look for vacuum leaks. do you hear any odd hissing when you are checking under the hood (engine running)

 

Good advise, I did look for vacuum leaks, I even (gently) sprayed some starting fluid around the areas of clustered vacuum lines while it was running hoping to hear a diff in the idle and got nothing, but I aint giving up yet. Ill check again and change my plugs.

Thanks for the advise

Any thoughts on my post "tranny problems" I posted earlier???

 

i know the bmw headlights are not a direct fit, but are they a good price? im thinking about getting them but not sure if i should

http://fresno.craigslist.org/pts/1088133957.html

here is the pic link

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/j...-OEM-HLs-1.jpg

 

did you replace the PCV valve?

for the tranny problem im confused, is it a standard or automatic, you say its an SE to my knowlege was only manual, but i maybe wrong. i will re read you post and get back to you

Edit:
ok try this page http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...nsmission.html.

this will alow to to run a diagnostic on it if its an Auto

 

Hey guys...ok i am no where engine sauve so bear with me...

i have a 91 GXE and we changed the spark plugs this weekend..my question is..do we need to retime it when we change the plugs? The only reason i ask, is we fired it up and its making a hell of alot of clunking noise...we checked the plugs, put the old ones back in, and still the same noise...

 

No timing should need to be done.
check to make sure you didnt cross any plug wires, and check to see if the wires are arcing to the engine.

 

Im almost positive wires did not get crossed. Can i find the firing order any where? As well we did test the wires for spark, and they all are..So i should have it timed then?

 

how was it running before you changed out the plugs?

you dont have to retime the engine after changing plugs because nothing to control spark timing should have changed, unless the distributor was pulled and not replaced properly or the timing belt was change and not installed right.

autozone.com may have timing order

 

It was running fine before the change...nothing else was removed or moved except the plugs....

 

ok a few things to check,

1) plug gap (.043)
2) check the plug boots for damage.
3) pull of the distributor cap and see how much charring the points have.

the boots IME are a pain to take off w/o problems. ensure the wire wasn't pulled out of the boot.

and finaly recheck the plugs to make sure they are not loose. i dont think you did that and im not calling you dumb but you never know. ive done it

 

with a little bit of cutting and modification they will fit just fine. It's a very common headlight upgrade option among the 3rd genners here.

 

if it's clunking then you may want to pull all the plugs and make sure nothing fell into the cylinder.

 

ok thanks. ill go search the forum for ways to install them. might get them this weekend

 

I'm a little confused about the passcode door lock system. If I open the door with the key it seems that I cannot start the car. Like a computer is preventing the starter to engage.

I don't know if this is normal or a problem with my ignition?

thx

 

Ok, so i got some 06 Maxima rims installed. I still wanna lower my car, but now that I have the rims, I dont think that I can lower it as low as I thought i would be able to. Any suggestions on springs? Im thinking Eibachs, but they are so friggin expensive!!

 

Hello All.

Im planing on buying a 94 maxima from my mothers freind daughter. My mothers machanic is coming to look at the car next week with me. The womans daughter told me the car is leaking oil and needs a tune up , this might not be all it needs until we look at it. She said she would sell it to me for $800 this is where i need some help. would this be a good price? im pretty sure the paint job is most likely faded and scratched up. If there is any other problems i find with this car is it still a good buy or should i try to talk her down lower?

 

Eibachs are one of the best brands. i prefer them for daily driving.

it looks like you wll be pushing it on a drop

 

Yea the ride isnt really wut im gonna be worried about. Because I mean, $250 for Eibachs, and its only 1.2 drop. But B&Gs are 1.6 Drop, and I believe like $160. And B&G is a good brand. And yeah Im getting some smaller tires sometime this week, so it should give me a little more room to drop it. I hope . But thx for the help nonetheless

 

Well I changed the plugs to NGK and checked again for a vacuum leak and I still got this "intermitim" miss. It will run fine then all of a sudden it will run rough for a min then run better. I started out changing out the engine cuz it waz broke, then the tranny was slippin so I changed it out too. I did a complete tune-up and oil/air filter change. What am I missing?

Question #1, If the CPU and wiring harnes are from the car and the engine and tranny are changed is there anything you need to do to make it fit, all of the plugs on the wiring harnes matched up?

Question #2 Would a slight exhast leak from the header cause a intermitin miss?

Dang I think Im loosing my touch for this sh*#t.

help!!!!!!!!!

 

dadsweiser: sounds like you may have a injector going out..

 

I really didnt want to hear that, I thought that myself cause I had that before on my 89 SE, but it was always a miss, not so much hit and miss, and I narrowed it down for sure before I pulled the rail (not just guessing) . It cost me $220 to have one injector replaced (with my own used spare) and the other 5 adjusted. I should go pull my good cleaned rail off of my daughters car (the 89) just to make sure.

Dang Im bummed.......

 

Joo got ripped mang... There is no way to "adjust" maxima injectors..let it ride a little while longer until it's more of a constant miss, then ohm all the injectors..Good injectors should be between 11-14 ohms.

Also, be sure to check for corrosion(green looking crap) on the injector poles/harness plugs. If you find corrosion, grab a can of electrical contact cleaner and a small set of wire brushes to clean the corrosion off..

