5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
06-01-2010, 01:49 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Rome GA
Posts: 31
now that you mention it i did recently replace my battery and don't think i've heard that chime sounding funny afterwords... damn i'm gonna double check my wiring just in case
06-01-2010, 04:45 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Miami
Posts: 238
Hey folks i have a question about headlights. I have an 05 with the factory HID system. One of the ballasts appear to have gone bad because it just gives a quick flash when the headlights are turned on but then stay off while the other one stays on. I bought an oem replacement ballast but im not sure how to replace it. Does the whole headlight assembly need to be removed and if so how do i go about doing that? Any help is appreciated.
06-01-2010, 07:07 PM
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Location: West Haven, CT
Posts: 13
tinting headlights vs. nightshading headlights
i'm getting an HID's and was going to get either the spray on or film applicator to my headlights to say, 'tint' them..any suggestions for an HID conversion kit (w/ a decent ballast) and any suggestions about tinting the headlights??
'01 SE
'01 SE
06-01-2010, 07:12 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Houston
Posts: 1
Front struts replacement on '02 SE
My local dealer just quoted me $1300 to replace the front struts on my '02 Max. I used to be a go-to-the-dealer guy because I had an honest, dependable one. But they're crap now, too...paying for the new building, I guess.
Anyway, I'm looking for information on 1) what brand of aftermarket struts should I go with, and 2) what should I be aware of regarding this repair, in general?
Any information would be helpful, but especially info on a dependable repair place in SW Houston.
Anyway, I'm looking for information on 1) what brand of aftermarket struts should I go with, and 2) what should I be aware of regarding this repair, in general?
Any information would be helpful, but especially info on a dependable repair place in SW Houston.
06-02-2010, 06:12 AM
Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Miami
Posts: 238
Hey folks i have a question about headlights. I have an 05 with the factory HID system. One of the ballasts appear to have gone bad because it just gives a quick flash when the headlights are turned on but then stay off while the other one stays on. I bought an oem replacement ballast but im not sure how to replace it. Does the whole headlight assembly need to be removed and if so how do i go about doing that? Any help is appreciated.
06-02-2010, 06:33 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Brandon, FL
Posts: 897
Hey folks i have a question about headlights. I have an 05 with the factory HID system. One of the ballasts appear to have gone bad because it just gives a quick flash when the headlights are turned on but then stay off while the other one stays on. I bought an oem replacement ballast but im not sure how to replace it. Does the whole headlight assembly need to be removed and if so how do i go about doing that? Any help is appreciated.
06-02-2010, 06:46 AM
He cant post new threads and the 6th gen forum doesn't have one of these type of threads.
Maybe search the 6th gen forum for HID info
Not all 6th gens came with HID's, so perhaps there's a thread on how to replace the halogens w/ factory HID's..
Maybe search the 6th gen forum for HID info
Not all 6th gens came with HID's, so perhaps there's a thread on how to replace the halogens w/ factory HID's..
Last edited by NmexMAX; 06-02-2010 at 06:48 AM.
06-02-2010, 07:11 PM
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Posts: 3
Question on Alternator
First, a formal greeting to all Maxima Enthusiasts is definitely in order here 
I have just recently purchased a used 2001 Maxima 20th Anniversary Edition off a local dealership in Canada. I paid about CAD$3,500 (including all the Emission Test & an Oil Change). I thought I got a bargain.
Although this was not unexpected, some problems are starting to surface. First of all, I have to say I am loving this car for every penny it's worth and I panic every time anything goes wrong.
Last week my car died on me and the mechanic said it was probably the battery, so I switched the battery and it was fine. The mechanic said the old one I had was probably changed by some idiots who put a battery that was too small for a Maxima (The entire battery box only filled up 2/3 of the battery platform) He said it looked like battery from a Honda Civic.
Anyways, I got that fixed up and drove for a week up until today and it died on me again, this time the mechanic said it was probably the alternator because it was only pumping out 11.9v (or amp, I forgot which one it is). So I had to install a new Alternator for about CAD$550 (including the Electrical Test and the Labor). I am not worried about the price, but since I am a car noob... is there anyone able to lecture me on the whole alternator thing and how it works and for a new 2nd hand buyer, what precautions should I take into consideration to further extend this car's life?
