As for the flex pipe being coated. I haven't picked them up yet. I will tomorrow, but I'm pretty sure its fine.

 

yea the rear motor mount bracket.....but everything else u said is correct...

 

Yeah before how many shifts at redline

 

lol....prolly 1000000000.......

 

whats the advantage of getting the headers coated and about how much is it to get done?

 

Recently purchased OBX headers.

Can anyone tell me what you paid to have headers installed?

I've called around and keep getting quoted around $800 for 9 hours of work.

Is that ridiculous or on par?

 

Rediculous!, sounds like dealer prices. $400 would be on the highend, but it is time consuming.

 

No! It's alot of work! That's in reference to My Cattman headers I installed myself...Looking at these OBX's and all the other stuff involved in the installation such as the grinding for clearance is time consuming and time is money! IMO $800 is on the high side but that would be everything that is needed from stretching the O2 sensors to installing the O2 simulator and removing the Oem system. Maybe $500-$600 would be reasonable in my book...If you think the pricing is to high try another shop or do it yourself...You'll see why it's quoted so high! It's not like installing a FSTB!

 

Thank God for Brian Catts. He referred me to a mechanic that he had the Catmobile taken too. He charges a flat rate of around $200-250 to install the Gen IIIs. Very, very happy with this.

 

9 hours!!!!!....this aint no turbo kit instal....
...sonds like somebody having a hard time....it only took my mechanic 3 hours to do mine....i guess if u have the proper tools and area..it makes things a whole lot easier...

 

I would rather mod the ypipe. Where the front header bends down, I would get a custom bend that bends away from the x-member and then adjust the ypipe to fit.

 

Sup guys. I have installed the V2 OBX headers on 3 Maximas. Two of them went on '03s and one on '01. I only had two problems. Taking off the old system (rust, broken studs, bolts) and when to put the rear O2 sensor on. It sits so tight near the steering rack. Here are few pics. But besides that it's a pretty good setup for the money.

 

^^^nice pics, thx for postn

 

The bend at the y-pipe, why is it segmented into 4 welded together pieces instead of one clean bend? Seems like an obstruction to flow...

 

cause the pieces are probably mandrel bent before and then piece mealed and welded together.


my only complaint is where that 02 sensor is on the y-pipe bend, one good hit and thats the end of that o2 sensor

 

Probably to save some $$$.

 

I'm not having a hard time at all! I installed my Cattman headers/ypipe myself... Which included air tools and hand tools, no lift, just jack stands. But the fact is I did mine and did it once, and it's still running hard like a champion with no problems nor drama! No money out of my pocket for someone else to do the work...that money you spent is another mod for me!

 

so NYC_VQ30DE-KT, did you not do any cutting?

 

No cutting was involved with the installation.

 

Man, I've been juggling back and fourth as to whether I want to install my Gen III's myself or not. What was the biggest PITA during install?

 

Thanks man for posting the pics and sharing your experience! Very helpful.

No cutting eh? Sounds like a good install.

Looks like the Blehmco LTB has a chance. A tight one, but a chance.

Anyone up for that experiment?

 

The reason the bend is in 4 pieces is because it is stainless steel, and trying to do a 180 degree bend with stainless is almost impossible. It will stretch and be very thin at the midpoint of the bend. That and the force required to do the bend would be extremely high. 4 Small bends done properly will ensure a uniform thickness of the material. That and the fact that the bend is probably on more than one plane, (3d)


I'd say the LTB has a really good chance of fitting , you can actually drain the oil without hitting a skid plate.

 

Cattman... no cutting the frame.

 

read post # 499, in it NYC_VQ30DE-KT stated that he did not have to cut anything with his installation. so now you have a moot point on your hands

 

6th gens don't have a crossmember running front to back anyway.

 

ummmmm actually...i didnt spend that much....i know the guy that owns the shop so he hooked me up....put it like this the money i spent to get them put on.....u couldve bought a used intake with

have fun

 

flowing pretty good 4 me

 

nice pics NYC_VQ30DE-KT .......

 

So you did not have to cut on any of the three cars you installed them on?

I wonder why the other guy cut so much then

 

Maybe the car had been crashed earlier in life and resulted in "other than factory spec" chasis member positioning.

 

Lol being out of spec a couple of inches is not good.

 

Nah, no cutting of the cross member. The main problem is that the rear O2 sensor sits so tight to the steering rack. That I really didn't like.

Thanks, not bad for a cell phone lol.

 

Some nice pics... Can't wait to get mine on.

After doing some searching around I found someone that would do the install for $600. However, he mentioned having to take the intake manifold off because there's no space to work with. I've never heard of having to do that.

Sounds like BS but I dunno...

What kind of difference did you notice? Did the engine's sound change? Did you notice more high end power?

Thanks again guys

 

It makes it much easier to get to the rear bank manifold with the IM off. I know people say they have done the install w/o having to remove the IM, but IMO, it is worth the extra step.

 

Thats how mine went on, IM comes off easy enough


i think its more of a PITA removing the crossmember..

 

You mean like remembering to not let it drop on your face when you remove the last bolt?

Putting it back on trying to align the motor mount bolts is always fun too, especially when you're alone.

 

With regards to the LTB, you guys are right that it'll probably fit. This is how close I got with Cattman headers, and we all know how much larger the loop is on those. I think you're pretty much there with room to spare with these OBXs.



A Stage 1 is only 75 shipped from Matt, and easily resold in the unlikely event it doesn't fit, someone should just bite the bullet and do it.

 

Most of my line of questioning here in this thread was for the LTB. Someone may beat me to a conclusion since my exhaust upgrade phase isn't scheduled to begin until Summer.

 

I would go one extra step and remove the rear valve cover as well. Gives you another few inches of room that help a lot. Only a dozen bolts after you've got the UIM off.

 

Yeah taking the Intake manifold off will make the job easy. Plus you gonna need all the light you can get back there. We noticed a big difference. I can't tell if the engine sound change much cause these cars had a cat-back on it. The '01 had Magnaflow, and the 5.5s had Greddy. The comparison runs on the highway was very noticeable. The OBX is good for it's price. Plus for a "cheap" company at least they making an effort to improve their product.