicate?
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 04:09 PM
  #12169  
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Originally Posted by L36
Another question.
The airbag light is always on, what can that indicate?
That there is a problem with your SRS system, and your airbags will not deploy if you get in an accident.

Might want to pull the codes or have it checked out, but that's up to you.
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 04:13 PM
  #12170  
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Originally Posted by pmohr
That there is a problem with your SRS system, and your airbags will not deploy if you get in an accident.

Might want to pull the codes or have it checked out, but that's up to you.
The thing is that there are no other codes beside P0140...
Is there a switch somewhere to disable airbags? Maybe i should check the fuses...

PS: This is the sensor id need for my P0140 code, right? Link
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 04:16 PM
  #12171  
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Originally Posted by L36
The thing is that there are no other codes beside P0140...
Is there a switch somewhere to disable airbags? Maybe i should check the fuses...

PS: This is the sensor id need for my P0140 code, right? Link
What did you use to pull codes, a scanner or a code reader? If a scanner, does it have SRS capabilities?

You're speaking of engine codes, the SRS system is entirely different. If the light is on, there's a code stored (or was). No, there's no switch.

Again, why go with an OEM part? That's quite an expense, you can likely find OE style aftermarket parts for well under that price. But yes, that's the correct part.
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 04:24 PM
  #12172  
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Originally Posted by pmohr
What did you use to pull codes, a scanner or a code reader? If a scanner, does it have SRS capabilities?

You're speaking of engine codes, the SRS system is entirely different. If the light is on, there's a code stored (or was). No, there's no switch.

Again, why go with an OEM part? That's quite an expense, you can likely find OE style aftermarket parts for well under that price. But yes, that's the correct part.
Oh, no my scanner has no SRS capabilities.
Guess il have to pay a visit to my dealer to get this checked.
Thanks.
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 04:27 PM
  #12173  
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Originally Posted by L36
Oh, no my scanner has no SRS capabilities.
Guess il have to pay a visit to my dealer to get this checked.
Thanks.
You can pull the codes yourself, or most any shop that does more than just oil changes should be able to read them as well. The ability to read SRS codes(especially on an older car like this) is commonplace.
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 04:50 PM
  #12174  
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Originally Posted by pmohr
You can pull the codes yourself, or most any shop that does more than just oil changes should be able to read them as well. The ability to read SRS codes(especially on an older car like this) is commonplace.
Last question.
Ive heard that the dealers cover any SRS related issues.
Is this true?
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 09:58 PM
  #12175  
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New to the forums etc etc etc.

Here goes it
5.5 gen
The front rotors on the car are currently warped pretty bad and like with most car enthusiasts I would prefer to upgrade. Not sure on the conditions of the pads but they will also be replaced.
What seems to be the most popular upgrade is installing the 6th gen brakes up front (not sure about the rear) and then your done. However I am not really in a position to accomplish this.

Im currently looking at aftermarket rotors that are slotted with stock calipers and either metallic or ceramic pads. I would also like to get some SS braided lines too.

Is the 6th gen kit better or would better rotors, pads and lines work better?
A case of which is best I guess.
By the way all four corners will be replaced not just the front.

Last edited by Luigi Martini; Jan 5, 2011 at 10:03 PM.
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 10:40 PM
  #12176  
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Originally Posted by djfrestyl
Two options - post it to an image sharing service like Photobucket, and put the URL into the http link. OR, upload from your PC - has to be no larger than 39k and 150x150 pixels.
i did all that already but when I go to edit avatar, where do I put it? theres nowhere for me to insert the code or upload to here
Old Jan 6, 2011 | 04:51 AM
  #12177  
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need help

can i change the back right side light by myself? i busted it the other day running into the mail box. is it expensive or do i have to take it to dealer.

also can a 7in dvd double din player been installed?
Old Jan 6, 2011 | 05:24 AM
  #12178  
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Originally Posted by BoDenKai
i did all that already but when I go to edit avatar, where do I put it? theres nowhere for me to insert the code or upload to here
The option is right there for me. Maybe you don't have it yet because you're new?

