5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
Hi I have a 2000 Maxima GLE , of coarse it used so i bought a key fob fot it on ebay (oval shaped one) and did the programing the hazards flash after insterting the key but when the buttons are pressed on the key fob nothing happens. Also i noticed that if you press the lock button twice on the drivers door the car starts itself runs. I DESPERATLY need some help guys.
The door lock starting the car sounds like there is an after-market alarm/starter system installed. Check into this as after marked alarms disable the factory alarm. Find out the brand and model and get the keyfob for that.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 2
The FCC ID # for the 2000 Nissan Maxima key fob is: NHVWBU43. Is this the FCC ID on the key fob you bought?
The door lock starting the car sounds like there is an after-market alarm/starter system installed. Check into this as after marked alarms disable the factory alarm. Find out the brand and model and get the keyfob for that.
The door lock starting the car sounds like there is an after-market alarm/starter system installed. Check into this as after marked alarms disable the factory alarm. Find out the brand and model and get the keyfob for that.
Get one with the proper FCC ID and you'll be
OR answer this:
The door lock starting the car sounds like there is an after-market alarm/starter system installed. Check into this as after marked alarms disable the factory alarm. Find out the brand and model and get the keyfob for that.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 10
From: North Jersey
New Member with Maxima Issues
Hello All,
I've been wanting to join this forum for some time now, and I've finally done so! I purchased my 2001 GLE at auction on May 2011. I've been using it for all of my transportation since. The car, although has some good points, has a slew of problems, but I guess that's the risk when you buy at auctions. I bought it with almost 168,000 miles and I'm just touching the 200,000 mark. When I first drove it, after all the paperwork was done, the check engine light goes on. It's been on ever since. I changed an O2 sensor, the gas cap, but that didn't repair the problem. Shortly after purchase, upon putting the car on the lift, the majority of the bottom was rusted out, literally.
The floor of the car is left to rotting metal. So much so that you can touch the driver and passenger side carpets just by placing your hand underneath the car. They flap with the windows down
. I changed the front struts at the end of last year since they were completely shot. As of the beginning of winter, the serpentine belt squeals loudly on every cold start , up to a minute or more sometimes. I've noticed it's considerably loud in the cabin, and it seems there's some sort of exhaust leak toward the front of the car. I've also changed the control arms about 3 times on this car, once from an accident that was my fault, and the other two were wear and tear (a completely worn bushing, that was new on the car the previous year when I needed to change both of them) I was surprised that this particular control arm lasted less than a year. I heard that this problem is common for Nissan's. I don't know if it's me, but I've also noticed that the car uses a lot of fuel. I think it should get much better fuel mileage due to the way I drive. It may not be burning properly.
Most importantly, this car has worrisome transmission problems. It's an automatic, so sometimes it doesn't' go from second to third, or from third to fourth. This is particularly common on hot days, or when the weather gets warmer in general (i.e. begging of spring or summer on an above average temperature day). It also doesn't shift if really abused, meaning driving in a bad mood and flooring it from every stop
I was told that the transmission fluid should be changed, but that would either repair the problem, or destroy the transmission completely. In order to get it into the next gear, it's sometimes necessary to force it, (floor it) so it revs high, forcefully selecting the next gear. I've noticed it also takes a while to shift normally.
I know this is a long message, and I apologize for that, but I'm desperate at this point. I hope this car continues to hold out. I was told buy a mechanin that the rust was probably due to the car sitting for a long time, unused, and it was a Massachusetts car, which was affected by snow and salt. If I was able to just get a better look at the car, I wouldn't have thought twice about leaving it, but being at auction, you don't really have that choice. I was also desperate for a car back then. I used to drive an Acura Legend before. Sometimes, I miss having it. This car, being the GLE model, should be more comfortable and soft than the SE. The car's ride is sometimes unbearable too, as the suspension feels to hard and unforgiving. You feel every bump in the road. Even after replacing the front struts, it's still too hard. The car looks in good condition from looking at the body, but you'd never guess what is wrong with it. The main problems are suspension, transmission and fuel mileage, check engine light, and whatever else I mentioned. I want to thank any and all in advance who respond the this message. I appreciate any help, or advise that you give. Thank you!
