02maxdd

Hello, im new here so have a question. I want to know if there is a known way to get the haze out of my wifes daily with hids

unrealii

iTrader: (8)

I have yet to do this on my own car, but look into doing headlight restoration. It involves carefully sanding the lens, then polish afterwards.

Teddie18

iTrader: (3)

There are headlight restoration kits sold in just about every auto parts store. I even think Wal-Mart sells them. The instructions on to use them is included in the kit.

hot_wax_tree

Im not new here but new to 5.5 gen and have been searching for 20 min with no luck on comparisons between 5th and 5.5 gens

So my question is do the fogs from the 5th fit in the 5.5gen?

Jake

sonu padda

set the codes i guess

sonu padda

hi am new i maxima.org is there any body else from vancouver canada,i just got a 2k2 max and i am havin a hard time to get performance parts here. please help........

DrVenkman

Looking to get a general idea of what has gone wrong with everyone's Max and the estimated mileage it went wrong at. List the model year problem and mileage.

2000 SE 99k

Bank 1 & 2 O2 sensors - 70k
Catalytic Converter - 70k
Starter - 75k
TRANSMISSION - 80k / internal damage i forget what.
Driver's side window - 85k / has problem getting it up
Suspension - 85k / passenger side shocks were worse than the rest
Exhaust - 98k / muffler has some rot but my y-pipe has seen its end

so far i seem to have the worst luck with my maxima. I estimate major problems every damn 5k mi.

FloppyJunk

Hello,

I am having some major issues with backfiring (especially when the engine is cold) on my maxima. I have done searches to try and find out what the issue could be and have already replaced pretty much every part that users said that it could be.

I have replaced the:

Plenum Gasket
Plugs
All 02 sensors
both speed sensors

and all to no avail. Things got alot better after I replaced the trans-speed sensor (black cylindrical type) and after I replaced the 02 sensors. However, that was a short lived success and the problems soo came back. I don't have a vacuum leak that I can tell and if I do it is very small. Backfiring occurs while trying to drive the car and not when in park. Idles down like normal and everything and no check engine light. I am scratching my head here. Not sure what the deal is and any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
FloppyJunk

WildJuice

iTrader: (1)

is $550 a good price for a stillen full kit for a 01 max?

fitness stain

iTrader: (1)

finished up my coolant flush sunday evening. Used Toyota Red ...

took about 4 gallons of distilled water to flush out the old green coolant ... i have just a tad bit of the red left ... two days worth of driving should have knocked the remaining air bubbles out ... i should be able to put the last little bit of coolant in there before starting the car after work today.

Gilly

iTrader: (2)

I just bought an 02 Maxima SE 6MT and it needs new tires. I want to put 245/45/17's on it but I couldn't figure out if they would fit in the wheel well and on the stock rims. Does anyone know?

MWM

How much did the Toyota dealership charge you for the Red? I'm doing mine today and went to the local Toyota to pick some up expecting to pya less than $15, and it was $24 (for a 1 gallong jug). I was shocked, but decided to go ahead and pay.

fitness stain

iTrader: (1)

yep ... apparently the price has gone up ... haha, ****ty economy i guess?

in all the threads i read people were paying around 15 or so ...

i was kinda surprised .. but apparently its quality stuff so whatever .. my car is worth it, lol

nzelinsky

iTrader: (1)

You have to order online... they dont sell anything in Canada. You can get a lot of stuff on ebay, stillen, also check the classified and group deal/sponsor forums here have some good stuff.

sounds average. Did you compare with the stillen website?

Is this a question? In the general maxima discussion forum there is a thread for what did you do to your maxima today.

Sounds okay, but you should really check in the wheels/tires section of the forum for the best information regarding tires.

ReasonableDoubt

iTrader: (4)

Just pulled a P1165 Code from my 2000 Max SE. Yes, I know it means "Swirl Control Valve Control Vacuum Switch"... I just don't know what that is or where it's located or how to fix the problem.

I've used the search, not much info on it specially, especially not in layman's terms...

Also, my car has been having trouble starting, it delays a little before it turns over all the way to start. So I also had the battery tested and it said it's charge as low. I'm thinking it may be a problem with the alternator? Or could this be related to the Swirl Control Valve problem?

I'm a newb to Maxima's and working on cars, by myself, in general. So please help me. Thanks in advance.

speedemon247

Hai im a newbee and I have a question. I have been searching for this matter for a long time and couldnt find results. It would be very helpful if someone can suggest wats wrong with the car.