Originally Posted by dm1866
can i change the back right side light by myself? i busted it the other day running into the mail box. is it expensive or do i have to take it to dealer.

also can a 7in dvd double din player been installed?
You can do it yourself.

Yes, it can.
Old Jan 6, 2011 | 09:42 AM
  #12179  
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Hello.
How often do you guys recommend replacing the water pump?
How much does it cost on average?
Thanks.
Old Jan 6, 2011 | 11:21 AM
  #12180  
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Originally Posted by L36
Hello.
How often do you guys recommend replacing the water pump?
How much does it cost on average?
Thanks.
The water pump is chain driven, so it almost a maintenance free item. But, if the pump is leaking, it might mean it's on it's way out. But even then, it wont catastrophically fail (unlike belt driven systems). IMO, they're designed to last the life of the car.

Originally Posted by L36
Last question.
Ive heard that the dealers cover any SRS related issues.
Is this true?


I want to think that is true, obviously if it hasn't been tampered with. But even if it's not true, the SRS system most likely carries a very long 'warranty'.
Old Jan 7, 2011 | 10:46 AM
  #12181  
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Originally Posted by Luigi Martini
New to the forums etc etc etc.

Here goes it
5.5 gen
The front rotors on the car are currently warped pretty bad and like with most car enthusiasts I would prefer to upgrade. Not sure on the conditions of the pads but they will also be replaced.
What seems to be the most popular upgrade is installing the 6th gen brakes up front (not sure about the rear) and then your done. However I am not really in a position to accomplish this.

Im currently looking at aftermarket rotors that are slotted with stock calipers and either metallic or ceramic pads. I would also like to get some SS braided lines too.

Is the 6th gen kit better or would better rotors, pads and lines work better?
A case of which is best I guess.
By the way all four corners will be replaced not just the front.
The 6th gen kit will be better, but it won't work with most of the stock 17" wheels, nor will it work with the spare that comes with a Gen5. If you get a flat up front you'd need to put the spare on the back and move the good wheel up front.

The other way you want to go will help, but not as much. Many of the better pads are pretty noisy as well, which some people really hate.
Old Jan 7, 2011 | 01:06 PM
  #12182  
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Originally Posted by 4dscmax02
Hi folks! I recently got a service engine soon code p0340 for the camshaft postion sensor.. '02 maxima. i've been doing some research and i'm getting mixed info on the location of this sensor. to my understanding this sensor is on the passenger side.. or is it the one under the air intake to the rear on the drivers side? thanks in advance for your help.
Driver side. Just below each valve cover. One for each bank... (edit: thanks, Brett.)

There was a TSB back around 2004 for dealers to replace the CPS because of a faulty design in the production parts. If yours are original, it's possible you got one of the bad ones. Then again, 9 years is a good run, eh?

Here, you might find this entertaining and/or informative:

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...y-5th-gen.html


Last edited by Rochester; Jan 8, 2011 at 11:43 AM.
Old Jan 7, 2011 | 11:21 PM
  #12183  
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Originally Posted by Rochester
Driver side. Just below each valve cover. One for each bank... since you have 4 cams and two cylinder banks.
Fixed.
Old Jan 8, 2011 | 05:51 AM
  #12184  
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Hello.
Will the oil pan from a 4th gen maxima fit a 5th gen maxima?
My oil pan is somewhat bent and it might choke the oil pump and my gasket leaks, so going to solve 2 problems at once.
Thanks.
Old Jan 8, 2011 | 07:31 AM
  #12185  
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Originally Posted by Mr. Brett
Fixed.
What? OMG. I need to start posting more newbie questions.

If I put everything I know up against everything I don't know... LOL
Old Jan 8, 2011 | 08:14 AM
  #12186  
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New member here. If all goes well I hope to be picking up an 02 Maxima from the local Honda dealership. Clean car, test drove it last night. Just introducing myself, because I'll probably have some questions lol.

