Actually I take back what I said about the one Kev posting being similar to mine, it's actually the one I have. Just looked at the box out in the garage (have various vaccuum lines in it). Seeing how you're not going to be driving it in winter, I would say no bypass valve needed then. The larger one is a bit overkill, especially in your typical climate (streetz is in Florida... far cry from Canadian summer - even though it looks like you'll be in the 90's at the beginning of next week ).

 

Summer can be really hot sometime here but it doesn't last for a very long time, nothing like Florida.

 

Get a bar and plate cooler, they are usually more efficient than fin and tube. If you want to order from summit, lemme get some similar parts.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMM-70272/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TCI-824104/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-13504/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-13613/

I guess since you won't be driving in cold weather then you shouldnt need one.

 

The weather has been really nice & hot lately, I'm spending more time in the pool than in the garage. Lol

 

I spent 2 hours trying to install the Rack & pignion hoses that goes up the P/S oil container, I was able to squeeze the hose but I was unable to screw the bolts, I was swetting like a pig so at 11:30 pm I took off. I'm going to finish this tonight and hopefully repair few broken things and wire. I'm confident that I will finish all the small things before the end of the weeks. I'm spending the next 2 week-end at my city home so I should be able to fix many things. I still dont have found the wire to tap in for the coil ( my ohm meter died on me yesterday, I didn't had 9 volts replacement battery ) I will pick up one on my way back tonight hopefully I might be able to locate the right wire to tap in. The 3 major things that left to be done are the battery box, the exhaust set-up and the EU wiring, all the remaining stuff ( a long list of ) are little fix like 2 of the brake line that goes to the ABS actuator are leaking so I need to cut them and re-taper the end. I'm missing the 2 hoses that goes from the tranny to the radiator, the dealer doesn't seem to be able to get those, so I'm just going to use some SS braided line. I also need to order the 2 radiator hoses. Yesterday I broke a nipple on the intake manifold so I need to get an adapter that I can screw in and perhap seal it with epoxy.

 

Want me to take a pic of the 4th gen coil wire?

 

If you can do this I think that can help, but for the challenge of it I might still want to give it a try with an ohmeter that has a working battery. Lol but seriously any help is always really appreciate.

I was finally able to bolt on the P/S oil line tonight, man what pita, I have never spent so much time on 2 bolts, I have about a dozen cut on each hand and fore arm, not deep one but just enough to bug you, anyway I got that bétch on.

I'm suppose to get the new black canister tomorrow so I'm going to spend sometime fixing all this together, found the shematic in the fsm so I feel a little more confident.

Time to go crash now.

 

Hey everyone, earlier this morning I was thinking about the power steering coolant line ( how crappy they are bend ) I came across that idea: you all know that eventually my car will be boosted, therefore I made the choice to install a tranny cooler & engine oil cooler, this leave the " build in tranny cooler on the radiator " free, so I'm thinking, can I hooked-up the power steering line up there ? I mean this way I can make a nice & clean set-up with SS braided hoses and provide better cooling to the P/S fluid.

What do you guys think ?

 

If the idea of using the cooling part on the rad is not a good idea, the B plan is to run Russell SS lines up to where the condenser was and from there use the original aluminum p/s line and shape it to make some sort of cooler that will go behind the intercooler, I will just block the A/T inlet and outlet on the radiator. This will contribute to a better look in the engine as well.

 

I will ask my buddy to chime in about the PS fluid and rad cooler. He has added a ps cooler and has done the research

But in my opinion, I would run a small separate cooler incase you ever upgrade to the alu rad which has no auto tranny cooler built in. Since you will be boosted, you might need it down the road.

 

Hi Kevlo, finally I drop the idea of using the A/T cooling on the rad, instead I re-used 2 aluminum lines and cut a Russel SS lines to hook it up to the lines it really look good. I'll post some pics tonight.

 

I'm wondering if there is one wire that split to the 6 coils from the relay or if there is one wire per coil also from the relay ? I have a friend that can help me with the electrical aspect but before we jump to conclusion I needed to ask.

Thanks for helping.

 

whoops, here is the pic

http://s17.photobucket.com/albums/b7...t=IMG_2355.jpg

Yes, I know I need to clean the engine bay

 

Hey Kevlo, thanks for the pics, the 5th gen relay is different but I'll see what I can do using your pics.

 

It is the thicker wire, see if you can check where the harness comes in front of the intake manifold.

 

I'm going to check this tonight and see if I can locate the right wire to tap in.

In the mean time I have finished the P/S hose and stock modified cooler. I actually mistakenly ordered the oem alu p/s lines in 2 separate occasion, one of the 2 lines have much less bend so I use both and that give this:

 

Damn loookin good my friend.

I wish you were closer, I would love to come help

 

Hey Kevlo, I wish you'd be my neighbour we would have so much fun, but once the winter kick in you would have regrets to be in the north. Lol

I have plan for next year = Maxus and possibly few car show in US. I have been dreaming to drive my max up to Tucson. ( where my sister live ) I'll have to do that before I get too old. Just kidding I wanna stay woung forever. Didn't work the wire yesterday, I played late in the pool with my 6 years old son and the wife...

 

If you go to Maxus next year, then I will go to maxus next year....given that its somewhere near here on the east coast.

 

Hey Drunkie, are you still in Ravena ? How did you like you first winter in a while ?

 

yup I still am.

It was awesome...love the snow and I love skiing. Can't wait for the new season of snow.

I would come check this out myself if I could cross the border, I really need to get a passport

 

Here in Canada it take about a month to get a passeport, but I'm not sure if you absolutely need a passport to cross the border I think with some ID you can be fine. I'll check into this.