Thank you so much in advance, and I hope to hear from you experts soon!
I have just recently purchased a used 2001 Maxima 20th Anniversary Edition off a local dealership in Canada. I paid about CAD$3,500 (including all the Emission Test & an Oil Change). I thought I got a bargain.
Although this was not unexpected, some problems are starting to surface. First of all, I have to say I am loving this car for every penny it's worth and I panic every time anything goes wrong.
Last week my car died on me and the mechanic said it was probably the battery, so I switched the battery and it was fine. The mechanic said the old one I had was probably changed by some idiots who put a battery that was too small for a Maxima (The entire battery box only filled up 2/3 of the battery platform) He said it looked like battery from a Honda Civic.
Anyways, I got that fixed up and drove for a week up until today and it died on me again, this time the mechanic said it was probably the alternator because it was only pumping out 11.9v (or amp, I forgot which one it is). So I had to install a new Alternator for about CAD$550 (including the Electrical Test and the Labor). I am not worried about the price, but since I am a car noob... is there anyone able to lecture me on the whole alternator thing and how it works and for a new 2nd hand buyer, what precautions should I take into consideration to further extend this car's life?
Thank you so much in advance, and I hope to hear from you experts soon!
06-02-2010, 09:01 PM
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: West Haven, CT
Posts: 13
crazyazn172
I'm not positive, but I'm pretty sure when you start your car, the battery initially powers the alternator which then runs on its own (you should be able to, while the car is on, disconnect the battery without the car dying) if the car dies, then most likely your alternator is shot. Your problem does not seem like an alternator issue, I feel as if that mechanic is just trying to sell you a battery and alternator like all mechanics try to do because then they charge out the *** for labor. If the car keeps dying it might have a significant 'short' in some area of the wiring. Also my old maxima had that same issue and it had to do with some cpu component for the computer portion of the engine (don't quote me on that).
About the cars maintenance, regular fuel is fine BUT definetly start using full synthetic oil if youre not already (preferably mobile 1, its cheap at any walmart). then reg tune ups every 10, 000..air filters, spark plugs, cap overs..stuff like that. you can read all about it in any maxima manual.
About the cars maintenance, regular fuel is fine BUT definetly start using full synthetic oil if youre not already (preferably mobile 1, its cheap at any walmart). then reg tune ups every 10, 000..air filters, spark plugs, cap overs..stuff like that. you can read all about it in any maxima manual.
06-03-2010, 06:22 AM
First, a formal greeting to all Maxima Enthusiasts is definitely in order here
I have just recently purchased a used 2001 Maxima 20th Anniversary Edition off a local dealership in Canada. I paid about CAD$3,500 (including all the Emission Test & an Oil Change). I thought I got a bargain.
Although this was not unexpected, some problems are starting to surface. First of all, I have to say I am loving this car for every penny it's worth and I panic every time anything goes wrong.
Last week my car died on me and the mechanic said it was probably the battery, so I switched the battery and it was fine. The mechanic said the old one I had was probably changed by some idiots who put a battery that was too small for a Maxima (The entire battery box only filled up 2/3 of the battery platform) He said it looked like battery from a Honda Civic.
Anyways, I got that fixed up and drove for a week up until today and it died on me again, this time the mechanic said it was probably the alternator because it was only pumping out 11.9v (or amp, I forgot which one it is). So I had to install a new Alternator for about CAD$550 (including the Electrical Test and the Labor). I am not worried about the price, but since I am a car noob... is there anyone able to lecture me on the whole alternator thing and how it works and for a new 2nd hand buyer, what precautions should I take into consideration to further extend this car's life?
Thank you so much in advance, and I hope to hear from you experts soon!
I have just recently purchased a used 2001 Maxima 20th Anniversary Edition off a local dealership in Canada. I paid about CAD$3,500 (including all the Emission Test & an Oil Change). I thought I got a bargain.
Although this was not unexpected, some problems are starting to surface. First of all, I have to say I am loving this car for every penny it's worth and I panic every time anything goes wrong.