Thanks,

-Will
Old Jan 8, 2011 | 08:48 AM
  #12187  
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Originally Posted by L36
Hello.
Will the oil pan from a 4th gen maxima fit a 5th gen maxima?
My oil pan is somewhat bent and it might choke the oil pump and my gasket leaks, so going to solve 2 problems at once.
Thanks.
They should be interswapable. Question is...why? Do you just happen to have a spare 4th gen oil pan laying around?
Old Jan 8, 2011 | 10:17 AM
  #12188  
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So I am going to install an amp to my double din within the next couple of days. I know how to hook it up its just I am unsure of how to get through the firewall. I know there is a grommet that leads above the wheel well. There are a lot of posts on it but they all have dead pics on them. Any help?
Old Jan 8, 2011 | 11:42 AM
  #12189  
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Battery or alternator

I searched and couldnt find the answer, I was driving last night and i noticed my lights on the inside were going dim (speedometer, dash lights) and it also looked like my headlights were dimming too and a few minutes later while i was driving all the lights like the brake light, air bag light, tcs light all popped on, and all of my door speakers stopped working all i could hear were my subs in the back, i parked the car and it wouldnt crank back up but i left it sitting and it started back up, could anyone tell me what caused this?
any help is appreciated thanks

i have an 01 ae btw

oh yea one more thing everytime i turn my car off it makes a noise like 4 or 5 times and when i turned it off last night it still made the noise but it was realll slow

Last edited by SEMaxima2000; Jan 8, 2011 at 11:56 AM.
Old Jan 8, 2011 | 12:03 PM
  #12190  
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Originally Posted by SEMaxima2000
I searched and couldnt find the answer, I was driving last night and i noticed my lights on the inside were going dim (speedometer, dash lights) and it also looked like my headlights were dimming too and a few minutes later while i was driving all the lights like the brake light, air bag light, tcs light all popped on, and all of my door speakers stopped working all i could hear were my subs in the back, i parked the car and it wouldnt crank back up but i left it sitting and it started back up, could anyone tell me what caused this?
any help is appreciated thanks

i have an 01 ae btw

oh yea one more thing everytime i turn my car off it makes a noise like 4 or 5 times and when i turned it off last night it still made the noise but it was realll slow
Alternator or dying battery, or both. Go to any auto chain store and they can do a check on your charging system for free.
Old Jan 8, 2011 | 02:12 PM
  #12191  
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Originally Posted by djshwini
So I am going to install an amp to my double din within the next couple of days. I know how to hook it up its just I am unsure of how to get through the firewall. I know there is a grommet that leads above the wheel well. There are a lot of posts on it but they all have dead pics on them. Any help?
An alternative is to remove the door sill trim, including in the foot wells on the driver side, run the wire through the fender to where it comes out by the door, drill a hole through the a-pillar at the very bottom near the footwell (just make sure you're drilling an area with no wires running!) and thread the wire through there.

Did that on my last car. Worked just fine.
Old Jan 9, 2011 | 08:03 AM
  #12192  
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For autos, I typically drill the empty panel where the clutch cylinder would be and run it through there.
Old Jan 9, 2011 | 08:26 AM
  #12193  
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Originally Posted by djfrestyl
For autos, I typically drill the empty panel where the clutch cylinder would be and run it through there.
I agree, and that's what I did when I ran mine. I deburred the hole and sealed it with silicon.
Old Jan 9, 2011 | 02:48 PM
  #12194  
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Hi Guys I need to know if a 5gen maxima's half-shaft rod (Connecting the wheel side joint and the Diff Side) are the same length for both left and right side. Thanks Guyz
Old Jan 9, 2011 | 02:56 PM
  #12195  
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Hello.
Does anyone on these forums have any experience with clifford alarms? I bough the car that was fitted with clifford, the previous owner did not include any clifford related items, manuals or information.

I recently disconnected the battery, now the alarm basically chirps 4 times randomly when the car doors are unlocked, or the car is running under 40 miles an hour or so. Is finding a clifford dealer my only hope?
Old Jan 9, 2011 | 03:13 PM
  #12196  
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Originally Posted by L36
Hello.
Does anyone on these forums have any experience with clifford alarms? I bough the car that was fitted with clifford, the previous owner did not include any clifford related items, manuals or information.