I have an 01 maxima which i have owned for over 5 years. The car has been experiencing power delay since i bought it. I have changed the maf sensor more than 3 times in 5 years. i changed a lot of stuff on that car but 97% of the stuff was covered under my extended warranty with $0 deductuble so I didnt care wat was wrong , u know as long as i dont need to pay anything and that would fix the problem it was ok with me but now my warranty expired and the problem is gettin on my nerves since i started driving more on highways. THe car is fine when driven normal but when power is needed for quick acceleration/pulling on highways it dissapoints. I mean it waits like 2 seconds and then the power starts coming. It acts like a car with turbo. specifically when the car is going 30-40mph and u step on the gas for immediate power it doesnt deliver that power until 2 seconds later by that time i already took my foot off the gas and the car just ignores my input and continues the speed i was driving. so the common problem i found was the MAF sensor but i already changed it 3 times and it hasnt solved the problem ! I use premium gas(most of the time octane #93) and Mobil 1 for oil changes. The average mileage of the car with 80% highway driving is 21mpg. Please help!

nzelinsky

iTrader: (1)

hmmm... Im not sure I think the 5g is cable throttle correct? My car has this issue with a delayed power too with drive by wire throttle. cold air intake made a difference in the throttle response was better. There is also a TSB for this, but Im not sure if it applies to your car. Do you have AT or MT???

here are the TSB's that apply to your car, I can't find anything about the problem you describe...

http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb...=2001&tsb=none

VQP0WER

The valve is near the drivers side strut tower:



Replace your battery first though.

speedemon247

Thank you nzelinsky for the response! the car is an automatic. And it uses the cable throttle. I have checked the TB's and most of the stuff that relates to this has been replaced. I wanted to put intake on the car but since it had the warranty I was hesitant to install it in case if the dealer roots the aftermarket stuff as the cause of any kind of problem. But is this problem common on maxima's?

ReasonableDoubt

iTrader: (4)

Thanks, will do!

MWM

So I'm a little stuck right now and am not sure what to do. I've got several annoing suspension sounds, so I'm trying to do the standard things myself to fix (sway bar links, bushings, already has new bearings and ball joints). The problem is that nut that attaches to the LCA is so rusted together that I can't get it off. The nut is 14MM and the bolt end is 15MM. I can turn them together all day long, but the wrench on the bolt end will not stay. The bolt slips no matter what I do. I'm not sure if there's a tool out there that can help. I'd love to get some help on this.

nzelinsky

iTrader: (1)

It seems to be a problem every once and while... it just depends on the car really... try doing a search in your generations section of the forum for hesitation and see what other people have experienced. When you do a search make sure you choose sort results by relevance not the date posted. Since your warranty is over I would consider doing an intake, you can do a cheap short ram off ebay and they work good. Just make sure you use a dry filter (vs. oiled filter) so you dont mess up your MAF.

You will drive yourself crazy or bankrupt if you are worried about suspension noises. Its a common problem on these cars and noises dont always mean something is wrong. Or you can just replace every little part and hope you eventually get whatever is making the noise. As for the bolt you are having trouble with... try spraying with pb blaster or wd40 and let it soak in, have you already stripped the bolt? if so its time for vice grips and heat it up with a torch.

MWM

Probably good advice on the suspension. I don't think anything is wrong necessarily, but just about everything looks to be the original, so it's probably not a bad thing to replace thinkgs such as links and bushings. The frustrating part to me is that is didn't make a sound very recently. One of the bearings went, so I had that replaced (didn't feel like donig that one myself). It was great for about a day, but the ball joint went (same side as the new bearing) the following day. It was obviosly the joint. I was heading back home for the weekend, so had my uncle's mechanic just replace both bal joints as he always does work for the cost of the parts. The ball joint sound was gone, but it's now creaking, squeaking, with the occasional clunk. It's making several sounds at different times. It was all fine until the bearing went. Once the suspensions started getting messed with, it's been downhill since. But I do live in Minnesota, so everything down there is just a rusted mess.

BTW, I soaked with PB blaster several days ahead of time, and a couple of hours before as well. I'm probably just going to try to cut it off if I can.

fitness stain

iTrader: (1)

Ok .. how's this for a question...

The "****" for the air temperature control slider has popped out ...
I'm referring to the "****" that lights up and is a rectangle ...