-Omar522
I've been wanting to join this forum for some time now, and I've finally done so! I purchased my 2001 GLE at auction on May 2011. I've been using it for all of my transportation since. The car, although has some good points, has a slew of problems, but I guess that's the risk when you buy at auctions. I bought it with almost 168,000 miles and I'm just touching the 200,000 mark. When I first drove it, after all the paperwork was done, the check engine light goes on. It's been on ever since. I changed an O2 sensor, the gas cap, but that didn't repair the problem. Shortly after purchase, upon putting the car on the lift, the majority of the bottom was rusted out, literally.
The floor of the car is left to rotting metal. So much so that you can touch the driver and passenger side carpets just by placing your hand underneath the car. They flap with the windows down
. I changed the front struts at the end of last year since they were completely shot. As of the beginning of winter, the serpentine belt squeals loudly on every cold start , up to a minute or more sometimes. I've noticed it's considerably loud in the cabin, and it seems there's some sort of exhaust leak toward the front of the car. I've also changed the control arms about 3 times on this car, once from an accident that was my fault, and the other two were wear and tear (a completely worn bushing, that was new on the car the previous year when I needed to change both of them) I was surprised that this particular control arm lasted less than a year. I heard that this problem is common for Nissan's. I don't know if it's me, but I've also noticed that the car uses a lot of fuel. I think it should get much better fuel mileage due to the way I drive. It may not be burning properly. Most importantly, this car has worrisome transmission problems. It's an automatic, so sometimes it doesn't' go from second to third, or from third to fourth. This is particularly common on hot days, or when the weather gets warmer in general (i.e. begging of spring or summer on an above average temperature day). It also doesn't shift if really abused, meaning driving in a bad mood and flooring it from every stop
I was told that the transmission fluid should be changed, but that would either repair the problem, or destroy the transmission completely. In order to get it into the next gear, it's sometimes necessary to force it, (floor it) so it revs high, forcefully selecting the next gear. I've noticed it also takes a while to shift normally. I know this is a long message, and I apologize for that, but I'm desperate at this point. I hope this car continues to hold out. I was told buy a mechanin that the rust was probably due to the car sitting for a long time, unused, and it was a Massachusetts car, which was affected by snow and salt. If I was able to just get a better look at the car, I wouldn't have thought twice about leaving it, but being at auction, you don't really have that choice. I was also desperate for a car back then. I used to drive an Acura Legend before. Sometimes, I miss having it. This car, being the GLE model, should be more comfortable and soft than the SE. The car's ride is sometimes unbearable too, as the suspension feels to hard and unforgiving. You feel every bump in the road. Even after replacing the front struts, it's still too hard. The car looks in good condition from looking at the body, but you'd never guess what is wrong with it. The main problems are suspension, transmission and fuel mileage, check engine light, and whatever else I mentioned. I want to thank any and all in advance who respond the this message. I appreciate any help, or advise that you give. Thank you!
-Omar522
Hello All,
I've been wanting to join this forum for some time now, and I've finally done so! I purchased my 2001 GLE at auction on May 2011. I've been using it for all of my transportation since. The car, although has some good points, has a slew of problems, but I guess that's the risk when you buy at auctions. I bought it with almost 168,000 miles and I'm just touching the 200,000 mark. When I first drove it, after all the paperwork was done, the check engine light goes on. It's been on ever since. I changed an O2 sensor, the gas cap, but that didn't repair the problem. Shortly after purchase, upon putting the car on the lift, the majority of the bottom was rusted out, literally.
(text clipped)
I appreciate any help, or advise that you give. Thank you!
-Omar522
I've been wanting to join this forum for some time now, and I've finally done so! I purchased my 2001 GLE at auction on May 2011. I've been using it for all of my transportation since. The car, although has some good points, has a slew of problems, but I guess that's the risk when you buy at auctions. I bought it with almost 168,000 miles and I'm just touching the 200,000 mark. When I first drove it, after all the paperwork was done, the check engine light goes on. It's been on ever since. I changed an O2 sensor, the gas cap, but that didn't repair the problem. Shortly after purchase, upon putting the car on the lift, the majority of the bottom was rusted out, literally.
(text clipped)
I appreciate any help, or advise that you give. Thank you!
-Omar522
Your check engine light is on - what are the codes? Solving this might improve your gas mileage complaint, but you have not told us what the gas mileage is. And have you ever changed the spark plugs?
