OK so I guess disconnecting the battery will take care of the air bag issue then... do you know how long I should leave it disconnected before working?

I counted in the owner's manual, and there are a total of 18 lights/symbols on instrument panel, you mean to change all of them? I don't understand what you mean there.

I was gonna take the windshield washer fluid light since I just remembered my sensor on the washer fluid is not working anyways. But then I'll have blue SES light lol.

Thanks for your reply.

 

Pending P0420 that pops on and off on my 5.5. Bad cat or O2? Front or rear manifold?

 

I'd say it's a bad cat.

 

I figured because it's pending and comes and goes. Rear manifold I'm guessing?

 

Bank 1.

 

Hey guys, quick question, i must be blind but, i putt in my cattman headers+Y-pipe the other day on my 5.5 and of course the stock header+y-pipe has 4 o2 sensors i was wondering what i should do with the 4th o2 sensor, is there some way to delete it or? I was just thinking of wiring it into another o2 sensor so then it would read off that, help anyone?

 

Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck

 

I'd leave it disconnected for at least 30 minutes, but I am not sure what the official waiting time is. That would be in the FSM.

You stated how expensive the circuit board was. The highest chance of if being damaged is during removal or re-installation, which also happens to be a pain. So you want to minimize the number of times you do that. How? Replace all the bulbs in the instrument cluster when you have it open. All of them. The illumination lights, and all the bulbs for the idiot lights.

The bulbs are white, and the color is determined by the colored piece of plastic the light shines through.

Again, moving bulbs around is false economy. Spend the $12, get all the bulbs, and install them all.

 

Where did you find the 3rd O2 sensor bung?

 

Sup everyone. Hope you all having a good day. Quick question i just noticed my cranck shaft pulley wobbles a little (hardly noticable) while running. Should i worry or you think it could just need to tighyten the nut? No noide either. Only from the ac compressor a little while running

 

I believe there's a bearing on that pulley, but someone else can keep me honest on that.

 

There's 3 up front and one in the rear, red, white, blue then a blue on the firewall side

 

Just checked it. The 19mm nut is tight. Just to clear up its the bigger pulley which has the smaller one behind it that holds the power steering belt. If indeed theres a bearing therr i guess its on its way out. Just replaced my lower control arms to! I guess with 193k its time this small things start going bad. Thx for thr reply dj!

 

Lol yea, 193k and the auxiliary stuff will go.

But the engine will stay strong!

 

The harmonic balancer (the crankshaft pulley as you call it) is going bad. there is a rubber sleeve that is drying out and failing, causing the wobble. There is nothing you can do except replace it.

 

Oh ok. So the harmonic balancer (thx!) is sold ready to replaced? And how much longer u think i can get out of it? Im going on a road trip tomorrow. I changed my belts about 3 minths ago and there was no wobbling. Therefore i would venture to say its on its initial stages. Thx for the info guys!

 

The belt pulleys are pressed on to the harmonic balancer, so what you get is a complete unit ready to put on and go.

As far as how long you can drive the car right now, it's impossible to make any guarantee. Most of the time you can go for months, but an extended road trip is tougher than short trips.

 

Oh ok. Thx for the info! I took a quick look at it at rockauto theres one for $102. Will most probably change it next week.

 

Ok, what did you do with the other 3 sensors?

Cattman only has 2 bungs (1 per bank).

I assume you put your primaries in each bank (baby blue) , so what happened to the 3rd sensor since you said you only had 1 lacking to take care of?

 

I just have it hanging under the bay lol idk what to do with it yet

 

My car has been making a chatter/rattle noise from under the hood for about a week now. I don't think its my valves because it only does it every once in a while. I can't figure out what it is. It does it more when the engine isn't warmed up. Anyone know what might be wrong? Thanks.

 

Quick question. I usually put castrol atf in my tranny. Would it make any diffrrence in durability and/or performance switching to mobile 1 synthetic atf?

 

I've searched around the forum/google, but could not find an answer to my question.

