dragracer440wedge

I have a 1990 maxima with a L/F window problem. When I drive down the freeway(55-70mph) and I lower the window and raise it back up it will not go all the way back up, the front and rear top edge stops about an 1/16-1/8" from sealing and I get a whisle wind noise. I tried lowering the other windows a little and still the L/F window does not go all the way back up. At lower speeds or stopped the window works great. Help

Thank you
Ezra

Wangan_Cruiser

I have a question about air intake tuning and hope you can tell me your opinions about these parts...

Which of these parts are good, which are to forget,...
Or do you have other sites with better parts?

Thanks for your help!

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BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

may wanna check your bushings. I recently replaced my control arms, and I got way less rattle from up front. buy from a reputable parts distributor, and the control arms come with the ball joint.

if you want to replace just the ball joint, unscrew the three nuts on bottom, turn the hub (and strut assy), gives way easier access to the top nut. not too hard, if you force your way to it (will need an open box wrench, vs socket to get to it).

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

1 no, wrong car
2 no
3 no
4 no, hell no, ****, no. no.

do a quick search in the 3rd gen forum for accord cai.

or go sleeper and get a k&n stock air filter. I have one, and it sounds nice!

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

sounds like you may have the regulator out of adjustment, maybe.
there should be some adjustability, to move the regulator around, to get a good seal on top.
not sure why it only does it at speed, tho...

rewsintegra

thats what i thought.

next question. the max wont start. the battery has power, and it will push start. but the starter was replaced about 2 years ago so it might not be that. i looked at the connectors that go from the battery to the fuses and rest of the engine bay and there is a white goop inside of them. is that normal? if not ill clean it out, if it is, what the heck is it?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

it's probably corrosion. good luck getting it all out. if it has traveled to far down the cable you will need to replace the cable

Evil Ryu

replaced my battery on my 91 the other day, and the battery dies again.
brake and battery light are on, so i'm sure it's the alternator.

anybody ever repair their hitachi oem alternator? new alternator brushes, etc?
i can't find a how to, or someone who's done it.

JohnA

Hey, I'm not dead yet :P
I've been gone for a while, busy with school and my girlfriend's trip to the middle east...

I'm still having trouble with my Maxima, I'll explain here again what the problem is:
I have a 92 Maxima GXE, SOHC engine auto transmission, my transmission went bad, and fixing it was going to cost a lot of money, so I decided to change to manual and work on my maxima as a project car. It now has a 93 DOHC (VE30DE) engine and five speed transmission.
It took ALOT of work to get it done, and now it's pretty much complete, and when it works, it runs like a beast! Very quick and powerful.
But, when driving it, sometimes after 5 minutes, sometimes after hours, it starts to choke and stalls, and when it does, it doesn't run again unless I leave it alone for a while, between half an hour and overnight.
I changed the gas pump, the airflow sensor, and the ECU, and it's still giving me trouble. I took it to the Nissan dealership and had them do diagnostics for a $120, but all they told me is that it's running lean when the problem happens, and it's most likely either the MAS or the ECU, but they didn't tell me anything specific, and I just changed both of them :/

The ECU came with the engine from A1, I had them get me a new ECU from LKQ, and monday I'm gonna try to get a third one, hoping that it is the problem.

But I'd like to know what else you guys think could be the problem?
I've been working on it for over a year, and I really want it finished!
Please help

Evil Ryu

nm, got a rebuild oem hitachi unit.

i might have hooked it up wrong? when i hooked up the battery the alternator smoked LOL.

but my car runs fine hahaha

alternator kind of makes a faint rattling noise or something

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

accord mang.... not civic.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

whoops! lemme fix that...

coffin

I recently bought a '94 maxima and was wondering what the A/T switch located right below the ashtray is for? It has the option of power or comfort? WTF???

