Hey guys!! Stupid question.how do I put a picture under my alias in this forum

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unfortunatly, its only for supporting members. there is an article in the FAQ about it.

 

how hard is it to change the thermostat on a 1993 max gxe... and where is it located on the 93 max also. and what are the steps in changing one

 

find where your upper radiator hose goes into a pipe juntion on the passenger side of the engine, and follow the short coolant hose down to where it hooks in on the side of the engine. the bottom of the short pipe hooks into the thermostat housing.

you just drain the coolant out of the engine, unhook the short pipe and unbolt the thermostat housing cover, scrape away all the old gasket material and get everything as dry as possible (so the RTV will seal properly), apply new thermostat RTV gasket stuff (you can find it near the rest of the RTV sealants.. it's labelled specifically for thermostat/waterpump) and put the new thermostat in (it's been a while since i did it... you might have to hold it in place with one hand while quickly slapping the cover on with the other hand, either way the jingle-valve thing goes UP), and then torque the housing bolts to 12-15 lb/ft

 

Hey guys my wipers don't work. Well I thought it was the wiper motor but that is fine. The 3 arms that connect the wipers to the wiper motor need replaced. The plastic parts that go over the little ball joints are shot. Anyone know where I can get new ones.

 

dealer for the whole assembly.
the pivots themselves are available in a brand called "HELP!"

 

1993 maxima this car does not heat up unless it is parked .... when i start to driving it the gauage falls under the C and when I park the gauage goes in between the H and C and when it is between the H and C no heat blows are its cold or nothing at all .... when it is on the C or under the C it blows what could be the problem

 

Go back and read all the previous responses to the same questions you asked before, please

 

Great. All I really need is the pivots. I tried googling the help brand but can't find out where to get them. Would a auto parts store have them.

 

Got a question about the spacers. since your taking off the EGR for the spacer kit will it effect the emisson that much to not pass the emissons test?

 

still looking for the condenser resistor for the ignition for my 1992 max please reply.

 

Yes, you will probably fail any emissions test without the egr.

 

I still have a dead #4 cylinder on a 90 maxima and I just replaced the injector and the compression is good, there is plenty of spark to the plug. The other cylinders are running good so I don’t think it’s the timing, I am wondering about the intake valves though, can they get stuck or go bad? And what can I do to test them?
Mike O.

 

Everything you just said is a contradiction to a dead cylinder..

1. you have verified good(blue)spark at the plug?

2. you have a new injector(new right? not a reman) and verified it is putting fuel into the cylinder? unless you pinched the o'ring @ installation, then it will be dumping too much fuel causing the cylinder to be flooded.

3. good compression

If all those things are verified good, there is absolutely no reason that cylinder shouldn't be working. Something in the 3 is not there, either fuel(either no fuel or too much)/ no spark(maybe weak spark but a long shot) or compression is not there..It has to be one or more of these things.

 

1. yes good spark, I can pull the plug wire off and pull it away from the plug a good 1-2 inches and hear it still throw a arc, also I have attached one of those inline testers with light. also a New plug.

2. new injector with new o rings

3. Good compression 120 psi

That's my Dilemma! I don't know what eles could be causing the problem.
When I remove the plug wire, the engins RPM do not change and the plug goes foul after awhile.

What eles do I need to check for?

 

The plug "goes foul" ??

fuel fouled?

Oil fouled?

 

I'm not sure... how can I tell the difference?
it just gets dark looking.

 

Is there anything wet on the plug end?


If yes, give it a quick sniff, it should either be a fuel smell, or a oil smell.

If no, is it a black soot?

 

I looked at some websites with fouled plug pics and none really looked like mine.
There was no black soot, but what if it smells of oil or gas, what then?

 

If it is gas fouled, then you most likely have a pinched injector o'ring, pretty common mistake made during injector installation on the these cars. you gotta lube the hell out of them before pushing them into the fuel rail, and sometimes they still will pinch.

Oil fouled= extremely worn piston rings.

 

are you sure the injector is getting a signal?

 

No, how can I do that?