 

Double dang now Im double bummed, Hills Automotive in Spokane WA said they adjusted 5 of my injectors, WONDER WHAT THEY DID THEN? other then rip me off. Dang dang Dang.... I'll check the conectors to the injectors and hope that helps, I gotta go pass emmissions before I can get tabs so I can't wait till it get worse, pluss it drives me nutts when it dont run right.

dang dang and double dog dang

 

second question, when I checked my power steering fluid today and noticed it was almost empty! So I went to Autozone to buy some Prestone Power Steering Fluid but I found this article http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/702

I already refilled my reservoir with the power steering fluid, is that okay or do or cars require ATF in there?

 

you're screwed.

you should have asked and waited for an answer from us before putting fluid in. you can cycle ATF in place of the PS fluid by moving a few lines around by the reservoir, but be prepared to make a big ol' mess.

 

Hello I have a 92 maxima gxe and i don't know if i should swap the engine to a 3.5 2004 engine or work on my stock engine?????

 

crap! It's only been one day, gonna go get ATF tomorrow immediately and do the turkey baster trick. How much damage can this mixture of ATF and PS fluid do?

Lesson learned, can't go asking Autozone guys anything.

 

not much in a day. but probably a pretty good amount if you can't get the mixture to as-much-ATF-as-possible before too long. you could just unhook the low pressure hose from the side of the PS pump (probably a massive PITA to reach) or something, and just let the whole damn system drain out. cuz the amount of fluid in the reservoir is alot less than the amount in the whole system.

There's a few places where you can open the system and and stick a 20ft piece of heater hose on it to drain it into a bucket.. all while keeping the reservoir full of ATF, and just cycle like a gallon of ATF through; that should displace MOST of the PS fluid. this will work best if you have the car jacked up, engine idling, and turning the wheels lock-to-lock to move the most fluid around.

autozone guys are blithering idiots. i swear to you, we had to spell out the word "flywheel" four times before the idiot got it right. first attempt was "flwehll". i wish they'd just give me the damn keyboard sometimes... i'd be out in half the time.

 

thanks, but I'm very new to this (as you can see from what I did)

I don't know where to locate the low pressure hose from the PS pump; actually I don't even know where the PS pump is...

I'm gonna try my best getting out the fluid in the reservoir and replacing it with ATF, then 2-3 days later, do it again until I can dilute the PS fluid to ATF mixture.

 

the turkeybaster thing will work fine but you just have to do it a crapload of times.

the thick black rubber hose with the metal connector on it that's attached to the passenger side strut tower leads down to the PS pump, behind the engine. all the metal and rubber lines by the PS fluid resevoir are PS hoses.. fluid travels from reservoir, down the big thick low-pressure line between the strut tower and engine, to the pump, to strut tower junction, to steering rack, back up the metal lines under the reservoir, do the cooler loop in front of the radiato, back up to the reservoir.

 

you do realize there would be alot more work than just bolting the engine in, right? you would pretty much need to rewire the ENTIRE car, create new engine mounting points, transmission mounting points, make custom axles...
unless you have a crap load of money to blow, and alot of patience, you would be better off getting your current engine rebuilt. the engines are totally different. it would be similar to putting a Cummins turbo diesel into a honda civic.... possible, but is it really worth the effort? (im gonna have to say, for most people, probably not...)
(if you want an idea of what it takes, let this guy finish, and see the steps he has taken http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...ss-thread.html)

 

1.6+ is way too much of a drop, according to many members who had low rides, here. Greeny himself (as well as others) said the ride was too for a daily driver.
it also messes with the suspension geometry, making cornering evil, for cornering and other swerving maneuvers.
if you still wanna deal with all that, it looks like your ride will take it alright. how much clearance is there inside the rear wells? if you dropped it that far, would it hit? how about the front? you can always have a shop roll your fenders for added clearance.

 

how to get my door panel off of the front doors so i can get to the speakers?

 

http://www.4dsc.com/articles/interio...or_panel.shtml


Pics---> http://www.4dsc.com/articles/interio...lator_cb.shtml

 

im assuming you are going for the look. your alignment will be hell on that much drop, you will burn tires off before you know it. B&G are good but sometimes it worth the few extra bucks, but i know where you are coming from. but i think with the wheels you have, they will still be pushing it on that much of a drop.

 

thank you so so much for the help; I went to the auto store today but couldn't find any DEX III ATF. Only DEX VI, fully synthetic and some weird DEX III/MER thing.

I learned my lesson to ask here before putting any fluid into the car. I took some pics for references.

 

Get the dextron III/ Mercon stuff..

 

wutsup...im lookin to buy a 02 max se 6speed wid 50k on the clock( a lil upgrade from my specv) ....know i heard the max;s with lsd are better....so how do u kno which max;s have lsd? or do all the 02-03 6 speed comes with them?

 

Check this out----> http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...a-2000-2003-7/

 

Wolf Head seems shady, their motor oil sells for $2.50 so cheap?
Is Dex/Mer okay to be used for my power steering, I don't want to do more damage than what I have already did.