5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread

Old Feb 26, 2008 | 10:14 PM
  #5161  
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Originally Posted by exp626
well put...but...i dont know anyone except my mechanic buddies..and they all like American muscle...i need more of"you will need the tranny out of a 3.5sl" or "the engine mounts aren't the same so your ****ed or get a welder"
You need the engine, transmission, wiring harness, ecu, tcm, engine mounts, possibly the radiator (if the 4 cylinder one is smaller), shop manuals for your Altima and the donor car you get the engine out of, and probably a good 2-3 weeks do to the swap and sort out all the problems that come along with that type of swap. Like the others have said, you really need to work with someone who had done a swap like this to get it done right.
Old Feb 26, 2008 | 10:18 PM
  #5162  
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well i guess i'll begin my search and what is a TCM?
Old Feb 26, 2008 | 11:18 PM
  #5163  
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transmission control module
Old Feb 26, 2008 | 11:22 PM
  #5164  
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can anyone price this stuff out for me
Old Feb 27, 2008 | 06:14 AM
  #5165  
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Originally Posted by exp626
can anyone price this stuff out for me
Dude, are you serious, do some leg work.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....105&highlight=
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....683&highlight=
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....076&highlight=
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....755&highlight=

Last edited by NmexMAX; Feb 27, 2008 at 06:20 AM.
Old Feb 27, 2008 | 07:24 AM
  #5166  
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Shame on you for spoon feeding him!
Old Feb 27, 2008 | 09:02 AM
  #5167  
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Originally Posted by alicious
Shame on you for spoon feeding him!

oh c'mon... half the links dont work even with the show to old thread trick... and trying to find something in this thread takes forever... its nice to get a little help once in a while...

D.
Old Feb 27, 2008 | 10:17 AM
  #5168  
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Originally Posted by SunDown13X
oh c'mon... half the links dont work even with the show to old thread trick... and trying to find something in this thread takes forever... its nice to get a little help once in a while...

D.
Thanks for the support sundown..and scottwax for trying to help me
Old Feb 27, 2008 | 11:50 AM
  #5169  
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I have found a few threads that discuss coil problems, but not sure that i have seen an up to date one that is for 5 gen noobs. Here is my problem - a simple one - I need to replace all 6 coils. First question - wher shoudl I loko for the best price. Second - is this a project that someone withought mechanical experience can do? If so, were could I find instructions? Thank you.
Old Feb 27, 2008 | 11:54 AM
  #5170  
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Originally Posted by twoblacklions
I have found a few threads that discuss coil problems, but not sure that i have seen an up to date one that is for 5 gen noobs. Here is my problem - a simple one - I need to replace all 6 coils. First question - wher shoudl I loko for the best price. Second - is this a project that someone withought mechanical experience can do? If so, were could I find instructions? Thank you.
also, what about taking coils from a junkyard? is that doable?

Last edited by twoblacklions; Feb 27, 2008 at 11:59 AM.
Old Feb 27, 2008 | 12:02 PM
  #5171  
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Originally Posted by exp626
Thanks for the support sundown..and scottwax for trying to help me
My links actually work, so until you click them stop your
Old Feb 27, 2008 | 04:57 PM
  #5172  
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Originally Posted by twoblacklions
I have found a few threads that discuss coil problems, but not sure that i have seen an up to date one that is for 5 gen noobs. Here is my problem - a simple one - I need to replace all 6 coils. First question - wher shoudl I loko for the best price. Second - is this a project that someone withought mechanical experience can do? If so, were could I find instructions? Thank you.
Call Dave B. His number is in the stickies.

If you know how to follow instructions on how to change spark plugs, then you will be able to change the COPs (coil over plug).

Search for a how to on changing spark plugs.

