I had the same problem and it ended up being one of my coils. Change your spark plugs to try and get rid of the mis or even just as maintenance, but most likely one (or more) of your coils is going..

 

You're welcome! You'll be surprised how much you're gonna learn from these guys! Make sure you look at the DIY, maintenance, and 5th gen modifications stickies on top. They have a bunch of links and archived posts of how to fix stuff.
Yeah, my brother has clear sides on his '01. I'm thinkin about getting smoked ones, but I don't mind the stocks, besides I'm in the middle of spending in the exhaust.

 

It is common to have the front stabilizer bar links cause this type of noise. I have replaced mine twice on my 02

http://www.google.ca/search?q=maxima...w=1662&bih=810

 

Thanks guys. I located in northern va Manassas. Rblower! I am familiar with cars and work at a body shop and get a good price on parts. I will start with thinking if I want to attention to replace plugs and coils myself. That intake appears to be a pain in the ***. But I always get threw whatever so I am thinking of attempting myself. We will see. Ill keep you guys posted. Thx for the help.

 

I have had this problem with 2 of my maximas. If your plugs have not been changed recently, change them and see if it makes a difference. But it is probably a coil that is going bad. You have to either test it to find out which one is bad or wait until it is dead and throws a code

 

Hello everyone I'm a newbie here, but no time for chit chat atm.

So basically, when my engine is cold (has been sitting for a little while), if I attempt to start my car the engine will turn over and the car would appear to start, but after about a half a second the engine will just die. The only way my car will start is if I hold the gas down for a few seconds and let the engine work for a little. It safely idles at around 800RPM when I finally get the engine to stay on. No reving, no other stalling (so far), just that trouble starting up and everything else seems to be alright after I get the car going.

My CEL is on, reading P0505 on the reader. I understand that this is an Idle Air Control malfunction, most likely pointing to the IACV. I also understand that if the IACV goes bad, the ECU will most likely short circuit and need to be replaced (a $1400 job at the Nissan dealership). I'm just not sure if it's to that extreme yet since my car doesn't stall, rides and shifts smoothly, etc. and I know there isn't really an easy way to diagnose a bad ECU either.

Should I replace the IACV before I do anything else? Should I replace anything else? I heard from a friend that the Camshaft Position Sensor could also be malfunctioning.

I know I'm not the only one with this problem, and I've read up a lot on it, but I seem to be the only one with this issue where the ONLY visible issue is starting the car.

 

Take car of the P0505 IACV before the problem gets worse.

step 1 - click on link and download the FSM http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2001

step 2 - get your ohmmeter out and set to measure less than 100 ohms.

step 3 - in section EC turn to page 436 and perform the test in the 2nd box, test # 8.

follow the manual based on what you find. It might be better if you start reading on page 426 before you jump to page 436.

 

So would installing a resistor be a good idea? I let my pops drive it one day and when he used the turn signal the light itself was blinking rapidly as well. Only the front right and rear left.

 

a resistor does you no good if your bulbs are burned out.

Did you add LEDs in the turn signals at all?

 

From what I have read, this recall has put a dent in the theft of the 5.5 gen headlights. I woudl check to be sure that the headlight recall was performed before I got too confident, however.

 

2000 max GXE auto
ive changed starter
ignition switch
battery post connections
all ignition switch/engine control fuses
battery isnt even a year old and works fine


im not sure if there is a starter relay other than the inhibitor im pulling my hair out trying to figure this out hope someone has an idea

turn the key and all it does is click once the click seems to be coming from both sides of my dash

i can jump the silonoids and the car fires up but dies when i hit the gas or if i leave it running for 20-30 seconds

 

No, CEL when you turn the key?

 

So i bought an 03 Maxima w/ 137,000 was oil burner changed oil saw plugs were all oily.. Stated getting random misfire then loud hissin sound like plugged exhaust noticed little to no exhaust coming from tailpipe. So i got it home did comproseeion test and cyl #4 only had 100 rest were 150+ only checked fron cyls but ifthere bad is irrelevant motor needs be rebuild/replaced. Found a 03 90k motor for $1000 and quoted $1000 in labor for 17 hours. My question is cause i didnt get cats off to check because it is such a pita but my flex did blow out during this so thinking def a clogged cat as well? was going gut cats and buy new wsp y pipe this sound like a logical work around? i cant afford cattman headers on top of engine cost so????

