*NOOBIES* The "I am new here,but have a question" thread..(post your questions here)
#4481
Steering Gear Mounting Insulator (bushing)
Hello.
After taking my '89 GXE in to get an alignment / wheel balance, the told me I needed to do my steering gear mounting insulators (bushings). Since I bought the car over this past summer, I've had a vibration that I could not get rid of (did the cv axle, ball joint, control arm bushing, sway bar bushings, and even tried simply rotating tires.) I'm confident now that this was the issue the entire time. 2 questions:
1) Does anyone out there think that the steering gear insulators could be the cause of this vibration problem? More about the vibration - gets faster as the wheels get faster, gets louder after just tapping the brakes, wanes and waxes depending on whether or not my wheels are pointed strait.
2) What does changing these bushing entail? Is there a write - up that I may have missed when searching? Anything else that I should do while I've got the car up? Also - the boot on the steering gear has separated and will need replacing. I should prob do that as well.
Thanks for your time and I look forward to your responses!
Chris
*** Also called rack & pinion bushing
After taking my '89 GXE in to get an alignment / wheel balance, the told me I needed to do my steering gear mounting insulators (bushings). Since I bought the car over this past summer, I've had a vibration that I could not get rid of (did the cv axle, ball joint, control arm bushing, sway bar bushings, and even tried simply rotating tires.) I'm confident now that this was the issue the entire time. 2 questions:
1) Does anyone out there think that the steering gear insulators could be the cause of this vibration problem? More about the vibration - gets faster as the wheels get faster, gets louder after just tapping the brakes, wanes and waxes depending on whether or not my wheels are pointed strait.
2) What does changing these bushing entail? Is there a write - up that I may have missed when searching? Anything else that I should do while I've got the car up? Also - the boot on the steering gear has separated and will need replacing. I should prob do that as well.
Thanks for your time and I look forward to your responses!
Chris
*** Also called rack & pinion bushing
Last edited by chrisville37; 11-18-2009 at 12:55 PM.
#4482
vibration? maybe, if the rack itself is so unrestrained that it's literally just slapping around. it's kindof a pain to change if you don't have a really thin ratchet and shallow socket, cuz the tranny kindasorta gets in the way. much easier with the tranny off, IF you already had a reason to remove the tranny like I did (vlsd upgrade). Otherwise you just gotta get the ratchet in there and deal with the close quarters. the FSM says what order to do the bolts in, if you have it. if you don't i can take a screencap of that page for you.
#4483
Can't seem to find 'em
I feel like a total jackarse asking this but I am two connections short of finishing an engine swap & I can't for the life of me figure out where they go.
So... where are the connections for these? I've wasted hellatime looking, but no luck. Thanks in advance!
![Embarrassment](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/redface.gif)
![](http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh31/tresboi/wherewhat.jpg)
#4485
vibration? maybe, if the rack itself is so unrestrained that it's literally just slapping around. it's kindof a pain to change if you don't have a really thin ratchet and shallow socket, cuz the tranny kindasorta gets in the way. much easier with the tranny off, IF you already had a reason to remove the tranny like I did (vlsd upgrade). Otherwise you just gotta get the ratchet in there and deal with the close quarters. the FSM says what order to do the bolts in, if you have it. if you don't i can take a screencap of that page for you.
So you say a skinny ratchet and shallow sockets? Do you think by chance that you might know what size socket would fit? Just thinking I might be able to get by buying just one socket (kinda gotta go on the cheap here - my 8 year old is getting an R/C plane for Xmas and it's a good one - not one of those crpppy ones from Walmart!) ... I have a good set of regular sockets, but if they won't fit ...
Thanks again for your help!
Last edited by chrisville37; 11-18-2009 at 09:30 PM.
#4486
depending on who you buy your injectors from you may need to buy the o-rings seperately. There are also cushions that should be replaced along with any rubber hose you see under there.
#4487
I have the '94 FSM (downloaded it - couldn't find the '89 manual) and I see the diagram of the steering gear, but do not see the order in which to do the bolts. I might be missing it but a screencap of yours would be greatly appreciated!
So you say a skinny ratchet and shallow sockets? Do you think by chance that you might know what size socket would fit? Just thinking I might be able to get by buying just one socket (kinda gotta go on the cheap here - my 8 year old is getting an R/C plane for Xmas and it's a good one - not one of those crpppy ones from Walmart!) ... I have a good set of regular sockets, but if they won't fit ...
