Omg! hahaha!!

dude, may i ask why this took an hour and a half?

 

it was after beer-thirty when he started, so he had to stop every ten minutes, and get a new beer (which took eight minutes to drink before going back to work for two minutes). then, after he got it off, he realized he was out of beer, so he hustled to get the alty back on, so he could have his wife/gf/neighbor run him to the store for more.

 

Can we set 'auto lock' on our cars? I don't like to manually lock the car every time I get in. I just feel unsafe driving around knowing all 4 of my doors are unlocked.

 

no you can't and then I suggest you move to a safer locale. I disable those stupid auto locks on every car I drive (rental, or own).

 

I have been trying to figure this out for awhile and I would really appreciate any advice. My car alarm went off for a very long time one day and after that my dash lights, taillights and corner lights woudn't work. They will only work if I turn my turn signal on. Iv already checked bulbs and fuses.
Thank you so much!

 

Umh, because it was the middle of december, about 5 degrees outside (prolly below 0 wind-chill), and ive never worked on a Maxipad before... Maybe one day i can have 132374697412420916412879346187469318 miles like yours did

 

yeah, true that. theres not much pre-assembled mods for 3rd gen maximas like there is for honda civics and stuff like that

 

Ok so I passed emissions on my 1990 GXE, while I did change my plugs per Benstoked it seems that the underlining reason for the fail was loose connectors to my injectors. So that means that Greeny gets the award for figuring out my problem as he suggested that I had an injector problem. So Greeny you win the prize, what is the prize you ask? It is a set of 6 Bosh double platinum plugs. IDK maybe you can use them for fishing sinkers or something because I wouldn’t suggest putting them in your VG30 engine. So to clame your prize you must send me $14.93 for S&H, which I might add that I paid $14.95 for them to began with so really you would be out $0.02 which you offered to me for free in the first place so yea let me know what you want to do. But yea thanks to all who helped by scratching your heads for me. Now moving on to the other black 1990 SE, wish me luck.

 

heh, no thanks, i'll pass on the bosch crapola.. glad you got her running nice now..

 

how many post do you need to have to be able to start a thread or post somewhere else besides here? im not a post wh**e but i would like to start a wanted to buy lowering springs thread.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/faq.php#nothread

 

I got a question about my windowns... All of them are able to down from the drivers door but the only one that goes up from that door is the drivers door Ihave to reach over and up the others and reach back to up the one behind me whys is this?

 

thanks man, at least i have a number now lol. i was hoping it wasnt like 100 or someting

 

your swith on the drivers door is prob bad, take it out and check the connections and contacts, if its not cleanable then replace it

 

For those of you on Eibach springs, do you guys need a camber kit or no? And also what rim and tire combo did you guys use to pull of the look of a smaller wheel gap, well besides the stock rims, thanks.

 

i have a 92 gxe with almost 230,000 mi on it. today my car stopped shifting. it wont shift out of first gear and drops into neutral if i go over 2500 rpm. i can rev the engine up over 4 rpm and get it to **** while its in the next gear range, but once it gets up to speed, it drops right back to neutral. what the F$%^ is wrong with my transmission?

i checked the fluid, its light brown but full.
a mechanic told me the throttle position sensor might be the problem, but all i hear is $$$

can anybody help? is this a common maxima problem like the window regulators? or have i just destroyed my tranny?

 

Your trans is toast dude, but no worries about you doing any damage to it, it's usually the first major thing to fail on the gxe's..

 

ok so what options do i have to keep my car on the road? new transmission? rebuild?

 

• rebuilt tranny (will last a while if you take care of the fluid changes regularly, but $$$$$)
• a 5spd swap (if you can find a parts donor, and enjoy driving stick, bout 20% the price of a rebuilt auto)
• JY automatic (high risk of failure but cheap)

when my a/t died, i did a 5spd swap. minus my still-endless battle with motormounts (because i'm not willing to pay money for new ones.. i keep trying to 'improve' my bad ones), it's the best mod i ever did.