 

Nope, just normal bulbs. Going to replace the bulbs and see if that changes anything. Also, do you know of any good LED bulbs? Ive seen these alternating ones where when normal driving they are white LEDS and when using the turn signal they flash amber instead. Since the housing Im going to get wont have the amber plastic I was thinking of getting these.

 

Sounds like you have 2 problems, a starting problem and a won't stay running problem. I'm only going to address the starter because until you can crank the engine, nothing else matters. Also, I am assuming your car has an auto trans because you said you played with an inhibitor relay.

The clicks you hear can be from various relays under the dash that have nothing to do with the starter. The solenoid on the starter will make a click, but that is not under the dash as I'm sure you know. Is the starter relay making a click? Connect a test light (or volt meter) to the starter solenoid wire at the starter. Then turn the ignition key to the start position. The test light should light up or the voltmeter should show 12 volts. If you do, the starter has a problem. I'm thinking that you won't have 12 volts.

No 12 volts at the solenoid could be several things. Blown fuse # 20 (middle row, one on the right end). A problem with your park/neutral switch on the transmission - try putting the transmission shift lever in neutral and see if the starter cranks. The inhibitor relay could be bad, the ignition switch could be bad or you could have a wiring problem.

Start by checking the fuse. If that is OK then we'll have to get a test light (or voltmeter) and see where the voltage gets "lost" on its way to the starter solenoid.

 

I would check for a vacuum leak. Vacuum line, or a problem that occurred with mith mine and my brother's car was that the accordion hose that comes off the throttle body was cracked. Mine was actually ripped from the underside, so I didn't notice it until I took off the intake system to clean the tb.

 

To add to the above post, it could have something to do with the PCV system, valve, hose pinched/ripped, etc.

 

Hey im new to this forum and I have a couple of questions i wish some members can help me out with.

I rececently purchase a 02 maxima 6spd manual with 126k and unfortunatly its a oil burner

I had a few questions bout this issue like, What is the best oil i can use that the car wont burn as fast? Im currently using valvoline max life 10w40 and it has burned it real fast(so far it has burned two extra quarts of oil in less then 600miles). I noticed the car burns the oil faster when driven hard. I know there are many threads regarding which is the best oil but non of those threads really say which one is the best to use.

Also the car has a check engine light for p0300 multiple cilinder misfire, i was thinking it might be the spark plugs since it has some autolite ones that look old already. But i aint sure if that can trigger that code. The car did had a p0340 code but i already replace the cam sensor and that code went away.

My last question is has any body replaced the pcv valve and rear valve cover and noticed a decrease in oil consumption? Replacing the pcv valve & cover are my next steps in trying to reduce the oil burning issue. Im also thinking of installing a oil catch can.

Im really trying to keep this car for a while but i dont want it to burn as much oil since i am hard driver

Hope someone can help me Thanks

 

Sounds like you're on the right track. New rear VC comes with PCV valve, get the 6th gen cover for cheap. I suggest www.nissanpartsasap.com for oem parts for the cheap, call them is best bet. Go ahead and change plugs, NGK Plats are good, but there are other options. May be a good time to install a phenolic spacer kit as well!

Check and make sure you're not losing oil underneath the car, rear or front seal, lower oil pan (rust issues), and around the oil cooler (consistent leak point).

I run 10w40 and it helped some, but I'm aggressive driver as well. Don't run synthetic, no other reason than to just save money if you're running through it that fast at the moment. You can go thicker, but it will be tough finding in stores and I recommend great care if you choose to go that route. I don't recommend looking at thicker oil till you address the maintenance issues identified, just to give you a more accurate picture of what your oil "burning" actually is.

Oh, letting car warm up when cold will help as well.

 

First Thanks for the fast reply..

I was planning on buying one form a 6th gen maxima, since i heard there cheaper and better.

