Check the classifieds on here, there are at least 1 SAFC and 1 VAFC FS.

What did the company state was the problem?

 

There are three orginal cats sitting on my garage floor. The headers hook up to the bottom Stillen center pipe. This pipe is where the downstream O2s are connected. The resonator hooks up to the middle end section of this pipe and it ends at the muffler. From the resonator back is custom.

 

Apex said the NEO is geared more toward V-tech engine parameters. I didn't get into the details. The guys I talked to was not much help either.

 

There are more than a few in the classifieds. I just saw three of them. They sell for ~$120-$140.

 

Thanks. Do you recommend the re-flash from TS before tuning?

 

That was my point, to get him to look for himself, thanks for the verification.
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...postcount=4170
I'm referring to the one that used to go here, right after the flex section where the red resonator is, that's where the main cat used to reside:



If I understood correctly, you have Stillen headers?
We've proved them wrong many a times on this VTEC Until I see someone that knows what they're doing fail a NEO install, I wont believe it.
BTW, what type of dyno machine was it?

 

If you don't spoon feed the answers to most (most, but not all) of the people posting in this thread, they just repeat the question with differant words.

 

I know, trying to get them to jog a little bit, but seems as if crawling works best.

 

The part that gets me laughing to myself is when they write questions about TS ECU's, RWD swaps...
This is a newbie thread!

 

I found a bunch in the classifieds. Good looking out....
Trying to find some threads about FP and FPR. Do you recommend upgrading FP or keeping it stock?

 

Have fun converting the A33B fuel line to return style. That is the only way I know of upping the FP via AFPR. SR did it, but I have yet to dive into th tank as of yet.

 

There are a couple that pop up on ebay every once and a while.

 

Jesus, you're a little late.

 

it was a dynojet winpep 7 from mild2wild motorsports in sincity, nv

 

Got the runfliles? What was the CF (correction factor)? Answer all my other questions, or at least acknowledge them, please.

 

CF: STD Smoothing: 5

 

If you had the DRF’s, you could tell me what the SAE #’s were. Also, sub 200 whp #’s w/ headers is unimpressive at best. Please acknowledge my other queries, i.e. cat condition, brand/type of headers, problems encountered re: NEO install, etc.

 

Pardon my ignorance, but what do you mean by SAE#s???
Like I stated earlier, there are no factory cats on my vehicle. They were replaced by the Stillen down pipe. Brand/type of headers are the only ones Stillen carries for 5.5 gens. Not entirely sure of problems encountered w/ Neo install. The shop said they couldn't get past the electronic throttle. It's possible they were simply incopetent. It's hard to find a reputable tuning shop in Sincity. All people know how to do here is gamble lol...
I've got the run files before the attempted Neo install. Can I e-mail them to you?

 

Throttle by wire is not a big deal, in fact, it might be easier since you have 4 feedback options (4 TPS/APPS). Ok, so, to me, it is still not clear, the Stillen headers, or any other header system, DO NOT replace the main cat. That's been my point all along.

Stop looking for a shop, spend some quality time on here and do your own mods.


PM me with the DRF's.

 

Now that I think of it. I did install a highflow main cat on it. It was so long ago, I didn't remember.

 

That will cause a false lean reading on the tailsniffer (dyno). Mine was reading high 13’s to low 15’s before I tossed my cat. Now it reads what my upstream WBO2 reads.

 

What do you think looks better clear side bumper light or the smoked lights....want to order some of ebay ...wanted to get some feed back from other members fiirst

 

black and majestic blue - smoked

all others - clear

really its about what you think looks good

 

I went to the dearler today. They read the ECU and found out the right rear ABS sensor is bad even though the ABS light doesn't come on at all. According to the service guy the sensor is off if either of the sensors are bad. He thinks the ABS sensor is acting like a light connection, so this could be the problem. The dearler wants me to install a new sensor which costs $150 plus labor. I was searching on one website that I could either clean the sensor or buy a new one. Does anyone know if this is easy to replace? Where is the exact location of right rear ABS sensor? Do I need a special tool? Anybody have any good how to sites with pictures, could you send me a link?

Thanks in advance.

 

Mine are crystal clear. It's a matter of preference...

 

Reeeeally....That piece of **** cost me $150 bucks.....That sucks!!! Welcome to the world of throwing money away on worthless mods I guess..

I gotta send you pics of the custom exhaust I did. Two tips out the back. One muffler. second pipe wrapped around underneath the spare tire. Sort of like how the 6 cyl camaros used to do it. I know it's not true dual exhaust because of the lack of the 2nd muffler. I tried, but the evap got in the way. The two tips look pretty sharp!!! Anyway, I'll take some pics.

 

I like your thinking now, looks as if we got you out of your shell.

 

I e-mailedvyou the run files. Did you get them?

 

hey guys, my parents told me to stay away from this car because of the amount of owners, but.. is it necessarily bad that a 2002 maxima has had 4 owners in 32,000 miles? the first record is listed as "personal," and they only had it for 4 days (until july 2002).. then it jumps all the way to 2005 where second owner is listed as a "lease" and had the car for 1 month.. the 3rd owner is listed as a "lease" in 2005 and had it for 1 year and 1 month.. and the 4th owner is apparently the dealer.. whats up wit this car? there's no records for this thing for a period of 3 years, and in its early life it was owned for very short periods of time... weird? should i stay away?

 

So, you're running no cats at all?

 

Run a Carfax report and have a mechanic check it out. That is odd though.

 

I got them, but it looks as if they're just scanned pictures of the graph, not actual dynojet run files.

Nope, no cat's here.

 

Hey, does anyone think this may be symptomatic of a leaking rear main seal? Did 02s come with synthetic motor oil and does anyone know if dealers put synthetic in when they change the oil? This car has been almost strictly dealer serviced (dumb, I agree), and I was thinking that maybe I could go with conventional to slow down the leak, if that is actually what the problem is. Thoughts? Suggestions?

 

AFAIK all all dealers use regular oil unless synthetic is specifically requested (and paid for).

It kind of sounds like your clutch might be slipping a little bit. How many miles do you have on it? Try mashing the gas at 20mph in 4th or 5th gear and seeing how high your RPMs fly before power actually gets to the wheels. In a car with a good clutch you should be lugging the car and the RPMs shouldn't fly.

 

That was all that was given to me. This was the first time I've ever had it dynoed. I thought the graph was all that I was supposed to get. What do the run files look like? Could you send me a pic?

 

to that, but Majestic blue looks also good with clear markers.

Watch out because some people said that they had troubles with fitting the ebay markers in the slot. for myself, I bought it off Toysauto and had no problem at all.

 

How can i get tires plus to refund my alignment money?... or give me back a portion...

i bought a 3 year unlimited alignment from them for $135 total...

i dont feel like they did a good job it took literly 15min my camber was still out of spec although i just found out that its not adjustable...... and i didnt know that hunter equipment was the only way to go..... and i doubt thats what they use....

the alignment is only a week old....


any suggestions?....

 

So here is a strange problem I'm having with my 01 max w/ 105k, was curious if anyone thinks its the alternator or maybe something else. When under a heavy electrical load (ac compressor, radio, headlights, etc) my headlights/interior lights will pulsate and my engine noise will sort of dip and surge. I don't see a change in rpm's though. If I turn off the ac compressor or do something else to reduce the load, it will go away immediately.

I have a brand new battery btw.

 

/\/\ most likely alternator. Get it checked out before it kills your new battery

 

bad alternator