5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
Hi. I just bought 2000 Maxima SE (AT), 105k on it. So far, I love this car, and want to keep my love to it.
I read numerous posts about common problems of 5th Max; ignition coils, MAF sensor, TPS (Throttle position sensor) and IACV-AAC (Idle control valve).
The previous owner replace all 6 coils. MAF sensor it not a hard job and and not that expensive. TPS, I don't know about this very well.
IACV problem is the one that I don't want to see on my car. Especially bad IACV (P0505) most likely will fry the ECU and break my wallet.
Do you think it is a good idea to replace IACV before problem happens? Changing IACV will lead me to another problem (ie. idle relearn process)?
How common is the IACV problem? Does it worth changing before the problem happens or do I worry too much?
I read numerous posts about common problems of 5th Max; ignition coils, MAF sensor, TPS (Throttle position sensor) and IACV-AAC (Idle control valve).
The previous owner replace all 6 coils. MAF sensor it not a hard job and and not that expensive. TPS, I don't know about this very well.
IACV problem is the one that I don't want to see on my car. Especially bad IACV (P0505) most likely will fry the ECU and break my wallet.
Do you think it is a good idea to replace IACV before problem happens? Changing IACV will lead me to another problem (ie. idle relearn process)?
How common is the IACV problem? Does it worth changing before the problem happens or do I worry too much?
I have a 2000 with an AC leak that is hidden and dont know where to look. AC always worked fine then the car sat for a year and now AC is done. It can hold pressure for about 5 days; I tried the dye twice and couldnt find anything. Any thoughts? Also I put in a new battery and sunroof wont open anymore; any help would be appreciated.
Newbie Needs Help w/ Bucking/Jerking
I'm new, so excuse me if I've posted this incorrectly. I've vetted your whole site, but cannot find an exact match to my problem(s). I have a 2002 SE (Automatic trans) that I just completed replacing the spark plugs on (108k miles). Recall, my model requires removal of the intake manifold to access 2 of the back 3 plugs, so sensors had to be unplugged, a small coolant-filled line disconnected, and vacuum lines that had to be removed/reinstalled.
Upon reassembly, the car ran great, but then the Service Engine Soon (SES) light came on! I've double-checked all hose connections and electrical connections, and they're fine. In a move I now realize from this forum was stupid, I "nudged" the throttle butterfly ~1/16" w/ my finger while it was apart. Other than that, NOTHING was disturbed.
Suddenly, when I next drove the car, it bucked HARD, to the point that the car's barely driveable, and I'm worried about damaging the vehicle. Following info from this forum, I reset the ECM, which killed the SES and the car ran great...AT FIRST. Then, it started the hard bucking again, and the SES returned. I also did the "relearning" procedures on this forum, to no avail. Oddly, it seems to alternate between running fine, shutting down, then the next time I drive it, it's back to the buckin' bronco thing. I've got a code scanner on order, but the shipping's been delayed and this is my ONLY CAR. Note that, unlike many others, my idle speed is stable and good, as it's always been.
Does anyone have any idea what's going on here? Any help would be appreciated.
Upon reassembly, the car ran great, but then the Service Engine Soon (SES) light came on! I've double-checked all hose connections and electrical connections, and they're fine. In a move I now realize from this forum was stupid, I "nudged" the throttle butterfly ~1/16" w/ my finger while it was apart. Other than that, NOTHING was disturbed.
Suddenly, when I next drove the car, it bucked HARD, to the point that the car's barely driveable, and I'm worried about damaging the vehicle. Following info from this forum, I reset the ECM, which killed the SES and the car ran great...AT FIRST. Then, it started the hard bucking again, and the SES returned. I also did the "relearning" procedures on this forum, to no avail. Oddly, it seems to alternate between running fine, shutting down, then the next time I drive it, it's back to the buckin' bronco thing. I've got a code scanner on order, but the shipping's been delayed and this is my ONLY CAR. Note that, unlike many others, my idle speed is stable and good, as it's always been.
Does anyone have any idea what's going on here? Any help would be appreciated.
Last edited by prizmeye; 08-12-2010 at 11:23 AM. Reason: Added detail
I'm new, so excuse me if I've posted this incorrectly. I've vetted your whole site, but cannot find an exact match to my problem(s). I have a 2002 SE (Automatic trans) that I just completed replacing the spark plugs on (108k miles). Recall, my model requires removal of the intake manifold to access 2 of the back 3 plugs, so sensors had to be unplugged, a small coolant-filled line disconnected, and vacuum lines that had to be removed/reinstalled.