As far as leaks go the only leak i saw was the front valve cover but, other from that i didnt find any other leaks. Althought the lower oil pan does look rusty it doesnt show any signs of it leaking. An i never seen any oil in my garage so i doubt the car leaks oil from any other place.

I was thinking of the spacer but im low on budget with school bills and the parts for this car arent cheap, but i will be getting them in the future.

An what brand of oil do you use? im planning on switching to the regular valvoline 10w40. By the way does your maxima burn oil? An how much does it burn?


Im used to letting my car's warm up during winter for atleast 5mnts, and i even let them warm up for 10mnts when its real cold.

Thanks Again.

 

i use castrol titanium 5w-20 and my engine runs like its brand new. 10w-40 is too thick and just covers up problems.

make sure your PCV valve has a gasket on it. Mine did not and caused an oil burning issue

also my rear valve cover was leaking. I was burning just as much as you, and now I burn/lose none and still using 5w-20. I know its thin, but it lubricates better and in my opinion my engine runs better. I have tried many oils

i actually just replaced my rear valve cover with a 6th gen and it went flawlessly. I also have a 2002. saved a bunch of cash. came with pcv

 

2012max: First, aviation (aka Planecrash) is not a reliable person to get info from so take his feedback as you would a small child!

10w40 is not "too" thick. But again, I wouldn't go thicker especially not until you get other repairs done. Looks like you've got a good head on your shoulders! Good luck!

Wanted to add, read up through the search function on the misfire code and tracking it down. It may be cylinder 6 (iirc that's the right rear) where oil is prone to collecting. There should be good info on tracking the misfire so you can replace a coil if needed while the intake is off the car.

 

ok guys i am coming to the pros for help. here it goes my maxima is a great car i have owed it since new done all the repairs my self it has 236,000 on it and owes me nothing. so the other day i jump in the car and it wont idle no codes no lights just wont idle so i read up a little and change out the IAC thinking maybe it is carboned up. put new IAC on that i bought on ebay it came in and is made in japan not china. put it on with new gaskets ect. car now only idels when warm and it is idleing at maybe 4-500 rpms then some times it is above 1000 and now i have a IAC code ? i didnt have any codes before the new IAC please help i am at a loss

 

Calm down... write a few complete sentences. Then somebody can help

 

Did you do an idle relearn?

 

i did not how do you do the relearn so many people are all over the place on the relearn

 

This could easily be MAF related. Avoid ebay. You can clean your MAF easily. This is assuming the idle relearn is useless.

Side note: If you write a little more clearly and maturely, people will be less inclind to blow you off and you will get help....this is not just a maxima forums side note.

 

Look in the write-up thread at the top (it is one of the sticky threads). You'll find the idle re-learn procedure in there.

Alternatively, you can go to factory service manual (FSM) and follow the procedure in there, but it is the same as what you will find in the sticky.

You can download the FSM from the web link below. The idle re-learn procedure should be in the EC section.

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/

 

Well thanks for the heads up "Chris Gregg" , but since i dont know anyone in this forums i wont comment.

As far as using 10w40 i have always used it in all the cars i have own, i currently have a 96 altima that has like 3 different oil leaks an it only uses like half a quart every 1000k. An i have own it for 6yrs so i know 10w40 is not that thick.

The reason i asked about which oil you guys would reccomend is because i have never had a car that burned oil. So i was unsure of which way to head when it came to which oil to use.

I did check the front coils and they all seems fine so when i replaced the rear valve cover and spark plugs i will swap the front coils for the rear.

An "Aviation005" isnt 5w20 extremely thin? I think you are the first that I hear using 5w20.
An which gasket on the pcv valve are you talking bout? I might not have to worry bout the pcv gasket since i just ordered a 6th gen valve cover with pcv valve included.

Thanks to both of you.

 

Now that the weather here is well below 0* I'm having problems with the door lock on the driver's door and was wondering if anyone had some answers.