Note: The front and rear coils are different. Order three of each.
Old Feb 27, 2008 | 05:51 PM
  #5173  
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If anyone has been regularly reading this thread then you would know my story....well the newest thing to add to it is that this morning on my way to work the SES light was on like it has been for the past week and a half but when i went to go get lunch i turned the car on and the light didnt come on and it hasnt come back on. why would it just go off like that? last time the light was on the code was P0420 and they just cleared it but it came back on like 500 miles later and now it just went off by itself. and would the egg smell i get sometimes have anything to do with that code? i get a really bad egg smell sometimes when i come to stop after highway driving, not really so much around town tho. thanks!
Old Feb 27, 2008 | 06:05 PM
  #5174  
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you had a bad cat
Old Feb 27, 2008 | 08:16 PM
  #5175  
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Originally Posted by soonerfan
you had a bad cat
Yep. P0420 and rotten egg stench = bad cat
Old Feb 28, 2008 | 06:22 AM
  #5176  
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Which is commonly caused by a bad MAF &/or failing coils.
Old Feb 28, 2008 | 07:28 AM
  #5177  
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Which is commonly caused by a bad MAF &/or failing coils.
or in my case....burning oil that is ruining the cat.
Old Feb 28, 2008 | 07:30 AM
  #5178  
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Originally Posted by soonerfan
or in my case....burning oil that is ruining the cat.
Not in a DEK, as in the posters question. But yes, in your case. My car lets some smoke out the rear tailpipe when getting on it on the highway. I'm guessing my plugs need to be changed. No low oil signs yet. 99.7k.
Old Feb 28, 2008 | 02:37 PM
  #5179  
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Which is commonly caused by a bad MAF &/or failing coils.

the coils were replaced a week after i bought the car but Nissan said they wont cover the cat seeing as though the bad coils burned out the cat. my car has 73k on it. But now the the SES light isnt on anymore i bet they will tell me theres nothing wrong......grrr Will the computer store the info for why the light was on even tho the light went off on its own?
Old Feb 28, 2008 | 02:52 PM
  #5180  
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If I drop my car on coils but keep the stock struts, chances are theyll blow the struts, but will the blown struts affect the cars handling or will they just lessen the stiff feeling of the springs??
Old Feb 28, 2008 | 05:33 PM
  #5181  
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Originally Posted by jbrooks870
If I drop my car on coils but keep the stock struts, chances are theyll blow the struts, but will the blown struts affect the cars handling or will they just lessen the stiff feeling of the springs??
you will bounce like a pogo stick.
Old Feb 28, 2008 | 08:11 PM
  #5182  
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Originally Posted by 00MaximaGLEgrl
the coils were replaced a week after i bought the car but Nissan said they wont cover the cat seeing as though the bad coils burned out the cat. my car has 73k on it. But now the the SES light isnt on anymore i bet they will tell me theres nothing wrong......grrr Will the computer store the info for why the light was on even tho the light went off on its own?
wrong. FEDERAL Emissions laws require that all cars be covered for major emissions components for 8 years/80,000 miles - both of which your car qualifies under it seems:

---------------------------------------------------------------
EPA Environmental Fact Sheet
---------------------------------------------------------------------

EMISSIONS WARRANTIES
FOR 1995 AND NEWER CARS & TRUCKS


Federally required emission control warranties protect you, the
vehicle owner, from the cost of repairs for certain emission related
failures that result from manufacturer defects in materials and
workmanship or that cause your vehicle to exceed federal emission
standards. Manufacturers have been required by federal law to provide
emission control coverage for vehicles since 1972. There are two
federal emission control warranties discussed in this fact sheet: (A)
"Performance Warranty" and (B) "Design and Defect Warranty". This
fact sheet explains each warranty in detail, provides you with a list
of some of the parts covered under these warranties, explains the
procedures for making an emissions warranty claim, and answers some of
the most commonly asked questions about emissions warranties.
Finally, we will give you some tips on how to prevent future
emission-related failures and maintain the longevity of your vehicle's
engine.

A. PERFORMANCE WARRANTY

The Performance Warranty covers repairs which are required during
the first 2 years or 24,000 miles of vehicle use because the vehicle
failed an emission test. Specified major emission control components
are covered for the first 8 years or 80,000 miles. If you are a
resident of an area with an Inspection and Maintenance (I/M) program
that meets federal guidelines, you are eligible for this warranty
protection provided that:

* Your car or light-duty truck fails an approved emissions test;
and

* Your vehicle is less than 2 years old and has less than 24,000
miles (up to 8 years/80,000 miles for certain components); and

* Your state or local government requires that you repair the
vehicle; and

* The test failure does not result from misuse of the vehicle or a
failure to follow the manufacturers' written maintenance
instructions; and

* You present the vehicle to a warranty-authorized manufacturer
representative, along with evidence of the emission test failure,
during the warranty period.