Last week my car died on me and the mechanic said it was probably the battery, so I switched the battery and it was fine. The mechanic said the old one I had was probably changed by some idiots who put a battery that was too small for a Maxima (The entire battery box only filled up 2/3 of the battery platform) He said it looked like battery from a Honda Civic.
Anyways, I got that fixed up and drove for a week up until today and it died on me again, this time the mechanic said it was probably the alternator because it was only pumping out 11.9v (or amp, I forgot which one it is). So I had to install a new Alternator for about CAD$550 (including the Electrical Test and the Labor). I am not worried about the price, but since I am a car noob... is there anyone able to lecture me on the whole alternator thing and how it works and for a new 2nd hand buyer, what precautions should I take into consideration to further extend this car's life?
Thank you so much in advance, and I hope to hear from you experts soon!
Search DAVEB the parts guy, he can give you good prices. Or
courtesy Nissan.
06-03-2010, 08:42 AM
I'm not positive, but I'm pretty sure when you start your car, the battery initially powers the alternator which then runs on its own (you should be able to, while the car is on, disconnect the battery without the car dying) if the car dies, then most likely your alternator is shot. Your problem does not seem like an alternator issue, I feel as if that mechanic is just trying to sell you a battery and alternator like all mechanics try to do because then they charge out the *** for labor. If the car keeps dying it might have a significant 'short' in some area of the wiring. Also my old maxima had that same issue and it had to do with some cpu component for the computer portion of the engine (don't quote me on that).
About the cars maintenance, regular fuel is fine BUT definetly start using full synthetic oil if youre not already (preferably mobile 1, its cheap at any walmart). then reg tune ups every 10, 000..air filters, spark plugs, cap overs..stuff like that. you can read all about it in any maxima manual.
About the cars maintenance, regular fuel is fine BUT definetly start using full synthetic oil if youre not already (preferably mobile 1, its cheap at any walmart). then reg tune ups every 10, 000..air filters, spark plugs, cap overs..stuff like that. you can read all about it in any maxima manual.
There is some potentially incorrect stuff amid the bad spelling and grammar.I'll try to dissect this before I go for another Tylenol.
1. Car cuts out and won't turn over: Most mechanics will just slap another battery in, and check to see if it charges.
2. If it cuts out again, they take a closer look at the charging system. Alternators can have intermittent failure cycles, but they are the next logical place in the chain, because it makes the electricity that charges the battery as well as the electricity to run everything else electric in the car: spark plugs, power windows, stereo, AC blower, whatever.
3. If the car dies with electrical symptoms again, well, then yeah, there is another problem, but this suddenly gets highly dependent on the circumstances. And quite frankly, fuses should be blowing somewhere.
To the other recommendations:
1. The 01 Nissan Maxima does not have a "Cap" which I presume to mean, in the context of a "tune up" to mean a "distributor cap." It has a distributor-less ignition system, common since the early 90's.
2. The VQ series of engine run platinum or iridium-type spark plugs that have a service life of 100,000 miles. If you change them every 10,000, you're wasting money, and run the risk of breaking something every time you do. So don't do that. And don't try to economize by going with the older plug types. It's not worth it.
ETA:
And NO, the battery does NOT "power the alternator."
The battery stores power to start your car, run the lights and radio or whatever. When you start your car, the battery provides power to the starter motor, which turns your engine a few times, and the battery also provides power to the fuel system, and the ignition system, which all works together to get the engine running. Once the engine is running, it turns the alternator, that now makes the electricity to recharge the battery from having started the car and run all the other electrical things in the car.
If the battery won't "hold a charge" the car generally won't start.
If the alternator no longer makes enough electricity to keep the battery charged, either because you're using too much electricity with your crazy stereo, or because it's broken, your battery will eventually be empty, and no longer able to run things like your fuel system or ignition system, and the car will stop running.
Disconnecting the battery while the car is running is generally not the right test, because some car designs require the battery to be in place for everything to work (like on late 80's Chevrolet Caprices). If that's the case it can damage the ECU, or the alternator. Charging voltage with the least and then the greatest load will give you a better idea of how healthy everything is.
