What is the prefer?

Have you done any electrical work? Anything done to your gauges? What about the combination switch (turning on and off headlights?

 

Hello my maxima dies after coming to a stop (especially with a sudden stop). I have replaced upper manifold gasket, throttle body gasket, iacv, coil packs and spark plugs. The car runs great other than that. It is a 5 speed btw. No CEL and I'm stumped. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you!

 

Sounds like the MAF (mass air flow) sensor. Not sure what year your Max is, but you can use a 2k / 2k1 MAF sensor on a 2k2 / 2k3. Actually, a number of members prefer that MAF sensor over the 2k2 / 2k3.

 

Hey guys,

Do you know if this bulb will fit in our side marker or will it be too long. I know it is a 194 so it will fit in the socket, but I am asking if anyone knows if it will fit inside the sidemarker without hitting it. it says it is 30 mm from base to tip.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pcs-T10-19...ht_5416wt_1270

Also, while on the topic, is the tower type LED best for sidemarkers, or another type?

And finally, will this type of bulb work best in a 01 turn signal? 36 led?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...ht_3403wt_1270

 

Hi everyone, hope you all having a great day. Got a question about spark plugs since im gonna be changing them soon. I have read mixed reviews so the questiong is, what are the best spark plugs for a 01 max? I currently have bosh platium with the 4 points. For what i have read ngk is the way to go but also that irridium is not as good (performance wise) as platinum. Any advice?

 

The recommended spark plug is NGK Platinum IIRC.

But I've installed cheaper plugs without issue.

 

good day people! i am new here as well!
i am having some issues with my 2000 nissan maxima,
1) power steering leak frequently, just ordered new one
2) codes p 0420, 0430, 0403, 0505, 0731, 0732, 0733, 1440
3) car shuts off when coming to stop or slowing down, but no loss of power, starts right back up (could this be bad gas)
4)car jerks when switching gears, sort of hesitant to changes and than a hard switch(i noticed if i rev hard enough this can be minimized and gears shift smooth)
5) car uses alot of gas, more than usual
6) is it worth fixing?
ps- cleaned maf and throttle body, no change.....
sorry im new here and i really need help with my maxima 2000..please email me at chika87matt@ if u have replies to answer as i dont know how to search replies to my reply posts on here yet any help would be greatly appreciated

 

Thx for the info djfrestyl greatly apreciated. The car had cheap spark plugs when i first changed them. So you could say im upgrading step by step lol. This time im going for the ngk platinum then. And hopefully soon ill also look into my codes. At this point (191k) im begginng to worry about maybe the cat going bad. It might just be my imagination but it feels like ive lost some power.

 

As long as you are stock without turbo/supercharger/NOS/fuel system mods then any plug should do. The platinum is longest lasting at 50K or above and the iridium and copper are recommended for around 30K miles before you change them.

Performance wise there isn't a whole lot of difference between the three...

 

Wow...you have a number of engine codes. Clear those up first. Considering you are getting poor gas mileage you probably want to address those codes in order to improve your gas mileage. I'm sure it will help to address the other issues you are experience.

Search the code number on the board for some info as each code is different and I'm sure has been discussed before on the board.

Good luck!

 

hi everyone I recently installed a block of plate on my 02 maxima and noticed a loss of power on the low end, is there a way to get it back? I have no mods on car except the BoP. The car has been recently tuned up also

 

The BOP will give you hp gain in the top end, not sure how much tho, heard its around 5hp. You jus removed an air obstruction so its hurting your low end a little. If you want to compensate for it, do a timing advance 17 maybe? or throw on the thermal spacers. Does it feel smoother?

 

Thx! However what i had understood was irridium outlasts platinum and platinum being better slightly in performance?

 

yes if feels smoother and quicker at the top, but I can tell the low end has dropped off

 

I was thinking aabout getting it but already lost some low end with the berk sri. Just waiting to get the thermal spacers to make up for it.

 

The first one should fit. I bought some 194's just liek that and they fit fine in my 02. As for the tower type im not sure about what the max length is that can fit inside the sidemarkers. I think they might be ok. For the turn signal it should fit and looks like it would be very bright, but your going to have issues with it flashing too fast. You can get some load equalizers to fix that.

