That sounds a lot like the switch is bad or has a bad contact, causing partial or intermittent functionality. Check it out/replace it.

 

Alright, so I'll still have to buy a conversion kit to get them to work in my 00, correct?

 

I've come to the conclusion that I need to to get new rotors/pads. While driving I can feel what I think are the back rotors and pads rubbing while I'm not using them. I had the car jacked up and went to spin the wheel while it was free and it seized up after about half a turn, once the pads and rotor made contact, then had to use a decent amount of force to get it past where it was making contact, to spin free again. I also noticed that there was about maybe a half inch of contact on both rear pads on the rotors. I assume this is what is making the ride seem "bumpy", for lack of a better term, correct? The faster I go the more noticeable it is. If I'm going 35-40 mph there are roughly 6-8 "bumps" a second, and while on the highway the bumps get pretty intense and make the ride loud. It also causes vibration and the oh so popular front-end clucking to go along with the vibration that I can feel really well in the steering-wheel, which I do not enjoy.

Anyone have any thoughts? Step 1 seems like I need to replace the rotors to get rid of the "bumping" and step 2 sounds like I need new tie rods and ball joints to ditch the notorious front-end clunks.

Thanks in advance.

 

Mine was just doing something similar last week. I could ONLY use the vent control, for both venting and moving it back to open it completely. I could not figure it out for a few days. I ended up unplugging the battery for a minute, plugging it back in, venting the window and then flipping the sun roof switch all the way back to open it and it went. Not sure if that was a fix or dumb luck, but it worked. Good luck!

 

sorry about wrong forum; newbie and all. Thx for the info Sir....:-)

 

The electrical wiring is different between the 2000/01 and the 2002/03 and needs to be "converted". I don't know if there is a kit available, but an org member has done this and documented it.

Here's the link -

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...guide-diy.html

 

There are conversion harnesses which you can get from the dealer. They're really just pigtails for the 02-03 headlights. I used them with the above write-up, took about 45 minutes.

 

hey guys i just put in 2007 g35s wheels on my 00 max. i wanna know what you guys think, ill be putting more pics up. i paid $400 with tires. (bout 60-70% life on em)

 

Once you get more worthwhile posts, you'll be able to create a thread in Member Rides where you can make a thread to showoff the car. That's the right place for pictures of your car/mods.

 

alright thanks for letting me know lol

 

**Repost**

Ok so when I turn on my lights both low beams illuminate but after about 5 seconds my driver side bulb turns a shade of purple for 2 seconds and then completely shuts off. This basically happens every time I turn my lights on. This is just a bulb issue or would this be a ballast issue? Thanks.

 

Hi, I'm about to buy a 02 Maxima with 120K miles on it. I just want to know if there's anything common that should have been replaced at the 100K mark that I shjould ask about. I know for these cars that mileage isn't much, it can take another 100K. I appreciate any help, Thanks.

 

I'm having a problem with one of my rear wheel brakes. It seems that the brakes are slightly locked in one rear wheel. Its not that bad, i can still push the car when its off on even ground, but i can hear the brake pads touching the brake rotor on that one particular wheel. Simply put, the brakes in that one wheel slightly drag...

Seems to be like that when im diving or not...
Thanks.

 

It could be a siezed caliper, or the parking brake arm or a siezed guide pin that the caliper slides on. You will have to look at it and figure out exactly which.

 

Hi guys,

This weekend, I will be replacing front and rear brake pads and rotors along with the rear calipers.

Since I am doing the rear calipers, should I replace those brake hoses while I am at it? They are only $10 for both so I figured it would be cost effective.

Also, I know the connection between the hose and caliper is very straight forward, but what kind of connection is at the other end of the hose? Is it difficult to replace?

Thanks in advance.

 

They are practically completely separate jobs. Pads vs brake lines isn't one of those "might as well do it since I'm in there" types of jobs.

If you want to replace your brake lines, then you have to fully bleed and refill your brake fluid system.

Also, replacing existing lines with new OEM replacements is going to give you nearly 0 benefit or difference in feel. If you decide to replace with stainless braided lines, then that's a different story.

 

I wasnt talking about the full lines all the way to the master, just the ~10" rubber hoses that connect directly to the caliper. I have 150k on the car so I figured replacing the hose might be a good idea for preventative maintenance.

I'm replacing the rear calipers, so I would have one end of the hose already disconnected. Thats all I was thinking.

 

I'm talking about the same hoses you are. Its up to you if you want to change them, but it's not going to make a difference at all unless you replace with stainless, such as those made by Goodrich.

 

I was planning on replacing my ignition coils but decided to test them instead of just replacing all of them. The coils tested ok using the ohm meter method but when I removed the rear middle and rear right coils the spark plug chambers had oil in them, one much more than the other. Enough oil to create a vacuum making it difficult to remove the coil.