In the meantime I'm officially on vacation for the next 2 weeks, woooooohooooo. I have plan to work on the car, I will definitely finish to prep everything in the engine bay this week, I have a list of less than 10 things to finish. The worst is the canister and the exhaust set-up. I need to buy a tig welder in order to make nice weld with SS. I found a company in Toronto that sell a nice kit for the DIY, it'a an arc welder /tig welder / plasma cutter, it cost 600$ but I might wait a little and get the model up wich is 1200$ but allow you to weld alu and cut up to almost an inch.

 

nope. Driving flying or by boat. Passport is needed when crossing the border.

I'm about to get my passport and I hope it doesnt take too long... (ontario better hurry the f**k up).

Would love to come see the car if you're still working on it when I go to montreal

 

Hey MDeezy, you are welcome to come over, just let me know when you'll be in town and I will manage my time so I'm available. I'm on vacation for the next 2 week and spending few days at the country house and will be back in Mtl tuesday. I hope to accomplish a good amount of work as I'm spending the week in mtl.

 

I fixed the broken IM vacuum nipple for the brake booster, also got the hoses to fix the canister but I didn't had a chance to start fixing this. I now have to decide if I hire a welder to come over and fix my exhaust or I buy tig welding machine and do it myself. The dilema is to find a good welder that can bring his stuff over and do the exhaust on the spot, for let say 350$ or less but I have a doubt I will find anyone interested. Now there is few good company that sell a 3 in 1 welding machine ( arc, plasma cutter and tig welding ) for less than a thousand and to me this is the missing link in my home garage.

I think I know the answer but let see if I can get anyone to come over for a decent price.

 

Hey guys, vacation are over and I"m back home, I'm starting to work on the car tonight, since I didn't work much during the vacation, spent the time with family and kids and our toys ( a Supercharged 2006 Seadoo, my Yamaha Raptor 660 and the family boat ) everything was there for me to not work and it actually worked, gee we had some fun. Now for the fun part I have a question, I have the extended coolant elbow that came in Matty's V1 kit. It is installed and I cant no longer bolts the alternator with his mate so to speak. My machinist/welder has left for 6 weeks in Italy so I cant have him to fabricate the bracket until he's back. I'm a little stuck to be honest, I need to find a quick fix since it's holding me from starting the car. I dont want to wait that long so I'm looking at any idea that can help finding a solution. I tought that the stock coolant elbow clear the way but I believe that once the blower is in there, it will be in the belt way, can anyone confirm this assumption/observation ( I never own a Vortech blower so what do I know )

 

So matty's kit prevents you from bolting up the alternator?

 

It seem that the extended coolant line is in the way of the alt so if I pull the alt to reach the block, the extended coolant line is blocking the way, I'm going to take a few pics tonight and post it tomorrow.

 

Doublea,

May I suggest you blow the cobwebs off the V1 supercharger instructions, originally provided by Stillen? See page 74, step 14 of the SCIFD as seen here. It clearly spells out that this is normal and that you're to grind the ear of the alternator slightly as needed and rotate it as needed. Matty's kit is no different than the original V1 kit, so don't expect any miracles.

Keep up the good work! Lookin'g really good.

 

The Wizard,

Thanks for your input. Just to let everyone know that I'm very satisfied of Matty's kit, so I didn't want to sound like someone who criticize, I knew that I could or have to shave a bit of the alternator's ear. I knew this from the beginning but I bought a brand new alternator and had it chrome plated, but I forgot to shaved the ear before I sent it to the chrome shop. I'm going to remove the alternator tonight and see if I can shave the ear without having the chrome to peel off. I guess I can put some sturdy tape and cut the uncovered part, then I can probably use a clear to seal the edge.

Thanks again, I'm going to try this tonight, take some pics and post it this evening.

 

I spent some time looking how things are installed on the car, I took 2 pics that clearly show what I have to deal with here. The Stillen instructions were made for a VQ30 I have a VQ30DEK. In the next hour in I'm going to remove the extended coolant line and replace it with the stock one, because as it can be seen on the 2 pics below, even if I shave the ear on the alt that wont be enough to bolt on the alt to the block. I think it is also possible that I have a different alternator model than the OE that came with originally, btw this is pure speculation.

 

While I don't know too much about the sc kit when it is all fitting together, can you mod the thermostat? Put a hump in it or something to clear the alt?

 

For this particular situation, having a VQ30DEK is irrelevant.

I'm not seeing the problem if you shave the ear of the alt accordingly. Hmmm...
Maybe you have too much bling and I can't see clearly...

 

None of that stuff is going to move independently so you won't have to worry about how much clearance you have between the two

 

The alternator doesn't get bolted to the timing cover. Your missing a bracket. Or you have to install the SC plate.

 

Bingo ! You just nail it. I have to thank you for that.

Because I have to start the engine N/A ( it"s a freshly rebuild engine )I have to fix the alt on the timing cover, the S/C bracket not being currently install, but I just figured out a simple bracket that will be simple to fabricate, along with M8-1.25 x 3/4/5 cm bolts, I'm going to bolt it on the right side as seen on the pics.

 

This is sometime confusing, I have to figure out things for when it is going to be S/C'd. I'm going to fabricate the bracket tomorrow and get the bolts. I'll shave the ear on the alt while the S/C bracket get install.

 

I made a bracket with some thick alu, so I was able to clear the extended coolant line and the alt is solid enough.

 

I fabricated an aluminum bracket and fix it from the driver side, this way the alt is fixed and the extended coolant line is cleared.

 

Very nice, turn this bish on!!!