*NOOBIES* The "I am new here,but have a question" thread..(post your questions here)
#2962
Sup guys... yep its me back again I just spent about $600 getting new parts and getting the installed... the only other problem that im having is the same sound from when I push the gas hard to get up and go when in a rush but its this sound that come from where Im not sure... but im guessing it the Trans you hear this grinding sound and u can feel it a little under ur feet...also I think its about time to get a new fuel injector(s) when the car is running it has a real bad vibration to it and when im at lights and sitting there its shakes if i pop the hood and pull on that middle injector it doesnt shake...whats the deal with that?
1. Trans prob?
2. Injector prob?
also...does anybody know where i can buy a trunk like this? or i cant and if i was to fiberglass it how hard would it be?
1. Trans prob?
2. Injector prob?
also...does anybody know where i can buy a trunk like this? or i cant and if i was to fiberglass it how hard would it be?
as for the other thing... i'm not sure i get what you're talking about? pulling on the injector you mean its plug???) and it stops shaking? a vibration at idle that gets better when you fiddle with the injector plug? probably a bad connection on the plug... loose connectors i bet. and what 'same sound'? i have a bad memory.
#2963
thats where tint and air conditioning help, i already have leather seats in my 92 max but i want the 4th gen heated leather seats and there more comfy for me but im a bigger guy so im sure its diff for others, lots of people say the 3rd gen seats are better, as for the mods, i know the front bolts match up for the seats and the back rails need some modding like greeny said, it shouldnt be to hard at all, i may be wrong but why not swap the rails with the seats out of the 4th gen? anyone have any thoughts on this? i found some old threads but they all modded them and all the pics were long gone, also i originally got the idea from this guy with a 3rd gen with heated leather seats from a 4th gen on car domain, looked very nice and im in manitoba canada, we get -40's for atleast a month here off and on in the winter, so i gots to have heated seats..
https://www.heatedseatkits.com/heate...at3/index.html (I am not endorsing them in particular, they are just being used as an example)
#2964
hey guys,
this may be a silly question but i just got a FSTB in today for a 5.5 gen and im gonna put it on my 92 max now the bolts that hold it on, is there a torgue specification for these when tightening them back up?
thanks
this may be a silly question but i just got a FSTB in today for a 5.5 gen and im gonna put it on my 92 max now the bolts that hold it on, is there a torgue specification for these when tightening them back up?
thanks
#2965
#2966
im not sure if imma get a reply to this cause im not sure any of you have tryed it but. does anyone know if g35 brakes would fit on the 90 third gen. imma have the 17" se wheels later.
my friend has one and i have been wondering if they would fit by any chance. front or rear, or all 4
any input would help. thanks
my friend has one and i have been wondering if they would fit by any chance. front or rear, or all 4
any input would help. thanks
#2967
internetautomar ships to canada; his parts are not cheap-chinese knockoffs, but he has good prices.
disks and calipers are fine to get used, assuming the disks aren't warped or deeply scored. they can be turned for relatively low cost.
our cars don't use u-joints, they use cv(Constant Velocity) joints. but regardless, if you need to replace them, you can get rebuilt ones for about $100 US, at most parts stores.
disks and calipers are fine to get used, assuming the disks aren't warped or deeply scored. they can be turned for relatively low cost.
our cars don't use u-joints, they use cv(Constant Velocity) joints. but regardless, if you need to replace them, you can get rebuilt ones for about $100 US, at most parts stores.
I tried making an account on his site, but there's only an option for United States for Country when making one.
Are you sure he ships to Canada?
and would you also know how it would be for shipping to Canada?
thanks.
#2968
I Have 98 Max with Electrical problems. One of The Ignition Coils Keeps Overheating and Burning to the Touch. Someone Said it might be The Ballast Resistor.....? Have anyone heard about these Problems? HELP!!! slick_partna09@hotmail.com Thank You!
#2969
I Have 98 Max with Electrical problems. One of The Ignition Coils Keeps Overheating and Burning to the Touch. Someone Said it might be The Ballast Resistor.....? Have anyone heard about these Problems? HELP!!! slick_partna09@hotmail.com Thank You!
#2970
PM me with what you are looking for and I'll see what I can do.
#2971
I've got a '90 Maxima SE with OEM fog lamps. One of the bulbs is burned out and I've got a replacement bulb but I can't figure out how to remove the lens to get access to the bulb and reflector. Anyone know how to get it open? Thanks.
