nothing...? i guss this is my last post guys thankx for the help again.

 

can't buy the trunk... you have to make it yourself with extra metal and weld it on, smooth it out with bondo and then paint it.

as for the other thing... i'm not sure i get what you're talking about? pulling on the injector you mean its plug???) and it stops shaking? a vibration at idle that gets better when you fiddle with the injector plug? probably a bad connection on the plug... loose connectors i bet. and what 'same sound'? i have a bad memory.

 

easiest solution IMO:
https://www.heatedseatkits.com/heate...at3/index.html (I am not endorsing them in particular, they are just being used as an example)

 

hey guys,

this may be a silly question but i just got a FSTB in today for a 5.5 gen and im gonna put it on my 92 max now the bolts that hold it on, is there a torgue specification for these when tightening them back up?

thanks

 

the 3 top nuts? they should be 29-40 lb/ft

 

im not sure if imma get a reply to this cause im not sure any of you have tryed it but. does anyone know if g35 brakes would fit on the 90 third gen. imma have the 17" se wheels later.

my friend has one and i have been wondering if they would fit by any chance. front or rear, or all 4

any input would help. thanks

 

I tried making an account on his site, but there's only an option for United States for Country when making one.

Are you sure he ships to Canada?
and would you also know how it would be for shipping to Canada?
thanks.

 

I Have 98 Max with Electrical problems. One of The Ignition Coils Keeps Overheating and Burning to the Touch. Someone Said it might be The Ballast Resistor.....? Have anyone heard about these Problems? HELP!!! slick_partna09@hotmail.com Thank You!

 

try the 4th gen section... this section is for the 89-94 only.

 

I don't have the site setup to do international shipping since I only ship to canada via USPS from me directly. Certain items I have stocked at warehouses other than my own, so to ship to canada I need to get them to me first and then I will ship to canada.
PM me with what you are looking for and I'll see what I can do.

 

I've got a '90 Maxima SE with OEM fog lamps. One of the bulbs is burned out and I've got a replacement bulb but I can't figure out how to remove the lens to get access to the bulb and reflector. Anyone know how to get it open? Thanks.

 

so i got my FTSB installed today, im lowered on tokico blues and B&G springs, i was getting a lot of bounce and up and down on both sides of the front end, all i can say after installing the FTSB is WOWW what a difference, i didnt think it would be a very noticable diff, now i need the rear one and maybe a SFC stage 1? hehe

anyway thanks for the info man

 

get a blehmco LTB and Suspension Techniques front and rear swaybars.. i don't actually have them on my car... but from what i've heard, it'll make you

 

 

somewhat NWS: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oiUHFu88j4w

in victorian terms, "i've heard you will really like the results"

 

While cruising on the highway, the entire car shudders when I hit the gas, and if I let up or push down harder it stops. I've had axles, struts, and tires replaced since the problem began (these were necessary replacements for other problems) and am now trying to tackle the High Speed Farting problem. Just got back from a tranny shop and was told that a bad torque converter could definitely cause the problem, offered to fix it (replace it, which entails removing the tranny) for $585 on eastern Long Island in NY. I'm not sure if this is a good price, so I'm trying to get some research done on this stuff.

I've also been reading that it could have something to do with axles, CV joints, the knock sensor, etc., and I'm not really sure how to address this problem.

I'd loot and pillage for a decent garage. I want to strip that whole machine down to her bolts and put her all back together again.

 

Sounds like an injector issue actually, you might be running on 5 cylinders. At certain RPMs the vibration frequencies put out by the engine in this condition will hit fundamental frequencies in the car body and you will have that shudder.

They are easy enough to at least check, just measure the resistance across injector contacts. If its outside of the 10-14 ohm range then it probably doesnt work or only works some of the time.

 

how does the car idle? does the vibration show up if you rev it in neutral? How bout if you brake-stall it in drive (left foot hard on brake, rev engine with right foot)? i would think it's an injector too, but check the resistance figures (or a balance test - pull one plug wire at a time. if the rpm dips, that injector works. if no change at all, the cylinder isn't firing)

 

I forgot to add fuel injectors to that list of replaced parts: I bought a few to replace myself, took off the manifold and found that a few of them had practically exploded and I couldn't get them all out. My mechanic cleaned that one up for me and put in 6 new injectors (or so he says). I will check them tomorrow though, just in case, so thank you.

The car idles pretty well. However, when it starts up after being cold for about 6 hours, I'll put my foot on the pedal lightly to do a constant rev at about 2000 RPM, and it will dip down and pop up with that small amount of pressure until it gets warmer, then it won't be as spastic anymore.

