Hope this is the right place to ask this, done some searching but had no luck. What are the differences between the a32 and a33 front hub carriers if any? Also I'm looking for some detailed pictures of a a33 front hub carrier especially where the abs sensor goes in and if the abs ring is on the cv or the hub itself. If anyone has a hub carrier out of a car that would be great, but pictures of one still on the car would be good. Thanks

It's good that you don't have the security lockout, that is kinds pricey.

Your comment that you hear a spinning sound could be the key to this. I'm wondering if the starter motor is spinning but the gear on the starter is not engaging the flywheel. i.e., bad Bendix drive. Rebuilt starters have lots of problems and it's not unusual to have to get a 2nd or 3rd one before you are up and running.

Go fight the NAPA place for another starter.

Hey guys I have a few questions. I have a 01 SE and when I start the car, it starts, but dies immediately afterwards unless I rev it a bit. I have a remote start as well, and it doesnt die when I use that, only with the turn key. This has never happened before, but then again I havent driven it in this cold weather before either. (Below freezing with winds making it close to 5 F). What can it be? I was thinking it may be the alternator or perhaps starter (recently had the starter changed--about 3 months ago-- but havent had a problem before). Also, the left half of my dash doesnt light up either. Any thoughts and ideas on both situations? Car was in an accident recently and I got it repaired (front driver side) only started after that. I highly doubt the mechanic had anything to do with it though because it was just a body shop. Thanks in advanced

i have a 03 maxima and the engine just went south i see lots of newer engines for FWD cars for sale but not many of the 02-03 maxima engines i need any help on what engines are a direct swap like the 350Z engine i heard the 04 is a direct swap but not sure

Have 01 maxima 5spd se, have not checked the trans fluid and don't know if this would affect whats wrong. I seem to not have much pressure meaning the clutch pedal goes to the floor very easily and comes up fine just in every gear 50/50 grinds or goes in smooth and for 2nd gear its sometimes just doesn't want to go in even tho it always feels like it does and that 50/50 also, all the gears can shift smooth but can also do a 180 and do whats mentioned above. Ive bleed the clutch and slave cylinder seems to be working. When I checked underneath seems to be either clutch fluid or trans fluid, seems like clutch by its not as thick as trans fluid, seems to have a leak with the axle seals in the trans but haven't check other lines to see for other leaks yet.

What should I check out, could it be the master cylinder, could it be low trans fluid for the not going to 2nd gear or little grind in every gear or could the just be the low pressure, it just seems to me a clutch problem because not much pressure when trying to engage and disengage and having to put it all the way to the floor.

I could be wrong by all my assumptions just putting it out there what I think and if its wrong that's fine just tell me how to fix the problem or what to start with because I don't like the idea of driving around with these problems.

Thanks

I have a 2000 maxima 3.0, yesterday it started dying on me at idle, I kept it revved up enough to get it home and park it. I went out about 30 minutes later and it started and idled fine for about 5 minutes then it started idling from 1500 to 2000 back and forth. It runs and drives find just has this idleing problem and is sucking in ALOT of air. I took the IAC off the throttle body and cleaned it but no luck. Can someone please tell me if this is the MAF for sure?

I would suspect a faulty IACV if its bouncing around. Better get it fixed quick befor you fry your ECU. Get it properly diagnosed by someone or downooad the FSM and do it yourself befor replacing it though .

Would the car still be driving and running fine with a fried ECU?

idle speed sensor? throttle sensor? thermostat? it can be anything like that. Water in your intake, or some in your exhaust or something like that.

couldn't it be the alternator charging at idle after not starting for a while?

I doubt it's the alternator because I drove the car for about 15 minutes and it was still doing it when I pulled back in

Not any immediate help, but wanted to say "Hi" neighbor.

It would be fine. Just will not hold the idle if it is the idle chip that burnt.
You didn't mention if your car is auto or manual. There might be slightly different path for them to track the problem.

All below can be found through the search...

DOES THE CAR THROW IN A SES LIGHT? If so, get it scanned to know what you are dealing with


In auto - check if you still have the original motor mounts, if so - disconnect them (they are electronically controlled). Should be 2 brown plugs.

For either transmission - check if you have any leaks from IACV - gasket might be bad or it is not tight to throttle body. Also check the small hoses and all the connectors.

And again, if you use site search you will be able to find the diagnostics procedure to determine which part failed.

2000 Nissan Maxima GLE

So, I have been struggling with an intermittent starting problem on my 2000 Nissan Maxima. What started out as a occasional problem starting has turned into a 1 in 20 chance of starting with a little luck and perseverance.

I have had the car into 4 mechanics including the local Nissan dealership where I live and have received no solution and some hefty bills for labor and diagnostic.

The Maxima will crank and crank until the starter dies if I let it, but will only occasionally start. I am nearing my wits end (and my wallets) trying to deduce the problem with it. I'm very sorry for being that guy that just shows up at the car forum when he has a problem but at this point, I have very little left and any help would be appreciated.