#2972
so i got my FTSB installed today, im lowered on tokico blues and B&G springs, i was getting a lot of bounce and up and down on both sides of the front end, all i can say after installing the FTSB is WOWW what a difference, i didnt think it would be a very noticable diff, now i need the rear one and maybe a SFC stage 1? hehe
anyway thanks for the info man
#2973
so i got my FTSB installed today, im lowered on tokico blues and B&G springs, i was getting a lot of bounce and up and down on both sides of the front end, all i can say after installing the FTSB is WOWW what a difference, i didnt think it would be a very noticable diff, now i need the rear one and maybe a SFC stage 1? hehe
anyway thanks for the info man
anyway thanks for the info man
#2974
#2975
somewhat NWS: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oiUHFu88j4w
in victorian terms, "i've heard you will really like the results"
Last edited by CapedCadaver; 03-04-2009 at 06:01 PM.
#2976
Violence on the acceleration!
While cruising on the highway, the entire car shudders when I hit the gas, and if I let up or push down harder it stops. I've had axles, struts, and tires replaced since the problem began (these were necessary replacements for other problems) and am now trying to tackle the High Speed Farting problem. Just got back from a tranny shop and was told that a bad torque converter could definitely cause the problem, offered to fix it (replace it, which entails removing the tranny) for $585 on eastern Long Island in NY. I'm not sure if this is a good price, so I'm trying to get some research done on this stuff.
I've also been reading that it could have something to do with axles, CV joints, the knock sensor, etc., and I'm not really sure how to address this problem.
I'd loot and pillage for a decent garage. I want to strip that whole machine down to her bolts and put her all back together again.
I've also been reading that it could have something to do with axles, CV joints, the knock sensor, etc., and I'm not really sure how to address this problem.
I'd loot and pillage for a decent garage. I want to strip that whole machine down to her bolts and put her all back together again.
#2977
While cruising on the highway, the entire car shudders when I hit the gas, and if I let up or push down harder it stops. I've had axles, struts, and tires replaced since the problem began (these were necessary replacements for other problems) and am now trying to tackle the High Speed Farting problem. Just got back from a tranny shop and was told that a bad torque converter could definitely cause the problem, offered to fix it (replace it, which entails removing the tranny) for $585 on eastern Long Island in NY. I'm not sure if this is a good price, so I'm trying to get some research done on this stuff.
I've also been reading that it could have something to do with axles, CV joints, the knock sensor, etc., and I'm not really sure how to address this problem.
I'd loot and pillage for a decent garage. I want to strip that whole machine down to her bolts and put her all back together again.
I've also been reading that it could have something to do with axles, CV joints, the knock sensor, etc., and I'm not really sure how to address this problem.
I'd loot and pillage for a decent garage. I want to strip that whole machine down to her bolts and put her all back together again.
They are easy enough to at least check, just measure the resistance across injector contacts. If its outside of the 10-14 ohm range then it probably doesnt work or only works some of the time.
#2978
While cruising on the highway, the entire car shudders when I hit the gas, and if I let up or push down harder it stops. I've had axles, struts, and tires replaced since the problem began (these were necessary replacements for other problems) and am now trying to tackle the High Speed Farting problem. Just got back from a tranny shop and was told that a bad torque converter could definitely cause the problem, offered to fix it (replace it, which entails removing the tranny) for $585 on eastern Long Island in NY. I'm not sure if this is a good price, so I'm trying to get some research done on this stuff.
I've also been reading that it could have something to do with axles, CV joints, the knock sensor, etc., and I'm not really sure how to address this problem.
I'd loot and pillage for a decent garage. I want to strip that whole machine down to her bolts and put her all back together again.
I've also been reading that it could have something to do with axles, CV joints, the knock sensor, etc., and I'm not really sure how to address this problem.
I'd loot and pillage for a decent garage. I want to strip that whole machine down to her bolts and put her all back together again.
#2979
Sounds like an injector issue actually, you might be running on 5 cylinders. At certain RPMs the vibration frequencies put out by the engine in this condition will hit fundamental frequencies in the car body and you will have that shudder.
They are easy enough to at least check, just measure the resistance across injector contacts. If its outside of the 10-14 ohm range then it probably doesnt work or only works some of the time.
They are easy enough to at least check, just measure the resistance across injector contacts. If its outside of the 10-14 ohm range then it probably doesnt work or only works some of the time.
how does the car idle? does the vibration show up if you rev it in neutral? How bout if you brake-stall it in drive (left foot hard on brake, rev engine with right foot)? i would think it's an injector too, but check the resistance figures (or a balance test - pull one plug wire at a time. if the rpm dips, that injector works. if no change at all, the cylinder isn't firing)
If I was having a misfire or a dead cylinder, wouldn't my engine have less functionality? It's still got some serious gusto when you hit the pedal.
