You're right that the P0505 is bad news. You most likely have a shorted IACV that has taken out the ECM. If you can get it fixed for $100 (or even $200 if they charge you for both parts) its a deal. You can drive the car, the damage is done and it won't get any worse.

 

Thanks so much for the reply! I have been reading the boards here until my eyes went blurry for more insight and took note of the low buzzing sound when the key is on right as the rough idling began. Seems possible that I had a motor mount short as well. It's been a bit overwhelming all the directions this failure can trace back to. My plan is to get the car fax tomorrow and go over all the recall/TBS history and repair history to be ready to deal with the dealership {Not Nissan just a small buy here pay here} I haven't met with the mechanic here but I am hopeful he has a soul and will work with a somewhat educated consumer. Although your advice gives me peace of mind because I must drive it today about 10 miles to work I am still feeling terrible about other parts or the system being harmed further. Most of the posts here advise against a rebuilt ECM and say better to go to the boneyard for one I am somewhat at the mercy of the shop I think. My fear is that they will not fix it completely and I will be going back for more $100 fixes until the warranty runs it's course. I suspect they cleared the codes themselves before I took it... I hate being like that but I'm not new to a used car dealership roller coaster ride. Again I thank you for the advice. Will post results as they develop. What a great community!

 

Repair shop time.... You can quote or cite information from this web site concerning those issues because the P0420, P0430, and P0505 have extensive information on all of them. The first two codes are emission related to your O2 sensors or pre-cats failing (or both). The last one is related to your IACV and ECM. I'm assuming you have an automatic transmission? If so, the ECM failure (a chance in your case) is related to a short in one of your transmission mounts which is also related to the IACV valve.

All of these issues are definitely worth the $100 deductible in your warranty. Just don't be hasty to take the car back after "repairs" are completed. Tell the shop you will test drive before taking it back so you don't end up taking back a temporarily fixed car.

 

Thank you for the advice yes it's an automatic. It's 100 each time I take it in so I don't want to become a frequent flyer.

Autocheck report is very clean with no accidents and no repair record at all.
Is this normal? There is nothing there besides registrations and what looks like a sale at 125,000 miles to a second owner. I purchased it from a small dealer with about 147,000. It has a high score of 69... ya that's helpful. haha

Are any recalls and any dealer service on those reports? I feel like I just wasted 30 bucks, great start! lol
Thanks in advance to anyone willing to answer these dumb inquiries.

 

Not familiar with carfax, but if a person does all their own maintenance it will never show up on a carfax report. I don't know what would as far as maintenance goes because most independent shops don't take track your repair by your VIN number...maybe only dealer maintenance applies to carfax. If that's the case then you won't see very much...people get tired of getting butt raped by the dealer for maintenance costs.

 

Yes I see it can get very pricey. I was thinking there might be some under warranty repairs of some of the bugs and stuff. By the looks of it someone used an awful lot of electrical tape on everything so some hack was fixing it at some point. I've almost memorized the vin # and I've only had it a week. I just hope all the expensive parts go in the next 6 months and my repairman knows how to fix them right. Maybe I'll put a camera under the hood... LOL
Thanks for the advice!

 

sticky?



_______
Jax recommend all the members of this club cooperate with each other from Buy Super DVDs online with Luann’s **** business and He tries to offer protection to her.

 

Hey, thanks for the reply. I ended up taking it to the dealer for a flush before I saw your post (not a power/machine flush, I understand those can be rough on older vehicles). The problem hasn't changed, if anything it's even more noticeable now. I have trouble believing that there's something mechanically wrong with the tranny, seeing how it only has 52k miles and, according to my pre-purchase carfax repoort, it was getting regularly scheduled maintenance. And also the fact that the fluid itself wasn't that bad when I got it; it must have been changed at 30k or something.

So I tend to agree with you that it very well could be the TCM. My question is, will a TCM problem show up on some kind of diagnostic scan? I don't wanna blow too much money unless I'm pretty positive that that is the issue.

 

You could try running the self diagnostic built into the auto trans and see if that tells you anything.

The self diagnostic procedure starts on page 53 of section AT (Automatic Transaxle) of the service manual.

If you don't have the manual, you can download one from here:

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2003/

 

Tried this today... I can't move the selector from P to D while they key is on ACC like it tells me to. Didn't really want to force it.