Changing the control arms so frequently is not a good thing as you know. It is not normal to have to replace these frequently as some much less than informed person has told you. How do the tires wear? Is the wear abnormal? Could the car have been in a bad accident and have frame damage? If the right side needs replacement more frequently, that could be from the power steering leaking and rotting the bushings. Also we have learned the hard way that the cheap, made in China E-bay parts don't last long.
You say the car's ride is harsh. That is suspension problems and it may somehow be related with the control arm problem. You probably need to take the car to a collision frame shop and have them check it out. They have equipment that other places don't have.
The transmission - I am far from an automatic transmission expert. When you say that Nissan does not have a good something, the automatic transmission definitely falls into that category. If you are a pedal to the metal driver, you will be familiar with transmission replacement. Don't ask why I say this. But the check engine lights could have codes for the auto transmission. Or you could run the self diagnostic on the auto trans and see what that tells you. Or maybe the shift solenoid pack in the transmission needs to be replaced.
So focus on one thing, do some diagnostics and let us know.
2002 SE 6MT Flashing CEL
Was driving to school today when I noticed quite a rough idle; enough to noticeably vibrate my seat. A couple minutes later I got a CEL that would flash a few times and disappear for a couple minutes just to return and flash again. About 6 hours later while driving back home I got a solid CEL until I came to a stop and idled, when it would start flashing. As soon as I drove again it would turn solid. Picked up an OBD2 reader and pulled 4 codes: 2 counts of P0300(Random Misfire) and 2 counts of P0021(Intake Camshaft Position Timing - Over-Advanced(Bank 2)). I'm only 17yo and this is the first time I've had a problem with the car so I'm very new to this. Can anyone suggest a fix? Is this something I could do with some guidance or best left to a mechanic? Thanks.
Was driving to school today when I noticed quite a rough idle; enough to noticeably vibrate my seat. A couple minutes later I got a CEL that would flash a few times and disappear for a couple minutes just to return and flash again. About 6 hours later while driving back home I got a solid CEL until I came to a stop and idled, when it would start flashing. As soon as I drove again it would turn solid. Picked up an OBD2 reader and pulled 4 codes: 2 counts of P0300(Random Misfire) and 2 counts of P0021(Intake Camshaft Position Timing - Over-Advanced(Bank 2)). I'm only 17yo and this is the first time I've had a problem with the car so I'm very new to this. Can anyone suggest a fix? Is this something I could do with some guidance or best left to a mechanic? Thanks.
Last edited by Barbequber; Apr 4, 2013 at 11:19 PM.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 23
From: Bally, PA
check eng light
On my 2000 maxima my engine light has been on for a while for a bank 2 cat, (think i need the front cat?) but now its come on for a cyl 1 misfire. changed the cyl 1 coil pack and came back on right after. It somewhat hesitates and runs rough only when started from dead cold. runs fine when its warmed up. any suggestions?? thx
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 49
From: Atlanta, GA
On my 2000 maxima my engine light has been on for a while for a bank 2 cat, (think i need the front cat?) but now its come on for a cyl 1 misfire. changed the cyl 1 coil pack and came back on right after. It somewhat hesitates and runs rough only when started from dead cold. runs fine when its warmed up. any suggestions?? thx
did you replace the coil with and OEM coil or aftermarket? also, did you examine the plug in cyl 1 when you replaced the coil?
Last edited by NmexMAX; Apr 5, 2013 at 06:29 AM.
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 49
From: Atlanta, GA
might as well verify whether the replacement coil is good by swapping it with another cylinder's coil. iirc, the vq30 coils are different between the two banks, so you would just swap with #3 or #5. that should be a fairly quick test to help rule out the actual coil.
Member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 204
Finally got the max
I have finally got mine 5.5 max the issue with the car is that the fuel guage stays on full would the code p0462 mean anything specific also my high pressure power steering hose is leaking really badly anyone have a diy nad link for correct part thanks!
For the power steering hose, read this thread. It is not a true howto thread, it has some directions and photos.
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...hose-02-a.html
Member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 204
Thanks DennisMik i order the hose from rockauto despite the possibility of the whining noise ,i didnt order the fuel sending unit because im not sure if that is the reason i would get that code.Is it a 90 percent chance that its the sending unit?
Personally, I would not play the odds and automatically buy a part that costs more than $5. I would diagnose the problem and be certain. Easiest thing to do is get the FSM and run the diagnostic on the gauges. I am going to reference the 2002 FSM since you didn't say what year your car is. In the future, please tell us because there are differences in each year model of the car. But we're ok for this because the 2002 and 2003 are the same.