Apparently there is no physical connection between the key and the door lock, so I'm assuming the actuator handles the lock/latch duties. I can turn the key multiple times (you can hear the actuator run) and it doesn't unlock the door. Once in a while I get lucky and it will unlock the door but the lock/latch sticks open and the door won't latch shut. Either way, it's pissing me off.

I've done a little searching but didn't find much. If anyone has any ideas or links to known solutions I would appreciate it.

 

When you turn the key, there is a solenoid that pulls or pushes on a rod that goes to the lock mechanism. Since you hear the solenoid, and that the door will unlock sometimes, means that all the electrical and mechanical connections are in place.

What is most likely happening is that the various pivot points and sliding parts need either cleaning and/or lubrication. This includes the rods, the solenoid and the actual latch in the side of the door. You will have to open the door up and check all this stuff out.

 

Thanks for the info, I'll start there and check back if it still doesn't work. Thanks again for chiming in.

 

i have an 01 maxima with a 5 speed LSD transmission. Its the 20th anniversary edition. Ive been told that if i replace the transmission that i have to get the exact 1 form another 20th anniversary edition.. i was wondering if anyone here could tell me what other transmissions may fit in my 01 maxima. im asking this because so far i havent been able to locate teh transmission in any junkyard......... i would appreciate any feedback.. thanks....

 

i belive u can us any 5speed tranny. from 00 to 01. if u use the 95-99 5speed tranny u will need to get 4th gen shiftlinage because the tranny sits farther up on the 4th gen. so the shift linage will be wrong. the only diff is the shifter wont be in the middle it will be alittle forward or little back of the shift bezzel. but i do believe u can use any 5speed tranny. just the lsd is better then the other ones. i wouldnt no i dont have and never been in a car with lsd. im trying to get my hands on one to rebuild and put in when i swap my motor.

if u dont mind me askin why are u looking for a new tranny?

 

Cant hurt to look over the FSM also.

 

Ihave an 03 maxima se. the transmition intermitantly will get stuck in third gear. this will happen for a few days them oll of a sudden shift into overdrive. there is no od button as the shifter shifts from 3rd gear to od. anyone know vof a quick fix, or had the same problem?

 

Have you checked the transmission oil level? How many miles are on the car? Has the oil been changed recently/ever?

 

You can also look in the AT section of the FSM for the diagnostic procedure.

 

My car started stalling short after it started about 9 months ago. The RPM would drop to 300 and it then stalls. I decided to try and fix it, here are my steps:

1. Opened Throttle Body and clean big valve and gunk in bottom, I did not spray inside; after that it seemed to take even longer to start, ugh!
2. Read the codes and found a P0340 Camshaft Sensor for Sensor A on Bank 1
3. Disconnected each camshaft sensor one at a time and determined it was the firewall side sensor
4. The connector was covered in oily dirt, I cleaned it but did not test it as I kinda don't know how
5. Bought a cheap sensor, it didn't help
6. Bought the Nissan version, it didn't help

I am at a loss, I ready to replace all sensors, both crank, both cam. Could a lose timing chain cause this? Could I have done something when I cleaned that big valve? How about valve timing sensors? I have 160k on the car. Any ideas?

I am reading http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/2002/EC.pdf and I am trying to borrow an oscilloscope, again I am not good at testing to ground, looking for shorts, etc.

 

I have a 2001 GLE with over 214,000 miles. Car works very well. Yesterday I replace the Bank 1, Sensor 1 Oxygen sensor. Today I took my car to a local State of New Jersey Inspection station. The inspector said that I failed, and handed me a printout which says: "Overall Readiness Result: Fail". What does this mean? In doing a bit of Google searching, I find some who say that the OBD computer has to re-learn my car. That it should be driven a few hundred miles on the highway, at a constant speed of 50+mph. Is their anything to that? What must I do to pass State inspection with this type of failure? The OBD detail says; Catalytic Converter~ NOT READY, Oxygen Sensors! NOT READY. All other items under; OBD System- Readiness Status say; either READY or UNSUPPORTED. Under Primary Emission Test Performance: OBD- FAIL and in the detail it says, Overall Readiness Result: FAIL, All others say; PASS.

HELP!!!!