Upon reassembly, the car ran great, but then the Service Engine Soon (SES) light came on! I've double-checked all hose connections and electrical connections, and they're fine. In a move I now realize from this forum was stupid, I "nudged" the throttle butterfly ~1/16" w/ my finger while it was apart. Other than that, NOTHING was disturbed.
Suddenly, when I next drove the car, it bucked HARD, to the point that the car's barely driveable, and I'm worried about damaging the vehicle. Following info from this forum, I reset the ECM, which killed the SES and the car ran great...AT FIRST. Then, it started the hard bucking again, and the SES returned. I also did the "relearning" procedures on this forum, to no avail. Oddly, it seems to alternate between running fine, shutting down, then the next time I drive it, it's back to the buckin' bronco thing. I've got a code scanner on order, but the shipping's been delayed and this is my ONLY CAR. Note that, unlike many others, my idle speed is stable and good, as it's always been.
Does anyone have any idea what's going on here? Any help would be appreciated.
Upon reassembly, the car ran great, but then the Service Engine Soon (SES) light came on! I've double-checked all hose connections and electrical connections, and they're fine. In a move I now realize from this forum was stupid, I "nudged" the throttle butterfly ~1/16" w/ my finger while it was apart. Other than that, NOTHING was disturbed.
Suddenly, when I next drove the car, it bucked HARD, to the point that the car's barely driveable, and I'm worried about damaging the vehicle. Following info from this forum, I reset the ECM, which killed the SES and the car ran great...AT FIRST. Then, it started the hard bucking again, and the SES returned. I also did the "relearning" procedures on this forum, to no avail. Oddly, it seems to alternate between running fine, shutting down, then the next time I drive it, it's back to the buckin' bronco thing. I've got a code scanner on order, but the shipping's been delayed and this is my ONLY CAR. Note that, unlike many others, my idle speed is stable and good, as it's always been.
Does anyone have any idea what's going on here? Any help would be appreciated.
Also make sure when perform said relearn procedure, etc, that the car is up to operating temperature, or else it wont work.
Update on Bucking Issue
In the meantime (still don't have a scanner), I used the old-fashioned "flash-counting" method. Kinda hard to follow, but I repeated it over & over, and I seem to get 0340 and 0345 (The zeroes denoted by 10 flashes each). If that's correct, the indication is for the Camshaft Position Sensors, Banks 1 & 2. I don't get how that has anything to do w/ my spark plug replacement job, and the fact that it started w/ the SES light RIGHT AFTER the plug job (which includes Remove/reinstall intake manifold) suggests it may be an erroneous set of codes? Anyone have any ideas?
I'm picking up my '00 SE 5spd this evening and would like to change out the stock heavy rims at some point down the road, retaining the stockers for the winter. I picked out some rims online, Motegi SP10 Hyper Black 17x7s with the 5x114 bolt pattern and 40mm offset, these should basically be direct replacements for the factory wheels. My question is that when I go to pick out tires for these wheels they recommend 215/50/17 instead of the usual 225/50/17. My limited understanding of wheels & tires leads me to believe that 225s should work just fine (and even 235s or possibly 245s) but I just wanted to check here first.
I'm searching on tirerack, btw. These rims are 17 lbs so I figure that's pretty decent weight savings over stock and they also look pretty good IMHO. Also, looking at the Continental ExtremeContact DW tires but if someone has a better recommendation I'm open to it.
Thanks
I'm searching on tirerack, btw. These rims are 17 lbs so I figure that's pretty decent weight savings over stock and they also look pretty good IMHO. Also, looking at the Continental ExtremeContact DW tires but if someone has a better recommendation I'm open to it.
Thanks
Last edited by shaidarharan; 08-13-2010 at 09:39 AM.
Thanks its it install , havent really noticed any difference except for a better tone.
Ok so i have the stock bose system in my 2k2, and i am not looking for anything more powerful. I want to dynamat the rear dash where the sub is mounted because i heard it makes a huge difference. People say they also notice when they dynamat the whole trunk, but since I dont have a bigger sub in trunk will it make a difference? If it doesnt where would be a good place for it.