If I was having a misfire or a dead cylinder, wouldn't my engine have less functionality? It's still got some serious gusto when you hit the pedal.

Also, I replaced the spark plugs myself about two years ago, spaced them as properly as I could, didn't mess up any of the threading. I spaced and re-spaced about four times just to be absolutely positive they were within limits, and even did a test run of seeing what the socket wrench would do (to see if any part of it would mess with the space) and it did nothing. I'm inexperienced but try to be as concise as possible.

What I am getting is that it could be (1) fuel injectors (2) spark plugs (3) torque converter (4) gremlins (5) some belt or chain slipping. The worst part is that I don't remember exactly when this specific problem started, but I've had the fuel injectors professionally replaced and I did the spark plugs (after which my car ran <i>significantly</i> better), and I've heard/read that 3rd gen trannies are some of the more unreliable ones made by Nissan.

Thank you for your help and I'll measure me some Ohms tomorrow and pull some plugs and see what happens. Although I am thinking about taking my mechanic up on his offer, since he guaranteed me it would fix the problem (after a 2-minute test drive and only checking the tranny's dipstick [that sounds sexy]) and that could lead to all sorts of fun.

 

what brand of spark plugs are you using? you can use any flavor of NGK that you like, as long as they're NGK. back up to the 3rd gen main page, and go to the 'general maintenance sticky' post #18 and follow the link that will tell you how to pull codes from your ECU. you might get a code back that would indicate some sort of sensor or electrical malfunction (for example, i used to have a code 33 because my 02 sensor harness had a broken wire).

also, were your replacement ignition coils NEW, or were they just pulled from a car with lower miles? Double check to make sure they have no cracks. The tranny on the VE engine was fine. The only problem with the 3rd gen trannys was the one on the VG (SOHC) engine, because they supposedly used the same internals as the tranny they had on the late-80s Stanzas (which only made like 115lb/ft of torque)

 

Alright guys....yet another question for you.

My key is broke in my ignition...(don't ask how)...and NOW its jammed in to the point I can't see it...(again don't ask).

I have a parts car that I'd like to switch ignitions with...at least for now...(my car is sitting in a parking lot up at school)

Is there any other way to get the ignition assembly off of the steering column other than drilling out the rivet's holding it on??

I've heard that some GM's have like a pin where if you put the key in you can push the pin and the ignition pulls out of the whole assembly...

Thank you so much for any help.

 

short answer?
no.

as for the gm thing, I believe its safe to call on that "fact"

btw, a locksmith can get that key out and have a new one made from it(ask me how I know!).
if you wanna DIY, you can just replace teh "rivets" with screws, because that is all they are(they need to be removed with a bolt extraction kit). its a security feature, designed to prevent theft (but since its an "old" car, i think you may be okay with simply doing that (new ones from courtesy are pretty cheap, but not as cheap as a trip to the hardware store.)

 

I just did a balance test as CapedCadaver recommended: the RPMs dipped significantly while pulling the wire on the 1,2,3, and 6, and still dipped although not AS noticeably pulling the 4 and 5. Now: Should I test resistance across the injector contacts too or did I pretty much find the same results (I understand they measure two different things, but ultimately the workability of the parts themselves), and if so, where are the contacts? I thought the whole of them were buried under the manifold.

Also, what are the diagnostic problems of a bad torque converter? I'm having trouble finding info.

As far as I know, the ignition coils were new, I think the arm that the injectors work on was replaced too. I cannot state with certainty unfortunately and I can't seem to find the receipt in my files, which are organized but can be confounding since we have three 3rd gen Maximas in my family under the same roof.

Also, the spark plugs are platinum NGK's, I wanted to make sure I was putting the best I could find (at PepBoys in Philly) in there since she's old enough to buy the nice things for, and I figured anything making sparks near lots of flammable stuff should be treated with plenty of respect. I will investigate the ECU later in the day.

I'm driving the 92GXE, which I thought was only assigned the SOHC VG, therefore the stupid Stanza tranny.

 

oh.. somehow i thought you had a 92SE... dunno why. Probably cuz you said coils with an 's'.. since the VG has just one coil (whereas the VE has a coil for each plug, and no distributor). Unless you were calling the spark plug wires 'coils'.

anyhow, go ahead and test the resistance on those. I had a 'slight change' like that on a cylinder and it ended up being out of spec, tho still partially working. but once they start to fail they can't be saved, so you're just gonna have to replace them as soon as you can. And remember, DO NOT buy remans. Contrary to popular belief, reman injectors for 3rd gens are actually hand-"refurbished" by Satan himself, in a small factory in the 7th level of Hell... they are not refurbished in an earth-bound auto parts facility as you've probably been led to believe. Brand New "Python" injectors are manufactured in a separate facility by some high-ranking demons, in the 8th level of Hell, so they're even worse.