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

it changes the point at which the transmission shifts. Comfort shifts sooner power shifts later

coffin

Ahhh, makes sense, thanks

Max93sePat

i have a 1993 nissan maxima Se. It has 160,000 miles on it. I am thinking of selling it for 1,000. There are currently no problems with it. Does anybody have a unlimted carfax account? If you do it would be greatly appreciated if you you could check the history on my vehicle. I never had this done. I purchased the car about 2.5 years ago and want to know what went on with it during the past 16 or so years! Thank you very much!

JohnA

Where are you located?
I don't have a carfax account, but I'd be willing to buy it off of you...

D@$uPeRc[-]@RgER

I've been having the same problem. I have a 93 SE auto with 150k on it and it'd do the same thing. But i started to notice that a "fake" rev limiter would come on after 15 to 40 minutes of driving and then this limiter would keep on falling until its barely above idle and the car dies and doesn't start for at least 15 minutes. Someone on the forum told me to change my MAF sensor but that did not solve my problem. What i did notice was that when this problem starts to happen and i either open the hood when the car is moving or when i turn the heater on full blast then it goes away. I think that its something to do with underhood temperatures or something. Maybe the harness?
Another weird thing that my car does is that usually my tach doesn't work but when this problem starts to happen the tach needle jumps around like its posessed or something and it even starts to work once in a blue moon. Anyone have ANY idea what the hell is goin on? sorry for being such a noob

SEninedeuce

after seeing that my power steering fluid was low, I filled it up and the grinding went away, along with the mysterious noise. I'm checking it day by day to see if the fluid with stop leak stopped further leakage.

codyl1992

I checked my ecu for trouble codes, it gave 55 so there must not be anything serious. I have since found out that i DO NOT need to apply any gas to start the car, it just takes a good 3-6 seconds of cranking to start it cold, and then it just sputters into idle.
I saw on another thread about slow starting and the person reported that if they cranked it for a few seconds and had it fail to start, if they repeated cranking it would start immediately. This is exactly the issue I have.
I can sometimes smell a mild gas smell outside the car, even when its turned off, and if this means anything, I recently got 24mpg on a 100% highway trip. (seems kinda low)

Possible fuel system problem?

D@$uPeRc[-]@RgER

So does anyone of the admins have any clue why my car's actin like it has Turrets syndrome?

300zmax

on my 89 se parts car there is a blue relay mounted to the driver strut tower. any ideas as to what it is for. my 91 gxe does not have it it has a large resistor in that location. i will try to get a pic for better clarity

dragracer440wedge

I have a 1990 Maxima and I am looking for a key blank.The dealer has only the newest style key blank which is very large compaired to the orginal OEM key I have.Does anyone know where I can get the OEM small size key blanks.
Thank you
Ezra

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Virtually anywhere that makes key copies should have the Nissan style key. I know PepBoys has them, look exactly like my OEM key except it doesn't say Nissan. You can buy them on eBay as well:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1982-...lenotsupported

JohnA

anyone? anything?

mark77

Hi Guys,
Love the site and have learned heaps. I'm having trouble with my J30 with VG30E. I have set the idle and done idle procedure a few times now. The problem is that that after a few seconds at the lights in D there is a vibration that develops through the car. The tacho shows about 700rpm in this situation. I figured it was because it is idling too low and have tried increasign base idle. It nowat about 90rpm in N or P but it doesn't seem to have increased the rpm in D while stationary. Another indicator that it might me low is that if the blower is on high, it speeds up a bit as you take off from the lights. Is this normal? Anyone have any suggestions of what I can do? I have cleaned MAF, IACV and throttle body. Doesn't seem to have helped but not gotten any worse either.
Thanksguys
Mark

burhan92SE

checked ur engine mounts lately?