Ok so i have the stock bose system in my 2k2, and i am not looking for anything more powerful. I want to dynamat the rear dash where the sub is mounted because i heard it makes a huge difference. People say they also notice when they dynamat the whole trunk, but since I dont have a bigger sub in trunk will it make a difference? If it doesnt where would be a good place for it.
It will of course help keep the sound contained if you dynamat the trunk... but with just the Bose sub, I wouldn't even bother doing the trunk. Definitely do the rear dash though. But, a word of caution. I dynamatted the rear dash and still had rattling... perhaps I didn't do it as good as I could have. Anyway, I have an Infinity Basslink in the trunk, so I just took the Bose sub right out and left a hole there (with the cover on of course, so you cant see the hole) for the Infinity's sound to come through. If you don't mind spending a couple hundred dollars, I'd recommend getting the Basslink. It's a sub and amp all in one... and a very good price. Not the most powerful sub or anything, but it's got more kick than the crappy stock Bose sub... plus, by having it in the trunk, your rear dash won't rattle. Just a suggestion.
BUT yeah that looks like a pretty good deal. Where did u get yours from. And do you have an after market deck or the stock bose one. Since its infinity im guessing its hooked up to ur stock deck.
Also if you dont mind me asking, how did u get ur gauge cluster to look so good. Is it just many leds?
Last edited by djshwini; 08-14-2010 at 03:18 AM.
2k max rusty rad supp problem....
My 2k max has a rusted out lower rad support. Im doing an online search so i can find the replacement part or parts i need and i come across a "plastic radiator support". the website was www.carjunky.com and the radiator support was described as the material being plastic? anybody ever heard of a plastic nissan radiator support for a 2k max?
My 2k max has a rusted out lower rad support. Im doing an online search so i can find the replacement part or parts i need and i come across a "plastic radiator support". the website was www.carjunky.com and the radiator support was described as the material being plastic? anybody ever heard of a plastic nissan radiator support for a 2k max?
Slow Down!
In all your excitement, you're confusing the CRANKSHAFT position sensor with the TWO CAMSHAFT position sensorS. What you changed is the CAMSHAFT one, but you said your diagnosis pointed to the CRANKSHAFT one. Please post a clarification. The crank one's under the engine, whereas the camshaft ones are on the ends of the heads (top of engine area)....
HELP!!! Car Barely Driveable Now!!!
In the meantime (still don't have a scanner), I used the old-fashioned "flash-counting" method. Kinda hard to follow, but I repeated it over & over, and I seem to get 0340 and 0345 (The zeroes denoted by 10 flashes each). If that's correct, the indication is for the Camshaft Position Sensors, Banks 1 & 2. I don't get how that has anything to do w/ my spark plug replacement job, and the fact that it started w/ the SES light RIGHT AFTER the plug job (which includes Remove/reinstall intake manifold) suggests it may be an erroneous set of codes? Anyone have any ideas?
Can i hook a basslink or basslink ii up to my bose HU? Whenever people talk about it in post, they never state whether or not they are using an aftermarket deck or ut the stock HU. And on amazon they are selling the basslink for 184 and the basslink ii for 250. Is the basslink worth the difference.
Last edited by djshwini; 08-14-2010 at 11:53 PM.
Ok so i want to get rid of the sh!ty fog halogen lights that are in the max but i dont want to spend the $ and go through the hassle of HID. So I have a couple of options. There is a brand called Halo on amazon and are selling a pair of h3's for around 20. Has anyone had experience with these? and also there is the PIAA alternative. On amazon, the price goes anywhere from 42-around 60 for the "super plasma." I tired googling it but didnt come up with great results, anyone have pics of these on their car? anything helps.
Ok so i want to get rid of the sh!ty fog halogen lights that are in the max but i dont want to spend the $ and go through the hassle of HID. So I have a couple of options. There is a brand called Halo on amazon and are selling a pair of h3's for around 20. Has anyone had experience with these? and also there is the PIAA alternative. On amazon, the price goes anywhere from 42-around 60 for the "super plasma." I tired googling it but didnt come up with great results, anyone have pics of these on their car? anything helps.
I have a 02 GLE and shift **** comes off when u twist it counter clockwise so I think it should be the same for the SE? Yours might be just a bit tight but try this.