Download the Electrical section of the FSM from here and go to page 122 for the diagnostic. If the instrument cluster and the gauge is good, the gas gauge will indicate a half tank.
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2002/EL.pdf
Download the Fuel section of the FSM from here. The gas tank stuff starts on page 4. Do not remove the float unit when you have a full tank of gas. 3/4 tank would be ok but less is even better.
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2002/FE.pdf
To get to the sender unit, you remove the rear seat bottom cushion and then remove the access plate in the middle of the car. **CAUTION** The rubber hoses have pressurized fuel in them. Before you disconnect the hoses, start the car and then remove the fuse for the fuel pump (fuse # 29) so that the car "runs out of gas" and the engine dies. Some gas may still dribble out of the hoses, but at least it won't spray out.
When you get the float/filter/pump assembly out of the tank, you can test the float with an ohmmeter. On the float unit where the wire harness plugs in, measure across pins 2 and 5. In the wire harness, pin 5 is a black wire and pin 2 is a green wire. Do not have the wire harness plugged on for this test.
With the ohmmeter test leads on pins 2 and 5, move the float arm up and down. If the ohmmeter reading does not change, the float is bad.
Nissan part numbers - Float unit 25060-5Y700. O-ring 17342-01A00
Member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 204
i did the cluster test the fuel guage drop down to empty and fuel warning light is on .but when not in test mode and car is started normally it shoots back up pass full ,Now im wondering if its the cluster i found this http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...uge-issue.html
Last edited by IceBerg; Apr 7, 2013 at 08:13 AM. Reason: diagnostics
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 43
tranny vin codes?
was wondering if anyone possibly could either tell me or let me know about a link that explains all the vin codes. basically for 2000-2003 trying to find out what code is hlsd lsd and the standard open differential. searched a lot and only found one person saying the vlsd has a v in the tranaxel code thanks
i did the cluster test the fuel guage drop down to empty and fuel warning light is on .but when not in test mode and car is started normally it shoots back up pass full ,Now im wondering if its the cluster i found this http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...uge-issue.html
Be advised that when you change clusters, the odometer mileage will not be the same. Mileage is stored in a memory chip that is part of the cluster.
was wondering if anyone possibly could either tell me or let me know about a link that explains all the vin codes. basically for 2000-2003 trying to find out what code is hlsd lsd and the standard open differential. searched a lot and only found one person saying the vlsd has a v in the tranaxel code thanks
It would be nice if you would help us to answer you question by telling us what year and what kind of transmission, i.e., manual or auto.
Code:
manual trans model numbers year vlsd non-vlsd 2000 RS5F50V RS5F50A 2001 RS5F50V RS5F50A 2002 RS6F51H RS6F51A 2003 RS6F51H RS6F51A Automatic trans model numbers year vlsd non-vlsd 2000 RE4F04V RE4F04B 2001 RE4F04V RE4F04B 2002 RE4F04V RE4F04B 2003 RE4F04V RE4F04B
Last edited by NmexMAX; Apr 8, 2013 at 09:06 AM.
Member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 204
Thanks alot DennisMik really helpful,the needle stopped at a quarter tank i have come to the conclusion that it is a bad cluster due to your info ,other maxima owners and numerous threads on this topic.Also is there a way to get the mileage corrected?
However, if you are a proficient technician at printed circuit board repair, read this thread.
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...nt-2002-a.html
I'm thinkn about putting a set of I35 back seats into my 2001 GLE Maxima
I'm thinkn about putting a set of I35 back seats into my 2001 GLE Maxima, will they fit..can someone let me know
Thanks
Thanks
Member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 112
02 maxima Random misfire code after new engine
OK guys so I bought a 02' Maxima with a blown engine and commenced to replacing it with one that I acquired(thanks to a buddy). I'm having a few issues and wanted to post up and see if anyone had ideas.