It came loose/popped out. The actual "****" still has two little pieces of metal coming out so i assume i would be able to reattach it, but i'm not sure of the best method to do so ... has anyone else had this problem? I should have attempted to fix it when i had the actual climate portion out of the car during the stereo install ...

would it be easier to remove the whole unit and take it apart or should i just get some adhesive and shove the bastard back in there? (doesnt seem like the best idea)

MWM

I took all the rubber stuff off the current endlink and I realized all I was doing is turning the ball itself. The wrench was actually holding the bolt in place and the screw was turning through it, but the nut was loosening because the ball inside the endlink was turning, so the bolt is just stripped. So I'm just going to have to cut it out.

The6spdMax

iTrader: (23)

If the button still work after the putting the adhesive then I will go for it. I don't have that button in my car so I don't have to worry if its broken.

VQP0WER

Super glue. This won't interfere with putting in stereo because that whole assembly, along with the trim comes out as a whole.

fitness stain

iTrader: (1)

nah i've already got the stereo installed .. what i meant was that i should have repaired this issue when i had the actual climate control "hardware" thats under the radio removed...


this button is backlit though ... are the two metal prongs the part that conducts the power to the light in the button (if there is one) ??

would the superglue inhibit that?

thanks for the response btw

autobrazil

I am changing my left lower control arm and I can not remove the bolt that holds the ball joint. I already stripped it a little. I am trying to remove the spindle to put it on the floor. I disconnected the brake line and there is another one that I do not know what it is, and I can not remove it. Any help would be appreciated

autobrazil

I was able to get it out. My dad helped me out, and we did not need to remove the last hose. We used a breaker and after 2 hours it finally came out lol.

spanishmami

I just bought a 2001 Maxima 20th anniversary Edition about a month ago. I love this car....It's a nice dark blue and a 5speed. Every so often when I start it the car it will not start and the ignition sounds like its grinding/or cranking. This happens about 10% of the time and is very embarrassing. Can anybody help me find out why this is happening?

fitness stain

iTrader: (1)

starter?

MWM

I have question for any cooling system experts. I just did a full radiator flush and refill with the Toyota Red antifreeze (flushed out with distilled water until nothing but clear water came out). It's still ocassionally running slightly higher than normal and every once in a while with the AC on it starts to overheat. It's most likely a clogged radiator, although I'm going to swap out the thermostat tomorrow just in case.

I'm also going to clean the radiator really well before I replace it. My question is can I resuse the coolant I drain out to refill once I put the radiator back on? It's brand new and I hate to go pay $24 for another gallon of antifreeze if I don't have to.

nzelinsky

iTrader: (1)

Dont quote me on this because Im not 100% but I dont see any reason you couldnt reuse it... Its not like its going to be contaminated or anything. BTW my car seems to run hot too. It doesnt overheat or go too high on the gauge but when I pop the hood it is like an oven. It takes forever to cool down too.

Nelsito65

I would say you can reuse it if you don't see any signs of contamination. I just went through some overheating issues with my car. Started by replacing thermostat, then radiator and finally water pump, which turned out to be the main cause of the problem. Take a look at the thread here. Did your car overheat before the flush? How was the fluid looking when you flushed it? Was it clear or full of contaminants? BTW, I used Prestone 50/50 mix. In my opinion, there's nothing wrong in using that; it's silicate, phosphate, borate and nitrite free.

Edit: Also check that your fans are operating properly and make sure that you bleed the air out of your system after refilling.

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

They're not a direct fit, no. the 5.0 and 5.5 gens have different bumpers and different mounting points. The fogs can be fitted with some modification and ingenuity, of course. There is room for them.

most people order performance maxima parts online. there are very few actual performance shops that carry partsfor our cars, and if they do, they'll be crazy overpriced.

Most 5th gens may have a MAF go bad, or a few of the coils, right front strut, and 02 sensors. But "major" problems are fairly few. The rust-out at the muffler flange is common. Starter problems are not common. Cat problems are not particularly common. Tranny problems are not common. Window tracks should be cleaned/greased occasionally.

$550 on any kit is never a good price...go buy some decent suspension

Yes they will fit in the wheel well. BUT.....that size is not in spec for our OEM 7" wide rims and could be dangerous, not to mention that width on such a narrow rim will result in sloppy handling. Hell, i was running 235s on an 8" wide rim. Stick with 225/50/17, 235/45/17 is the max width you should go on stock rims,and it is not suggested. If you wnt 245s, get some 8" wide rims.