The buttons of where you want air to blow on my climate controls (top vents, floor, defroster, etc) and the fan speed selector are out. (manual controls by the way)

Are there any plug and plug LEDs (probably white) that I could use?

Also, is this just opening the climate controls up, unscrewing the old bulbs and putting the new ones in?

Thanks

 

My max has a similar problem. I did open it up and they were tiny blue bulbs that screw on a circuit board. However the problem was not the bulbs but the contacts with the circuit board that were kinda burned. I fooled around with them and got them back on except the ref and blue part (temperature gauge). If u wanna open it up pop the central vent out and theres a screw there. Then the trim around the temperature and radio consol. If i remember correctly both temp consol and radii slide out. As to the led question i do not know. I had spare bulbs for that that i got fron a gle in a junk yard.

 

Search for led writeups tunermax and myself detailed it completly

 

Your konfobulater was damaged easy fix is wire in ecu out of a 1964 opel then send your rims to me to get defobulated

 

Your timing chain maybe smacking the cover.

 

I think you're cracking under the pressure, buddy.

 

 

How is the factory components in a 5.5 w/ bose wired?

 

Amp to woofer, split, with an inline crossover on the tweeter line.

 

If it is, what would cause that?

 

Worn out guides.

 

Hey all,

I've got a 2003 Maxima (automatic trans) that has been acting up lately. Here are a few problems:

--while driving on the highway for some distance, the accelerator pedal will suddenly feel loose and then you'll hear the engine roar like I was stepping on the gas while it was still in park. I usually just step off the accelerator for a couple of seconds then it goes back to normal.

--the car would sometimes jerk/hiccup when I change gears

--rattling and slight grinding sound, but you don't feel any vibration

Anyway, took it to my mechanic which I trust (at least I used to) and he told me I've got two busted motor mounts. One is closer to the steering wheel area and the other on the passenger side. He is looking at getting those two pieces for $350 and then tacking $80 for labor. Could motor mounts really cause this and is that a fair price?

Thanks in advance. Also, is bumping threads frowned upon?

 

Hello all, first time asking a question, but figured all the advice that has been given and used (by me and others) I would give it a go and ask away!

Here is the problem: It has been happening about a week or so maybe a little longer. When ever driving usually worse in the mornings when car is cold, I can rev up (usually see tach getting into the 4k or 5k stage) and take off but it is slow moving but once into third gear car will accelerate fine (still revving a little high 4k) but will get down the road fine.
In the afternoon maybe once its warm out car will accelerate normally with our having to really get on the gas.

Wondering could I need to replace the clutch and if so what brand is usually a good one? This is supposed to be my wife's car, but I do most of the driving in it (go figure ) Whenever I get in and I need to go I wanna go without much delay, this car is super fast when it wants to be, but I don't want to have it sit around while I have mechanics tell me what they "think" is wrong. Wondering if I would need to check and see if my tranny fluid is low or something.

A little background for you so you know what I am dealing with: 00 maxima SE, 5spd, had the clutch system refilled and bled about 3 months ago, came out one morning and the master was dry, took it to a shop and told them refill and bleed and it been driving fine since--I probably need to replace the slave cylinder and figured if I have to replace the clutch will do that at the same time--

Have much respect for this forum and all it entails, Thanks in advance for all the input with my problem.

 

Is that dangerous or expensive to fix?

 

my 2003 maxima se 6mt has the ses light on. the code is p0300 random misfire. the car burns oil like no other and is not smooth due to the misfire. i need help. any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated. thanks.

 

Put new spark plugs and test your coil packs with multi meter. That's where I would start.

 

Depends. The timing chain rattle caused by worn out guides can be dealt with and usually is not an "oh crap" immediate replacement. Folks go for thousands of miles with it like that.

Replacing that stuff at a shop will obviously be more $$$$$ than DIY but...

No matter how you choose to do it, may as well replace the water pump, thermostat and flush your cooling system while you're there.

 

hey guys, i just bought a 01 gle maxima and i LOVE IT, black on black, i just registered but been searching and lurking around here for a while. looking for any advice, thanks in advance.