 

measure for voltage across the injector terminals, with the engine running. if you get any reading, it should be okay.
if not,

 

Ok, thanks Ben and Greeny I'll check your suggestion.
Just for my info, what if there is no voltage across the terminals, then what?

 

this is the ugly condenser resistor i have

 

Ok dude, we get the picture.

Give caped some time to find one, if he cant, i will try to find one in my local j-yard..

 

sorry greeny it was for cape on a pm and i dont know what i did and put it on the forum my bad

 

Hopefully, this has not been answered before...I searched to no avail... My problem is, my fuel cap door will not open..Yes its freezing here in MN..so my guess would be that it is frozen shut. I banged around the edges..to try and release any frozen sides..but the door wont open..I am ready to just take a screw driver and pop the bastard open..but I thought, I would ask and see if anyone has had this problem..I am not sure if the push down lever by the driver door is actually releaseing the fuel door....any help would be cool..would rather not break things unless I have to.

 

Yep, it's probably frozen shut. solution: You need a helper to get the door open, have the helper hold the door popper lever up while you pry it open with the screwdriver..Careful not to damage the door while prying.

 

https://www.dormanproducts.com/cgi-b...75012&item_no=

 

I was having some pretty loud squealing in my front brakes (sounded like the front passenger side) and saw that my brake pads were low, so I changed them. Afterward, the noise just got louder. I checked my rotors and those are just fine. Any suggestions as to what the issue could be? I'm going to try checking to see if my pads are on too tight but it's way too cold for that today so it'll have to wait for another day.

Thanks for helping out the noob.

 

Check the slide pins, they may be seized up.

 

I have a quick question for a cold air intake. After reading some other threads I found that you guys said that a 93 accord CAI would work with a 90 degree bend for a VG30E. I found on e-bay and I was wondering if this is the right one since there are a few different ones. And what would I need to connect the 70 degree pipe to the 90 degree one? Thanks in advance!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-91...spagenameZWDVW

 

I just ran into this same problem with my 1994 Maxima. Started fine this morning, went out at noon and it wouldn't turn over. All I get is a fast clicking noise. I had a guy with a booster come over and after he hooked it up it started fine. I ran it for half an hour then turned it off. I tried to start it back up immediately and only got the clicking again. Tested the battery and looks fine. Any ideas?

 

starter.

 

Thanks for the quik reply. Got any idea about cost?

 

these prices are tailored to my zip code, so you may want to check your local sources.

 

Hello all! This is my first post and I would like to say how much I appreciate everyone's knowledge. I have used the site in the past better understand the Bose issues, and should be after market soon.

The issue I am dealing with now (I have already searched the site looking for info) is that the electronic heater/ac control unit in my 94 GLE is having problems. Up until the last month it would work when it decided to, sometimes this would be working 100% properly, sometimes doing it's job but with nothing displayed (kind of like the stereo before it died), and lately not working at all but displaying what it would if it was. Sometimes when it does decide to work the display shows that is is blowing full blast, only it is the exact opposite.

The AC function has the same issue, not working all of the time etc.

I would like to know if anyone has experienced the same issue and how they resolved it. My initial thinking has been to swap out the control unit from the dash with a new one, but I have been unable to locate the electronic ones at my local junkyard. I have also thought that it should be fairly easy to replace it with a standard analog controller, but have not checked.

I have checked the fuses under the dash and they appear to be fine. I have also had friends mention that it could be a relay, but I am unsure about this.

Your expertise would be greatly appreciated, drivign around in 19 degree weather is getting a little old.

Thanks!

 

umm... there is no such thing as a 94GLE. You mean GXE? If it's a GLE of any type then it's 4th gen or newer (some early 95 M.Y. cars were built in late 1994)

does your car look like this:
http://forums.maxima.org/6730128-post39.html

if it does you're in the right place.

 

I guess it would have to be a GXE then, the car was bought for $2k and has had $4k dumped into it just to keep it running . it's not nice like a lot of the Maximas you guys have. Either way it's the climate control unit and having heat/ac I am concerned about.