5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
06-26-2009, 11:03 AM
#8761
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 2
If this question has been asked I apologize, but I've been searching for the past 40 minutes or so and haven't found a question that matches my condition.
My Problem:
Car started stalling this afternoon while driving. It is idling fine, and was NOT stalling while sitting at a light or while parked (this is the most common issue I found while searching). First time it stalled I was speeding up from 30. Hit about 3k RPM then I started losing power fast - RPM's were bouncing back and forth between 2k and 3k, before they dropped off completely and the car stalled. Ran about 2 miles before it happened again. By that point I was a few blocks from my apartment so I tried one last time, but it stalled less than a mile later. It was a downhill coast with no power, but was able to get it home at least.
Fun Facts:
Nissan Maxima 2003 - Automatic (wish it were manual)
130k miles
No CEL
Starts, but does take a second or two longer to catch
No audible engine noises - sounds brand new when it is actually running
No Smoking/Overheating/Oil Light/other indications
1/4 tank of gas
Not overheating
Recent work:
Had my second CAM Sensor replaced under recall two weeks ago (first was replaced a year ago...didn't research enough to find out about the recall...doh).
My Problem:
Car started stalling this afternoon while driving. It is idling fine, and was NOT stalling while sitting at a light or while parked (this is the most common issue I found while searching). First time it stalled I was speeding up from 30. Hit about 3k RPM then I started losing power fast - RPM's were bouncing back and forth between 2k and 3k, before they dropped off completely and the car stalled. Ran about 2 miles before it happened again. By that point I was a few blocks from my apartment so I tried one last time, but it stalled less than a mile later. It was a downhill coast with no power, but was able to get it home at least.
Fun Facts:
Nissan Maxima 2003 - Automatic (wish it were manual)
130k miles
No CEL
Starts, but does take a second or two longer to catch
No audible engine noises - sounds brand new when it is actually running
No Smoking/Overheating/Oil Light/other indications
1/4 tank of gas
Not overheating
Recent work:
Had my second CAM Sensor replaced under recall two weeks ago (first was replaced a year ago...didn't research enough to find out about the recall...doh).
06-26-2009, 01:51 PM
#8762
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 2
Can it be saved???
My low mileage 02 SE recently swallowed a screw from the power valve. Long story short I tore the engine apart and here are pics of the carnage. I am looking for opinions. Can this head be saved?
Thanks, David
Thanks, David
06-27-2009, 11:31 AM
#8763
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 2
The screeching noise at start up is most likely one of your drive belts slipping. This is a guess of course. You might want to replace both belts if they haven't replaced all ready. Belt replacement is a maintenance item.
The other noise is not completely uncommon. The degree of it may be. It could be a number of front suspension components. It could be the strut tower mounts, sway bar bushings, sway bar end links or something else. It could be a combination of these and other components. I would start with replacing the sway bar bushings and then the strut mounts. Then the sway bar end links. Without being able to hear the noise nor inspect the car I can't be absolutely sure. But you always start with the least expensive/easiest repair and move on from there.
The other noise is not completely uncommon. The degree of it may be. It could be a number of front suspension components. It could be the strut tower mounts, sway bar bushings, sway bar end links or something else. It could be a combination of these and other components. I would start with replacing the sway bar bushings and then the strut mounts. Then the sway bar end links. Without being able to hear the noise nor inspect the car I can't be absolutely sure. But you always start with the least expensive/easiest repair and move on from there.
Thank you! I will replace the drive belts and start on the other things you mentioned. Hopefully it's not too expensive. Thanks!
06-27-2009, 01:13 PM
#8764
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Germany
Posts: 4
cooling fan???????????
Let's begin..... start the car, turn the a/c on and . . . . no cooling fans. ok checked all connections, fuses, and relays, all good so i put 12v from the battery to the fan itself, once again no fan. normaly at this point i would say replace it and move on but it seems weird to me that both fans would stop working simultaneously. anyone out there a little more fimilar with the electrical systems for these fans? do i need to run a seprate ground as well as the 12v from the battery to the fans. and if so what color on the fan harness to ground and what color for 12v.Thanks
06-28-2009, 11:08 AM
#8767
To cut the key they'll only need the VIN (assuming they can get your key code).
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ine-stand.html
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/3...and-bolts.html
...etc
06-28-2009, 11:17 AM
#8768
I believe HNDA_ETR has a set of heads in the classifieds.