Also, I replaced the spark plugs myself about two years ago, spaced them as properly as I could, didn't mess up any of the threading. I spaced and re-spaced about four times just to be absolutely positive they were within limits, and even did a test run of seeing what the socket wrench would do (to see if any part of it would mess with the space) and it did nothing. I'm inexperienced but try to be as concise as possible.
What I am getting is that it could be (1) fuel injectors (2) spark plugs (3) torque converter (4) gremlins (5) some belt or chain slipping. The worst part is that I don't remember exactly when this specific problem started, but I've had the fuel injectors professionally replaced and I did the spark plugs (after which my car ran <i>significantly</i> better), and I've heard/read that 3rd gen trannies are some of the more unreliable ones made by Nissan.
Thank you for your help and I'll measure me some Ohms tomorrow and pull some plugs and see what happens. Although I am thinking about taking my mechanic up on his offer, since he guaranteed me it would fix the problem (after a 2-minute test drive and only checking the tranny's dipstick [that sounds sexy]) and that could lead to all sorts of fun.
#2980
what brand of spark plugs are you using? you can use any flavor of NGK that you like, as long as they're NGK. back up to the 3rd gen main page, and go to the 'general maintenance sticky' post #18 and follow the link that will tell you how to pull codes from your ECU. you might get a code back that would indicate some sort of sensor or electrical malfunction (for example, i used to have a code 33 because my 02 sensor harness had a broken wire).
also, were your replacement ignition coils NEW, or were they just pulled from a car with lower miles? Double check to make sure they have no cracks. The tranny on the VE engine was fine. The only problem with the 3rd gen trannys was the one on the VG (SOHC) engine, because they supposedly used the same internals as the tranny they had on the late-80s Stanzas (which only made like 115lb/ft of torque)
also, were your replacement ignition coils NEW, or were they just pulled from a car with lower miles? Double check to make sure they have no cracks. The tranny on the VE engine was fine. The only problem with the 3rd gen trannys was the one on the VG (SOHC) engine, because they supposedly used the same internals as the tranny they had on the late-80s Stanzas (which only made like 115lb/ft of torque)
Last edited by CapedCadaver; 03-05-2009 at 06:00 PM.
#2981
Alright guys....yet another question for you.
My key is broke in my ignition...(don't ask how)...and NOW its jammed in to the point I can't see it...(again don't ask).
I have a parts car that I'd like to switch ignitions with...at least for now...(my car is sitting in a parking lot up at school)
Is there any other way to get the ignition assembly off of the steering column other than drilling out the rivet's holding it on??
I've heard that some GM's have like a pin where if you put the key in you can push the pin and the ignition pulls out of the whole assembly...
Thank you so much for any help.
My key is broke in my ignition...(don't ask how)...and NOW its jammed in to the point I can't see it...(again don't ask).
I have a parts car that I'd like to switch ignitions with...at least for now...(my car is sitting in a parking lot up at school)
Is there any other way to get the ignition assembly off of the steering column other than drilling out the rivet's holding it on??
I've heard that some GM's have like a pin where if you put the key in you can push the pin and the ignition pulls out of the whole assembly...
Thank you so much for any help.
#2982
Alright guys....yet another question for you.
My key is broke in my ignition...(don't ask how)...and NOW its jammed in to the point I can't see it...(again don't ask).
I have a parts car that I'd like to switch ignitions with...at least for now...(my car is sitting in a parking lot up at school)
Is there any other way to get the ignition assembly off of the steering column other than drilling out the rivet's holding it on??
I've heard that some GM's have like a pin where if you put the key in you can push the pin and the ignition pulls out of the whole assembly...
Thank you so much for any help.
My key is broke in my ignition...(don't ask how)...and NOW its jammed in to the point I can't see it...(again don't ask).
I have a parts car that I'd like to switch ignitions with...at least for now...(my car is sitting in a parking lot up at school)
Is there any other way to get the ignition assembly off of the steering column other than drilling out the rivet's holding it on??
I've heard that some GM's have like a pin where if you put the key in you can push the pin and the ignition pulls out of the whole assembly...
Thank you so much for any help.
no.
as for the gm thing, I believe its safe to call on that "fact"
btw, a locksmith can get that key out and have a new one made from it(ask me how I know!).
if you wanna DIY, you can just replace teh "rivets" with screws, because that is all they are(they need to be removed with a bolt extraction kit). its a security feature, designed to prevent theft (but since its an "old" car, i think you may be okay with simply doing that (new ones from courtesy are pretty cheap, but not as cheap as a trip to the hardware store.)
