I do hate for this to be my first post here, but I'm kind of at my wits end.

lately I've been having problems shifting into 5th, 6th, and reverse when the temp is 50F or more. It's been temperamental getting into reverse since I bought it. Which was before the winter, so I never had that much problems shifting, save for the few days it was warm.

It seems to be more likely once the car is up to temp as well. If I pull over and let it sit for 15 minutes or so, It acts completely fine. However the longer it runs the more 2nd and 3rd get temperamental too. They can be dealt with.

Generally, I would just live with it. 4th is more than fine for getting around town, but with going back to school soon. I really don't wish to be stranded.

Thanks ahead.

 

Just wondering if 99' eibachs would work on my 2001 20th AE

 

No

 

When I look up P/N's for caliper bolt/slide pins, they are same for front and rear. But when I look at aftermarket ones, pics show different pins for front and rear.
Can someone confirm that they should be the same?

 

I'm showing the same Nissan PN for slide pins and bolts, front and rear.

 

Hi everyone,

So i have an 02 6 speed. There is seems to be a whining/whistling sound coming from the engine bay ONLY WHEN I ACCELERATE IN GEAR.

If i rev the car, no noise. It only happens at certain speeds(such as 40 mph in 4th, 5th, and 6th). Doesnt happen at lower speeds (1st/2nd).

I have uploaded a video to give you a visual. In the video I am alternating between accelerating/not accelerating. The noise is pretty audible.


Please let me know what this is. I read it might be the bearings in the transmission so I'm a little worried.

 

^ video is private

 

Sorry! Okay heres the video of the noise. Notice it only happens WOT in gear.

I only have a GAB intake and STS. No other mods.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H7NiF...ature=youtu.be

 

While tracking down my cars p1143 code I checked the o2 sensor fuse under the dash. While
I was at it I checked all the fuses by taking them out 1 by 1 for a visual inspection. All fuses
were good. After reinserting the last one i felt like taking a break from tracking down my
p1143 troubles so I immediately start my car to go grab a coffee but it wont shift out of park.
Luckily the manual shift release button let me go get my coffee. Plus the door ajar and trunk open
lights were lit up on the dash even though they're all actually closed. And lastly, the trunk release
button doesnt work but the fuel door button right next to it does work. What could I have possibly
messed up just by taking each fuse out individually to inspect. I compared the fuses with the fuse
chart three times to confirm every one was in its proper placed. I have no idea what to check.

 

Check to ensure you put all the fuses back in their correct spot?...

 

There are 3 fuses involved with the shift lock, #2, #13 and #19.
Fuse #2 and #13 also power other things, #19 is strictly the shift lock.

A different fuse (#3) powers both the trunk opener and the fuel filler opener.

Seeing as to how different circuits, try wiggling the fuse panel and see if there is maybe a loose connection in the fuse panel. Inspecting the mentioned fuses again won't hurt.

 

To determine if you have a fed or Cali emissions car, there are multiple ways. Probably easiest is to take a look under your car. From the driver's side, look at the exhaust pipe right after the catalytic converter. If you see an O2 sensor, you have a fed emissions car. No O2 sensor equals Cali car.

Another way that does not require you to get down and dirty would be to look at the identification tag under the hood that is attached to the firewall. It is a silver aluminum plate located on the left side (driver's side) of the cruise control actuator. You will see the car's VIN number and right below that is a string of letters and numbers that starts with a B for Maxima, a C for Infiniti.
Count over to the 12th character from the left. V = Cali emissions, U = fed emissions and N = Canada.

See page 41 of the GI section of the service manual for more info.

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2000/GI.pdf

As for you exhaust problems, if your tail pipe and muffler and/or whatever is rusting out, all you can do is replace it. Normal maintenance.

 

im looking to build up my 2000 maxima, i want to supercharge it etc.. i was just wondering what are some good engine/ motor swaps i can use

 

All the info you need is right here... http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...to_forumsearch

 

 

Stickers is the first mod you should do...

In all seriousness though, elaborate "racing", and we will be able to provide more help... You want to race from red light to red light, or you want to track your car?

IMO, your mods should follow this logic...

1) tune up & maintenance
2) suspension / brakes / tires (for safety)
2) engine & power delivery (for speed)

 

I have a 5th gen I need a new system that sounds good. What kind is good?

 

I wanted to know why is there white smoke coming out of my muffler is it because to much oil in motor or spark plug not change which causing the piston to stress more ???????

 

1. Welcome to the forums.
2. Congratulations on joining Club Oil-Burners. Enjoy the perks of checking your oil at least monthly and adding as needed.

Fact is the 3.5 is simply prone to this issue. Not much you can do but monitor. However, if you've not done it, you should address any oil leaks such as typical with the rear valve cover.
My car burns oil too, about 2-5 mins of the morning after starting then she's fine. Out of curiosity, I tried the Lucas oil treatment (their stuff you add to the gas works well for me), but no change. I do run 10w-40. I've noticed little to no change in my oil burning. Others report 10w-40 helping.

Many threads on these issues. You will benifit greatly in browsing to get a full history of experiences.

 

White smoke! I would be smelling it lol.