During the first 2 years/24,000 miles, the Performance Warranty
covers any repair or adjustment which is necessary to make your
vehicle pass an approved, locally-required emission test and as long
as your vehicle has not exceeded the warranty time or mileage
limitations and has been properly maintained according to the
manufacturer's specifications.


B. DESIGN AND DEFECT WARRANTY

The Design and Defect Warranty covers repair of emission related
parts which become defective during the warranty period. The Design
and Defect warranty for model year 1995 and newer light-duty cars and
trucks is outlined below:

Design and Defect Warranty Coverage for 1995 and newer light-duty
vehicles:

* Emission control and emission related parts are covered for the
first 2 years or 24,000 miles of vehicle use; and

* Specified major emission control components are covered for the
first 8 years or 80,000 miles of vehicle use.


According to federal law, an emission control or emission related
part, or a specified major emission control component, that fails
because of a defect in materials or workmanship, must be repaired or
replaced by the vehicle manufacturer free of charge as long as the
vehicle has not exceeded the warranty time or mileage limitations for
the failed part.

Design and Defect Warranty coverage may vary depending on the
type of vehicle you have (e.g., heavy-duty trucks, motorcycles or
recreational vehicles have different time and mileage requirements).
To determine the length of warranty coverage that applies to your
vehicle, look for the emissions warranty information in your owner's
manual or warranty booklet. If you own a California vehicle, you may
be entitled to additional warranty coverage.

The owner's manual or warranty booklet will also provide you with
guidance on the procedures for obtaining warranty coverage. If you
have questions about the emissions warranties on your vehicle or need
help in filing a warranty claim, contact your local car dealer or the
manufacturer's zone or regional representative listed in your owner's
manual or warranty booklet.

What Emission Control and Emission Related Parts Are Covered by The
Design and Defect Warranty?

An emission control part is any part installed with the primary
purpose of controlling emissions. An emission related part is any
part that has an effect on emissions. Listed below are some examples
of parts or systems which fall under these definitions. A more
complete list can be found in your owner's manual/warranty booklet.
If any of the parts listed below fail to function or function
improperly because of a defect in materials or workmanship, causing
your vehicle to exceed federal emission standards, they should be
repaired or replaced under the emissions warranty if your vehicle is
less than 2 years old and has been driven less than 24,000 miles. One
manufacturer may use more parts than another, so the following list is
not complete for all vehicles.


EMISSION CONTROL PARTS

Exhaust Gas Conversion Systems

oxygen sensor thermal reactor
catalytic converter dual-walled exhaust pipe
I would double-check with an EPA representative, but it appears you have a case. The dealer cannot PROVE that bad coils caused the problem (Moss-Magnussun Act addresses that), and by that definition, it qualifies as a defect in materials, by my reading.

If not, just get an aftermarket Cat - much cheaper than OEM.
Old Feb 28, 2008 | 08:59 PM
  #5183  
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If I'm "hypothetically" too poor to afford all 4 new tires, but want to go a couple inches wider in the front, can the staggeredness (made-up word?) be offset by spacers, etc?

I know it's retarded, but tires obviously aren't cheap and my fronts look like slicks lol.
Old Feb 29, 2008 | 06:47 AM
  #5184  
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Originally Posted by Child_uv_KoRn
If I'm "hypothetically" too poor to afford all 4 new tires, but want to go a couple inches wider in the front, can the staggeredness (made-up word?) be offset by spacers, etc?

I know it's retarded, but tires obviously aren't cheap and my fronts look like slicks lol.
You want to add spacers to the rear if you get wider tires in teh front? Strange thought, IMO, I would say get stickier tires before you get wider ones.