Let's begin..... start the car, turn the a/c on and . . . . no cooling fans. ok checked all connections, fuses, and relays, all good so i put 12v from the battery to the fan itself, once again no fan. normaly at this point i would say replace it and move on but it seems weird to me that both fans would stop working simultaneously. anyone out there a little more fimilar with the electrical systems for these fans? do i need to run a seprate ground as well as the 12v from the battery to the fans. and if so what color on the fan harness to ground and what color for 12v.Thanks
If you're testing high speed operation, you would either need to jump the relays or just run B+ and ground directly to the fan connectors.
If you want to test low speed, just run B+ to either the W/R or G/R wire, depending on fan.
If high speed, run ground to L/B or L/R, and B+ to R/Y or R/B, respectively.
06-28-2009, 06:01 PM
#8770
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: san jose, ca
Posts: 2
question about stalling in 02 6 speed
I have an 02 SE 6-speed with 95k miles on it. A few weeks ago, the SES light came on and I took it to a shop which told me that the codes were P0300, P0455 and P01456. They said that the problem was that one of my vacuum lines wasnt put on tight enough, and that it had been fixed. Now, I am having problems with the car stalling. Sometimes when I am slowing down (getting off the freeway or turning into my driveway) or at idle the car stalls. I turn the key and it turns back on with no problems. It happens pretty often in both hot and cold weather. The light was off for about 4 days after I had the problem "fixed" and now it is back on again. Any ideas on what could be causing my stalling problems?
Also, I hear a grinding/metallic rubbing sound (coming from what sounds like the drivers side wheel well) when I am making u-turns. Any ideas on what that could be and how to fix it?
Any answers are much appreciated!
Also, I hear a grinding/metallic rubbing sound (coming from what sounds like the drivers side wheel well) when I am making u-turns. Any ideas on what that could be and how to fix it?
Any answers are much appreciated!
06-28-2009, 06:34 PM
#8771
I have an 02 SE 6-speed with 95k miles on it. A few weeks ago, the SES light came on and I took it to a shop which told me that the codes were P0300, P0455 and P01456. They said that the problem was that one of my vacuum lines wasnt put on tight enough, and that it had been fixed. Now, I am having problems with the car stalling. Sometimes when I am slowing down (getting off the freeway or turning into my driveway) or at idle the car stalls. I turn the key and it turns back on with no problems. It happens pretty often in both hot and cold weather. The light was off for about 4 days after I had the problem "fixed" and now it is back on again. Any ideas on what could be causing my stalling problems?
Also, I hear a grinding/metallic rubbing sound (coming from what sounds like the drivers side wheel well) when I am making u-turns. Any ideas on what that could be and how to fix it?
Any answers are much appreciated!
Also, I hear a grinding/metallic rubbing sound (coming from what sounds like the drivers side wheel well) when I am making u-turns. Any ideas on what that could be and how to fix it?
Any answers are much appreciated!
http://forums.maxima.org/fluids-lubricants-52/
06-28-2009, 06:38 PM
#8772
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: san jose, ca
Posts: 2
[quote=pmohr;7093199]Have you gotten the codes pulled again yet? Just because the CEL is on so quickly doesn't mean the codes will be the same.
Sorry, I failed to mention that they are the same (minus one). Still have a random misfiring and a small evap leak.
Sorry, I failed to mention that they are the same (minus one). Still have a random misfiring and a small evap leak.
06-28-2009, 06:45 PM
#8773
newbie to fifth gen, i just got my fiancé an 02 gle, when i hit the brakes a light comes up on the dash, it looks like 2 lights in red. all my lights work, so needles to say I'm a bit confused.