Thanks again for your help!
So you say a skinny ratchet and shallow sockets? Do you think by chance that you might know what size socket would fit? Just thinking I might be able to get by buying just one socket (kinda gotta go on the cheap here - my 8 year old is getting an R/C plane for Xmas and it's a good one - not one of those crpppy ones from Walmart!) ... I have a good set of regular sockets, but if they won't fit ...
Thanks again for your help!
#4488
Just found it. Thanks, though. I bought a short breaker bar and a short ratchet to help get in there. I got under the car and realized that it is very cramped up there. Plus, I'm leaking PS fluid from somewhere up above and so it's really slick too. I'm going to clean it up first. It's probably what caused the bushings to wear down in the first place. I'll let you know how it goes (may wait until tomorrow).
#4489
No response from # 2 cyl.
First of all let me thank all of you for your support and advice! Here is my latest problem. My "91" Maxima se is driving me NUTS, #2 cylinder is not Firing, I have checked continuity, ohms, voltage and replaced injector, as well as complete P.M. Tune up (cap, rotor, plugs, and wires). I have not done a compression test, only because I have no symptoms of compression loss.No smoke,no oil consumption etc. Everything is pointing toward computer control module, but why would it single out just one cylinder? On board diagnostics is throwing constant code 33 and 51. I cleared all codes after replacing # 2 injector and still have consistent 51 error and 33 error as well as no power @ #2 cyl. All other cylinders are firing and showing excellent firing per plug inspection. After replacing the cap and rotor, injector, plug, and wire for #2; pulling the plug wire does not change the way the car runs. I'm completely stumped. Please help! thanks guys.
#4490
First of all let me thank all of you for your support and advice! Here is my latest problem. My "91" Maxima se is driving me NUTS, #2 cylinder is not Firing, I have checked continuity, ohms, voltage and replaced injector, as well as complete P.M. Tune up (cap, rotor, plugs, and wires). I have not done a compression test, only because I have no symptoms of compression loss.No smoke,no oil consumption etc. Everything is pointing toward computer control module, but why would it single out just one cylinder? On board diagnostics is throwing constant code 33 and 51. I cleared all codes after replacing # 2 injector and still have consistent 51 error and 33 error as well as no power @ #2 cyl. All other cylinders are firing and showing excellent firing per plug inspection. After replacing the cap and rotor, injector, plug, and wire for #2; pulling the plug wire does not change the way the car runs. I'm completely stumped. Please help! thanks guys.
if that is bad, gl, if not you may really need to replace the ECU.
also, make sure the injector connector is clean, and making contact with the pins for the injector. you may need to bend the little fingers, to get them to contact better.
#4491
try going to autozone/o'reily/napa, see if they have a loaner 'Noid' light (AZ, and O usually loan them for free, plus a returned deposit, not sure about N). it will test the injector signal, make sure it is getting thru. if you get nothing, before replacing the ECU, make sure you have continuity between the harnesses for the injector and the ecu.
if that is bad, gl, if not you may really need to replace the ECU.
also, make sure the injector connector is clean, and making contact with the pins for the injector. you may need to bend the little fingers, to get them to contact better.
if that is bad, gl, if not you may really need to replace the ECU.
also, make sure the injector connector is clean, and making contact with the pins for the injector. you may need to bend the little fingers, to get them to contact better.
![Cool](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/cool.gif)
#4492
92 gxe auto
my car for some reason is running rough intermittently. it started a few weeks ago when the temperature started to drop. it does it whether it is idling or in gear, it kind of acts like its running out of gas (best way i can think to describe it). its running on all cylinders, i did the unplugging wires while running test and there was a noticable difference with each one. lucky me i have a spare car so ive already tried swapping the coolant temp sensor, and the sensor adjacent to the air filter, maf? neither of these have made any real difference. when it is running poorly and i give the car a bit of gas i can hear knocking. any takers?
by the way, love the site, i would have been screwed without you guys' tutorials a little while back when i had to swap the tranny. thanks a ton.
edit: the oils been changed recently, the knocking sounds more like a spark type knock than a lifter, but i cant say for certain. earlier today i had to try a couple of times before it would start, this is a new symptom. should my next step be checking compression, injectors?
my car for some reason is running rough intermittently. it started a few weeks ago when the temperature started to drop. it does it whether it is idling or in gear, it kind of acts like its running out of gas (best way i can think to describe it). its running on all cylinders, i did the unplugging wires while running test and there was a noticable difference with each one. lucky me i have a spare car so ive already tried swapping the coolant temp sensor, and the sensor adjacent to the air filter, maf? neither of these have made any real difference. when it is running poorly and i give the car a bit of gas i can hear knocking. any takers?
by the way, love the site, i would have been screwed without you guys' tutorials a little while back when i had to swap the tranny. thanks a ton.
edit: the oils been changed recently, the knocking sounds more like a spark type knock than a lifter, but i cant say for certain. earlier today i had to try a couple of times before it would start, this is a new symptom. should my next step be checking compression, injectors?