I recently disconnected the battery, now the alarm basically chirps 4 times randomly when the car doors are unlocked, or the car is running under 40 miles an hour or so. Is finding a clifford dealer my only hope?
Crawl up under the drivers side foot area. Look up and see where they mounted the alarm brain. It will be a black looking box. Typically they zip tie it to the main wiring harness. There should be a label on it with the model #. If you can get that, then you should be able to download the manual.
Old Jan 9, 2011 | 03:31 PM
  #12197  
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L36
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Originally Posted by VQP0WER
Crawl up under the drivers side foot area. Look up and see where they mounted the alarm brain. It will be a black looking box. Typically they zip tie it to the main wiring harness. There should be a label on it with the model #. If you can get that, then you should be able to download the manual.
Just looked under the car, its a viper alarm....
No model number in sight, il look more tomorrow when i have the time and when its not dark...
Old Jan 9, 2011 | 06:49 PM
  #12198  
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whats going on. im having an issue, i have a 2001 nissan maxima se 20th anni, it has all original parts under the hood, motor is completely stock came with 56k now has 58k, bought it like 2months ago out of a dealership. now since ive had the car every things been fine, runs great, but recently ive been noticing the head has some sort of clicking, feels like to me it could be the valves that need adjusting but im new the the nissan game so i no nothing on how to deal with this issue and how much it will cost me, how long do i have till it goes out on me and will i need to also do a timing chain aswell? now i am currently using mobile 1 fully synthetic motor oil just did an oil change yesterday ( is there any possible way it could be the oil i am using? ) and nothings changed but its been tiking for about 1 month and half, now if any body can please help me with this issue i will be very great full l and thanks in advance.

Last edited by prprinceagd; Jan 9, 2011 at 07:10 PM.
Old Jan 10, 2011 | 06:42 AM
  #12199  
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I have an unusual issue which has not disabled my 2002 Maxima, but has me wondering. On a recent trip into a city, there was a flashing of two dash lights, one on the left, and one on the right. It was so brief I don't know what they were. I left it at a garage for two days. They checked the alternator and did other voltage tests three different times over the 2 day span and it always tested fine. They suggested a new belt and I had it installed.

On the return trip, while leaving the city, at around the same region on a dual lane highway, the warning lights again flicked on briefly. They never came on again for the rest of the 100+ KM journey, nor in subsequent days. When the lights briefly appear, it has no effect on the operation of
the car. The check engine light is not lit afterward.

This is going to sound strange, but it is the only theory I can come up with. I suspect there is a strong source of radio or similar energy in that highway location which causes a problem in some borderline electronic part. The stereo is stock original and I don't have anything extra patched into the car like a CB radio.

Anyone ever see two dash lights flick on and off like this while driving?
Old Jan 10, 2011 | 12:42 PM
  #12200  
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Originally Posted by labradort
I have an unusual issue which has not disabled my 2002 Maxima, but has me wondering. On a recent trip into a city, there was a flashing of two dash lights, one on the left, and one on the right. It was so brief I don't know what they were. I left it at a garage for two days. They checked the alternator and did other voltage tests three different times over the 2 day span and it always tested fine. They suggested a new belt and I had it installed.

On the return trip, while leaving the city, at around the same region on a dual lane highway, the warning lights again flicked on briefly. They never came on again for the rest of the 100+ KM journey, nor in subsequent days. When the lights briefly appear, it has no effect on the operation of
the car. The check engine light is not lit afterward.

This is going to sound strange, but it is the only theory I can come up with. I suspect there is a strong source of radio or similar energy in that highway location which causes a problem in some borderline electronic part. The stereo is stock original and I don't have anything extra patched into the car like a CB radio.

Anyone ever see two dash lights flick on and off like this while driving?
This is not going to help but i have only seen it happen a couple times on the X-Files. So juts be glad that you where not abducted.



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