QUESTION I NEED DROP SPRINGS DOES ANY ONE HAVE A SET THEY WANT TO SELL I NEED IT FOR A 96 I30 BUT WAS TOLD THAT THE MAXIMA ONE ARE THE SAME...

IF SOME ONE HAS THEM AND ARE IN NEW YORK AREA JUST PM ME

ALSO IM NEW HERE AND DONT KNOW TO MUCH WIT CHECKING STUFF BUT MY PMS SO IF HAVE ANY INFO JUST PM ME...THANK YOU ALL HELP OR INFO WILL HELP........

 

First, seriously, drop the caps. No need to yell.

Second, '96 or '98? Your profile says '98.

Third, you're in the wrong section. 96-99 I30 is the A32 chassis, same as the 4th gen Maxima.

 

i got many questions
1. when crusing and i shift into 4th ...the 4th gear will vibrate very slightly...wut can that be?
2. why doesnt nismo make cold air intakes for 02-03 maximas?
3.does the glx or gle all red taillights fit on a 02?
4.when driving at highway speeds and braking the car shakes and sounds like im going on those lil grooves thats on the side on the highway to wake you up...i think warped rotors?
5. is their a huge differnce in performance or anything else with having hlsd and not having it? i kno both wheels dont spin without hlsd ...
this is a 2002 maxima se 6speed

 

1. The shifter? The car? When shifting into, or when 'cruising' in 4th?
2. Why would they? There isn't much aftermarket support for the Maxima, much less Nismo.
3. You didn't search, did you? I found it on the first page of search results. And what is a 'GLX'?
4. It's possible, yes. When's the last time you did brakes?
5. In a straight line? Going around turns? And who said that both wheels wouldn't spin without HLSD? That's completely incorrect.

 

the 4th gear problem...everything is fine i can shift into 4th fine....just when its in 4th and i let go of the gas to cruise is starts to vibrate only in that gear..jus the shifter vibs...its weird
2.idk nismo makes a cold air intake 04-06 maxs
3.sry didnt mean glx lol i was thinkin glx but relized it was gle did a typo..
4.jus got the car...has 50k on it orginal...so i gotta check the brakes prolly tomorrow
5.idk i thought without hlsd only one wheel spins until fluid heats up in the tranny to make the other wheel spin? if im wrong plez correct me on this whole hlsd and non hlsd thing

 

HLSD uses nothing but mechanical force, not fluid.

VLSD uses a viscous fluid coupling, but the statement is also incorrect for that.

An open diff can easily spin both tires, you in no way need a limited slip for that. Of course, there's no real point in doing so, but that's a different topic.

You can generally get on it a lot more through corners with a limited slip diff, and off the line traction will be somewhat increased.

Unless you're constantly fighting traction problems, or you've got the spare cash to spend, I wouldn't go for an HLSD trans 'just because'. Unless of course you were buying a new trans and there was a negligible price difference between the two.

FWIW you can get the HLSD unit from Nissan separately, but it's about the price of a used 6MT:
38411-8U010, $562.71 each at Courtesy.

 

ok ima keep my non hlsd lol thanks for summing that up....anything you think about that 4th gear vib?

 

any suggestions or good lowering springs? had ground control coilovers with tokico shocks but it was so bumpy and the front would always hit on bumps or potholes- have H and R springs now but do not like the drop

 

Search the Suspension thread.

 

anyone have opinions on quality between the generations? ive heard the maximas made outside of japan arent as good as the others.

 

All 5th gens and below were made in Japan. If you heard that 6th gens aren't as good as 5th gens you won't get many people to argue otherwise here.

 

Quick question:
Are 4th gen axles same as 5th gen ones?
I have a 01 with abs and traction control

 

Assuming you match up the side/ABS/VLSD/trans, then yes.

 

mayb a dumb question
but IYO whats the best racing chip
wanna do some engine work to gain hp
kinda new around cars
PM me if u care thanks

 

There are no 'racing chips' for the A33.

Unless you mean a modified ECU, or a reflash?

In that case, you need to search. Everything you could possibly want to know about them has been covered time and time again.

 

bump

Also... how hard is it to change out my engine mounts? Dealership also commented on my work order that "lower engine mounts broken" and "upper engine mount sagging".

 

So I have an 02' with 130k miles, that has massive oil consumption issues (1qt every 500miles). The car is completely stock and has never even seen 4.5k RPM's. From doing searches on here I have somewhat confirmed my suspicions of bad/faulty rings. My car is also well out of warranty so getting a replacement is not gonna happen for free (from nissan). So my next step I guess is to rebuild an or the engine using aftermarket parts.

1)So from other people point of view, am I looking at this wrong?
2) is there a better alternative?

I hesitate to buy another used engine for fear of the same issue's.
3) If I did go the rebuild route could I use a block from a 350z? as long as it is a VQ35DE?
Last question...Are there any specifics that I should replace when I or if I do this rebuild other than the obvious rings, piston, gaskets?

 

No, you can't use the Z33 engine. Nor the V35, nor the Pathfinder...

You can't use the RWD engine for a FWD car.

Rebuild is going to cost you a fair amount, if you're having a shop do it. Between shop labor costs and their markup on parts, machining, etc, I'd just go with a used engine and have them drop it in.

Why would you replace the pistons? Assuming good condition, of course. Don't forget bearings, that should be a given.

 

I searched the forum and think that my 2000 GLE needs the TSB NTB00-039a service done. Basically on WOT or 3/4 there is a delay/hits the rev limiter from 1-2nd gear shifting. All normal acceleration/driving it shifts smoothly and normally. Since experiencing the delay/rev limit I have not driven the car hard/at WOT. But I want to sell the car for something thats manual. I don't want to pass the buck on someone else when I go to sell tho. BUT, I also do not want to spend $2000 to sell the car in perfect condition, I'd be breaking even if I sell it after paying for repairs....

