Looks like its 791VX, i don't have the programing remote to it. Guess il get one off ebay and hope i can fix the alarm without having to remove it. Its nice having a bit of extra security and remote start.
Note to self, not to leave the car in gear if using remote start function.

If it's installed correctly, the neutral safety switch wire should be in use. It will inhibit the remote start if it detects the car is in gear

But I wouldn't take that risk until you're certain.

You still looking for an answer to a mysterious ticking, that we can't hear nor witness. You might want to seek an immediate answer that involves a mechanic and your wallet.

Surely no one will help you now.

Hellow everybody I just joined this forum in hopes of diagnosing my 97's automatic transmission problem, and possibly helping somebody out with their problems also, just i have no knowlege on the auto transmissions.

So the issue is in overdrive gear (lets say "fifth" gear) going about 30-35 mph where the engine is running at 1000-1200 rpms the car will not downshift, but it will buck back and forth, kind of to say "i cant shift help me". The fluid is at the correct level and it has never shook before, just hesitated to downshift a little bit but never shook.

Does anybody know the answer to this?

Your valves do not need adjustment, and that’s just how VQ’s sound.


Check this sound clip and see if that sounds familiar.

Both my 95 & 03 (VQ30 & VQ35) both show some what seems like valve noise. Normal, it’s injector noise and perhaps some valve noise as well.


They are just down stream (say about 6-10 inches) of your exhaust manifolds, so still under the hood.

In this pic, they are the post manifold items




The main cat is essentially directly under the front floorboard. In this pic, it would bolt up to the last flange, after the flex pipe, essentially where the red looking thing is. That’s my pic, but at the time I had attest pipe (red thing).





Main cat






The statement of bank 1 & 2 being “bad” is a misstatement on their part. It means something is causing your bank 1 & 2 sensors to receive “bad” readings (out of spec). Which could be a number of items. Also, I thought you had an 01 AE? Now you said you have an 02? Main point here is that we need all the codes, the exact codes too. These will start was a “P”. As in P0xxx, x= numbers. From the sounds of it, I’m guessing P0420 is in there somewhere.


If it is indeed your cat &/or pre-cats. Brian Catts sells a direct fit replacement cat convertor (main cat under the car) for a reasonable price.

Here’s a helpful thread:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ld-vs-new.html

ha my bad this is 5th gen topic nevermind

Ok so the leather on the top of my steering wheel is peeling and its getting pretty discolored (gray leather----> Black undercoat) So i decided to get a wheel skin but now I am in a dilemma whether I should go with the stock look again (grey interior) with the all gray cover or if I should go with something like black on the sides with perforation. Which would look better. Anyone have pics with a two tone from wheelskins? (obviously not looking for something like blue and green, something that would seem to be stock)

6th gen seats don't swap to a 5.5 do they?

Can someone link me to the thread where an issue is discussed regarding hearing engine noise in your speakers...
I saw the thread somewhere, but lost it and cant seem to find it in my browsers history neither.

Also, is it me or in the DIY thread many of the links do not link to the proper threads?

You have alternator whine. I need some information about your current system set up in order to properly diagnose.

Im assuming youre directing this to me, if so i have a 100 watt amp with a sub, and 4 Polk audio 60 watt speakers.
That's pretty much it.

You either have inadequate power wire, a poor ground, or low quality RCA's, or a combination of these.

It's definitely a wiring issue, remedy each of these and you should be able to reduce your whine to nothing.

Where are you located btw?

Check out the product I developed - the link is in my sig for 'saggy spare tire cover.' Let me know if you're interested in purchasing one.

I guess i check the ground out, some of the people in the car audio field that i know claim it might be tied to a poor ground.

As so the saggy spare tire cover, I don't have the so called big hole in the middle as a board used that balances everything out while still having access to the spare. Don't really need it, sorry. Also, I'm located in Philadelphia.
Thanks for the advice.

No problem, good luck.

You're not too far from me. If you ever need help, let me know. I work on a lot of local Maximas in the area.

Whats up guys, I've established that I been having a rear motor mount issue in 2001 auto gle. My cousin works at pep boys and they only have a rear transmission mount listed for my car while the manual has a rear motor mount listed. So does my car have both transmission and motor or do they both do the same job in the rear? -__-

Hello.
It seems like my clutch is slowly giving out, which brand of clutches would you guys recommend. I'm about to get the duralast one from auto zone...

You have 4. Front, rear, transmission (driver's side), and transverse (passenger side).

So basically pep boys is wrong, they have it listed as a rear transmission mount. And I doubt that its the tranny mount cause I hear it hitting my firewall. Are the ebay set of mounts any good?

Yea, sounds like their information is incorrect.

Your engine mount is hitting your firewall?! That doesn't sound right.

eBay mounts are fine, they do the job.

