oh thats right i remember saying i like the salmon color and you said its just old *** paint

 

You have a injector/s leaking internally....you can't see it by visual inspection...remove each injector plug, stick a ohm/multi meter on each injector male prongs..Good injectors will read 12-14 ohms...any other reading outside of that spec would be a bad injector...

 

yea its done man anything is worth a try now, the previous owner didnt take care of it. so far ive replaced mostly the things dat needed to be fixed.

 

I have a '94 GXE but I really like the SEs. So I painted my grill and other trim pieces. I went to a junkyard and picked up some SE gauges, but sometimes the speedometer will stop reading for a second or two, or it won't read at all. The other gauges work fine, but is it just a faulty gauge or could it be because its bein used on the GXE computer instead of the SE?

 

faulty gauge.
I promise that cluster will work fine in your car, provided it works fine.

 

faulty gauge, theres a thread on how to fix it. you have to replace a electrical piece on the back of the cluster and IIRC its like $5

 

SE (both VG and VE models) and GXE gauges are all interswappable. Only differences are whether or not there's an ABS light, or an 'OD Off" light, etc. The thing chrome is referring to is a capacitor i think, but that was mentioned for the tachometer being bouncy. Don't know if it's the same thing that normally causes the temp gauge to flake out tho, but even if it isn't, the culprit is most likely bad solder joints, which you should be able to see on the rear of the gauge if any are bad or not.

 

Can someone answer my question,

I have two codes, one is for one of my rear O2 sensors, and the other one is due to a faulty knock sensor. I have a 2001 Maxima (113k) and some people have told me that a faulty knock sensor does not trigger the check engline light, is this true? What does a knock sensor do? if i do not replace my knock sensor am i damaging my engine? how about my car in general?

Thank you guys in advance!

 

I am sure they can....
in the 5th gen section.
knock sensor is designed to sense detonation in the engine. if not fixed, you could get detonation (engine go "BOOM!"), not good.
run high octane gas, see if it goes away?

 

I have only been using v-power from shell so i probably do have to replace my knock sensor. Courtesy Nissan sells a knock sensor for $150.00. Do you have any idea how much labor will be?

I have had my car for about three years; i noticed the knock sensor code about a year ago. Strangely my SES light goes on and off but because of a poor auto mechanic i was never really aware of what was going on with my car. He would say "if it runs then go". I am no longer going to him as you can imagine.

Again do you have any idea what labor will be like? and do you think i have damaged my engine at all?

Do you think that my bad 02 sensor can have anything to do with this. Should i replace that first, since its cheaper? Sorry i am throwing a lot at you

I appreciate all of your help, thank you!

 

my 93' leaks, at the top corners of the windscreen water drips onto me and my passenger, is this common? will replacing the windscreen (which has a few chips anyway) and replacing the seal take care of this, or is it another seal that is broken that also needs attention? i don't have a sunroof and i don't know when the windscreen was installed or if it's factory

 

you would need to ask the 5th gen section for more help on that, sorry.

 

it should, unless there is hidden rust under the glass. it is not common, based on my experience (mine has 260 thousand miles/418,000km), and is original.

 

good to know, i was asking incase i went ahead and fixed the windscreen and then had to pull it out again to fix something i missed,

i'm going to get RAC insurance and take them up on their one free windscreen per year offer lol

 

Thanks guys. I'll pull it out this weekend and see about fixing the problem

 

Hi, my name is Stephen and I am deaf. I am new to this so please bear with me. I owns 1991 Maxima. It has a VG30E motor, factory rims, a factory tachometer (white), pw, pl, fully loaded, sunroof, factory spoiler. <---Not sure if it is GXE or SE) The only custom is muffler. It has 190,000 miles on it. A previous owner had it installed by a custom muffler shop according to the reciept. This car has 8 reports from car fax such as sold, bought from dealership, tickets, no accident at all. I paid this car for 1,200.

Now, I am on the last straw with this car because nobody can figures out whats wrong with my car except replaces a lot of things such as tuned up, change oils, change the fuel filter. I changed air mass flow sensor myself.

I have two different problems, not sure if both are related but similar. First is when its idling, it dropped to 300-450 RPM it started to shaking especially stopped at a stop sign or red light after drive it. I have no idea whats the problem is. Sometime it does or it doesnt. It will idle fine. My step dad, brother and the mechanic guys said the motor sounds fine. No knocking or anything according to them since I can't hear. What is the right rpm when you idling? 800 or 1,000 RPM?