So engine is in and we start it for the first start up, smokes like crazy and smells super rich. Misfire codes etc. We pulled the intake manifold off replaced the injectors and it stopped dumping fuel(I'm assuming one of the old injectors was stuck from old gas or something). Start it back up and has a crank sensor code, swap that out code goes away. Now it has a random misfire code, so I swapped all coils, has new-ish NGK plugs, swapped out all the variable timing solenoids, mass air, TB, cam sensors, cleaned out the gas tank, check the fuel pump, I mean everything. Happen to pull the crank sensor out and try to start it, and see that the flex plate is wobbling a little bit, guess we bent it when putting the transmission back in. Buy a new flex plate, and while waiting pull the engine to verify that the timing chain hasn't slipped. Pulled it all apart today and it looks like all the marks line up and there are no problems with the timing. In the next few days I will be putting it all back together with the new flex plate and HOPEFULLY that will cure the misfire. The reason I am posting is to get some feedback about any problems anyone else has had. So I've heard of ecus being fried from the electric motor mounts and this car obviously has one, and its destroyed.
What I'm wondering here is
A: Would the wobbling flex-plate cause timing issues that would manifest as a misfire?(previous experience with cars tells me yes, but my buddy was talking about how it should run off the cam sensors if there is a problem with the crank sensor)
B: Has anyone had to replace an ecu from the motor mount issue and if so could you provide some details on symptoms etc?
PS engine had a compression test done by me that tested 175 psi across all 6 cylinders so I know the compression is good and valves are not bent which reinforces the timing being fine.
Thanks to anyone for the help in advance and I look forward to being able to contribute whatever I can to the forums.
murph
So engine is in and we start it for the first start up, smokes like crazy and smells super rich. Misfire codes etc. We pulled the intake manifold off replaced the injectors and it stopped dumping fuel(I'm assuming one of the old injectors was stuck from old gas or something). Start it back up and has a crank sensor code, swap that out code goes away. Now it has a random misfire code, so I swapped all coils, has new-ish NGK plugs, swapped out all the variable timing solenoids, mass air, TB, cam sensors, cleaned out the gas tank, check the fuel pump, I mean everything. Happen to pull the crank sensor out and try to start it, and see that the flex plate is wobbling a little bit, guess we bent it when putting the transmission back in. Buy a new flex plate, and while waiting pull the engine to verify that the timing chain hasn't slipped. Pulled it all apart today and it looks like all the marks line up and there are no problems with the timing. In the next few days I will be putting it all back together with the new flex plate and HOPEFULLY that will cure the misfire. The reason I am posting is to get some feedback about any problems anyone else has had. So I've heard of ecus being fried from the electric motor mounts and this car obviously has one, and its destroyed.
What I'm wondering here is
A: Would the wobbling flex-plate cause timing issues that would manifest as a misfire?(previous experience with cars tells me yes, but my buddy was talking about how it should run off the cam sensors if there is a problem with the crank sensor)
B: Has anyone had to replace an ecu from the motor mount issue and if so could you provide some details on symptoms etc?
PS engine had a compression test done by me that tested 175 psi across all 6 cylinders so I know the compression is good and valves are not bent which reinforces the timing being fine.
Thanks to anyone for the help in advance and I look forward to being able to contribute whatever I can to the forums.
murph
OK guys so I bought a 02' Maxima with a blown engine and commenced to replacing it with one that I acquired(thanks to a buddy). I'm having a few issues and wanted to post up and see if anyone had ideas.
So engine is in and we start it for the first start up, smokes like crazy and smells super rich. Misfire codes etc. We pulled the intake manifold off replaced the injectors and it stopped dumping fuel(I'm assuming one of the old injectors was stuck from old gas or something). Start it back up and has a crank sensor code, swap that out code goes away. Now it has a random misfire code, so I swapped all coils, has new-ish NGK plugs, swapped out all the variable timing solenoids, mass air, TB, cam sensors, cleaned out the gas tank, check the fuel pump, I mean everything. Happen to pull the crank sensor out and try to start it, and see that the flex plate is wobbling a little bit, guess we bent it when putting the transmission back in. Buy a new flex plate, and while waiting pull the engine to verify that the timing chain hasn't slipped. Pulled it all apart today and it looks like all the marks line up and there are no problems with the timing. In the next few days I will be putting it all back together with the new flex plate and HOPEFULLY that will cure the misfire. The reason I am posting is to get some feedback about any problems anyone else has had. So I've heard of ecus being fried from the electric motor mounts and this car obviously has one, and its destroyed.
What I'm wondering here is
A: Would the wobbling flex-plate cause timing issues that would manifest as a misfire?(previous experience with cars tells me yes, but my buddy was talking about how it should run off the cam sensors if there is a problem with the crank sensor)
B: Has anyone had to replace an ecu from the motor mount issue and if so could you provide some details on symptoms etc?