 

the 5spd swap would probably be my best bet. I love the luxury style of the GXE but I cant help but get on the throttle and I feel like the auto has been holding me back for a while. A manual on my car sounds like a good mixture of performance and luxury.

by parts donor, do you mean an SE to take parts from?
how much did your swap cost?
how long did it take? I deliver for pizza hut so time is of the essence.
would you recommend a 5spd from a junk yard?

any and all details will make this a much more painless process
also, I'm attending college right now for automotive technology and just happen to be in a transmission class for the next 5 weeks. Would it be a good idea to try and fix my transmission or do the swap on my own? Or should I take the safe way and take it to a professional until I have more experience?

 

on my car it took me 12 days working a few hours a day. that was in feb of 08. 2 weeks ago on nc90gxe's car, working about 4-5 hrs a day, it took me 4 days. part of that was the fact that we didn't get a flywheel until the 3rd day.. we could have finished in 3 if not for that.

mine cost $350 for a fully functional driveable parts car, $30 for fluid, $20 for axle seals, and $10 for a hole saw for the clutch master cylinder. car was driveable at this point. drove it daily just like this for 3 months, but the pressure in my clutch line kept building and building until the pedal was uber-stiff and the clutch would slip. i have no idea what actually caused this.

afterward i had to buy a new clutch master cylinder due to a leak ($40) a new clutch kit $175, a new flywheel $60, a new clutch line $20, a new fork boot $5, a new reverse/neutral position sensor $25, and a slave cylinder rebuilt kit $10. much of this was preemptive repair, because i just wanted to have new parts. I didn't have a job when i first did the swap, so i installed the 'afterward' stuff 3 months later after i got a job. of course, the clutch slippage issue was resolved after all the clutch-related parts i replaced.

if you have to source stuff individually, you can probably get all the parts/tranny you need at a junkyard for $300ish. save the receipt in case you have a bad bearing in the tranny or leaky hydraylics, etc. i can provide a detailed list with some pics if you need it. there's a few parsts you wouldn't think to grab that you actually do need. you do not NEED a manual ECU, but it does help with idle return and such. i am still using an automatic ECU.

fwiw the most challenging task i'd ever done on a car prior to doing my 5spd swap was putting new brake pads on my friend's car. i jumped in, got my hands dirty, learned what not to do next time, and had fun.

 

can anyone help me with some ideas for removing the old tint on my car? its all fading and getting purple. i have heard of using a razor but i dont wanna scratch my windows

*pics*


*not a blurry pic, thats how the tint looks inside the car*


the previous owner had a sticker and i burned on the image over time



any help would be well thanked

*hahaha i just noticed that my dads car dosent have a driver mirror*

 

Have it removed by a professional tint shop....you will only make it worse by trying to remove it yourself..

 

the rear window's defroster elements are especially easy to screw up with a razor

 

to remove it i heard that it was about 20 a window, is that a fair price?

if it is imma go look for a shop to remove it

 

It depends on your location, tint shop prices vary so much from place to place, we really cant say what your local prices would be..

 

i see

thanks alot for the advice greeny and caped cadaver

 

i have a 2000 maxima se automatic with 67000 miles whenever i drive the car hard or if i drive it for a long time or even highway its starts to buck when i stop and im on the breaks if i drive it slow and easy it works fine. can my O2 sensor cause that to happen...it feel like sumthing is mis firein but my car is practally brand new and i newer beat on it neither have i messed wit the engine...can someone please tell me whats wrong with my car?????

 

try the 5th gen section, it has a n00b thread as well

 

thank you cadaver, that definitely helps me out a lot and i know i can afford $300. i probably will need a parts list just in case because im in the same boat you were. ive never worked on cars prior to this year and all ive done so far is brake jobs and suspension r&r. im reaaallly hesitant about doing this myself but im going to school for it so i might as well get the experience.

would you recommend getting a donor that doesnt run, as it would be cheaper? or would that be more of a risk to get degraded parts?