Now another problem which is much worse than first one. This one gives me a huge headache. Note it does randoms when it wanted to. Sometime its fine and very smooth then suddenly, it get rough and jerky very violent causing the motor to stalling then its fine. Its like its fighting to make this car go. The RPM bouncing back and forth and I was trying to give it a gas but it doesnt as I floor it..nothing then boom, it went off then stalling. I was like my god! It does that only after 2,000 RPM so I had to drive it below 2,000 RPM but it still jerky a bit. I went through 3 different mechanic shops, they cant figure it out whats wrong with it. The engine light doesnt came on except window washer fluid (orange light from left side on tachometer) I filled it up and the light is gone. My step dad, brother and the mechanic guys said the motor sounds fine. The rpm reading sometime fine, it would lose the power even I floor it, it supposed to hit 5K RPM but it doesnt. It would go to 2,000 to 3,000 RPM and the meter climbing slowly even Im on straight road.

I am very frustrating and upset with my car especially at the mechanics. I dont know what else to do but ask for your helps and advices. I would be appreciated for an answer from you guys. Thank you.

 

idle should be about 800-1000, yes.

I presume the car is an auto trans; does it get to 2000 rpm no problem, and then fall flat on it's face? you say "jerky", would shaking also be accurate?
has any mechanic checked out the injectors? they are a relatively common issue.
you are right, it should rev to 6500, actually, before rev limit kicks in. does it rev fine in neutral/park?

based on the description, sounds like it is running in fail safe mode. can't remember what all causes that, but I do recall Mass air sensor being one that would.


now, about your car; are all the gauges white? mirrors flat black? tail lights black(ish), not red? NO chrome, anywhere (unless it's flaked off)? that is an SE.

 

How do I subscribe to threads?

 

Click on the " Thread Tools" drop box at the top of any thread, you will see the subscribe option there..

 

It is Auto Transmission. Yes, it can accelerate fine to pass 2,000 RPM without a problem except its random...sometime it wouldnt do that but drive like a normal car for a few days then acted up again for a few days straight. Yes, jerky means shaking.. sorry about not clearing that up. I meant shaking. Its really bad when it shakes so violent and stalling and shakes again. Its like the whole car shaking back and forth. Especially if I drives 35 to 60 mph in range, it does shaking, stalling and I pressed the gas pedal, it doesnt make the car go...just dead end then it will go...its weird. I dont know what it is. It made worse by 3,000 to 5,000 RPM.

I dont think the mechanics have ever check the fuel injection system. (he did replaced the fuel filter, probably havent check the fuel pump yet)

You mean fuel injector or there is more than a various injectors than fuel injector?

Yes, sometime it revs fine, sometimes it shaking when I let the gas pedal go in neutral/parking.

What do you mean running fail safe mode? I did replaced the MAF sensor along with air ram and replaced the air filter as well and the mechanic guy did replace the hoses as well. Still a same result.

 

same was happening to me. its the fuel injector. u may have a few bad ones. turn ur car on and pop ur hood ,wear gloves (thick ones) and pull ur spark plug wires on at a time but put it back tho one at a time. the ones that cause the car to feel n sound like its dying are the good injectors and the ones u pull out and the car stays the same (no affect) are ur bad injectors.

and if ur grill is the same color as the car its an SE. and if the taillights are dark and not red.

 

Ah, thanks. It is definitely SE. :-)

\Okay, let me clear this up...when I pull the spark plug wire at one a time, if it is dying, its a good injector. If it has no effect like motor running still, its a bad one?

For Fuel Injector, how much it cost to replace?

It is also possible to have a bad fuel pump as well?

 

if u havent done a tune up (new spark plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs, oil change, oil filter and air filter if u dont have a CAI) then do it 1st if you just got the car cuz it might need it. once all that is done pull out the spark plug wires and out it back 1 by 1 (the part of the wires that go to the spark plugs) and which ever ones make ur car stagger n lose force are the GOOD ones.

new ones from napa or autozone are like $110 each. used remanufactured ones are like 6 for $100 something on ebay or u can go to the classifieds here n go to 3rd gen section and sometimes ppl wreck there cars n part it out and u can them cheap from them or u can make a thread asking whos selling working ones.

im not sure bout fuel pump, i dont kno much on that

 

yup

 

how do high beams on our cars work? cuz i have to turn my light switch all the way to the end for my headlights to turn on. i know somethings not right. i shouldnt have to click all the way for low beams -_-

 

I rechecked my car to see how the headlights work to make sure. Now, by where the steering wheel, there is a stick on each side front of the steering wheel. I dont know what it called but on the right side of a stick is for wipers, and other side (left) is for headlight.