PS engine had a compression test done by me that tested 175 psi across all 6 cylinders so I know the compression is good and valves are not bent which reinforces the timing being fine.
Thanks to anyone for the help in advance and I look forward to being able to contribute whatever I can to the forums.
murph
So engine is in and we start it for the first start up, smokes like crazy and smells super rich. Misfire codes etc. We pulled the intake manifold off replaced the injectors and it stopped dumping fuel(I'm assuming one of the old injectors was stuck from old gas or something). Start it back up and has a crank sensor code, swap that out code goes away. Now it has a random misfire code, so I swapped all coils, has new-ish NGK plugs, swapped out all the variable timing solenoids, mass air, TB, cam sensors, cleaned out the gas tank, check the fuel pump, I mean everything. Happen to pull the crank sensor out and try to start it, and see that the flex plate is wobbling a little bit, guess we bent it when putting the transmission back in. Buy a new flex plate, and while waiting pull the engine to verify that the timing chain hasn't slipped. Pulled it all apart today and it looks like all the marks line up and there are no problems with the timing. In the next few days I will be putting it all back together with the new flex plate and HOPEFULLY that will cure the misfire. The reason I am posting is to get some feedback about any problems anyone else has had. So I've heard of ecus being fried from the electric motor mounts and this car obviously has one, and its destroyed.
What I'm wondering here is
A: Would the wobbling flex-plate cause timing issues that would manifest as a misfire?(previous experience with cars tells me yes, but my buddy was talking about how it should run off the cam sensors if there is a problem with the crank sensor)
B: Has anyone had to replace an ecu from the motor mount issue and if so could you provide some details on symptoms etc?
PS engine had a compression test done by me that tested 175 psi across all 6 cylinders so I know the compression is good and valves are not bent which reinforces the timing being fine.
Thanks to anyone for the help in advance and I look forward to being able to contribute whatever I can to the forums.
murph
A bad/wobbling flex plate can easily cause a misfire issue. Since you have tested the compression to be good, and you already addressed the injectors; the next step would be to check if spark is given. If you still run into misfire issue after the new flex plate, see if all of your 6 cylinders throw a spark.
Remember, if you mix up the harness plugs say between cylinder 4 and 6, that will cause a misfire issue. Ensure that you plug all the right harness plugs to their corresponding cylinders.
Since you mentioned a possibility of a fried ECU due to electric motor mount that's blown, its possible but don't rule it out as the cause yet.
Last edited by NmexMAX; Apr 8, 2013 at 07:12 AM.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 81
From: Branford, CT
OK guys so I bought a 02' Maxima with a blown engine and commenced to replacing it with one that I acquired(thanks to a buddy). I'm having a few issues and wanted to post up and see if anyone had ideas.
So engine is in and we start it for the first start up, smokes like crazy and smells super rich. Misfire codes etc. We pulled the intake manifold off replaced the injectors and it stopped dumping fuel(I'm assuming one of the old injectors was stuck from old gas or something). Start it back up and has a crank sensor code, swap that out code goes away. Now it has a random misfire code, so I swapped all coils, has new-ish NGK plugs, swapped out all the variable timing solenoids, mass air, TB, cam sensors, cleaned out the gas tank, check the fuel pump, I mean everything. Happen to pull the crank sensor out and try to start it, and see that the flex plate is wobbling a little bit, guess we bent it when putting the transmission back in. Buy a new flex plate, and while waiting pull the engine to verify that the timing chain hasn't slipped. Pulled it all apart today and it looks like all the marks line up and there are no problems with the timing. In the next few days I will be putting it all back together with the new flex plate and HOPEFULLY that will cure the misfire. The reason I am posting is to get some feedback about any problems anyone else has had. So I've heard of ecus being fried from the electric motor mounts and this car obviously has one, and its destroyed.
What I'm wondering here is
A: Would the wobbling flex-plate cause timing issues that would manifest as a misfire?(previous experience with cars tells me yes, but my buddy was talking about how it should run off the cam sensors if there is a problem with the crank sensor)
B: Has anyone had to replace an ecu from the motor mount issue and if so could you provide some details on symptoms etc?
PS engine had a compression test done by me that tested 175 psi across all 6 cylinders so I know the compression is good and valves are not bent which reinforces the timing being fine.