Last edited by strychnine; 11-21-2009 at 11:54 AM.
#4493
92 gxe auto
my car for some reason is running rough intermittently. it started a few weeks ago when the temperature started to drop. it does it whether it is idling or in gear, it kind of acts like its running out of gas (best way i can think to describe it). its running on all cylinders, i did the unplugging wires while running test and there was a noticable difference with each one. lucky me i have a spare car so ive already tried swapping the coolant temp sensor, and the sensor adjacent to the air filter, maf? neither of these have made any real difference. when it is running poorly and i give the car a bit of gas i can hear knocking. any takers?
by the way, love the site, i would have been screwed without you guys' tutorials a little while back when i had to swap the tranny. thanks a ton.
edit: the oils been changed recently, the knocking sounds more like a spark type knock than a lifter, but i cant say for certain. earlier today i had to try a couple of times before it would start, this is a new symptom. should my next step be checking compression, injectors?
my car for some reason is running rough intermittently. it started a few weeks ago when the temperature started to drop. it does it whether it is idling or in gear, it kind of acts like its running out of gas (best way i can think to describe it). its running on all cylinders, i did the unplugging wires while running test and there was a noticable difference with each one. lucky me i have a spare car so ive already tried swapping the coolant temp sensor, and the sensor adjacent to the air filter, maf? neither of these have made any real difference. when it is running poorly and i give the car a bit of gas i can hear knocking. any takers?
by the way, love the site, i would have been screwed without you guys' tutorials a little while back when i had to swap the tranny. thanks a ton.
edit: the oils been changed recently, the knocking sounds more like a spark type knock than a lifter, but i cant say for certain. earlier today i had to try a couple of times before it would start, this is a new symptom. should my next step be checking compression, injectors?
#4494
its the worst until about 3-4000 rpm, at that point it still runs kind of crappy compared to how it did before but not quite as bad as the lower rpms. and yes it intermittently (when its acting up) has less power than normal. negative on smelling fuel. it seems to not be affected by temp, same problem when first cranked or after a while, maybe slightly mor when cold. which reminds me of something else i forgot to include, my car seems to run cold like 90% of the time, the gauge typically gets up to the C and just kind of settles there, thermostat stuck open maybe? off and on it will get up to normal but eventually gets back to there. i dont live in alaska or anything, temperatures are typically mild here, its been about 60 or so during the day. i should also add that i changed the plugs today just to rule that out, no difference.
and thanks for the reply
#4496
#4497
Thank you i also have other questions
1.My power door locks don't work at all no sound or nothing no unlock with inside control or the key turn its pissing me off!!
2.My antenna don't want to work, like its not geting any power to it ,my friend cut the little box with all the wires apart i attempted to re wire it but still i get nothing, im thinking about buying one from auto zone like this http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znet...UA200/image/8/ will it work for my car or dose it need to be a power one??
3.None of the windows roll down from the corresponding switchs i can only roll down the front passenger and driver window from the driver side main switch what could this be?
4.And my rear pasenger window fall down on it own..
please help me
1.My power door locks don't work at all no sound or nothing no unlock with inside control or the key turn its pissing me off!!
2.My antenna don't want to work, like its not geting any power to it ,my friend cut the little box with all the wires apart i attempted to re wire it but still i get nothing, im thinking about buying one from auto zone like this http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znet...UA200/image/8/ will it work for my car or dose it need to be a power one??
3.None of the windows roll down from the corresponding switchs i can only roll down the front passenger and driver window from the driver side main switch what could this be?