Last edited by homeyclaus; 06-03-2010 at 09:19 AM.
06-03-2010, 09:07 AM
I have just recently purchased a used 2001 Maxima 20th Anniversary Edition off a local dealership in Canada. I paid about CAD$3,500 (including all the Emission Test & an Oil Change). I thought I got a bargain.
Although this was not unexpected, some problems are starting to surface. First of all, I have to say I am loving this car for every penny it's worth and I panic every time anything goes wrong.
Stuff deleted ...
is there anyone able to lecture me on the whole alternator thing and how it works and for a new 2nd hand buyer, what precautions should I take into consideration to further extend this car's life?
Thank you so much in advance, and I hope to hear from you experts soon!
From a "avoiding future headaches" standpoint, here is my advice:
1. Regular maintenance, and don't go cheap, which means no Canadian Tire parts
There is no need to exceed the manufacturer's maintenance schedule unless it makes you feel better, but as the other poster with the bad grammar mentioned, going with a synthetic oil can't hurt.2. If you have an automatic transmission model, get your electronic motor mounts disconnected by pulling the plug. When they fail the ECU goes with it, and those are pretty expensive to replace (or you need to be a pro with a soldering iron to fix it).
3. Don't exert excessive force on the parking brake, because this will bend something in the rear calipers causing them to stick. You'll know they're sticking when you're only getting 400 km from a tank where you normally got 600 km from a tank of gas, the car drives weirdly sluggish, and the rear wheels get really, really warm.
4. There are a couple of other circuits from the ECU (the car computer) that don't have fuse protection that should have them, like the motor mounts; the IACV (idle air control valve) is another. If you get a "check engine light" on your car, drop by a shop, auto parts store, or whatever, and have that code read; many will do this for free or real cheap. Anything IACV related, do not delay in getting that taken care of.
06-03-2010, 10:19 AM
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 9
Hello,
I have a 2002 Maxima SE with factory navigation. The button on the top right of the navigation unit that says "AUTO" recently broke off. I have tried pressing on different parts of the inside, but can't get the system to register that I am pressing that button. I was wondering if anyone knows if I just replace the plastic button if it should work. There doesn't appear to be any weird connection that the button would have inside that would make me unable to make it work without this plastic piece, but for whatever reason it will not register that I am pressing it. I am trying to avoid replacing the entire climate control unit and just throw a new button on. Has anyone had this problem and successfully fixed it??
Also, my driver's side power seat is messed up. I know that this is a somewhat common problem and I have the service bulletin on the issue. I feel like my problem is slightly different than what is mentioned in the bulletin. My seat will move forward or backward on only one side of the seat. The left side of the seat stays in one place and the right side moves. I removed the driver's seat (very difficult due to the fact that it was positioned in the furthest position back and the bolts are nearly impossible to remove while in this position) and looked underneath to see if there was something jammed in the left side. There are two coiled bars (one on each side) and the right one spins and pulls the seat one way or the other, but the left side does not move at all. There doesn't appear to be anything blocking the left coil from spinning, but it seems that there is only one motor underneath and since it is moving the right side I don't see how it could be broken. Is there in fact 2 motors underneath and 1 is shot, or is something in fact jamming the coil making it impossible to move? Hope this makes sense....
Lastly, I was wondering if the tail lights from the 00-01 will fit on the 02-03. Every time I look at tail lights they separate the 2, but they look like the exact same design. I hate the chrome backing on the 02-03 lights, and was wondering if I could easily swap them with the darker ones from the 01-02.
I have a 2002 Maxima SE with factory navigation. The button on the top right of the navigation unit that says "AUTO" recently broke off. I have tried pressing on different parts of the inside, but can't get the system to register that I am pressing that button. I was wondering if anyone knows if I just replace the plastic button if it should work. There doesn't appear to be any weird connection that the button would have inside that would make me unable to make it work without this plastic piece, but for whatever reason it will not register that I am pressing it. I am trying to avoid replacing the entire climate control unit and just throw a new button on. Has anyone had this problem and successfully fixed it??