Thanks to anyone for the help in advance and I look forward to being able to contribute whatever I can to the forums.
murph
So engine is in and we start it for the first start up, smokes like crazy and smells super rich. Misfire codes etc. We pulled the intake manifold off replaced the injectors and it stopped dumping fuel(I'm assuming one of the old injectors was stuck from old gas or something). Start it back up and has a crank sensor code, swap that out code goes away. Now it has a random misfire code, so I swapped all coils, has new-ish NGK plugs, swapped out all the variable timing solenoids, mass air, TB, cam sensors, cleaned out the gas tank, check the fuel pump, I mean everything. Happen to pull the crank sensor out and try to start it, and see that the flex plate is wobbling a little bit, guess we bent it when putting the transmission back in. Buy a new flex plate, and while waiting pull the engine to verify that the timing chain hasn't slipped. Pulled it all apart today and it looks like all the marks line up and there are no problems with the timing. In the next few days I will be putting it all back together with the new flex plate and HOPEFULLY that will cure the misfire. The reason I am posting is to get some feedback about any problems anyone else has had. So I've heard of ecus being fried from the electric motor mounts and this car obviously has one, and its destroyed.
What I'm wondering here is
A: Would the wobbling flex-plate cause timing issues that would manifest as a misfire?(previous experience with cars tells me yes, but my buddy was talking about how it should run off the cam sensors if there is a problem with the crank sensor)
B: Has anyone had to replace an ecu from the motor mount issue and if so could you provide some details on symptoms etc?
PS engine had a compression test done by me that tested 175 psi across all 6 cylinders so I know the compression is good and valves are not bent which reinforces the timing being fine.
Thanks to anyone for the help in advance and I look forward to being able to contribute whatever I can to the forums.
murph
I had to replace an IAC valve and TPS and thought "why am I bothering" the entire time...
Member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 112
. O and i'm poor, more knowledge than money. BTW no possible way the cop wiring harnesses are mixed up. Good call on checking spark, unless the ecu is bad I have spark because every single coil pack has been removed and replaced.
It would be nice if you would help us to answer you question by telling us what year and what kind of transmission, i.e., manual or auto.
Code:
manual trans model numbers year vlsd non-vlsd 2000 RS5F50V RS5F50A 2001 RS5F50V RS5F50A 2002 RS6F51H RS6F51A 2003 RS6F51H RS6F51A Automatic trans model numbers year vlsd non-vlsd 2000 RE4F04V RE4F04B 2001 RE4F04V RE4F04B 2002 RE4F04V RE4F04B 2003 RE4F04V RE4F04B
PLEASE HELP!!!! Starting issue
Ok so I was on my way home from work today. I was cruising along when I went to accelerate I felt horrible power loss, I tried it again and same thing. I then approached a stop light and the car died on me. I pushed into a parking lot and let it sit for 5 minutes then tried starting it. It slowly turned over. So I called my dad to give me a jump. We tried for about 10 minutes and finally she started up. But as soon as she started there was a loud ping then the engine stopped. I then took out the battery and took it to autozone where it tested bad. I bought a new one and installed in the car. When I tried to start the car it just stayed stuck. I kept trying and finally the starter started to smoke. So what I'm thinking is the starter is stuck engaged and won't turn over anymore. Or I just jumped timing an bent every intake valve. Had any one else had this issue, or are there any suggestions. I need help thanks
Ok so I was on my way home from work today. I was cruising along when I went to accelerate I felt horrible power loss, I tried it again and same thing. I then approached a stop light and the car died on me. I pushed into a parking lot and let it sit for 5 minutes then tried starting it. It slowly turned over. So I called my dad to give me a jump. We tried for about 10 minutes and finally she started up. But as soon as she started there was a loud ping then the engine stopped. I then took out the battery and took it to autozone where it tested bad. I bought a new one and installed in the car. When I tried to start the car it just stayed stuck. I kept trying and finally the starter started to smoke. So what I'm thinking is the starter is stuck engaged and won't turn over anymore. Or I just jumped timing an bent every intake valve. Had any one else had this issue, or are there any suggestions. I need help thanks
What I would suggest is remove the starter and see of you can turn the engine by hand. Put a socket on the crankshaft pulley and see if you can turn the engine clockwise with a long breaker bar. If it turns, it would indicate that the starter locked. The fact that the starter was smoking says that starter is bad anyway.