I'm guessing this is what was causing my misfiring and is a valve cover issue. Has anyone else had this on a 5.5 gen?

 

Replace the coils (or just the boots if you can find them) that were soaked in oil, and replace the valve cover to fix the leak.

Fairly common issue, though I've seen a lot more on bank 2 than bank 1 as yours is.

 

Will I need to replace the valve cover or just the gasket? Or both?

 

Both. The plug tube seals are integrated into the valve cover, necessitating replacement of the entire thing.

The 6th gen valve covers are substantially cheaper and a direct fit, ~$45 vs the 5.5, ~$133.

 

Awesome! Thanks for the info pmohr. From what I've seen on the forum it looks like the '04 gasket covers are the way to go. I'll have to get on ordering one.

 

While you're ordering parts - http://www.courtesyparts.com/22465-p...3-p-45293.html

 

Anybody have ever seen a 5th gen with fender flares? If so, can you post some pictures or send them to me by mp?

Thanks

 

As many times as I search 6 speed swap ( in many different places) there's nothing useful to be found. I'm planning on starting on it in 2 or 3 weeks and would appreciate it if someone could point me in the right direction. These cars are new to me, it's fun learning about them but I'm diving head first into this project with nothing other than a general knowledge of how it needs to be done. Thanks, I guess that's my question.

 

^^
All Motor Forum:
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor-61/

1st sticky on that subforum, 5 speed parts list:
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/3...arts-list.html

 

http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/3...edure-faq.html

Just about the same for your car.

Also, from searching:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ght=speed+swap
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...peed-swap.html
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ne-4-days.html
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...peed-swap.html
...etc

What does the 5MT parts list have to do with a 6MT swap? Almost none of the parts are the same.

 

The question didn't explain how much info was wanted or already known. I figured the methodology was the same, save for the actual part #'s, and it was a decent starting point - clearly your response was more beneficial.

 

They're not really similar at all, save for the actual putting in a clutch/flywheel/trans part. Shifter cables vs rods, modifying the trans mount, actual shifter mounting, neutral/reverse position sensors, sprung clutch vs dual mass flywheel, etc.

 

Good to know - I'll just stick with suspension, audio, and spare tire covers then

 

No...Maximas don't really go off-roading.

 

First post. Yes, I'm a noob. To Maximas in general and specifically sunroofs. Just picked up a 2000 Maxima with 175k that runs like a champ. I've had this car a week and already fallen totally in love. Everything works except the sunroof. I read through all the forums about resetting the sunroof but couldn't find any pics of what the controls should look like since I don't see any "tilt" option on my controls. I looked a little closer and realized the buttons don't appear to be "integrated"into the maplight area like most of the instructions indicated. So I took a couple of pictures of the button and the glass.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1179948...eat=directlink

Is this an aftermarket sunroof? Does anyone recognize the brand or have ideas for troubleshooting?

 

Yes, that's aftermarket. Basics first, have you checked for power and ground at the sunroof motor/switch/control module, whatever it uses? If no power, trace the power lead they used back to wherever they hooked in to, likely down at the fuse box (and hopefully not just at the map lights).

Generally speaking, aftermarket sunroof installs tend to be hacked up, I've yet to see a decent install (most recent was held to the roof with nothing but RTV and self tapping screws).

If you need parts, see here - http://www.signature-autoproducts.us...208&Itemid=234

 

what's the tranny code for 2002-2003 auto tranny's? Does the 01 fit?

 

thanks for the links, at least it's good to know it's been done plenty of times and it doesn't look very hard.

right now i've got a sound around 2k rpm under slight load that sounds like rattling, any gear as long as it's under the certain amount of load. if it were detonation, how would it be doing this under slight load and not so under a heavier load at the same rpm? that's what's getting me. i guess when i get it back from the place i bought it off (they are changing a cv shaft, crank sensor, and hopefully straightening out my evap code that were all bad when i purchased the thing around 3 weeks ago) i'm tired of check engine light already haha

 

I've got an 03 Auto with 130,xxx. Lately she's been feeling very weak, so weak that my girlfriend who doesn't care about cars at all has noticed that it just doesn't go anymore. No codes, just noises. Pings like crazy ALL THE TIME, cat rattle when the engine winds down, a tiny little knocking kinda noise at around 1200RPM, but you can barely hear it. My brother is an ASE Master tech and without even looking at it seems to think its the fuel pump. Any thoughts? PLEASE HELP, I WAS OVERTAKEN BY A STOCK 2.0 JETTA!!!!!

 

A33B 4AT is RE4F04B, same as the A33. A quick look at the FSM shows the harness connectors should have the same pinouts and physical design.

If the electrical isn't the same, all you'd have to do is swap over the VB and subharness.

 

converter plugged up?

 

How do I check for this?