4.And my rear pasenger window fall down on it own..
please help me
![Frown](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
#4498
try going to autozone/o'reily/napa, see if they have a loaner 'Noid' light (AZ, and O usually loan them for free, plus a returned deposit, not sure about N). it will test the injector signal, make sure it is getting thru. if you get nothing, before replacing the ECU, make sure you have continuity between the harnesses for the injector and the ecu.
if that is bad, gl, if not you may really need to replace the ECU.
also, make sure the injector connector is clean, and making contact with the pins for the injector. you may need to bend the little fingers, to get them to contact better.
if that is bad, gl, if not you may really need to replace the ECU.
also, make sure the injector connector is clean, and making contact with the pins for the injector. you may need to bend the little fingers, to get them to contact better.
![Confused](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
#4499
![Big Grin](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Originally Posted by sb_max510
3.None of the windows roll down from the corresponding switchs i can only roll down the front passenger and driver window from the driver side main switch what could this be?
4.And my rear pasenger window fall down on it own.
4.And my rear pasenger window fall down on it own.
For #4, you need a new window regulator. Common problem with these cars. Number 82700 on this diagram
#4500
try going to autozone/o'reily/napa, see if they have a loaner 'Noid' light (AZ, and O usually loan them for free, plus a returned deposit, not sure about N). it will test the injector signal, make sure it is getting thru. if you get nothing, before replacing the ECU, make sure you have continuity between the harnesses for the injector and the ecu.
if that is bad, gl, if not you may really need to replace the ECU.
also, make sure the injector connector is clean, and making contact with the pins for the injector. you may need to bend the little fingers, to get them to contact better.
if that is bad, gl, if not you may really need to replace the ECU.
also, make sure the injector connector is clean, and making contact with the pins for the injector. you may need to bend the little fingers, to get them to contact better.
![Confused](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
![Confused](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
![Confused](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
#4501
its the worst until about 3-4000 rpm, at that point it still runs kind of crappy compared to how it did before but not quite as bad as the lower rpms. and yes it intermittently (when its acting up) has less power than normal. negative on smelling fuel. it seems to not be affected by temp, same problem when first cranked or after a while, maybe slightly mor when cold. which reminds me of something else i forgot to include, my car seems to run cold like 90% of the time, the gauge typically gets up to the C and just kind of settles there, thermostat stuck open maybe? off and on it will get up to normal but eventually gets back to there. i dont live in alaska or anything, temperatures are typically mild here, its been about 60 or so during the day. i should also add that i changed the plugs today just to rule that out, no difference.
and thanks for the reply
and thanks for the reply
Have you ran any f/i cleaner? If not I would suggest it, people seem to like Sea Foam, and I have used B-12 Chemtool with success.IMHO I won't use anything that comes in a plastic bottle. I figure if it can't dissolve plastic after months on the shelf, how good could it clean?
![Big Grin](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
The coolant temp situation would be a good one to tackle first, if that is what the ecu see's it will have varied affects on how the engine runs.
Make sure your cooling system is full and if you have an air bleed, that ther is no air in the system. CTS is at a high point and it won't read correctly if there is air present.
How hot does your heater blow? Redneck diagnosis, but if the heater is HOT and guage says cold then might be electrical....
If engine is running cool/cold then almost has to be thermostat.
I would eliminate these things first, then move on if neccessary
#4502
hey, i've been doing some research and i read about the crank angle sensor. supposedly these commonly malfunction on the 91 maxima. from what i read this could very well be my problem. it could be as simple as removing the ditributor and inspecting this crank angle sensor for dirt and proper wiring/corrosion. have you ever heard of this? do you think this could be my problem??![Confused](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
![Confused](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
I really hope i've finally found an answer to this long and expensive venture. I'll keep you posted on how it goes.
![Confused](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
![Confused](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
![Confused](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
CAS could be problem and is what made me think of the starting loop with all injectors firing...... good luck and let us know
![Smilie](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Last edited by alex.wlkr; 11-22-2009 at 07:31 PM.
#4505
i need to know because i have to work on my harnesses more, at the junkyard people rip off the back seat cushion and there looks like 2 metal loop hooks at the back but i need to take the cushions out properly incase i want them in again
at least i'm not alone lol
at least i'm not alone lol
![Smilie](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#4506
Bottom removal:
run your hand under neat the front of the bottom cushion. find the loops. using your hand, gently (but firmly) pull up. if it doesn't give, pull harder. still need help grab a pry bar or screw driver.
top cushion:
after removing the bottom cushion, there will be two screws exposed that hold the seat down by the doors.remove them (stick somewhere safe!)
fold down the arm rest, to expose the plastic circle things (just woke up, but whatever). pry those off, exposing two more screws. remove, stick with the other two.
now the most difficult part. lift up on the bottom of the cushion, taking care not to pull it towards you. it should come out, but the half dozen of them I have done (my two maximas, a few more at the junk yard), it takes some muscle, and patience.