 

It happens maybe 70 to 80% of the time but while sitting at a
light or otherwise stopped while in drive, my engine will like hiccup
or something. Don't know what the actual term for it is but I can feel
the car shake/stumble? but it only lasts a split
second then the car will idle normal for maybe 5 or sometimes 10 or
15 seconds and then that little hiccup happens again. Also the tach
drops just a little little bit when it happens. I would say 50 rpms.
But that is just as momentary and intermittent as the shake I can feel
when it happens. I can also hear it when this happens. And all this
only happens while in drive or reverse with foot on the brake. It has
never happened in park or nuetral. After 6 new oem plugs, 6 coils, 2 upstream o2
sensors, cleaning the MAF with CRC and a new air filter I began
looking for vac leaks. I tried carb cleaner and propane with no
success. Then I blocked the intake and tried the regulated air method.
I let in the regulated air through the IM where the hose leading to
the PCV valve normally goes. Not long after I heard the hissing coming
from the VIAS control solenoid valve or as the parts dept calls it the
valve assembly solenoid. Any way I sprayed a little soap on it and
it made a big a** bubble toward the right side of the unit like right
at the base of where the black ovalular thing sticks out so I know
that its not the hoses or nipples on the left end of the unit that are
leaking. So, does anyone know if this thing is supposed to let air escape? Or
What it could possibly be causing my weird idle situation?

 

Hey how do I post a picture?

 

http://forums.maxima.org/feedback-su...s-replies.html

 

Thankyou! Ill have to open a photobucket account on my next day off.. So anyone have any ideas about my dilemmas listed on the intro thread?
-Sean

 

I just use tinypic.com because its free.

 

hey everyone i bought a 02 6spd last year with only 59k on it. i love the car but i was wondering what i could do performance wise. its my daily driver so i dont want to have the car down too long. i installed a catback exhaust on it but thats it. also would it be safe to turbo it stock? if anyone has any advice it would be greatly appreciated

 

Turbo'ing will put it down for a LONG time. You want quick bolt ons? Phenolic spacers, block off plate, short ram intake. Getting current on maintenance is also a great way to recoupe power. 17 degree timing advance is another quick and easy mod.

 

the exhaust helped out a lot i know that. ive heard that phenolic spacers arent worth the hassle sometimes. i will definitely try the timing advancement. thanks for the advise

 

are there any car club/groups in the northern indiana area?

 

Here's something for starters.

http://forums.maxima.org/upper-midwe...or-thread.html

 

I do not know where to post this to get the most response. Would some please respond as to where is best. Can't figure out how to start a new thread, which I thought would be best. Thanks for any help.

 

For sale forum. Specifically the MAXIMAS FOR SALE/WTB thread.

 

so my 2000 nissan maxima shakes a lot when its braked, I did the mount test and it seems that the passenger side mount is torn, I have already bought a DEA replacement, but do not own a service manual and havent seen any DIY, I tried to search but all i come up with are the bottom mounts. If someone can please point me in the right direction.

 

I can point you to the FSM -

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/

You have a 2000 and there are 2 versions of the FSM. I refer to them as early production and late production. It seems to be mostly differences in the electrical system so for your motor mount, it wouldn't matter which one. But you should get the correct one for future reference.

The dividing point is determined by the car's VIN number. Look at the last 8 digits of the VIN number.

for VINs up to YT0 12236 or YT2 11680 or YT5 27429 or YT7 40491
Download the manual called the 2000 manual
on the front page of the FWD section, it reads
Edition: April 1999
Revision: June 2000
Publication No. SM0E-1A33U3

for VINs higher than the above, download the manual called the 2000.5 manual
On the front page of the FWD section, it reads
Edition: November 1999
Revision: January 2001
Publication No. SM0E-1A33U5

 

What's electrical got to do with the side passenger mount? Hell 4th gens A/T has electric MM's

 

he means that the biggest difference is in the electrical between the service manuals. BTW thank you very much dennis. and do you know what section the mounts would be in?

 

Thanks for clarifying what I was trying to say about manual differences. I need to do better so everyone understands me.

I can't find anything that is very specific for changing the mount. The only thing I have found is in the EM section (Engine Mechanical), under Engine Removal. There is a drawing on page 58 that points out the nuts and bolts that need to be removed, but there is no procedure for removing it.

 

I'm trying to track down the cause of a strange idle situation (post#16221) and can't get any detailed info on the operation of the VIAS solenoid. Does anyone know if the VIAS control solenoid assembly is supposed to make a constant, relatively loud hissing sound (like a vacuum leak) with the engine running? I dont really want to replace it unless I'm pretty sure it's faulty due to the cost of that little bastard.

 

No, that sound is not normal.

 

what's up guys I have stock HIDS on my car and i need to change the driver side one because of the ballast, it's not working no more I got a whole new set but the connection does not match they told me I have to rewire it because of the difference between stock and aftermarket HIDS and I'm also looking for a front lip 2002-2003 ! please help me

what's up guys I have stock HIDS on my car and i need to change the driver side one because of the ballast, it's not working no more I got a whole new set but the connection does not match they told me I have to rewire it because of the difference between stock and aftermarket HIDS and I'm also looking for a front lip 2002-2003 ! please help me