Multiple mechanics have come to the same conclusion. When starting the engine, the plugs will fire once, but will not fire on repeated revolutions. After doing my own research, I had thought that maybe it was the ignition switch or fuel regulator, however I have been told that the ECU gets power so it shouldn't be the switch and the fuel delivery is just fine in it.
The following was done by the first couple mechanics:

Crankshaft and both Camshaft sensors have been changed.
Computer tests ok.
Fuel pump is fine.
All grounds are clean and tight.
Wiring harness from computer to coils test ok

And then I was recommended to bring it to the dealer where I feel they took advantage of me, but I was the idiot that let them, so what do I say.
The dealership said I had an odd air/fuel mixture and had a leaking manifold gasket, which may be causing my problem. They fixed it for me. Didn't fix the problem.

And then they did 4-5 hours of labor and diagnostics saying they could get to the bottom of it and came back with nothing and said that the next step would be to pull the transmission and clean the grounds between the transmission and engine. When I asked if it would fix it, they said it was a "possibility" but they didn't have a concrete answer. So I didn't do it, paid their outrageous bill and left.

I'm out of options. I'm just shooting this out there, hoping someone has had a similar problem or has any idea what I should look at.

Thank you,

1. While it may help deter HID theft, it may result in the thieves causing more damage to your car while trying to get the lights out than if you did not have the data dots.

2. Its not so much leaks, but oil burning. Look through the old threads and you'll find plenty of these discussions. Here's one to start you off:

Your car IS fwd.

350z won't fit without modification to the intake manifold. And transmission considering it's rwd.

02-08 engines are swappable.

Have you resolved this? I had similar issue and was resolved with better ground. check your ground connections and make sure the left side is properly grounded.

Ground the brown wire with yellow stripe in the secondary radio harness.

i scanned my Nissan Maxima 2000 model and these codes where found- P0115, P0325 and P0135. What will i do and where would i forund or see them in my engine?...thanks

Start Here
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/2000/

my car stalled on me after going through the auto car wash and i finally got it started back up and it wont hardly idle blowing black smoke out the exuast it is getting to much fuel any ideas need help please and also no check engine light on and no codes

Have you popped the hood yet?

Hello im new here but im from mississippi and was wondering if anyone on here is from mississippi with experience in baking headlights to clear the turn signal and also installing angel eyes any help would be nice or if anyone on here does it

http://www.shiftice.com/angel_eyes.html

Hi, I decided to change out my dome light and somehow blew a fuse :|
So I replaced the fuse and the lights work, but the open door & trunk indicator lights are on and the automatic locks don't work when the car is off. Super inconvenient to remember to open/lock your door before turning off the engine.
Any ideas on what might be wrong?

First I would like to say hello, I am new to this forum and am excited to now be a part of it. I just got my first Maxima last week, it is a 2000 GLE with 98,000 miles on it. I am having a few issues with it right off the bat unfortunately. The first day I purchased it I noticed that I was having an acceleration issue. When I accelerated hard the car would jerk continuously until I let off the gas a bit. It was weird to me because if I accelerated steadily there were no issues. It ran great as long as I didn't do any hard accelerating. The next day I went out to start it up and it acted as if it was going to start up but the tachometer would go up and fall down and the car shut off. I tried it again and the same thing happened. The third time I tried it I gave it a little gas and it started and stayed on. I tried to let the car warm up since it was a cold morning and then after awhile it started idling rough and shut off. I managed to get it going and out on the road and once again it ran perfect and didn't even have the acceleration problem I was having. I drove 80 miles and no check engine light. I took it to an inspection center (New Jersey) and it failed due to a ODB connection or something like that. they said basically it wouldn't connect to their computer. I took it to my mechanic and he was very busy and didn't get a chance to look at it but based on the issues I told him he said that it sounds like I need to replace the Idle Air Control Valve and that it is a common issue on these cars. I was wondering if anyone has had this issue and if it sounds like that may be the problem? If that is what it is, is it a big deal? I read somewhere that the IACV could damage the ECU in this model. How true is that and how could I know if it is just the IACV or worse.

If the IACV is bad, you should have a check engine light with the code P0505. Usually a bad IACV causes the engine idle to be very erratic, between as high as 2k and dying. There is an electric motor in the IACV that shorts, and that can cause a transistor in the ECU to short.

I am not sure that your IACV is bad. Many people have had problems due to deposits building up around the throttle plate that is in the IACV. Cleaning the air passage could help you out. But I don't believe that the IACV would be the cause of your acceleration problem.

The problem at the inspection station could be a blown fuse. One of the pins in the OBD connector has to have 12 volts on it. It is fuse #12 (10 amp). It is in the middle row of fuses, the first one on the left end.

Which fuse was it? Fuse #12 (middle row, 1st one on the left) is used by the door locks. But it is also used by a bunch of other things like the clock, door chime and more. The dome light and door locks are controlled by the SECU box. Maybe if you disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes, maybe the SECU will be reset.