Lol it sounds like that when i push the car. The motor leans back when i put it into drive. The car vibrates a little at stop lights, and it jerks a little when put into drive. Do the ebay ones come with the rubbers and all that stuff? and thanks alot man!

Are you talking about the folder rubber piece that wraps around the mount? No, they don't include those. Out of the many many mounts I've replaced, I've both reused and not reused them, and have seen/felt/heard no difference whatsoever.

My check engine light came on with the code p0420. I am wondering whether or not this is the front or rear catalytic converter. I just replace the one rear o2 sensor also and wanted to know am I going to need a new one (o2). "Please" pm me with responses. I am looking to repair this asap.

Cali or Fed spec?

Fed I think.

Bank 1 is the precat in the front of the car, directly under your oxygen sensors. I had the same issue, replaced it with one from Eastern Catalytic for around ~200.

Not sure which bank was specified when I had it read. I'm wondering how many cats this thing has. It's a 2000 gle. Nissan is trying to get that $100 diagnostic charge. I know so little about this car.

Hello Everyone .. Help me out please ..

I have a Maxima 2002 3.0 J V6 . Its an auto .. Sumtimes it strugles to shift from 1 to 2 .. it hapens whn i stp my vehicle fr a signal ..n try to run once again ..i push down de acclerator ..i dont start running but my RPM goes up sumtyms till 1500 or 2000 or 2500 and de it gives a jerk n starts to go ..i also face dis problem whn eva i nearly stp my vehicle . xample : Gettng passed a Speed Bumb / hump ..

I m reaaly helpless as i knw nothng of my ride ,, dis is my first car n i jst owned it fr 6 months ..

Pleasehelp me out ,...
thnkx in advance ..

Hi, welcome!

If I understand correctly, it sounds like your transmission is slipping, or not even engaging into gear at all.

When you rev the engine in neutral, is there any issue with the engine?

When the gears are in neutral .. dere is no sort of troubles .. engine is fine .. normal sound as adars .. n can u be a bit more specific about what u meant by issue with the engine whn in neutral and gear slipings ??

Thnkx a lot fr reply and tryng to solve ma prob

de gear engage beautifully from de 2 and above ..de problem is whn de try to shift from 1st to de 2nd ..
Moreova i found dis ..help me plzz !!
NIKV69
Senior Member
2005 Maxima SE

Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Bay Shore, NY
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 527


Quote:
I see what your saying but when in fail safe mode it would not cause the tranny to bang into gears , the most common issue is the 3-2 shifts , everyone that has the same issue isnt running a cam sensor code.

Im trying to image what your talking about and not disagreeing but ive come across so many tranny issue with the same symptoms.

Most likely parts of your 3rd gear clutch band has been worn out , with some burn or metal flakeings that are in your valve body, the fluids now is back up that the line pressue gets jam up and sudden push thru very hard causing that JERK.
Then how do you explain the fact that once I replaced the sensor the tranny went back to working normally?


Trust me, the hard start, banging into reverse and forward and slipping into high gear and not going over a certain RPM and speed is all a result of fail safe mode.

2001 Infiniti I30. I had P0171 and P0174. Replaced MAF, reset ECU. SES light came back on after 60 miles. This time it was code P0160. Also, now when I start my car, sometimes the engine will shut off. This happens once out of 10 times, but I'm worried it could get worse.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

2 catalyic converters - precat (right under the front headers, before the y-pipe) and main cat (under the middle of the car, after the y-pipe)

I was trying to identify if it was an engine issue (like air flow sensor) or a transmission issue - which is what it sounds like.

If you are not sure whether your car is Cali or Federal spec, a quick way to find out is to look at the number of plugs sitting right between the engine and the radiator; if you have 4, is a Cali spec, otherwise is Federal. There is also a label on the center of the underhood titled "Vehicle Emission Control Information". Towards the bottom of that label it says "This vehicle conforms to.... blah, blah, blah"; if the word Califorinia is in there, is a Cali spec.
Now, if you have a Cali spec, your car has two separate precats and a main cat (or rear cat). Federal spec have a one-piece dual precat and a main cat, if I'm not mistaken.
Code P0420 is usually related to the precat on Bank 1 (the one right before the main cat).

What to do if my transmittion is Sliping ??
And how i knw if i have a air censor prob ..
M totally new to this car and have like very less idea ..

A slipping transmission is never good, naturally. It is common for us to have a small 1-2 shift hesitation during the cold season. However, anything else would need to be diagnosed by a transmission mechanic. I would start looking around for a used tranny.

I take it you have changed the tranny fluid?

Yes , I Have changed my transmittion fluid jst 3500 kms ago ..

Usually a slipping tranny is caused by one of the 4 shift/line pressure solenoids in the solenoid pack malfunctioning. If you let this go on too long, it'll damage your clutch packs.