 

ok i have a question about my exhaust... i have a 91 ve. im looking to get a full exhaust system, i was thinking the pacesetter catback http://www.pacesetterparts.com/1989-...eel-p-214.html but from there im not sure.
what exhaust header/manifold and y pipe should i get. is there a full setup most people prefer or what. also i need to make sure it will all align. thanks

 

Well I got quoted at anywhere between 100 and 300 dollars (100 being its able to be pulled out, 300 if he has to remove the ignition)

I'll just do it myself...figured if it wasnt in the FSM I was SOL, but i figured I'd ask in case.

Thanks!!

 

91 ve? 92 was the first year the VE was offered, but as all cars are released in like, october, you may have had one of the 1991 production-date VE's but the model year would be 92. if your intake manifold looks like this you have a VG. It matters because the ypipes have different length front pipe depending which engine you actually have.

Anyhow, you're gonna want the Warpspeed ypipe; it's good for about 15HP. There are no headers available that fit; the only ones made are from Pacesetter, and i heard that they hit the power steering rack or something like that. I wouldn't know about that catbacks tho.. i just have a custom-bent 2.5" pipe (2.5" is overkill btw... 2.25" will probably work better) and shortly will be putting a Q45 muffler on to finish off the 2.5" setup.

 

when my friend's key broke off in his ignition, we used snapring pliers to return the ignition to the off position, and there was barely enough material protruding to grab onto but we did pull the key out. Just get creative, trying random crap to get they key out of the hole based on how much protrusion you have to work with, after returning the ignition to Off and pushing the release button. Something is bound to work eventually... try taking a thin-gauge paperclip and adhering it (jbweld, glue, whatever) the tip of the paperclip onto the key (careful not to make contact with the outside of the keyhole) and draw the key out after it sets.

If it doesn't work, you were just gonna switch the ignition anyhow, right? So what do you have to lose?

 

yea i have a 91 chevy and the 92 maxima i just typed fast and didnt think...anyway i have a ve i know my stuff. so you think it would be best to get stock exhaust manifolds, and new bolts then warpspeed y pipe (could i get a link to it) and see if the pacesetter exhaust will fit to that y pipe. also my exhaust is all rusty and holes everywere so thats why.

 

Well you don't need to 'get' stock manifolds unless yours are warped or cracked and in need of replacement. I would just suggest putting new studs in the manifolds since you'll be in there already (and maybe even new exhaust studs in the heads, if you think you can do it with the engine in the car).

You can get the ypipe here http://www.warpspeedperformance.com/nissan.htm (i think. i got mine from another member, but i think that site is still taking orders for the VE pipe). You can actually get a full cat-back from Warpspeed to, according to that page. Looking at it, I think my b-pipe is actually a Warpspeed piece, rather than a custom-bent piece at some exhaust shop as i stated a few posts up (i got that from the same person that i got my ypipe from, so i didn't know who actually made it)

 

i said i need to get stock exhaust manifold because everything is so janky. My exhaust "note" literally changes probably once a month depending on what rusted part i blow out or whatever. and i said stock because i heard they are better. or should i go with pacesetter headers ws y pipe pacesetter catback?

 

well i don't think they made the pacesetter for the VE.. just the VG. Even if they did, people have reported the headers hitting crap under the hood (important stuff) so the risk of messing something up isn't worh it just to have headers. so you would just need to find some VE manifolds at a JY, then take them to a machine shop and have them check for flatness; if they aren't, the machine shop can resurface the flange for you.

Oh and the PS headers don't have the same flange locations as stock, so you HAVE to use the PS ypipe with it if you used PS headers. But you're not gonna do that anyways so the WSP pipe is the way to go.

 

ok i know what im doing now, where can i find exhaust manifolds front and back.

 

i guess from greeny

 

and just so you know the full system you told me about is the ws y pipe with pacesetter catback

 

the same one i was looking at

 

makowski: i replied to your manifold request in my part out thread..

 

lol ok. i didn't pay attention to the words, i was just looking at the pictures

 

alright thanks....but again, has it been come to a group decision by most ve motor owners that stock manifolds are better than any aftermarket manifolds or headers?

 

another question....and new topic. after the manifold question is answered. if i get a 2 inch drop how do i tell clearance with tires. what i wanted to do was get the drop with 17s. is there anyway to determine the right size before or what. also do the 92 maximas have a 5/100 bolt pattern or what?.