Any help
Any help
06-28-2009, 06:56 PM
#8774
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 217
fog lights for 5th gen 2003 nissam maxima
Hi i just upgraded from a 2k max to a 2k3...when i got the car one of the fog lights were already cracked. i was not looking to get stock parts again. I wanted to know if anybody had some good brands or places i can go to get the fog lights. im looking for mainly HID lights or xenon whatever goes best with the car cause the head lights are xenon lights....JUST NEED SOME ADVICE! thanks
06-29-2009, 01:01 PM
#8775
Hi i just upgraded from a 2k max to a 2k3...when i got the car one of the fog lights were already cracked. i was not looking to get stock parts again. I wanted to know if anybody had some good brands or places i can go to get the fog lights. im looking for mainly HID lights or xenon whatever goes best with the car cause the head lights are xenon lights....JUST NEED SOME ADVICE! thanks
EBAY has tons of lights/fogs for that car, good prices too
06-29-2009, 01:19 PM
#8777
06-29-2009, 01:24 PM
#8778
06-29-2009, 01:32 PM
#8779
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 1
Timing Chain
6 months ago i paid 6k for a 2002 maxima se with 107k miles. recently i have been experiencing a rattling noise upon start that is apparently a wearing sprocket controlled by the timing chain. My question is whether i should have new sprockets put in and overall how much this would cost: parts, labor, etc. or if there is a better option that is cheaper or safer. thanks.
06-29-2009, 08:30 PM
#8780
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 19
Ok..so from previous page i mentioned that my car has been draining battery and i took it to autozone and walmart, they all say alternator is ok.. but somehow low on voltage.
anyway, today my car died again. i bought another battery and im gonna take the 2 days old one to walmart to have them recharge it.
if the alternator is fine then there's short circuit somewhere,the dealer changed some wiring harness and knock sensor 2 weeks ago. I doubt they will take up the responsibility if something is messed up.. anyway. is there battery charge I can buy that i can recharge my battery at night? i have 2 battery now, i figure each will last me 2 days. i just have to swap them back and forth, if they die. i can take it back to walmart to get a free replaceemnt..i just want to buy the machine to recharge battery at home, does it exit? and how much would it be?
this car is old..im just gonna drive it to the ground when either engine or tranmission fails on me. everything else..i'll try to cope with it as long as i have a/c and it runs ok
anyway, today my car died again. i bought another battery and im gonna take the 2 days old one to walmart to have them recharge it.
if the alternator is fine then there's short circuit somewhere,the dealer changed some wiring harness and knock sensor 2 weeks ago. I doubt they will take up the responsibility if something is messed up.. anyway. is there battery charge I can buy that i can recharge my battery at night? i have 2 battery now, i figure each will last me 2 days. i just have to swap them back and forth, if they die. i can take it back to walmart to get a free replaceemnt..i just want to buy the machine to recharge battery at home, does it exit? and how much would it be?
this car is old..im just gonna drive it to the ground when either engine or tranmission fails on me. everything else..i'll try to cope with it as long as i have a/c and it runs ok
Last edited by Bl_asd1; 06-29-2009 at 08:32 PM.
06-29-2009, 08:32 PM
#8781
Ok..so from previous page i mentioned that my car has been draining battery and i took it to autozone and walmart, they all say alternator is ok.. but somehow low on voltage.
anyway, today my car died again. i bought another battery and im gonna take the 2 days old one to walmart to have them recharge it.
this car is old..if the alternator is fine then there's short circuit somewhere,the dealer changed some wiring harness and knock sensor 2 weeks ago. I doubt they will take up the responsibility if something is messed up.. anyway. is there battery charge I can buy that i can recharge my battery at night? i have 2 battery now, i figure each will last me 2 days. i just have to swap them back and forth, if they die. i can take it back to walmart to get a free replaceemnt..i just want to buy the machine to recharge battery at home, does it exit? and how much would it be?
anyway, today my car died again. i bought another battery and im gonna take the 2 days old one to walmart to have them recharge it.
this car is old..if the alternator is fine then there's short circuit somewhere,the dealer changed some wiring harness and knock sensor 2 weeks ago. I doubt they will take up the responsibility if something is messed up.. anyway. is there battery charge I can buy that i can recharge my battery at night? i have 2 battery now, i figure each will last me 2 days. i just have to swap them back and forth, if they die. i can take it back to walmart to get a free replaceemnt..i just want to buy the machine to recharge battery at home, does it exit? and how much would it be?
Search for the prices.
Have you not tested for a parasitic drain yet? Are you seriously just going to swap the battery every 2 days for the life of the car?
06-29-2009, 08:32 PM
#8782
06-29-2009, 08:38 PM
#8783
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 19
what's parasitic drain? does autozone or walmart do it?
06-29-2009, 08:40 PM
#8784
No, I highly doubt they'd bother testing your car, even for a fee.