This is completely and entirely wrong. A correctly maintained suspension (especially stock) should make no "noises." It's a common problem because thre are alot of morons out there who don't do maintenance, replace parts when they wear out, or install aftermarket suspension parts incorrectly (or buy lousy a/m parts).

150k miles on mine using multiple different suspension setups and I did not often have noises, unless a part needed replacing (e.g. swaybar endlink, or strut).

NOISES DO MEAN SOMETHING IS WRONG.

QNO_A32

iTrader: (7)

can i just take the elbow off to change the middle rear plug?

MWM

Yeah, I had read your thread very thoroughly and it was very helpful. I actually copied and pasted some of the dialogue into my own file for me to reference. The fluid I drained actually looked pretty good, but it was about time to change it anyway, so I decided to do it. Yes, I did bleed the air out too.

And yes, it was overheating before the flush a couple of times. Actually, it only started to overheat a couple of times. Mostly, I noticed it was running at a slightly higher temp than it always has. And then it did start to approach overheat twice with the AC on. But it's intermittent. Sometimes I can drive 30 miles on the freeway with the AC full blast and it's fine. Other times it runs a little warmer.

The fans are running, but I do not know if they're running "correctly" nor do I know how to tell. The first time I noticed any of this was a couple of days after a 1500 mile trip. There were more bugs than usual on my windshield and grill, so I wouldn't be surprised if the rad is just blocked. I'm going to drain it and watch for the consistency of the flow to check for blockage. I'm then going to take it off and pressure wash it out and clean it out well. I'm also changing the thermostat (went ahead and ordered from Dave B when I ordered my valve covers) just in case. If it continues to do the same thing, I'll just get a new rad for $100. After that, I'll then look at water pump.

As for the antifreeze, for something I'm only going to do once every year or two, I'd rather spend the extra cash and get the good stuff. So I don't mind paying for the Red. I also added water wetter.

MWM

Good to know. The car is an '02 and has 136k on it and most of the suspension looks to be the original. I bought the car (my third Maxima, BTW) with 122k on it from a guy I know who takes good care of his cars, but I don't think he did any suspension replacements.

I've since learned that my experience with the suspension is very common here in Minnesota with any car. If it's more than a few years old, any time you have to go into the suspension or steering, there's a good chance it's going to lead to more things going bad due to the amount of rust and corrosion caused by all the salt and snow and extreme cold temps. Everything was quiet as a mouse until one of the wheel bearings went. I was going to do that one myself but everything was so rusted together that I ran out of time before leaving on my trip, so I took it in to get the bearing swapped out. Then I heard what was clearly a ball joint the day after. Had that one done through a family mechanic who swapped both out. That's when all the squeaking and creaking started.

I've replaced the sway bar endlinks with the Moog ones which has helped a little. I've also ordered some ES sb bushings I'm going to put in next week. I'm going to pick up some moog tie rod ends to put on when I do the bushings. At that point I'll have new ball joint, endlinks, tie rod ends, and sb bushings. Hopefully that will take care of it in the short-term because I've put some money into the car recently and I'd like to space some of this stuff out. I figure struts, coils, and mounts are inevitable, but I'd like to wait a few months for that if I can. It's also got a constant squeak on the left side although it's not real loud. I figure the hub might also need replacing as I didn't do that when I had the bearing replaced. But I'd like to avoid an entire LCA if I can as that's more than I want to take on and that would be a costly one to have a mechanic do.

But I got the car for $6000 and it was in great shape, so putting a little money in it to update the suspension is not overly burdensome.

BTW irish, I've read a lot of your stuff on this site. I can't begin to tell you how unbelievable finding this site has been and how much I've learned from the ungodly amount of hours I've spent on here over the past month or two. I will definitely be making a donation in short order. I've never been a full blown DIY guy, but I'm really enjoying the work I'm doing now and thanks to the org taking care of this car is becoming a new hobby and I'm so much more equipped and less intimidated to do work myself that probably just wouldn't get done due to cost. My Max thanks this place as well.

MWM

May as well ask this since we're talking about my suspension. One thing I've also noticed the last couple of times I've jacked it up is that I'm getting to the same height on my jack and jack stands, but that same height is no longer enough to life my tires completely off the ground. I have to go even higher and can now barely get there with the hydraulic jack I have. Is this symptomatic of coils needing replaced?