 

Problem #1 .... The car alarm on car goes off for no reason at various times, usually after 2 am when im sound asleep ... and sometimes during the day ... when i punch in the code or insert the key in either door it goes off ... but if i do nothing (as when im asleep) it does a cycle of continually sounding on for a set # of minutes and being quiet for a set # of minutes as my neighbor recited to me ..... so fearing my battery being drained and being neighborly ... i just disconnect my battery at night and reconnect when i wanna drive. It does this on and off cycle sometimes when i have it parked and locked during the day. Also the security light in the dash used to blink, it doesnt any more .... Its strange because i can shake the entire car from the outside, pull on the door handles and the alarm will not go off ... any suggestions? I checked and replaced the antitheft fuse and it appears good and then I removed the antitheft fuse and I can still unlock and start the car. So I will keep the battery connected to see what happens...

 

noob question...i just replaced another regulator on my driver side rear window and for some reason this one wont line up it looks fine i spent over an hour trying to adjust it lil by lil and nothing worked the window goes all the way to about 2 inches from the top i can push it closed and it will stay but i cant figure out whats wrong?

 

I checked my ATF today. The fluid was barely touching the dipstick. A few weeks ago I took it to a shop that just opened up to get my axle put in, had some valvoline max life for him to put in there, but he said he couldn't because mixing fluids (conventional/synthetic) was bad. So I'm wondering if I have a big leak or he just didn't refill it after draining via axle hole.

I notice a drop of ATF stuck right below the drain plug, and another where the two halves of the transmission are bolted together after driving the car.

Any idea if this would cause enough to leak out in less than a month to be at that level on the dipstick? Tips/suggestions?

Thanks

 

I was wondering if anyone thinks its dumb/useless to tune/trick-out a 3rd Gen Maxima with an automatic transmission. Also if anyone has done this please send pictures. It may be a dumb question but its worth asking.

 

first, define "trick out" or "tune" if they are simply physical mods, then sure, why not...
if you are after power...
if you have a vg (sohc) engine, your automatic has a tendency to fail, and power adding quickens the time it takes to fail.
if you have a ve (dohc) engine, you have much better luck at getting the power you added to the road a couple of years from now.

Sticks may be funner, but autos can be fun, too.

 

I've been reading around about the Maximas for awhile since i'm picking up a '94 SE (auto) tomorrow. I'm kinda confused though, because I see some people saying VE30 and then others saying VE30de.

Is there a difference? Or are they all de's?

Thanks in advance.

 

When I say tune/trick-out (was trying to put in Layman's Terms)
I mean modify in ways that will increase performance or the aesthetics of the car.
Since my 89' Nissan Maxima has an automatic transmission and the SOHC engine, I would like some suggestions on exactly what performance options I have. Please state any cheap ways to gain an extra 10hp or expensive ways to gain even more.

 

Weeeelllllllll....
I recommend doing a 5 speed swap, if you get any real power.
after that, other mods to consider:
warpspeed y-pipe
Custom, mandrel bent Cat-back exhaust.
fidanza flywheel
UDP (Under Drive Pulley)

Horsepower is not cheap, and many of those are the "cheap" 10hp mods.

 

when you see "VE" "ve30" and "ve30de", they are all the same name, just shortened (if you counted every time someone shortened the engine code down to the first two letters, you would be supprised how much time was saved).
also when you see "VG" "VG30" and VG30E, they are the other motor, but still the same name.
since we (in the third gen section, anyway) know the engines we had available are the "vg30e" and the "ve30de", we just drop the "30e" and "30de", respectively.

 

Cold Air Intake or POP charger filter, Warpspeed Y Pipe, High Flow Cat, Greddy SP2 Exhaust, ASP Under Pulley, FSTB, RSTB, Poly Bushings, Sway bars, BBK, Drum to disc rear brake swap, lowering springs, Tokico/Koni struts, Camber kits, HID headlight retrofits, smoked corners, turbo and twin turbo setups.

Just a small overview of what can be done with your car.