Also, my driver's side power seat is messed up. I know that this is a somewhat common problem and I have the service bulletin on the issue. I feel like my problem is slightly different than what is mentioned in the bulletin. My seat will move forward or backward on only one side of the seat. The left side of the seat stays in one place and the right side moves. I removed the driver's seat (very difficult due to the fact that it was positioned in the furthest position back and the bolts are nearly impossible to remove while in this position) and looked underneath to see if there was something jammed in the left side. There are two coiled bars (one on each side) and the right one spins and pulls the seat one way or the other, but the left side does not move at all. There doesn't appear to be anything blocking the left coil from spinning, but it seems that there is only one motor underneath and since it is moving the right side I don't see how it could be broken. Is there in fact 2 motors underneath and 1 is shot, or is something in fact jamming the coil making it impossible to move? Hope this makes sense....
Lastly, I was wondering if the tail lights from the 00-01 will fit on the 02-03. Every time I look at tail lights they separate the 2, but they look like the exact same design. I hate the chrome backing on the 02-03 lights, and was wondering if I could easily swap them with the darker ones from the 01-02.
Last edited by xTyD23x; 06-03-2010 at 10:35 AM.
06-03-2010, 03:01 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 4
Headlights - what and where to buy?
I want to replace all the headlights in my '02 SE, but I want to do it on the cheap (regular halogen, not HID). I'm going to be selling the car within the next 6 months.
What do I need to order, a pair of low beam and a pair of high beam? Or are they the same light? Does anyone have a preferred US-based online vendor for ordering this type of part?
Much thanks.
mbtc
What do I need to order, a pair of low beam and a pair of high beam? Or are they the same light? Does anyone have a preferred US-based online vendor for ordering this type of part?
Much thanks.
mbtc
06-03-2010, 04:38 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 1,767
I want to replace all the headlights in my '02 SE, but I want to do it on the cheap (regular halogen, not HID). I'm going to be selling the car within the next 6 months.
What do I need to order, a pair of low beam and a pair of high beam? Or are they the same light? Does anyone have a preferred US-based online vendor for ordering this type of part?
Much thanks.
mbtc
What do I need to order, a pair of low beam and a pair of high beam? Or are they the same light? Does anyone have a preferred US-based online vendor for ordering this type of part?
Much thanks.
mbtc
06-03-2010, 07:32 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 3
So I got it fixed for CAD$560.00
I got a new alternator as well as the alternator belt, the mechanic told me that it has worn out pretty badly. I hope no major component breakdown anytime soon, haha. But thanks for all the replies, it helps a lot
I got a new alternator as well as the alternator belt, the mechanic told me that it has worn out pretty badly. I hope no major component breakdown anytime soon, haha. But thanks for all the replies, it helps a lot
06-03-2010, 07:56 PM
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 9
I am looking at trying to install an auxiliary input on my factory navigation unit (2002 maxima). The first thing I thought of is that I have a 6 disc changer that I NEVER EVER use and would not mind swapping for an auxiliary input. Wherever the changer is wired to, could I make this an auxiliary input instead?? I was told that I can not swap the tape deck unit underneath the navigation with an aftermarket head unit and keep the stock navigation. I am looking for any way possible to add an auxiliary input so I can listen to an iPod without using a tape adapter. Also, if anyone knows a way to install a DVD player to the stock navigation screen I would love to hear that. Thanks!
06-04-2010, 06:16 AM
I want to replace all the headlights in my '02 SE, but I want to do it on the cheap (regular halogen, not HID). I'm going to be selling the car within the next 6 months.
What do I need to order, a pair of low beam and a pair of high beam? Or are they the same light? Does anyone have a preferred US-based online vendor for ordering this type of part?
Much thanks.
mbtc
What do I need to order, a pair of low beam and a pair of high beam? Or are they the same light? Does anyone have a preferred US-based online vendor for ordering this type of part?
Much thanks.
mbtc
it take way more T&E to take a back to halogen
seriously.
06-04-2010, 03:06 PM
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I didn't understand that sentence, sorry.
06-04-2010, 03:14 PM
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The reason I'm being a cheapass is because I'm not keeping the car, and given the total value of the car only an idiot would sink a lot of money into it at this point.