Last edited by BenStoked; 03-06-2009 at 05:14 AM.
#2983
I just did a balance test as CapedCadaver recommended: the RPMs dipped significantly while pulling the wire on the 1,2,3, and 6, and still dipped although not AS noticeably pulling the 4 and 5. Now: Should I test resistance across the injector contacts too or did I pretty much find the same results (I understand they measure two different things, but ultimately the workability of the parts themselves), and if so, where are the contacts? I thought the whole of them were buried under the manifold.
Also, what are the diagnostic problems of a bad torque converter? I'm having trouble finding info.
As far as I know, the ignition coils were new, I think the arm that the injectors work on was replaced too. I cannot state with certainty unfortunately and I can't seem to find the receipt in my files, which are organized but can be confounding since we have three 3rd gen Maximas in my family under the same roof.
Also, the spark plugs are platinum NGK's, I wanted to make sure I was putting the best I could find (at PepBoys in Philly) in there since she's old enough to buy the nice things for, and I figured anything making sparks near lots of flammable stuff should be treated with plenty of respect. I will investigate the ECU later in the day.
I'm driving the 92GXE, which I thought was only assigned the SOHC VG, therefore the stupid Stanza tranny.
Also, what are the diagnostic problems of a bad torque converter? I'm having trouble finding info.
what brand of spark plugs are you using? you can use any flavor of NGK that you like, as long as they're NGK. back up to the 3rd gen main page, and go to the 'general maintenance sticky' post #18 and follow the link that will tell you how to pull codes from your ECU. you might get a code back that would indicate some sort of sensor or electrical malfunction (for example, i used to have a code 33 because my 02 sensor harness had a broken wire).
also, were your replacement ignition coils NEW, or were they just pulled from a car with lower miles? Double check to make sure they have no cracks. The tranny on the VE engine was fine. The only problem with the 3rd gen trannys was the one on the VG (SOHC) engine, because they supposedly used the same internals as the tranny they had on the late-80s Stanzas (which only made like 115lb/ft of torque)
also, were your replacement ignition coils NEW, or were they just pulled from a car with lower miles? Double check to make sure they have no cracks. The tranny on the VE engine was fine. The only problem with the 3rd gen trannys was the one on the VG (SOHC) engine, because they supposedly used the same internals as the tranny they had on the late-80s Stanzas (which only made like 115lb/ft of torque)
Also, the spark plugs are platinum NGK's, I wanted to make sure I was putting the best I could find (at PepBoys in Philly) in there since she's old enough to buy the nice things for, and I figured anything making sparks near lots of flammable stuff should be treated with plenty of respect. I will investigate the ECU later in the day.
I'm driving the 92GXE, which I thought was only assigned the SOHC VG, therefore the stupid Stanza tranny.
#2984
I just did a balance test as CapedCadaver recommended: the RPMs dipped significantly while pulling the wire on the 1,2,3, and 6, and still dipped although not AS noticeably pulling the 4 and 5. Now: Should I test resistance across the injector contacts too or did I pretty much find the same results (I understand they measure two different things, but ultimately the workability of the parts themselves), and if so, where are the contacts? I thought the whole of them were buried under the manifold.
Also, what are the diagnostic problems of a bad torque converter? I'm having trouble finding info.
As far as I know, the ignition coils were new, I think the arm that the injectors work on was replaced too. I cannot state with certainty unfortunately and I can't seem to find the receipt in my files, which are organized but can be confounding since we have three 3rd gen Maximas in my family under the same roof.
Also, the spark plugs are platinum NGK's, I wanted to make sure I was putting the best I could find (at PepBoys in Philly) in there since she's old enough to buy the nice things for, and I figured anything making sparks near lots of flammable stuff should be treated with plenty of respect. I will investigate the ECU later in the day.
I'm driving the 92GXE, which I thought was only assigned the SOHC VG, therefore the stupid Stanza tranny.
Also, what are the diagnostic problems of a bad torque converter? I'm having trouble finding info.
As far as I know, the ignition coils were new, I think the arm that the injectors work on was replaced too. I cannot state with certainty unfortunately and I can't seem to find the receipt in my files, which are organized but can be confounding since we have three 3rd gen Maximas in my family under the same roof.
Also, the spark plugs are platinum NGK's, I wanted to make sure I was putting the best I could find (at PepBoys in Philly) in there since she's old enough to buy the nice things for, and I figured anything making sparks near lots of flammable stuff should be treated with plenty of respect. I will investigate the ECU later in the day.