I was quoted $1,900 from a Seattle Nissan Dealer to perform the service. Is there some other way to fix my problem? Or some other shop suggestion in the NW here? I tried looking in the NW forum, but couldn't find much as far as shops willing/had the knowledge to perform the service needed.

Thanks in advance.

 

Just keep the engine supported some how and you should be able to do them fairly easily. Then again which mounts? The sides or the front and rear one.

To kind of answer your other question about the coils, when i had to replace mine i had a missfire a couple thousand miles before they finally went bad. I replaced all at once for the just incase scenario. 40k miles later no problems i also changed the plugs mine went out around 100k. I got them off ebay all 6 for around 300 but that was a couple years ago.

 

Im looking for these same answers... ive been searching the forums and found nothing... anyone have some useful info that i could use?

 

I don't understand, it took me less than thirty seconds to find this thread. There are many more. http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-how-here.html

 

Hi Guys,

I'm new to your forum, so I can not post thread. Btw nice Board !!!
I'm a new owner of a very clean 2001 Maxima with A/T transmision. I know it is A/T, but....


Here is my problem:

When I start the car, the Idle is around 1200-1500 and sometime it bouncing to 1900

I cleaned the trottle body. but it didn't fix the problem, It look like a manifold leak.

Could it be something else than a leak?

I have a check engine for the ISAC, maybe it's only because the ECM doesn't understand why the idle doesn't match with the ISAC control...

Where should I look for leak on the manifold?

Thanks guys

 

its easy man
the problem can be solved by changing the advanced timing to 17 and also changing the idle from 625 to 690 , this will help make the idle rpm lower and it will make it a lot faster in performance wise as well.

good luck =]

 

Sorry but how can I do that ?

I'm a new owner of Maxima. Before I had a Eagle talon Tsi awd, it was easy, I just had to turn the CAS (Cam angle sensor)

You are sure it's not a leak problem?

thanks for you're answer it was fast

 

lol no problem , well there are two things you can do, first keep the car parked overnight then at the morning move it and see if you can find any leakage , then drive around with the car at about 4000 rpm and then park the car at a spot for like 2 hours and get back to it and move it to check for any spills, if you find nothing then there are no leaks.

Second thing you do if you want to advance the timing to 17 degree is to go to a nissan dealership and tell them you want to do it , or you can go to a mechanic that you know that has the CONSULT II machine . Its only a small programming process , it will cost something between $0-$70 which depends on the person you go to

hope that helps

 

by keak I mean leak of air. Some air is introduced in the system without any control of the trottle body

Are you kidding me???

And the car pull hard I tried against other Maxima and they were in my mirror

 

Oh and by the is the intake manifold collector is reusable?

I will probably lift the collector this weekend

 

there is nothing as leak of air.... u can use a gab , look for it on other threads , it involves making holes all over the intake system so it wont be a problem at all in the maxima , and yes it is reusable

 

Are you drunk or tired?

Maybe I don't understand what you're telling me

 

why u calling me drunk for?

i am telling u what i know
sorry if its not enough

go make your own thread after posting 10 more posts anywhere
goodluck

 

First lol at the other guys replies he is simplifying it way to much.

Ok i think you mean IAC idle air control valve not ISAC it is located in the throttle body i believe were the butterfly valve is. When you open the throttle by hand you can kind of see a small depression well thats were its at. Try cleaning really well there again by wetting a rag with carb cleaner.
Or just remove the throttle body and clean it real well but be carefull not to damage the iac. Also move the throttle by hand to see if it sticks.
Another thing that it could be is a clogged or broken vaccum line check them to see if you have a cracked or leaking hose.
One thing you can try to maybe fix this is using seafoam, do a search on it.
Hope this helps

 

Any transmission savvy ppl in here? Or at least know where I can find some?

 

Most would say try replacing the trans yourself since you can buy an auto trans for 300-800 bucks or see if anyone in your local forum can help you out. Or maybe just get rid of the car if when driving normally its fine, since dealers warrant most cars they sell the new user might get it fixed for free

 

Not bad.Just mainly for looks not performance.Or for doing a fairly simple projector retrofit.

 

ok so no 350z engines, gotcha

I figured rebuilding wasn't going to be cheap (at least not like rebuilding of a chevy) but Im not really into the idea of a "shop" doing this. I am planning on doing most of this myself.

As far as pistons, Im not sure of your answer...why wouldn't I replace the pistons? If I am tearing the old engine down to fix an internal engine problem why would I want to put old pistons back in?

As for bearings and such, oh of course I would replace that, along with seals, gaskets, ect..

Where would be the best place to get a bare block then?

 

Thank you
I already cleaned my TB and it's not the problem

But I'm not sure but I hear some noise behind the Intake manifold collector. What could leak in this area?

If I remove the intake manifold collector this weekend. Could I reuse the gasket ?

Thank you

 

I just called the Nissan dealership here and they told me they would have to take the "font cover" off to do this. Said it was about 8-10 hours labor.

I then stated it should only be a small programming procedure using a CONSULT II machine and he still said it would be 8-10 hours labor.

So that's a little more than $70 dollars...

Are they just feeding me some BS cause they don't know what theyre talking about or what?

Please shine some light...

 

Tell them they are retarded lol it takes like ten or five minutes to do this. Plug in nissan consult tool, change timing turn keys to off position, turn car on check if timing is at 17 and bam thats it lol. Trying calling a different dealership. The timing on these cars is electronically controlled not by a timing belt like older cars lol

 

Do you mean the vias activator? The thing circled in red?