And spacers should only be used when the actual wheel(s) is/are wider, not just when the tire is.
Old Feb 29, 2008 | 06:52 AM
  #5185  
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I am wondering... I am running 2 sets of hid's 2 inthe fogs and my 2 headlights plus 2 12's with a 800 watt amp. i was thinking of an optima battery any thoughts on that?
Old Feb 29, 2008 | 07:12 AM
  #5186  
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Originally Posted by El_PrOfE
I am wondering... I am running 2 sets of hid's 2 inthe fogs and my 2 headlights plus 2 12's with a 800 watt amp. i was thinking of an optima battery any thoughts on that?
Not sure why you would ask that, considering the fact that HID's actually require LESS energy than halogens.
Old Feb 29, 2008 | 08:38 AM
  #5187  
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Not sure why you would ask that, considering the fact that HID's actually require LESS energy than halogens.
wow, I did not know that. Thanks. ...
Old Feb 29, 2008 | 01:36 PM
  #5188  
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Not new here but haven't posted much...! My son needs a complete engine wire harness(03 Max) from the computer out to the complete engine bay. If anyone has one or can point me in a direction, please post or email me: sandy.cowan (at) bell.ca located in Ontario, Canada
thanks, Sandy
Old Feb 29, 2008 | 03:50 PM
  #5189  
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Originally Posted by cowans
Not new here but haven't posted much...! My son needs a complete engine wire harness(03 Max) from the computer out to the complete engine bay. If anyone has one or can point me in a direction, please post or email me: sandy.cowan (at) bell.ca located in Ontario, Canada
thanks, Sandy
Have you looked in the 5th gen classifieds? Several cars in there being parted out.
Old Feb 29, 2008 | 04:42 PM
  #5190  
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Check www.car-part.com, and look under wiring for that harness.
Old Feb 29, 2008 | 05:29 PM
  #5191  
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Thanks for the quick replies. I'll have a look...
Sandy
Old Feb 29, 2008 | 10:08 PM
  #5192  
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headlight aiming

i have a 2000 gle..i know that you can aim headlights up and down but can they be aimed left to right?

thanks,
mat rivera
Old Feb 29, 2008 | 10:40 PM
  #5193  
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
You want to add spacers to the rear if you get wider tires in teh front? Strange thought, IMO, I would say get stickier tires before you get wider ones.

And spacers should only be used when the actual wheel(s) is/are wider, not just when the tire is.
Well, wider and stickier was what I was thinking. Apparently I have a knack for rigging **** that should never be done haha, just thought I'd ask.
Old Mar 1, 2008 | 07:43 AM
  #5194  
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Hey guys, I'm new here to this forum. I'm a proud owner of a 2007 Frontier and a 2000 maxima.

I have 1 question in reference to the maxima. My turn signals and the hazard lights don't work at all. I've checked the lights and the fuses and they are all good. This might be a silly question for some of you, but it's really driving me crazy because I do not know what to do. Can anybody help me? Thanks guys..............
Old Mar 1, 2008 | 02:52 PM
  #5195  
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Originally Posted by colo
Hey guys, I'm new here to this forum. I'm a proud owner of a 2007 Frontier and a 2000 maxima.

I have 1 question in reference to the maxima. My turn signals and the hazard lights don't work at all. I've checked the lights and the fuses and they are all good. This might be a silly question for some of you, but it's really driving me crazy because I do not know what to do. Can anybody help me? Thanks guys..............

I suck at electrical stuff... but I hope these can help...





Old Mar 1, 2008 | 05:04 PM
  #5196  
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if my Throttle Position Sensor Went bad What can happen???
Old Mar 1, 2008 | 06:36 PM
  #5197  
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Well, problem 1/2 solved. The car now runs better, but will not stay idled for over a minute after warmed up or after driving. Idles good first thing in the morning or when cold. Replaced the MAF due to idle issue and sputtering, and it made the car run better, but still having the idle issue. Got a SES code of P0140, which made me replace the rear o2 sensor after the CAT today. Reset the SES, but still have the idle issue. Could this be a bad idle air control? If so, how do I go about replacing it?
Old Mar 2, 2008 | 09:07 AM
  #5198  
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i have a knocking noise in my motor and have no idea what it is. When i turn on my car it makes it. The when iam im driving, once i let go the accelerator and the rpm's reach 2,000-1,000 and makes a knocking noise again. Anyone know a solution to this problem or what it might be ?? thanks
Old Mar 2, 2008 | 09:16 AM
  #5199  
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Well, the first thing people here would ask is what kind of gas do you use? Octane level?
Old Mar 2, 2008 | 09:23 AM
  #5200  
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Originally Posted by JavY
i have a knocking noise in my motor and have no idea what it is. When i turn on my car it makes it. The when iam im driving, once i let go the accelerator and the rpm's reach 2,000-1,000 and makes a knocking noise again. Anyone know a solution to this problem or what it might be ?? thanks
Sounds like a lifter. Try using Marvel's mystery oil and see if it goes away.
Are you using synthetic oil? If not, then start. Also I wouldn't run anything other than 91 octane gas.

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