#4508
yeah, the rear seat is two pieces.
Bottom removal:
run your hand under neat the front of the bottom cushion. find the loops. using your hand, gently (but firmly) pull up. if it doesn't give, pull harder. still need help grab a pry bar or screw driver.
top cushion:
after removing the bottom cushion, there will be two screws exposed that hold the seat down by the doors.remove them (stick somewhere safe!)
fold down the arm rest, to expose the plastic circle things (just woke up, but whatever). pry those off, exposing two more screws. remove, stick with the other two.
now the most difficult part. lift up on the bottom of the cushion, taking care not to pull it towards you. it should come out, but the half dozen of them I have done (my two maximas, a few more at the junk yard), it takes some muscle, and patience.
Bottom removal:
run your hand under neat the front of the bottom cushion. find the loops. using your hand, gently (but firmly) pull up. if it doesn't give, pull harder. still need help grab a pry bar or screw driver.
top cushion:
after removing the bottom cushion, there will be two screws exposed that hold the seat down by the doors.remove them (stick somewhere safe!)
fold down the arm rest, to expose the plastic circle things (just woke up, but whatever). pry those off, exposing two more screws. remove, stick with the other two.
now the most difficult part. lift up on the bottom of the cushion, taking care not to pull it towards you. it should come out, but the half dozen of them I have done (my two maximas, a few more at the junk yard), it takes some muscle, and patience.
#4509
#4510
Ok guys. I'm really sick of working on my car and spending money on things that don't help. I have a 91 Maxima SE. It's my daily driver so it is very important to me. I have been having a lot of trouble diagnosing a misfire problem. SO... I am willing to pay $100 cash to who ever correctly diagnoses the problem and tells me how to fix it.
Symptoms:
1. Misfire in number two cylinder.
2. Intermittent erratic idle when in park or neutral. (rpms bounce between 1500 and 2000 whether the engine is hot or cold)
3. Bad fuel economy.
4. Motor intermittently surges while driving but not while under a load. (only while coasting)
FYI:
1. I do have acceptable spark on all cylinders.
2. Cylinders are all getting fuel.
3. I checked the number two cylinder injector signal using a NOID light and got NO signal!
4. I have tested the Crank Angle Sensor and it seems to be functioning properly and has no apparent physical damage.
5. The ECU is giving me codes 33 and 51.
6. I have inspected and cleaned all electrical connections.
7. I have traced the injector wiring harness from the number two cylinder back to the main wiring harness and found no problems.
8. There is continuity in all injection system wires.
9. The connection to the number two injector reads a little over 12 volts constantly.
10. I have found and fixed a couple vacuum leaks but it didn't seem to help the car run.
I have replaced:
1. Spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor.
2. Fuel injector on number two cylinder. (which turned out to be a waste of time and money)
3. I have done a full preventative maintenence tune up.
If anyone has any ideas feel free to PM me or reply to this thread. I am a man of my word and I will pay who ever correctly diagnoses the problem. Thanks guys.
Symptoms:
1. Misfire in number two cylinder.
2. Intermittent erratic idle when in park or neutral. (rpms bounce between 1500 and 2000 whether the engine is hot or cold)
3. Bad fuel economy.
4. Motor intermittently surges while driving but not while under a load. (only while coasting)
FYI:
1. I do have acceptable spark on all cylinders.
2. Cylinders are all getting fuel.
3. I checked the number two cylinder injector signal using a NOID light and got NO signal!
4. I have tested the Crank Angle Sensor and it seems to be functioning properly and has no apparent physical damage.
5. The ECU is giving me codes 33 and 51.
6. I have inspected and cleaned all electrical connections.
7. I have traced the injector wiring harness from the number two cylinder back to the main wiring harness and found no problems.
8. There is continuity in all injection system wires.
9. The connection to the number two injector reads a little over 12 volts constantly.
10. I have found and fixed a couple vacuum leaks but it didn't seem to help the car run.
I have replaced:
1. Spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor.
2. Fuel injector on number two cylinder. (which turned out to be a waste of time and money)
3. I have done a full preventative maintenence tune up.
If anyone has any ideas feel free to PM me or reply to this thread. I am a man of my word and I will pay who ever correctly diagnoses the problem. Thanks guys.
