JohnA

lol sorry, I just put pic instead of img :P

I haven't used forums in a long time, but I do know how to use bbcodes I've administered a few forums over the years (and I free lance as a web designer).

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

hahaa.. just poking fun mang

anyhoo.. carry on

ramlee

my heater fan is stuck on! i have the digital climate control, and as soon as i turn the key to the first position (no dash lights) the heater fan turns on to full speed. i have no control over the fan speed at all, even with all the climate control off it'll still blow. i can still adjust the temp/demist/floor vents/face vents etc

any idea what would cause this problem?

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Sounds like a bad fan control amp..


---> http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...-problems.html

jconde

I've got a 92 GXE (198K miles) with an exhaust manifold leak in the front. I've gotten the manifold off (only breaking 4 of the 6 studs . Does anyone know how far out of line the manifold ports can be and have it be reusable? If I lay a straightedge across them the center is high and I can see light on both sides, but I'm not sure how much the bolts would be able to pull them in.

Assuming that I do need a new one anyone know where I can get one? Most places only seem to list the rear (right hand) manifold.

John

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

take the manifold to a local machine shop, tell them you need it leveled out..

jconde

Thanks, I should have thought of that . . .

I notice several discussions about the exhaust manifold bolts, was there ever any general agreement on which kind to get? Or where to get them from?

John

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

300z turbo studs (Z31) from the dealership.

Parts( with nissan part #'s) you will need..If you are doing both exhaust manifold sides

exhaust manifold gaskets: (2) 14036-97E05
exhaust manifold studs: (6) 14065-V5004
exhaust manifold studs: (6) 14065-w4800
nuts: (12) 14039-w1500
lock washers: (12? maybe 24?) 14037-F6610

dragracer440wedge

Hello I'm new to this site. I just got a 1990 maxima and I would like to know the service procedures, steps to get the code or recode the touch entry system. Thank you for your help.

Ezra

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/454290/7

dragracer440wedge

Thank you Greeny for the link!!. The system works great. This is a very good site for looking up information for the maxima. I'm starting to really like this car.

Ezra

citimax

Hi

I have a 92 maxima se. The right headlight does not work. The brights and day running lights work on both sides. I replaced the headlight combo switch but it still does not work. Anyone know what else I should check.

Thanks

xx-Marshall-xx

iTrader: (15)

My "Bad Alternator" Code was thrown at my face.

But I checked it out at an advanced auto. They said its in perfect condition. It was replaced 2, maybe 3 years ago. I am really confused.

Story:

I was driving it pretty hard, shifted into second (hard) and then the lights went on. The lights seem to want to go away, but they dont. I disconnected my battery for about 30 mins, and its still throwing the code.

WTF is up dudes?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

i assume you already replaced the bulb? it's a multi-filament bulb, so it's entirely possible for either side's high or low to be out, while all other combinations work

jconde

Thanks again, I hate to be a bother but you listed 2 different types of studs. Does it take different ones front and back? I'm only planning on doing the front for now since it was only the front leaking.

John

citimax

I switched the bulb from right to left, but the right one still does not work. I am going to get a multimeter tomorrow to test out the connections at the bulb

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Code? What code? you mean the battery/alternator lights on the instrument cluster?

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Sorry, but i have no idea which is which.

r33mixx

Is there such a thing as a 1991 SE with a v8?

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

no.

Zero_webb

what size are the door and rear deck speakers? non-bose audio if that matters....

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

6.5" rear, 4x6 front

-ReLLiK-

iTrader: (1)

what's the best size tires to use (not brand wise) to have enough room to drop the car at least 1.7 (B&G)??? btw i have 17" 2006 Maxima rims

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

@ people still trying to drop beyond 1.5"

whatever size tires they are, you're going to be buying them often.. very often. unless you figure out how to fix the geometry issues so you won't have to compensate for your crappy camber by making the tires work harder.

-ReLLiK-

iTrader: (1)

lol if im gettin all 4 tire fairly new for $20, i can care less if they wear out. and stuff breaks even when a car isn't dropped. ESPECIALLY an old azz car like this. Thats why im going to Lincoln Tech. to fix it

Infam0usMax

New question about struts... all of them.... I get this nasty bounce and hard knock when i hit a few major bump or potholes and my dad told me that the struts a "froze" and i need to get some new ones. True? and if so Are the KYB GR-2 struts any good? Ive seen a lot of talk about Eibach spring and TOKICO struts set up...

Infam0usMax

I agree if u see that they are way cheaper then the others....that should tell u enough. hey it is what it is I agree with the no less then 1.5"

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

its possible the strut is stuck. I had one die on me, and it was locked all the way down. try getting on the corner that you suspect has a bad strut, and see if you can get the car to bounce.

if you aren't trying to mod your car, kyb is fine. if you want to do it up a bit, go with the toks. I recommend doing the springs at the same time, but you don't have to.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

IIRC there are seperate left and right relays.