 

ok guys, i dont know what to call this but, heres my situation, when i put the car into reverse (my foot is the still on clutch pedal, slightly enough for it to catch the gear), it does what it does, but when im shifting back to neutral (foot all the way on depress on clutch pedal), my shifter goes into neutral smooth and no grinds, but when i slightly let go of the clutch, the car still somehow in reverse gear going backwards? at this moment when i feel this i press the clutch and put it into any of the 1-5 gears, (usually i put into 1st gear) and then back down to neutral spot and that's what i been doing to accommodate this issue? any suggestion on whats wrong with it? clutch? tranny? Clutch Master Cylinder? Slave Cylinder?? TIA

 

Hey Everyone,

This may be a noob question, but I couldn’t find any posts about this. I have a 2002 Maxima with 18” 350Z Wheels. The specs are 225/45/18 in the front, and I believe 235/45/18 in the rear. I can check on this later today, bottom line, the rears are slightly wider.

The problem is with the rear. The right, rear tire rubs the fender causing some pretty hefty wear on the sidewall of the tire (right on the edge of the tread and side of the tire). Now, this only happens when I hit a really big bump or crevice in the road, or whenever someone, or something heavy is sitting in the back. The odd part about all this is that it only happens on the right side. The left never has any issues, even with added weight to the rear or on bumps.

Does anybody have any idea as to what this could be or what I can do to have this fixed?

Thanks for any suggestions.

 

has anyone heard of a vias delete? where can i find this info

 

For the 194 side marker bulb, the one you linked will fit. I have a bulb (type unknown) that is bigger than a 194. It measures 36mm base-tip and has a diameter of 15mm. It fits with room to spare. As best I can measure it, the bulb base-tip could be 3 or 4 mm longer. Diameter has so much extra room that I didn't bother to measure. As for the style, that tower style is probably all you will find that can fit.

 

Ok so i went to autozone and got 3 codes. PO420, 430 and P1130. the 430 and 420 are o2 sensor and bad cat i believe. Those two codes are somewhat old. At this point my best bet would be just gutting the cat right? Now for the P1130 is some valve autozone said. And there im clueless. Any advice on the P1130 code?

Ps: the car runs good. No problems at all.

 

i have not done and work to the gauges themselves about a year and a half ago the combo switch broke and i had it replaced with an oem part so i dont think thats the problem i heard from a retierd nissan tech that sometimes a contact comes unsodered in the gauges and can cause that and i have gone through and look the circuit board over many times and never found any melted terminals i called nissan after doing all that to try to just get a replacement cluster and they will only sell it piece by piece i just wanna get it resolved what should i do also my first post was done on my smart phone waht i meant to say was odometer but my phone thought i was trying to say prefer

 

P1130 is a Swirl Control Valve problem.

This system has a swirl control valve in the intake passage of each cylinder. While idling and during low engine speed operation, the swirl control valve closes. Thus the velocity of the air in the intake passage increases, promoting the vaporization of the fuel and producing a swirl in the combustion chamber. Because of this operation, this system tends to increase the burning speed of the gas mixture, improve fuel consumption, and increase the stability in running conditions. Also, except when idling and during low engine speed operation, this system opens the swirl control valve. In this condition, this system tends to increase power by improving intake efficiency via reduction of intake flow resistance, intake flow. The solenoid valve controls swirl control valve’s shut/open condition. This solenoid valve is operated by the ECM.

The swirl control valve control solenoid valve responds to signals from the ECM. When the ECM sends an ON (ground) signal, the solenoid valve is bypassed to apply intake manifold vacuum to the swirl control valve actuator. This operation closes the swirl control valve. When the ECM sends an OFF signal, the vacuum signal is cut and the swirl control valve opens.

Possible Causes

* Harness or connectors (The swirl control valve control solenoid valve circuit is open or shorted.)
* Hoses and tubes between intake manifold, vacuum tank and swirl control valve actuator
* Intake system air leaks
* Swirl control valve actuator
* Mass air flow sensor
* Swirl control valve control vacuum check switch
* Throttle position sensor
* Swirl control valve control solenoid valve
* Crankshaft position sensor (REF)
* Throttle position sensor

 

Wow a lot of info thx! Um...ill look at the circuits. Out of all the possible causes you mentioned two things come to the top of my head. I noticed theres a small crack in the throttle body hose where the clamp is. And second when i changed the rear valcover gasket i couldnt remember exactly where the little hoses fron the manifold and air box went so i conected them how i saw fit. Is there a change a misplaced of those hoses could be gabing something to do here?

 

Yes, there is that chance.

I'd check the vacuum line routing first.