#4511
Ok guys. I'm really sick of working on my car and spending money on things that don't help. I have a 91 Maxima SE. It's my daily driver so it is very important to me. I have been having a lot of trouble diagnosing a misfire problem. SO... I am willing to pay $100 cash to who ever correctly diagnoses the problem and tells me how to fix it.
Symptoms:
1. Misfire in number two cylinder.
2. Intermittent erratic idle when in park or neutral. (rpms bounce between 1500 and 2000 whether the engine is hot or cold)
3. Bad fuel economy.
4. Motor intermittently surges while driving but not while under a load. (only while coasting)
FYI:
1. I do have acceptable spark on all cylinders.
2. Cylinders are all getting fuel.
3. I checked the number two cylinder injector signal using a NOID light and got NO signal!
4. I have tested the Crank Angle Sensor and it seems to be functioning properly and has no apparent physical damage.
5. The ECU is giving me codes 33 and 51.
6. I have inspected and cleaned all electrical connections.
7. I have traced the injector wiring harness from the number two cylinder back to the main wiring harness and found no problems.
8. There is continuity in all injection system wires.
9. The connection to the number two injector reads a little over 12 volts constantly.
10. I have found and fixed a couple vacuum leaks but it didn't seem to help the car run.
I have replaced:
1. Spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor.
2. Fuel injector on number two cylinder. (which turned out to be a waste of time and money)
3. I have done a full preventative maintenence tune up.
If anyone has any ideas feel free to PM me or reply to this thread. I am a man of my word and I will pay who ever correctly diagnoses the problem. Thanks guys.
Symptoms:
1. Misfire in number two cylinder.
2. Intermittent erratic idle when in park or neutral. (rpms bounce between 1500 and 2000 whether the engine is hot or cold)
3. Bad fuel economy.
4. Motor intermittently surges while driving but not while under a load. (only while coasting)
FYI:
1. I do have acceptable spark on all cylinders.
2. Cylinders are all getting fuel.
3. I checked the number two cylinder injector signal using a NOID light and got NO signal!
4. I have tested the Crank Angle Sensor and it seems to be functioning properly and has no apparent physical damage.
5. The ECU is giving me codes 33 and 51.
6. I have inspected and cleaned all electrical connections.
7. I have traced the injector wiring harness from the number two cylinder back to the main wiring harness and found no problems.
8. There is continuity in all injection system wires.
9. The connection to the number two injector reads a little over 12 volts constantly.
10. I have found and fixed a couple vacuum leaks but it didn't seem to help the car run.
I have replaced:
1. Spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor.
2. Fuel injector on number two cylinder. (which turned out to be a waste of time and money)
3. I have done a full preventative maintenence tune up.
If anyone has any ideas feel free to PM me or reply to this thread. I am a man of my word and I will pay who ever correctly diagnoses the problem. Thanks guys.
Wasn't a re-manufactured unit, was it?
#4513
guys i think this is my last day on this site
... just found out that the throttle valve switch circuit isdefected, detoation sensor is defected,and the fuel temperature sensor is defected. i dont have any idea how to fix this. I took as much care of my car that i possibly could. the previous owner didnt not take care of it AT ALL. BYE FELLAS
![Frown](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
#4514
guys i think this is my last day on this site
... just found out that the throttle valve switch circuit isdefected, detoation sensor is defected,and the fuel temperature sensor is defected. i dont have any idea how to fix this. I took as much care of my car that i possibly could. the previous owner didnt not take care of it AT ALL. BYE FELLAS
![Frown](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
#4515
oh well the guy that checked it out said that was wrong with it. the motor is good. but for some reason it wont crank. if you know anything that can help please dont let me know. i really dont want to give up on this car
#4516
#4517
Have you tried to start the car in neutral?
Does the starter click?
#4518
no crank? if it won't crank you check the starter/battery/ignition switch/Neutral safety switch/ shifter bushing. Sensors get checked after you can crank. I am not aware of ANY sensor on the engine that will prevent starting.
Have you tried to start the car in neutral?
Does the starter click?
Have you tried to start the car in neutral?
Does the starter click?
#4520
rear sperkers
so i bought some alpine speak and put
them were the old paper speaker were in the rear ,i also bought a new head unit and now my rear speaker dont seem to function im not getting any sound what could this problem be
![Confused](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)