So in your opinion I have three separate issues:a fuse, dirty throttle plate, and whatever caused the acceleration problem? Its idle hasn't been erratic, it has been pretty consistent. I have a problem starting without pushing the gas pedal anytime the car has been sitting for a few hours and it idles hard and tries to cut off when I idle after the first start up of the day. Other than that it idles normally. I haven't seen idle high at all. Like I was saying the acceleration problem hasn't happen since that first day. That makes me really nervous tho because something had to cause it and until it happens again I don't know if a mechanic would be able to diagnose it. Is there any chance my check engine light just isn't working? Can a bad coil cause the acceleration issues?

Oh and thanks for the response.

Is your SES light on? If so get a code reader and get the code. No sense wasting time speculating this or that, let's be sure of the problem. BTW, a bad IACV will turn SES on, so if it's not on then that may not be your problem.

No, I do not have a SES light on, but my mechanic looked at the car today and said it needs the IACV. I usually take his word for it, but it is strange that I am not getting any warning lights. I have driven close to 100 miles I would assume the light would kick on by now. I don't want to replace something for nothing. The acceleration problem seems to be gone, but the start up problem continues.

2 things -

First check the check engine light. I hate to say this, but a lot of people will take out the check engine light bulb when they are selling a car. When you turn the ignition switch to the on position, all the warning lights should be on as a lamp test. Even if the check engine light illuminates, take the car to an auto parts store such as autozone and ask then to read the codes. There are a few codes that do not turn on the check engine light.

Try cleaning the throttle body. Cleaning solvent is a lot cheaper that an IACV and it might fix your problem.

im replacing my worn out powerplant in my 03 max with a low mileage one from a 06 ive seen on here it can be done thru the top of car any hints tips or advice you guys can give me???? thanks

Your mechanic is right that some Maxima's do have IACV issues, however since he didn't even look at the car, and there isn't a code, I'd be leery a new one will solve your problems. To me, if you did have a bad IACV, not only would have have a code, but your car wouldn't have suddenly run good the other day after you finally got it going. If you want to do a somewhat quick check, you could pull the IACV and measure the 4 coils, all should be ~ 22 ohms. I would also remove and check the TPS, both switch and sensor, make sure the sensor resistance varies linearly and isn't monkeyed up, and that the switch switches short to open when turned. I'd also want to double check and make sure your TPS is properly calibrated per FSM with 2 mil and 6 mil shims. But I agree first things first, try to get access to a code reader, and as someone else posted, make sure the SES bulb lights up at turn on and goes off.

I think you are right. I don't think my SES/CHK E light is working. I looked when I started the car up and I didn't see any light of that nature. I am going to look into my book to confirm exactly where it should be located on my panel. I am going to try to take it to autozone or advanced today. I am starting to think it was a bad idea to buy this car.

So what you are saying is that if it was the IACV everytime I idle through out the day it would idle weird? Because the problem only happens at start-up and continues until right after start-up. Other than that the car seems as if it is fine.

There is a bolt on the passengers side tucked up by the center console. I cut the brown striped wire, spliced a speaker wire to it, and connected to that bolt. Maybe there's an easier way, but that's how I did it. Trip button works like a charm and it's tucked up out of the way.

01 3.0l 5spd

Background: had po505 repaired ecu replaced iacv twice, two reasons traded out the iacv, idle kept reving up and down and then after driving it for 40 mins then let it sit for a little bit started it a couple times, came out hours later and start then die. replaced iacv again cleaned connectors put everything back together start it up perfectly and idled at 1000rpms, didn't do the idle relearn yet but wasnt going up in down while idling like the other iacv. the second time i started it, it went to idle then bogged down and caught itself and went back to 1000rpms to idle. while idling i have a raw gas smell with white/mixed grey smoke. shut it off then 20 mins later started it up bogged again almost didnt catch itself but did and went up to 1000 again and then i put it in gear and gave it gas it died. now doing the same thing before replacing the second new iacv start then die. the only difference now between the second new iacv and the first was the revving up and down and rpms revved between 1500 to 1700, just up and down.

It seem when i unhook the battery the car of course resets so starts up fine but once i give it gas to drive it dies and from then on starts and dies unless i give it gas, but i have to give it gas to drive it, as long as the rpms are up it will drive but under 1200 or 1000 it dies. Just drove it for 10 mins trying to throw a code because with the po505 it only took that long to throw it but if I need to drive it longer let me know

any suggestions or any ideas would help, I'm stuck

Could someone help me? The console power outlet is no longer working (a penny way in the outlet). I replaced the fuse under the dash and the front outlet is working, but the console outlet still doesn't work. Is there another fuse that requires replacing?

I think they are the same fuse but one of them needs the key to be on to work, or some wacky crap like that, IIRC.

Are you checking it with the key on?