06-04-2010, 03:18 PM
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Posts: 4
Well after reading another post (I was reading from bottom up) I think I do understand what you meant, that it would take time and energy to go back to halogen because it would be replacing electronics.
Last edited by mbtc; 06-04-2010 at 03:21 PM.
06-04-2010, 04:36 PM
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 22
Looks like the alternator is about $200 USD. If you have a basic tool set, and look on the forums, you should try replacing it yourself. I know that you already paid for the repair, but in the future, don't assume that you have to pay someone labor to get the job done.
06-04-2010, 06:08 PM
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Location: West Haven, CT
Posts: 13
There is some potentially incorrect stuff amid the bad spelling and grammar.I'll try to dissect this before I go for another Tylenol.
1. Car cuts out and won't turn over: Most mechanics will just slap another battery in, and check to see if it charges.
2. If it cuts out again, they take a closer look at the charging system. Alternators can have intermittent failure cycles, but they are the next logical place in the chain, because it makes the electricity that charges the battery as well as the electricity to run everything else electric in the car: spark plugs, power windows, stereo, AC blower, whatever.
3. If the car dies with electrical symptoms again, well, then yeah, there is another problem, but this suddenly gets highly dependent on the circumstances. And quite frankly, fuses should be blowing somewhere.
To the other recommendations:
1. The 01 Nissan Maxima does not have a "Cap" which I presume to mean, in the context of a "tune up" to mean a "distributor cap." It has a distributor-less ignition system, common since the early 90's.
2. The VQ series of engine run platinum or iridium-type spark plugs that have a service life of 100,000 miles. If you change them every 10,000, you're wasting money, and run the risk of breaking something every time you do. So don't do that. And don't try to economize by going with the older plug types. It's not worth it.
ETA:
And NO, the battery does NOT "power the alternator."
The battery stores power to start your car, run the lights and radio or whatever. When you start your car, the battery provides power to the starter motor, which turns your engine a few times, and the battery also provides power to the fuel system, and the ignition system, which all works together to get the engine running. Once the engine is running, it turns the alternator, that now makes the electricity to recharge the battery from having started the car and run all the other electrical things in the car.
If the battery won't "hold a charge" the car generally won't start.
If the alternator no longer makes enough electricity to keep the battery charged, either because you're using too much electricity with your crazy stereo, or because it's broken, your battery will eventually be empty, and no longer able to run things like your fuel system or ignition system, and the car will stop running.
Disconnecting the battery while the car is running is generally not the right test, because some car designs require the battery to be in place for everything to work (like on late 80's Chevrolet Caprices). If that's the case it can damage the ECU, or the alternator. Charging voltage with the least and then the greatest load will give you a better idea of how healthy everything is.
06-04-2010, 07:49 PM
"intially powers" means it gives it the necessary energy to cause ignition and combustion which then leads to the alternator being run while you drive your car, it was late, i was typing in common sense as best i could...GEEZE lay off, get a life, and go drive your maxima..."before I go for another tylenol" screw you homeyclaus
silly people from CT
06-04-2010, 07:57 PM
question...
i found a thread regarding the 2k/2k3 taillight swap and they mentioned it is plug and play, how true is it? am i better off getting a 2k taillight harness? or can i truly just pull my 2k3 lights out and plug in my 2k lights? let me know thank you all..
i found a thread regarding the 2k/2k3 taillight swap and they mentioned it is plug and play, how true is it? am i better off getting a 2k taillight harness? or can i truly just pull my 2k3 lights out and plug in my 2k lights? let me know thank you all..
06-04-2010, 08:03 PM
if you get 00/01 tails and put them on your 03, you will also need the wire harness for the 00/01 tails
Last edited by SoonerFan; 06-04-2010 at 08:14 PM.
06-04-2010, 08:09 PM
sorry total noob for wiring and electric things, so i can not just plug in my 00 tails? i have to purchase the wire harness also how much would i be looking at for the wire harness?