 

You can't force the lever out of park without a lot of brute force and damage. But my car has an emergency release in the plate around the shift lever. It is at the end of the plate where it meets the dash and says shift lock (I think). You pry up the little cover and it comes out. Then you take something like a screwdriver and press down and move the shift lever. But I don't know if that is still in the 5.5 gens.

 

Hello
I want to know if this solenoid pack kit will fit in my 2k3 Maxima
31940-80x25.
Thank you.

 

Don't know. Go here and enter the car's VIN and it will tell you.

http://www.nissanpartszone.com/parts...940-80x25.html

 

Hi

My infiniti I30, some day started to shaking randomly, obviously SES light turn on, so i went to scan, and got P1320 and P0300 codes, at the time I changed MAF. For few days runs fine.
After those days started shaking again, and got P0305 and P1320, so i check the coils, and all was well.
Finally all the mornings the brake light stays on, the trembling still continue randomly, and now the codes are P1320 and P0420.

So now i have no idea what to do,could be camshaft position sensor, change catalytic converter or everything?

 

You have bad ignition coils. The P0300, P0305 and P1320 are all coil problems. The P0300 and P1320 say multiple coils and the P0305 says cylinder #5 coil. The coils have not failed completely, they are intermittent so the ECU cannot give you specific codes for all of them like the P0305. Just replace all the coils now and don't bother to try to find the one coil that may still be good. It isn't worth the aggravation.

The P0420 code will probably go away when the engine is running properly.

 

Thanks bro, now I have to find bran new OEM coils!
Do you know some sponsor that have international shipment?

 

I am assuming I need to post here?? The info made it sound it sound like you prefer someone new to not make a new thread but post here. If this is incorrect please move it.

2002 Maxima 3.5, bought new by me in 2002, has 134,000 miles. No major issues at all.

Have a radiator fan issue now. Start engine when it is cold (not up to operating temp) and fans do not run, which they are not supposed to so everything is normal and good. While still cold (not up to operating temp) turn on AC and fans come on and run as they are supposed to. Turn off AC and fans switch off as they should so again all is normal so far.

Now let engine set and run and temp gauge on dash will start to rise toward normal operating temp range. As soon as engine gets up to normal (not hot) operating temp, the fans will kick on and will never go off until the temp drops back down to a number well below normal operating temp (basically engine gets cold)

I do not have a scan tool but it seems like once the coolant gets around 170ish to 180 (I assume this is normal operating temp) or so the fans kick on and will not go off until the temp drops below that 170ish range. This is regardless of AC being on or off.

I have recently installed new fan assembly and new coolant temp sensor and still same results. I have not replaced relays because I assume this cannot be relays because the relays are simply being told when to open and close. Whatever is telling the relay has to be the issue and I am not aware of a coolant temp “switch”?

Could this be a bad pcm or ecu (whichever term you prefer)? This started about a month ago and I have been chasing it since then. Any ideas guys? This is odd because most issues are guys that cant get fan to come on and they overheat. Well I never overheat but they come on and I cant get them to go off until car cools way down.

Thanks
James

 

As you said, when the a/c is on the fans are supposed to run and not stop.

Without the a/c on, the cooling fans are supposed to turn on at 200 F. The fans should turn off when the coolant temperature has gotten down to around 197 F. As such, you should not see a change in the temperature gauge in the dash.

I doubt that it is a relay for the same reasons you stated, the ECU pin # 35 applies a ground to energize the relay which sends 12 volts to the radiator fans.

You say that you changed the coolant temp sensor. There are 2 sensors, one for the dash gauge and the other for the ECU. Did you change the one with the 2 wires on it? There is a resistance check that you can perform on the temperature sensor, it is in the service manual (FSM). I would suggest you do this test. See page 205 of section EC in the manual.

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2002/

Since the ECU has to interpret to voltage coming from the sensor, is is possible that the ECU is the problem, however I have not seen anyone posting that as being their problem.

 

Thank you this is good info. I have two questions from this. You say there are 2 sensors, where are both of them? The one I replaced was on the drivers side of the engine just left of and down slightly from the trans fluid dipstick. Very easy accessible and visible.

The second question is could the thermostat (I did replace about time this started) be sticking partially open/closed. Not opening enough to allow temp to drop with fans on but not closed enough to allow it to overheat? I have not actually read the coolant temps. I was assuming temp earlier based on gauge position but that is not wise with some of these gauges on vehicles. Could I be hitting 203 temp wise but gauge is looking ok and the above scenario happening with thermostat?