D@$uPeRc[-]@RgER

So does ANYONE have a clue as to what the hell my max is trying to pull on me?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

i'm not as familiar with the VE engine, but you might want to test another tach in your car to see if you can get a good tach reading.. and from there, find out what RPM the "fake limiter" is at. if it's over 2500 then it can't be a MAF problem.

check your ECU codes (general maintainence sticky, post 18 i think... follow instructions for "2-mode system")

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

dunno if this helps but the tach needing a exorcism is common in old cars, my heat gauge will suddenly jump up for a few minutes then go down, and my RPM gauge will work about 5% of the time, otherwise its flying from 8k to 0k at 5000mph or just limp at 0

the RPM one happened after i smoked a curb trying to be cool, so im guessing a loose wire causes it. check your connections and if it still happens you can get a used tach on ebay for around $40

austin from texas

where can i get a good rear sway bar? i ordered one from stillen and when comparing it to the stock bar i dont see how its supposed to work. is there some sort of special modifications that need to take place or does the stillen bar just suck?

colinod

Question

I was told that the steering rack bushings are shot on my max

mad rattling going over any pavement that isn't glass-smooth and while braking over any quality pavement.

how easy is this to repair?

AND

has anyone ever done a V8 conversion? RWD Conversion?

I love this car that much, and I'm not kidding

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

V8 conversion- Personally cant see a point, V6 are awesome and skylines even have them

RWD conversion- If you REALLY want to do it, have alot of money around (thousands), and can pay for hours of labor at a shop, go for it. its a TON of work and honestly it would be cheaper to go out and get yourself a used skyline or cheaper yet a 240sx. if you want a 3rd gen that can drift (would be wicked) and want to use it for drifting/racing, go for it. otherwise, its really not practical. it would be fun though, if i won the lottery it would be the first thing i would do

AWD conversions are still alot of work but more doable i believe

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

only the V35 and newer Skyline (called Infiniti G35 in the US) has a V6... all the other ones (R31-34 at least) had RB-series inline 6s

rwd conversion never works properly on FWD cars, because FWD cars have the front wheels too close to the firewall... so all the engine's weight is STILL over the front wheels instead of behind them. RWD cars have their front wheels further out so that the engine is behind the front axle, making that weight distribute more evenly front/rear for a balanced 50/50 weight distribution. FWD is like 65% front 35% rear weight split.

compare the FWD 3rd gen to the BMW E36... note the front wheel position relative to the front bumper. Basically a RWD maxima would still handle like a FWD car, just with a whole lot less grip on the drive wheels cuz the weight would be PAST the front axle, taking all the weight off the rear wheels. Basically making the car worthless to drive.




v8 conversion is also basically pointless cuz there's no v8 that would fit transversely that i know of... maybe a VW W8 might fit but do you really want to mix and match brands like that? and what tranny and stuff would you use? besides a VQ35 swap will provide more than enough kick to satisfy your power requirements.



and the biggest moral of the story:
If you have to ask, you are not capable of doing it. Period.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

one thing i forgot to add is a turbo would be far better than a V8

ive seen crazy V8 swaps though, if you check youtube theres a V8 civic hatch

austin from texas

quote for reiteration

and its a suspension techniques rear sway bar
the stock bar is welded into some kind of round bushings
is modification/fabrication required??

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

pics of "stock" mounts? plz? cuz mine aren't welded. they are held on to each mount by two bolts.

1989NissanMaximaGXE

I just got a 89 Max and I was wondering where I can get aftermarket parts for it?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

internetautosupply.com (springs and struts and bushings and swaybars)
blehmco.com (rear suspension links, tiebars, etc)
stillen.com (body kit, spoiler if they still have it)
warpspeedperformance.com for exhaust

MaXiMa_RyDaH

hey, im having a problem with my signal lights... i have a 94 maxima and I was wiring up my speaker system and after i was done, i noticed the signal lights no longer worked later on. The tail lights and break lights work fine, but the signal lights in both front and back wont turn on or even blink in the dash display or make any clicking sound at all... ive checked the fuses and they are good so im looking for feedback and possible diagrams of the turn signal wiring...