Infam0usMax

Im thinking about getting some 18" wheels soon and a new brake set up also but i really dont want to take it to the extreme but yeah it tries to go down a lil when i push down on the back it seems like its both they try to go down but really dont move much also i dont know if u can help with this but i just did a vid in the dark because this sound really got to me tonight while driving ill do another vid 2marrow but this sounds means what?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ItwSUL9dqX0

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

no he means a 1.7" drop is gonna make your car handle like crap and cause ur tires to wear out alot quicker than a 1.2" drop like the one u get with eibach springs which is suppose to be designed specifically for the maxima to improve steerin suspension braking actual horspower (through added downforce) and actually save gas

http://eibach.com/cgi-bin/start.exe/...try=y&thid=122

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

and by relays you mean fuses. there are no relays controlling the headlights.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

actually eibachs are more expensive than some of the lower drops. so me saying deep drops are for idiots isn't a matter of me being 'too cheap'. the problem with dropping beyond a certain point messes up your camber curve. you can get camber bolts or other methods to fix the camber when the car is sitting still...... but as soon as your suspension starts moving while you're driving, your camber is going to be very very wrong.

reason is that the control arm starts pointing up when you drop the car. if you know basic college math, then you'll know that the the cosine (cos) of theta (Θ), aka cosΘ is highest when Θ=0 (ie, horizontal). if you increase OR decrease Θ, then cosΘ decreases.

• if you start with the control arm pointing down a little bit at resting ride height and set the camber within spec (-1 to .5 deg), then as you compress the suspension, the control arm angle (Θ) approaches zero, which increases the cosΘ value (distance from bottom of knuckle to body of car), aka negative camber, which (in the right amount) increases traction in a corner.
• if you start with the car already dropped 1.7" or whatever, then the control arm will already be horizontal-ish (Θ=~0), meaning as the suspension compresses, Θ becomes positive, decreasing the cosΘ, pulling the bottom of the tire in toward the body, aka positive camber, DECREASING traction in a corner. meaning your tires have to work harder to keep you out of a ditch, making your tires wear out faster. it also makes the car less fun to drive.

the problem CAN be fixed but it's not cheap, and there is no plug-and-play kit available to do so on our cars. so matter how far you drop, you will encounter this problem. but from what i understand, the eibachs are the only ones where the camber curve is somewhat correct, and that the benefits outweigh the drawbacks on those... but anything lower than about 1.5" and the drawbacks outweight the benefits.

Infam0usMax

I know that why I agreed with you lol you must have read it wrong...dont worry about it. but can u help with the other problem that I posted with the youtube vid link?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

it was the way you worded it. i read 'no less than 1.5"' as 'no less than [a] 1.5" [drop]'. anyways... that post i just did should be the official answer to everyone who talks about big drops tho.

as far as your video.... you might have a misfire. it's easier to feel on a manual, but does your car vibrate under load?

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

i have no idea what im listening for in that vid try it again in the daylight

dude im in my third year of college studying finance and i have know idea what kind of math that is or what hell a cosign of theta means

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

then you're doing it wrong. it's basic trigonometry. cosine = adjacent/hypotenuse. on a unit circle, cosine is the x-axis (horizontal). theta is the angle between the x axis and a raduis (in this case, that radius is the control arm)



cosΘ = the horizontal distance between your steering knuckle and the body of the car
sinΘ = how much you dropped the car, or any suspension travel

from the factory, the angled line is slightly past the 3-o'clock position. so as your suspension compresses, it moves toward the 3-o'clock position, where cosΘ is greatest, ie moar negative camber when you need it (cornering). if you drop, you're already at or behind the 3-o'clock position, so all you can do is pull the bottom of the wheel inward as the suspension compresses. make sense?

Infam0usMax

Im going to post a better vid in the daylight but its starts off walking in the front to the back the vid sucks but yeah it does have a real sick vibration to it while im just sitting there and i found out that night of the vid that when i turn the headlights on at a stop light/sign it causes it to vibe even more.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

how about when you're driving? esp when climbing hills? how bad is it then? you might have one dead injector (or something else disabling a cylinder like bad plug wire or harness connection)

PBfrEAk

So I have EVERYTHING off of my dash except the ACTUAL dash (the big top part.)

I've taken every screw I can see out. The ones on the sides, the gauges are all out and yet it still feels tight.

Are there any hidden I'm missing? Or is it just a yank and pull job from here?

Thanks guys. I owe you all a beer some day for all the stupid **** you have to answer lol