 

I am not sure if described the ECTS (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor). I would have to go out and look at my car from that perspective. The way I like to describe the location is to follow the upper radiator hose to where it connects to the engine. About 2 inches (3?) after that, you will see 2 sensors in a row in the metal tube. The one closest to the radiator is for the dash gauge and has one wire on it. The next one is the ECTS used by the ECU for determining engine temperature. This one has 2 wires on it.

To start with, the engine is supposed to run at around 200 F. So I am sure that the coolant temperature is getting up to that 203 or so degree range in order for the fans to turn on initially. And this would be normal. Actually, 203 F is the actual specification for the point that the cooling fans are supposed to turn on. I tend to always say 200 degrees, it's easier to remember and say that way. And this temperature area is where the temperature gauge needle sits in the middle point.

As to the thermostat question, you have brought up a big area of discussion. Many members of Maxima.org have had problems with some aftermarket thermostats. A thermostat has to do 2 things to meet the Nissan specifications. It has to start opening at a certain temperature and how far it opens at certain temperature points is crucial. It seems that some aftermarket thermostats don't do this correctly. It is a mixture of not opening and closing at the proper temperature or not opening enough. As a result, most of the experienced members will tell you to get the thermostat from Nissan.

See the bottom of page 18, section LC for thermostat operating specs.

The problems caused by these thermostats don't always follow logical patterns. In your case, if the thermostat was staying open too long, why are the radiator fans still running? I would check the resistance of the ECTS even if you did replace it and if it is OK, then replace the thermostat with a Nissan one.

 

New member to the forum, but have followed along on multiple repairs for 3 years. Information here is amazing.

I have had the p1130 swirl valve code coming up on my 2000 GLE 3.0, 222,400 miles. Manufactured 3/99 with the "v" California spec on the plate. I have read all the threads (omg) and suggestions and here is what I have so far.

Done a ses reset and it pops up again.
Car runs and starts great, its well maintained by me and maintenanced.
Good electrical.
Good vacuum from the canister.
Replaced the vacuum lines and most all the rest that were easy access.

Went to the 2 dealers here in NH and northern MA and they all want to sell me an entire air intake or assembly, $475 plus labor. Not. Parts junkies around here have no idea what I am looking for or what it is, and quite frankly I would just like to replace with new the solenoid and acuator for it. NH inspections are brutal here and it will not pass next month and I think my car is good for another 100k. Its a great city car for going into Boston.

I need the mfg part numbers for these parts and could not locate them in the threads if someone could provide them to me, that would be awesome. I might also need a reliable mail order source to obtain them so I can switch them out.

Much apprectiated.

 

The swirl valve actuator in the LIM is not sold separately, which is why they were trying to sell you the whole assembly.

From what I can tell from FAST, it looks like the solenoid might also only come with the UIM.

Have you diagnosed either, or are you just replacing parts until it's fixed?

 

Nothing on diagnosis of either.
I just did the easy stuff that I had time for hoping for the best result. Connectors are good and replaced tubings.
Got the resouces to replace them and it will be quicker and easier for me to accomplish, but didn't want to spend close to $500 from the dealer plus all the other garbage they wanted to do. Bill was going to be $750.
I travel alot and just easier if I replace the componetns if I am able. Just need the right part numbers for the components if possible or the whole Assmebly if I have to so I can find it on my own.
What are your thoughts......... you seem to have a handle on this problem.

 

I have searched and I cannot find the second sensor you are describing. There is only 1 sensor. Are you certain a 2002 has 2 sensors you described and not just one. Thanks!

 

If you really want the part numbers:
LIM - 14001-3Y102, $333.42 at Courtesy
UIM - 14010-3Y110, $521.16 at Courtesy

It would be quicker, easier, and cheaper to get the parts you need from a junkyard.

The VQ30 uses two coolant temp sensors, one for the ECU, the other for the cluster. With your VQ35, there is only one sensor, it feeds data to the ECU. That information is then sent directly to the cluster.

 

Ok that is why I could not find it so that leaves me with only one real option, it has to be the cheap aftermarket thermostat I installed.

By the way, I see you are in Maryville. I am just down the road from you in Cleveland, just north of Chattanooga.

