I can't watch the video (at work, atm), but I have heard vtc clack youtube vids a number of times. some are more subtle than others, depending on how severe the need of a vtc rebuild is.

 

ground 'em anyways. if it shuts up, it was VTC clack. if it doesn't shut up, it was not VTC clack and you can then proceed to other possibilities (and unground them again if you want)

 

I have read around here and understand that the JDM variant of the VE is the same. I discovered that it was cheaper to go this route and they just happened to offer JDM only. I've rebuilt engines before so rebuilding wouldn't be an issue, just lacking time. The only engines around my location are about $200 more since I don't want to give them my engine as a core. I think i'll check this websites warranty information and go from there.

 

Does anyone know the stock diameter of our exhaust pipes? Thanks

 

i was told 2.5"

 

^ def not 2.5" it's between 2 and 2.25"

 

yeah my bad, the 2 on my keyboard is F'd. i meant 2.25"

 

I just replaced my catalytic converter on my 94 maxima and the guy at the shop said the muffler didnt need replacing now but it will as there seemed to be a rusty spot on the side .. is there some kind of patch or gel i can put over the rusty area to retard the rusting in that spot?

 

I remember about hearing of some spray that you put directly on rust so it covers it and stops it. however your muffler may last a while, before i swapped my 92's stock muffler for a cherry bomb it had a huge chunk of the muffler rusted and hanging around and it still sounded fine.

 

Can some of you guys go comment on this Thread It would be helpful.... but this was the next question i had to ask because i had this same problem...thanks in advance.

 

ok i will check autozone and others online to see if they have a spray to repair rust on your mufflers

 

94 maximma gxe 6 cycl .....My Next Problem ...

Before I replaced my spark plugs, wires and rotor ... the car after 3 months driving had a definite vibration while ideling or stopped at a traffic light and the check engine light would come on and after awhile go off .. After changing all of the above .... the vibration over time has subsided alot but is still there .... and the check engine comes on ...... When i first got the car about 6 months ago ... it drove like new (the engine) but I didnt know the radiator had a hole in it and it also had a leak in a radiator hole ... I didnt drive the car every day or far maybe 10 to 20 miles at a time with a rest stop in between .... some of these times i would see steam or white smoke which i assumed from the leak in radiator hose also it was winter time ..... i know know this was because of the radiator having a leak .... I did the stop leak and constant putting in water and antifreeze before getting the hose and then the radiator replaced ... the temp coolant gaguge in the car never worked after the previous owner got the water pump replaced ..... The car did overheat and stopped on me once ... Reading now .... it had all the classic signs and sounds of overheating but I never had a car overheat on me before so until it stopped I kept driving ...... but it would start right back up, but when i put it in gear ... the car made sounds that i knew i shouldnt drive it ...But after cooling off and putting in water, antifreeze .. it drove fine ....When i first started driving the car the engine was soooo quiet i would think the car had shut off when i stopped at a stop sign .... but After 3 months time ...I always bought premimum gas but did switch to regular when prices went sky high ..... the check engine light comes on and inside the car I can hear a noticable deep echo-like thumping and/or putt putt sound (if you cover both ears with the palm of your hand and say putt putt continuously in a deep voice .. thats kinda how it sounds) BUT when i step out of the car I dont hear the sound although i can hear a miss out of the muffler and sometimes a soft clicking-like sound from the engine area ..... and i got my converter replaced thinking this was the cause of the sound i hear inside the car ..... when the check engine light goes off the sound i hear inside the car subsides too .... could this be the cause of the vibration due to me driving the car with the radiator leak? I dont know how to check the injectors but i have used plenty of b12, heet and injector cleaners over time .... but what is this seafoam and how to use it and get it? What do yall think is going on here?

 

Ok well i'm been searching and can't find this one guy. He did the retrofit on the euro headlight thats for our 3rd gen (ebay headlight). i remember seeing Z horns on the back of the grill and the car was white.

Anyone see this forum?

Jason

 

http://forums.maxima.org/members/pest2001.html

 

but really it would be best to just get a new muffler, a cherry bomb turbo is only $30. remember, rust on exhausts usually starts from the inside out

 

isn't a cherry bomb gonna sound a bit tho? a 'normal' muffler should be fine. perhaps a stock 5th gen muffler, i've seen that suggest made on here before.

 

K i'm a noob at HID's and projectors so here goes:
Can i run HB5 HID bulbs(9007 equivalent for HID's) since i have done the 9007 mod, or will that fry the harness etc.

Or Do i have to run HB1 HID Bulbs(9004 equivalent for HID's)? also, will any size HID bulb fit inside most projecters or are they not universal.
thanks guys!

 

scientists recently confirmed that putting HID bulbs in any housing that is NOT designed for HIDs is in fact WORSE than sacrificing your family members in a satanic ritual. So don't do it.

As for actually doing it the right way, most projectors use D2S HID bulbs. So get some BMW X5 or Inf FX35 or TL or LS430 projectors, etc, and retro them in using the D2S bulbs (and ballasts) that came on the car you got them from. Usually like wrecked cars or something that they pull the headlights off of.

 

yea i know this, i've read the other threads, i'm just unsure if what i want to do is retrofit HID projectors into my euro's or just get HID foglights and call it a day... with the hopes of eventually doing both?

thanks for the speedy reply

 

HID foglights are no better if they aren't in projector form. and in reality 3000k foglights are what you want, because the yellow will actually cut through fog. true foglights aren't meant to be used constantly... only when there's actual fog. cuz the yellow color is kindof annoying to oncoming traffic when you're just driving around town in clear conditions. you can get some normal-white driving lights to go alongside the true fogs just beware that it *might* look a bit ghey having "2 sets of foglights" but it's something i'm considering eventually doing on my own car.