I'm driving the 92GXE, which I thought was only assigned the SOHC VG, therefore the stupid Stanza tranny.
anyhow, go ahead and test the resistance on those. I had a 'slight change' like that on a cylinder and it ended up being out of spec, tho still partially working. but once they start to fail they can't be saved, so you're just gonna have to replace them as soon as you can. And remember, DO NOT buy remans. Contrary to popular belief, reman injectors for 3rd gens are actually hand-"refurbished" by Satan himself, in a small factory in the 7th level of Hell... they are not refurbished in an earth-bound auto parts facility as you've probably been led to believe. Brand New "Python" injectors are manufactured in a separate facility by some high-ranking demons, in the 8th level of Hell, so they're even worse.
#2985
ok i have a question about my exhaust... i have a 91 ve. im looking to get a full exhaust system, i was thinking the pacesetter catback http://www.pacesetterparts.com/1989-...eel-p-214.html but from there im not sure.
what exhaust header/manifold and y pipe should i get. is there a full setup most people prefer or what. also i need to make sure it will all align. thanks
what exhaust header/manifold and y pipe should i get. is there a full setup most people prefer or what. also i need to make sure it will all align. thanks
#2986
I'll just do it myself...figured if it wasnt in the FSM I was SOL, but i figured I'd ask in case.
Thanks!!
#2987
ok i have a question about my exhaust... i have a 91 ve. im looking to get a full exhaust system, i was thinking the pacesetter catback http://www.pacesetterparts.com/1989-...eel-p-214.html but from there im not sure.
what exhaust header/manifold and y pipe should i get. is there a full setup most people prefer or what. also i need to make sure it will all align. thanks
what exhaust header/manifold and y pipe should i get. is there a full setup most people prefer or what. also i need to make sure it will all align. thanks
Anyhow, you're gonna want the Warpspeed ypipe; it's good for about 15HP. There are no headers available that fit; the only ones made are from Pacesetter, and i heard that they hit the power steering rack or something like that. I wouldn't know about that catbacks tho.. i just have a custom-bent 2.5" pipe (2.5" is overkill btw... 2.25" will probably work better) and shortly will be putting a Q45 muffler on to finish off the 2.5" setup.
#2988
If it doesn't work, you were just gonna switch the ignition anyhow, right? So what do you have to lose?
#2989
yea i have a 91 chevy and the 92 maxima i just typed fast and didnt think...anyway i have a ve i know my stuff. so you think it would be best to get stock exhaust manifolds, and new bolts then warpspeed y pipe (could i get a link to it) and see if the pacesetter exhaust will fit to that y pipe. also my exhaust is all rusty and holes everywere so thats why.
#2990
yea i have a 91 chevy and the 92 maxima i just typed fast and didnt think...anyway i have a ve i know my stuff. so you think it would be best to get stock exhaust manifolds, and new bolts then warpspeed y pipe (could i get a link to it) and see if the pacesetter exhaust will fit to that y pipe. also my exhaust is all rusty and holes everywere so thats why.
You can get the ypipe here http://www.warpspeedperformance.com/nissan.htm (i think. i got mine from another member, but i think that site is still taking orders for the VE pipe). You can actually get a full cat-back from Warpspeed to, according to that page. Looking at it, I think my b-pipe is actually a Warpspeed piece, rather than a custom-bent piece at some exhaust shop as i stated a few posts up (i got that from the same person that i got my ypipe from, so i didn't know who actually made it)
#2991
i said i need to get stock exhaust manifold because everything is so janky. My exhaust "note" literally changes probably once a month depending on what rusted part i blow out or whatever. and i said stock because i heard they are better. or should i go with pacesetter headers ws y pipe pacesetter catback?
#2992
i said i need to get stock exhaust manifold because everything is so janky. My exhaust "note" literally changes probably once a month depending on what rusted part i blow out or whatever. and i said stock because i heard they are better. or should i go with pacesetter headers ws y pipe pacesetter catback?
Oh and the PS headers don't have the same flange locations as stock, so you HAVE to use the PS ypipe with it if you used PS headers. But you're not gonna do that anyways so the WSP pipe is the way to go.
#2994
#2998
#3000
another question....and new topic. after the manifold question is answered. if i get a 2 inch drop how do i tell clearance with tires. what i wanted to do was get the drop with 17s. is there anyway to determine the right size before or what. also do the 92 maximas have a 5/100 bolt pattern or what?.