There is a small clockwise **** on the end by the stick, if you turn, it will click for orange lights to turn on. Now, last click to turn again, it turn the headlights on. You are doing right for low beam lights. Now for high beam lights, you just press foward by the left stick then thats high beam lights.

If you have a fog lights, there is a small button behind of the left stick. Hope my explaination is clear to you.

 

i have an 89 maxima 5speed and im trying to find a cold air intake or a short ram intake.. all i can find is on a 92 n newer.. will they fit onto my 89?? this is my first import any advice is nice.. also... when i got the car i pulled the plugs and they were gaped at close to .060 the book said .044 so i regapped them and i lost some power if i slam on the gas n shift.. so i went n got the Bosch 4 plugs and still the same.. any ideas how to get that momentum back??

 

yea i kno u have to push the switch stick forward to get high beams but i thought like other cars one click turns on the parking lights and low beams and the second click it turns on ur high beams.

im a guy.
are u a chic? (cuz u put the kiss smiley) if ur a dude that is not cool
-_- lol

 

Then you are doing right as I did with my car. It is exactly same way as you described it. Yeah, some cars is different on how the lights turn on works.

OMG, Im so sorry. I was trying to click a smiley face. Not a kissing face!
Im a guy, btw.

 

What size globes go in the auto mode switch that light up the P or C? or the ones that go in the push buttons like demister and dimmer? i also need ones for a digital climate control, my climate control buttons do not light up at all, only if i press them a small light comes on, but nothing else apart from the screen, i am going to buy globes today for other things so if i could get them all in it would be nice, i have never seen this kind before and if you don't know what you need the shops surely never know for you

 

lmao i was like lol

yea dats gay how the light switch is, smh

 

89 nissan maxima se.. vg30e looking for headers and wanted to know if anyone had any for sale.. oem, aftermarket.. doesnt matter..

 

Lol...yeah! Anyways, how much did it cost you to get your car fix for fuel injectors? Did you do it on your own or you sent it to the garage?

Do usually older cars like Japanese cars is harder to diagnosed with the problems in general car repair shops? Because Maxima is my second Japanese car. My first car is 94 Altima which I never had a problem for a year because I kept my Altima an updates with the car maintenances until someone rear-ended me in an accident. I was awarded for $2,000 by someone's insurance so that's how I got 91 Maxima. That's why I don't know much about it.

 

some older imports are bad for not throwing codes (3rd gens sometimes wont at all) but really older imports are usually simpler than all of the electronic crap on new cars. off of the top of my head, older imports can get wiring problems which can take a few hours to track down but thats it i think

injectors can be expensive, some places are $600+ with labor. apparently its not the hardest to do yourself though

 

check the 3rd gen classified section

 

Ah, I knew it gonna cost more than 600+ bucks but hopefully, I will tune it up better. Is it a good idea to take my car to Jiffy Lube for a tune up? Because it is illegal to do the oil change, etc at the apartment complex where I lives.

One more question that I need to know how to make my car better with fuel encomy. Usually my car can takes about 250 miles per tank...I know something isnt right about that. Whats the average miles per tank?

 

no, it won't.
92 accord cai will fit.
bosch sucks, get NGK. doesn't matter which, as long as it is NOT BOSCH!!
we drive jap, not euro.
I usually get about 375/tank. I also drive stick, so that is a factor.
if you are having injector problems, that is a major factor, too.
find a big parking lot (wal-mart), throw some big card board boxes down, and change the oil there (no promises you won't get in trouble, though).

 

well i know a mechanic whos gonna change mine for $75 but at a regular shop its a lot like $400 - $600. or u can do it urslef i made a thread dat should be a sticky on how to do it urself.

and bout the oil change do wat i do lol go to the back of the aparment complex area where its dead and no one can see n do it ther or buy wat u need from autozone n park on the side where dey cant see n do it ther too.

 

really if you want some place to change your oil, IMO just go to a Wal-Mart parking lot where people park their RV's and trailers and just hide in there and do it. i doubt any employees will give a flying fudge, and if theyre fine with trash camping in their parking lot its fine EDIT- DAMMIT BEN BEAT ME TO IT

 

I checked with my fuel injectors to see if it works or not. I let my car running and pop the hood. I used a rag towel to pull the spark plug wire one by one...by doing 3 front then 3 back...it shakes a bit when I pulled it out and its still running by pulling each time. So all 6 spark plugs that I pulled out is still running.

That means Im screwed because I have to replace all 6 fuel injectors??