If you can't do it yourself, take it to a shop. Swapping out batteries that often is just plain ridiculous. You're just asking to get stranded somewhere
http://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-Drain
If you can't do it yourself, take it to a shop. Swapping out batteries that often is just plain ridiculous. You're just asking to get stranded somewhere
http://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-Drain
06-29-2009, 08:48 PM
#8785
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 19
ok sweet, i'll do this friday, but in the mean time..how do i prevent this happening. for now I disconnect my battery when my car is off. I didnt know about the parasitic drain but somehow i knew it was possible. so i already removed the battery. i guess i have to keep doing it till i find out the problem. any other way to prevent the drain? i assume my alternator can charge my battery when i put it on
No, I highly doubt they'd bother testing your car, even for a fee.
If you can't do it yourself, take it to a shop. Swapping out batteries that often is just plain ridiculous. You're just asking to get stranded somewhere
http://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-Drain
If you can't do it yourself, take it to a shop. Swapping out batteries that often is just plain ridiculous. You're just asking to get stranded somewhere
http://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-Drain
06-29-2009, 11:57 PM
#8786
got a question i need to do a tune up on my 2000 can i do the the plug myself? And Also what else needs to be done for a tune up ? please someone get back to me asap thank you
Last edited by MoeBelikeMax; 06-30-2009 at 12:01 AM.
06-30-2009, 05:40 AM
#8787
Have you searched? There are many many threads on tuneups, and several DIYs on how to replace the plugs.
06-30-2009, 12:00 PM
#8788
I have a 2003 Maxima SE w 6spd.
Friday night I hit a deer in the very front center - headlights are good but the bumper/Grille/Radiator/and Hood are shot.
Insurance just totalled it out since the Air Bags blew.
Anyone know about using airbags from Ebay or here? Is that a safe prospect typically if you get them calibrated correctly?
Friday night I hit a deer in the very front center - headlights are good but the bumper/Grille/Radiator/and Hood are shot.
Insurance just totalled it out since the Air Bags blew.
Anyone know about using airbags from Ebay or here? Is that a safe prospect typically if you get them calibrated correctly?
06-30-2009, 04:50 PM
#8789
well i did ask more then one question now i have change sprak plug on other cars screwed them out and put the new ones in. But My other Question Was Besides spark plug having to be changed what else is done when i say i need a tune
06-30-2009, 05:37 PM
#8790
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 24
Air Conditionner
I have a question concerning my A/C. Lately, it has started to blow hot air. I have read around and numerous people have mentioned things from cleaning our their A/C to recharging it. Where should I start? Should I just purchase r134a and a filler hose to recharge or seek other procedures for curing this problem?
06-30-2009, 06:21 PM
#8791
I have a question concerning my A/C. Lately, it has started to blow hot air. I have read around and numerous people have mentioned things from cleaning our their A/C to recharging it. Where should I start? Should I just purchase r134a and a filler hose to recharge or seek other procedures for curing this problem?
Get a gauge set (or take it to a shop), see if there's any refrigerant in there. You can do a quick test by just depressing one of the valves, just look for a cap marked H or L. Of course it'll always let some out unless the system is 100% depressurized.
07-01-2009, 06:29 AM
#8792
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 21
Hey everyone my names Frank and I have a black 2000 nissan maxima GLE. I was looking around and saw the AE mod, which btw is really sick =P. Anyway, I have strobelights drilled into my headlights. When I take my light out, i would take the strobe light out as well. Would the AE mod still work ok. I'll take pics of my strobe lights if that is any easier.
07-01-2009, 02:19 PM
#8793
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 24
thanks pmohr. I have another question I purchased a Purolaor Air Filter and its different than the micro cabin air filter I had in my 2001 Nissan Maxima. The Purolator has a rubber backing do i face the rubber backing towards the right mirror or left mirror.
07-01-2009, 02:34 PM
#8794
According to their site, they don't make a cabin air filter.
07-01-2009, 02:43 PM
#8795
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 24
I have the Purolator A24278 Air Filter and was going to put it in the Cabin Air part behind the dash board.
07-01-2009, 02:49 PM
#8796
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 2
2001 power issues
I am new here so thank you in advance of any assistance that you guys can offer.As stated above I have a 2001 Maxima
130+ miles.
On the way back form my honeymoon we were driving back from Ft. Lauderdale to TN and the issue started.
Power on the low end (below 2500-3000 rpm) was ok, not great.
Above 3000 (if you could get there) was non existent.
So he is a description of the symptoms.