06-04-2010, 08:17 PM
basically, the harness needs to match the lights...not the car
if you call dave B you can get them for under $100
06-05-2010, 03:00 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 20
Gurgling sound after radiator replacement
Hey guys I have a 02 SE. After I had the radiator replced I'm hearing a gurgling or churning sound when I first start the car. I can only hear it when I'm steping on the gas. After about a minute or so it will go away. Wondering what you guys think this is? Is it air in the radiator? So far I'm not having any over heating problems. (knock on wood)
Thanks
ps the radiator was done at an established radiator shop.
Thanks
ps the radiator was done at an established radiator shop.
06-05-2010, 03:56 AM
Hey guys I have a 02 SE. After I had the radiator replced I'm hearing a gurgling or churning sound when I first start the car. I can only hear it when I'm steping on the gas. After about a minute or so it will go away. Wondering what you guys think this is? Is it air in the radiator? So far I'm not having any over heating problems. (knock on wood)
Thanks
ps the radiator was done at an established radiator shop.
Thanks
ps the radiator was done at an established radiator shop.
06-05-2010, 04:06 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 20
Hey I checked my manual and it says only the 93,94 and 2000 have this valve. It does however explain how to do it by leaving the cap off. thanks again.
Last edited by islandguy; 06-06-2010 at 08:10 AM.
06-05-2010, 08:15 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 2
Ok thanks for any help in advance heres the story my girl has a 2003 max gle and the other day it was about 90 degreese out and she had the air conditioner on the car ran fine for about a half hour. once the car is stopped in traffic or just idleing it starts to get hot but not overheat, well she was in brooklyn the other day and it started to happen she went in to a meeting for about an hour and when she came back out started the car and the max didnt go past 1500 rpm and was doing about 5 mph...she took it to the nearest place she could they pulled codes p1126 and p1122 saying the throttle body was bad, fine i met her the guy seemed honest (lol) so i had him change it for a good price. so now we got a new TB the NEXT DAY same thing with the AC on luckily i was there to help her out, I watched the temp go up and then reved it up not passing 2000 rpm. so i let it cool off for about a half hour and started it up no AC and the car ran fine luckily i was able to drive home with the temp guage not even moving but the SES light came on again and I ran the codes same thing p1122 twice p1126 twice and p0507 which i know it the high rpm and can be fixed by the relearn (have done it in the past), do you think its the thermostat i am taking the car back to the guy with no money in my pocket well none for him anyway. What should i be looking to ask him?? thanks alot for any info, please help ill be taking it back to him tomorrow
Last edited by KBMax03; 06-05-2010 at 08:22 AM.
06-05-2010, 08:23 AM
Ok thanks for any help in advance heres the story my girl has a 2003 max gle and the other day it was about 90 degreese out and she had the air conditioner on the car ran fine for about a half hour. once the car is stopped in traffic or just idleing it starts to get hot but not overheat, well she was in brooklyn the other day and it started to happen she went in to a meeting for about an hour and when she came back out started the car and the max didnt go past 1500 rpm and was doing about 5 mph...she took it to the nearest place she could they pulled codes p1126 and p1122 saying the throttle body was bad, fine i met her the guy seemed honest (lol) so i had him change it for a good price. so now we got a new TB the NEXT DAY same thing with the AC on luckily i was there to help her out, I watched the temp go up and then reved it up not passing 2000 rpm. so i let it cool off for about a half hour and started it up no AC and the car ran fine luckily i was able to drive home with the temp guage not even moving, do you think its the thermostat i am taking the car back to the guy with no money in my pocket well none for him anyway. What should i be looking to ask him?? thanks alot for any info, please help ill be taking it back to him tomorrow
06-05-2010, 08:35 AM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 2
thanks alot for the quick response ok so i heard the thermostat is not hard to change on these cars, at least something isnt, i love this car it is just becoming a money pit and it seems like noone knows how to repair them.. and i wont take it to a steelership, ok so thermo or radiator clogged thanks again and congrats on the baby...
06-05-2010, 10:05 PM
thanks alot for the quick response ok so i heard the thermostat is not hard to change on these cars, at least something isnt, i love this car it is just becoming a money pit and it seems like noone knows how to repair them.. and i wont take it to a steelership, ok so thermo or radiator clogged thanks again and congrats on the baby...