 

Hey there! I just created an account here
Anyways, I was driving my 01 Maxima home, and i decided to use cruise control. I was cruzing at about 75 MPH. After i cleared the cruise, i pulled into walmart, (About 30 min later) When i came back and pulled out, i noticed a jerk. The car jerked as soon as i hit the gas.... So i kept driving, and out of nowhere my rpms hit 9,000, and the car would not move!!!! I let go of the gas, hit the gas again, and straight to redline! I pull over, and shut of my car. When i started it back up it drove normal for 30 seconds, then the same thing happened! The fastest i could go was 40MPH. If i would hit the gas, it would rev, then jerk and just would stay at the RPMS im reving at.... HELP! Would it be the shift speed sensor? (NO MODS) (ONLY SUBS AND RADIO INSTALLED)
(PS: THE CAR WONT SHIFT, ITS AUTOMATIC, I CANT USE "1" OR "2")

 

Doesn't sound good. Did you check the trans oil level? What about the check engine light?

 

Or the "AT" light?

 

When i put the car in drive and step on the gas, between the 1st gear and the 2nd gear, the idle will rise up to #2 and will drop down and the car is not accelerating to normal speed. Also after it goes over 20mph, then it will drive normally until i reduce speed again. Please can someone help me out with this problem. Thank you

 

i been driving my 2k2 auto max for almost a year now but still noob with Qs

1. is it normal for the car to idle around 12-1400 on cold weather but rpm keeps dropping down until the car reaches normal operating temp..

2. when i stop at light then take off approxemetley like 10 seconds later the rpm drops from mostley 3 to 2 it does it twice then back to normal.. it,s like the car driving then stalls for a second slows down then back to normal not sure how to explain it but i think it,s normal

3. when i change gears from Park To R the car shakes same with R to D what could be the cause of that i am thinking some broken mount..

i appreciate any help u guys can offer

 

This is normal. ECU is trying to get the pre cats to operating temp faster in order to reduce emissions.


Seems as if the tranny is doing its job, shifting. I'm assuming this is an AT?

Could be a number of things, and a mount would seem culprit. Could also be something else, any more detail?

 

yes it,s automatic (shifting i should have figured that out

i noticed the shaking ever since i got into an accident wasnt terrible one it was the driver side door that,s it.. the feeling is like when u park down hill and dont use the E brakes the car moves forward little bit the same effect here but moves backward with little of shake.. i will be taking the car for power steering pressure hose replacement and i will have the mechanic take a look at it.. thanks for the help man

 

It just came on today, i took it to autozone and they cleared it, but they said it CAN be the shift speed sensor. The car ran just fine today, all fluids are fine.

 

Hi All,
I am a new user in to this forum..and its not allowing me to post a new thred.im from INDIA and i have bought a bose amplifier,speakers and a sub woofer from USA and got delivered.But im trying to understand various wires coming out of amplifier.Can some one help me please to guide me what wire goes to which devise..i can send the closeup pics of the wires if any could guide me with the mail id. Will be very much thankful if some one replies me and helps me as this system is not understood by anyone in india..thanks..Below is the ebay link of the set i bought..can send the closup pics if required..My id is pradeep.veginati@gmail.com.Kindly Help.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bose-6-Piece...81030736972%26

 

You need to get the specific number codes they scan. They don't always know, well most of the time they don't know, what the code relates to exactly. But if you bring that code to us and post on here we can help you. The codes will be a letter P with four digits after it. For example, P0420.

 

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/2002/EL.pdf

I'd start on page 186

 

Hi All,
I am a new user in to this forum..and its not allowing me to post a new thred.im from INDIA and i have bought a bose amplifier,speakers and a sub woofer from USA and got delivered.But im trying to understand various wires coming out of amplifier.Can some one help me please to guide me what wire goes to which devise..i can send the closeup pics of the wires if any could guide me with the mail id. Will be very much thankful if some one replies me and helps me as this system is not understood by anyone in india..thanks..Below is the ebay link of the set i bought..can send the closup pics if required..My id is pradeep.veginati@gmail.com.Kindly Help.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bose-6-Piece...81030736972%26

 

Your best bet is to look at the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for the model year. There is an electrical section which as wiring diagrams. You can download the specific section (EL = Electrical) for the FSM from the following link:

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/

 

Hey guys although Ive searched, is there anyway to get the orange turnsignal lights INSIDE our head lamps to stay on? Like not the sidemarkers in the bumper but the actual orange ones in our headlamps.
Ive searched and only found the sidemarker thing.