Running in top gear, add a little bit of gas and the motor just falls on it's face. You let totally off the gas and slowly pick it back up and you can regain momentum and speed.
At first there were several codes, fuel too rich, fuel too lean then rear O2 sensor. I cleared the codes in Fla and they never came back on all of the way back to Tennessee.
It reminds me of when you start a motorcycle or weedeater with the choke on it has not warmed up yet, when you give it too much gas it just wants to stall out.
I have had these thoughts of the cause.
Bad fuel filter
Bad fuel pump
Bad mas air flow sensor
Any assistance or thoughts you can think of would be of great help.
Are there any diagnostic tests I can perform
thanks chris
130+ miles.
On the way back form my honeymoon we were driving back from Ft. Lauderdale to TN and the issue started.
Power on the low end (below 2500-3000 rpm) was ok, not great.
Above 3000 (if you could get there) was non existent.
So he is a description of the symptoms.
Running in top gear, add a little bit of gas and the motor just falls on it's face. You let totally off the gas and slowly pick it back up and you can regain momentum and speed.
At first there were several codes, fuel too rich, fuel too lean then rear O2 sensor. I cleared the codes in Fla and they never came back on all of the way back to Tennessee.
It reminds me of when you start a motorcycle or weedeater with the choke on it has not warmed up yet, when you give it too much gas it just wants to stall out.
I have had these thoughts of the cause.
Bad fuel filter
Bad fuel pump
Bad mas air flow sensor
Any assistance or thoughts you can think of would be of great help.
Are there any diagnostic tests I can perform
thanks chris
07-01-2009, 03:21 PM
#8797
07-01-2009, 03:30 PM
#8798
I am new here so thank you in advance of any assistance that you guys can offer.As stated above I have a 2001 Maxima
130+ miles.
On the way back form my honeymoon we were driving back from Ft. Lauderdale to TN and the issue started.
Power on the low end (below 2500-3000 rpm) was ok, not great.
Above 3000 (if you could get there) was non existent.
So he is a description of the symptoms.
Running in top gear, add a little bit of gas and the motor just falls on it's face. You let totally off the gas and slowly pick it back up and you can regain momentum and speed.
At first there were several codes, fuel too rich, fuel too lean then rear O2 sensor. I cleared the codes in Fla and they never came back on all of the way back to Tennessee.
It reminds me of when you start a motorcycle or weedeater with the choke on it has not warmed up yet, when you give it too much gas it just wants to stall out.
I have had these thoughts of the cause.
Bad fuel filter
Bad fuel pump
Bad mas air flow sensor
Any assistance or thoughts you can think of would be of great help.
Are there any diagnostic tests I can perform
thanks chris
130+ miles.
On the way back form my honeymoon we were driving back from Ft. Lauderdale to TN and the issue started.
Power on the low end (below 2500-3000 rpm) was ok, not great.
Above 3000 (if you could get there) was non existent.
So he is a description of the symptoms.
Running in top gear, add a little bit of gas and the motor just falls on it's face. You let totally off the gas and slowly pick it back up and you can regain momentum and speed.
At first there were several codes, fuel too rich, fuel too lean then rear O2 sensor. I cleared the codes in Fla and they never came back on all of the way back to Tennessee.
It reminds me of when you start a motorcycle or weedeater with the choke on it has not warmed up yet, when you give it too much gas it just wants to stall out.
I have had these thoughts of the cause.
Bad fuel filter
Bad fuel pump
Bad mas air flow sensor
Any assistance or thoughts you can think of would be of great help.
Are there any diagnostic tests I can perform
thanks chris
Personally I'd try to swap in a known good MAF from a local member, see if that works before you go out and buy one. They're only ~$80 shipped from Dave B, though.
What part of TN?
07-01-2009, 03:45 PM
#8799
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 24
thanks pmohr. Yea I realized that. I was just seeing what way I could have a more cost-effective cabin air filter. Cause the Wix one retails at 28$ on Rock Auto. But, I just installed the Purolator Air Filter and replaced my old one and try to continue to find a good but affordable cabin air filter.
07-01-2009, 03:47 PM
#8800
thanks pmohr. Yea I realized that. I was just seeing what way I could have a more cost-effective cabin air filter. Cause the Wix one retails at 28$ on Rock Auto. But, I just installed the Purolator Air Filter and replaced my old one and try to continue to find a good but affordable cabin air filter.