 

Except i dont know exaclty how it goes unless i guess i look at someone elses engine. I tried looking for a pic online but couldnt find a clear one. and as far as the crack on the thottle body house it doesnt pass the clamp so i dont think the vacum is there but nevetheless is not out of the question....

 

For some reason I thought the vacuum line routing was in the FSM. You have the service manual, right?

 

Yesterday my car started having a serious problem. I started the car and it just began sputtering and shaking then the engine would die off. I had to get it towed back to my house and now I may need to get it towed to a shop unless I can find out what the problem is. If I start it and let it idle then it'll run okay, then as soon as I give it gas it starts to die out and smoke. It sounds like theres some popping noises and there's also a pretty strong smell coming from it.

When I attempt to drive it, it jumps a lot and eventually turns off while moving. So that's not something I want to deal with.

Here's a quick vid I took, I'm not sure if it will help with anything but it may be of some assistance.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cHg0j...ature=youtu.be

I put in some grounding wires and cleaned the MAF yesterday then the car ran fine for hours until it suddenly started acting up. A couple days prior to me ever touching anything in the engine bay my car sputtered and died randomly while I was driving. The idle is fine and actually pretty smooth, until I try to give it gas

 

It sounds like its not getting enough gas when you step on the pedal. Get the fuel pump and fuel filter checked. Here is a link for you to check out:

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-got-part.html

 

Is the car throwing any codes? There are many things that can cause an issue like this, a code would help narrow things down

 

Are you lowered?

Search for "rear beam re-centering"

 

Thank you DennisMik I'm going to check that out and hopefully it'll be the fix I need.

My car is throwing a code but I wasn't able to get it checked.

 

I posted this in the I30 forum but figured I might get more ideas here.

I just got a 2001 I30 and have a few questions.

When I put the key all the way forward but not to start, I can hear a loud whiney motor noise coming from the engine lasting about 5-7 seconds. It also does this after turning off and sometimes when I'm just shifting. It also does it after a normal start.....seems to last 2 or 3 cycles.

The Infiniti dealership said it is the electronically controlled engine mounts. I also have some mild shaking at highway speeds which I understand may be due to the mounts.

My questions are: How many mounts are there and are they all electronic? Is there a way to tell which ones need replacing? Can I save money by taking it to the Nissan dealership and do the Maximas use the same parts?

Infiniti Dealer quoted 4-500 for the mounts, installed.

 

The I30/Maxima has 4 mounts - front, rear, transmission, passenger transverse Front and rear are electronic. You do NOT have to replace them with electronic ones. You can get non-electronic ones from a manual version.

And the dealer is going to rip you on the labor (and parts for that matter, AND they will definitely say you need electronic). Find a local org member or an independent shop. You can get all 4 aftermarket mounts

 

Is there any major price difference with electronic, and will I notice a change? I think I read on here it helps at idle? Do they communicate with the ECM?

No way I'm going to the dealership unless I have to. They just quoted that the last time the car was in.

edit: They said the noise was the mounts, thought from reading this forum it means they need to go.

 

You won't notice a difference in idle. The electronic mounts are liquid filled that are soft at idle (for comfort) and stiffen at higher speeds and RPM's for more control. They do receive that RPM info from the ECU but they send nothing back. If you unplug them or replace them with non-electronic you will not get any codes or errors.

Oh and yes, big price difference between electronic (Available as OEM only) and manual which are available in aftermarket and are perfectly fine.

If you're getting a noise I do recommend unplugging them ASAP, as bad mounts CAN fry your ECU.

Hope this helps!

 

Yeah this noise has been happening for a long time....maybe a year or more.

Does the failure noise mean they are physically broken or if they are ok can I just up rev it up and unplug them?

Infiniti wanted $350 for an electronic mount vs a local shop with the manual for $150.

 

Rev and unplug, you should be fine.

RockAuto.com has em for like $50-$75 a piece.

I've also seen sets of all 4 on eBay for $100. I've installe a few of them and they're decent but the branded ones from Rock are marginally better.

Use the money saved on a new spare tire cover (see sig for details)

 

Hey what is a good set of aftermarket projector headlights? I'm buying an 01 maxima and i am a big fan of the black housing from the 02' 03 models. Is there any set that is accepted here as good? I really am sceptical about the ebay projectors and im not sure if the OEM headlights from 02' 03 are direct fit. Any help appreciated, thanks!

 

The short answer is don't bother with eBay lights. 02-03 headlights will fit and will give excellent light output. They're pricey but worth it, and can be painted.