 

yea they're projector fog lights i'm looking at, my main questions are still about which HID bulbs can be used in which projector housings, and if i need to run HB1 or HB5's b/c of a risk of frying electrical components.

 

real HID bulbs operate at lower wattage than halogens do. but at start-up they do require more current. HID headlights are 35W. 9004s are 45/65 and 9007s are 55/65. don't HID fogs come with the bulbs already? I haven't ever bothered looking at fog housings tbh, i just know how the pieces work.

 

thanks with the suggestion about the muffler .. im looking around for another maxima like mine to take parts off of it rather than giving all my money to a parts place.....

 

some places can be reasonable though, a place here charged me $220 to order in a Magnaflow glasspack and weld it on my 92 and the Magnaflow alone was a little over $200

 

At this point im just trying to get the car to run sound with everything working as they should .. the only thing i would customize later is the radio system that im having a problem with ......

The radio will work but the led display doesnt show and the back speakers do not play .. the cassette player and the radio will tune stations but there is no display .... On the face plate it says FM Diversity and the speakers from the backseat says Active but under the trunk it says Clarion on the speaker and the Amp? What type of system is this? The size of the radio takes up half the area and has the the little try that is a compartment with the cup holder ... I have a JVC radio model ks-rt30 but dont know if it is plug n play with nissan without getting a wiring harness ... I just want the radio to play thru all speakers and for the dsiplay to work without tearing up my wiring.... what do i need to do to change radios and have all the speakers work?

 

^ cant help much since i got all of my audio redone when i got my 92 but the guy that had me left the audio stock and the back speakers did have Active on them

 

im guessing the back speakers are Active ..thats what written on the speaker grill on the inside of the car but on the speaker magnets, etc inside the trunk they both say Clarion .... does anyone know of a guide for this model nissan car that says and shows in pictures if you have a jvc radio and the wires to connect it looks like this (show a picture) then do this .... if your wires look like this (show a picture) then do this ...or if you have a sony head unit and your wires...etc .... Does anyone know of a book that shows good illustrations on how to install stereo systems in cars with step by step photos and not just electrical diagrams???? Im a noobie on this subject but really want to master it without shorting out my electrical system in the car.

 

get a sosche (sp?) kit for Nissan. has all the wiring to attach your new head unit's wires, with pretty good instructions. there is no reason to hack your cars wiring when they make a $10 part that you can do all the work outside of the car(IE. at the comfort of a workbench). it is such a pita to trace wires, and tape them up while contorting your body into weird positions while in the car.

 

My blinkers don't work in my 91 maxima and I've been looking for the flasher relay or flashing unit if there is one. The FSM shows it's right next to the cruise control, others say that it's mounted on the steering column. I can't seem to find it anywhere in the drivers side. I took a photo of the area, could someone point it out?

 

Do your hazards work?
if no check hazard switch, if yes then good luck I never had to replace my flasher, but I have had to reconnect my hazard

 

the black box with the gray plug. the blinker unit is different depending on year, so the older ones (i guess 89-91) have a different blinker box than the 92+ do. So the FSM isn't going to properly show how your blinkers are wired.

this is the schematic for older 3rd gens

 

hello!

i have a JDM J30 Maxima with the Bose stereo. The front speakers are the stock Bose and i've put it a new JVC headunit (when i bought the car it didnt have the original Bose headunit) and someone has replaced the rear Bose 6x9's with some cheap 6.5 speakers. They've bypassed the amps already so it'll be fairly straightford to replace them.

Anyway so my question is, there are 4 long screw/bolts that come out of the speaker bracket that i presume the stock 6x9's were bolted onto? i dont have the nuts for these, so should i just drill some holes into the bracket and screw the new speakers on from underneath? or try and find some nuts that fit these bolts? i'm guessing i can replace these speakers without having to remove the bracket which looks as though i'd have to take out the rear deck?

thanks!

 

nevermind, all sorted! i picked up a set 4-way JVC 6x9's and they had screws/nuts etc with them and the nuts fit the existing screws and everything slot into place real easy and i'm very happy! sounds so much better it's ridiculous

 

Glad you had success replacing your speakers .. wish me similar luck with mine .. once i get a wiring harness hopefully i can tell if the speakers are blown ..... they look brand new but no sound .. could the amps to the rear speaker be dead or both speakers and amp?? Have they invented wireless speakers for cars yet????
ALSo I asked before is FM Diversity a factory head unit from Nissan circa 1994??? My speakers in trunk say Clarion but the grill on the back seat say Active .. is Clarion and Active the same???

 

yes, clarion=active.

blown speakers will crackle, unless somebody pushed so much more power than the speakers can handle, that it disintegrated the voice coil. just because the speakers look new doesn't mean they aren't original.

 

This is my current audio system - FM Diversity - No LED display and no sound from back speakers. everything on radio works except no display, sound from front speakers only.......




Here is the radio I want to replace it with .......





I have not taken my old head unit out so I dont know what the connections looks like inside ...

Question #1 Will i need a wiring harness to connect this radio....

Question #2 What to do if the back speakers do not work?

Question # 3 What to do if none of the speakers work afterwards?

 

Does anybody have a good used set of Coil Packs?

 

That thing is the combo flash unit?



The FSM seems to say it's the door lock timer and that the flasher unit should be next to it. My hazards don't work. Does the button just pop out? My blinkers do come on when I use the turn signal lever, they just don't blink.

 

yea, they just changed the style of it to a 3-wire type instead of the 7-wire type.

 

so to answer your questions:
1)YES!
2) bypass amps, and install new speakers
3) see above