I'm picking up my '00 SE 5spd this evening and would like to change out the stock heavy rims at some point down the road, retaining the stockers for the winter. I picked out some rims online, Motegi SP10 Hyper Black 17x7s with the 5x114 bolt pattern and 40mm offset, these should basically be direct replacements for the factory wheels. My question is that when I go to pick out tires for these wheels they recommend 215/50/17 instead of the usual 225/50/17. My limited understanding of wheels & tires leads me to believe that 225s should work just fine (and even 235s or possibly 245s) but I just wanted to check here first.
I'm searching on tirerack, btw. These rims are 17 lbs so I figure that's pretty decent weight savings over stock and they also look pretty good IMHO. Also, looking at the Continental ExtremeContact DW tires but if someone has a better recommendation I'm open to it.
Thanks
I'm searching on tirerack, btw. These rims are 17 lbs so I figure that's pretty decent weight savings over stock and they also look pretty good IMHO. Also, looking at the Continental ExtremeContact DW tires but if someone has a better recommendation I'm open to it.
Thanks
I would not try and plant a 245 tire on a 7" wheel. The sidewalls will want to be bursting. Now, a 7.5-8" wheel would handle 245's better. As far as tires go, I have no idea. They have so many different types that I do not even try to keep up with them.
IMO, it would look far better with a +30 and 8" wide, that's just my opinion though.
If the dimensions of the rims match what's in the owner's manual, then using the tire size listed in the owner's manual will be fine 99% of the time, unless the rim is so light it can't take the weight or rotating mass, which is unlikely.
If you're going away from the standard sizes listed in the manuals, you need to to do the math, or try them on and see if they fit, rub, or don't ride right.
If you're going away from the standard sizes listed in the manuals, you need to to do the math, or try them on and see if they fit, rub, or don't ride right.
Quick question about a knock sensor replacement. As some of you know, I've been struggling with a loss of low RPM power in my 2000 SE. I've been dealing with codes one by one. First it was a P0430 code, and I replaced a precat that was bad. I also replaced all of the plugs with iridiums. This weekend, I tore it apart and cleaned the TB and replaced the KS (I had it at the dealer after the precat replacement and they told me there was a P0325 code and that the KS wasn't providing any feedback -- that it was dead).
So my quick question is: Now that the KS has been replaced, do I need a reprogram? Cleaning the TB has improved performance slightly, but how do I clear the P0325 code or let the ECU know to look for feedback from the KS?
So my quick question is: Now that the KS has been replaced, do I need a reprogram? Cleaning the TB has improved performance slightly, but how do I clear the P0325 code or let the ECU know to look for feedback from the KS?
Quick question about a knock sensor replacement. As some of you know, I've been struggling with a loss of low RPM power in my 2000 SE. I've been dealing with codes one by one. First it was a P0430 code, and I replaced a precat that was bad. I also replaced all of the plugs with iridiums. This weekend, I tore it apart and cleaned the TB and replaced the KS (I had it at the dealer after the precat replacement and they told me there was a P0325 code and that the KS wasn't providing any feedback -- that it was dead).
So my quick question is: Now that the KS has been replaced, do I need a reprogram? Cleaning the TB has improved performance slightly, but how do I clear the P0325 code or let the ECU know to look for feedback from the KS?
So my quick question is: Now that the KS has been replaced, do I need a reprogram? Cleaning the TB has improved performance slightly, but how do I clear the P0325 code or let the ECU know to look for feedback from the KS?
The basic symptom is that I get very little response until the RPMs hit about 2800. Below that, it really doesn't matter how much I punch it, I get nothing. From what I've read here and other places, KS was a likely suspect, as well as MAF.
So, here's a MAF question. I've read that when the MAF is replaced, ECU needs to be reprogrammed or reset. If the old MAF was bad and I dropped a new one in, would I see immediate results, or would a reset or reprogram have to occur?
Well, then that's disturbing. I was hoping replacing the KS would be the solution to my lack of low RPM performance. If the KS has been replaced and is reporting properly, then it's obviously not the culprit. So the question is, what to look at next.
The basic symptom is that I get very little response until the RPMs hit about 2800. Below that, it really doesn't matter how much I punch it, I get nothing. From what I've read here and other places, KS was a likely suspect, as well as MAF.
So, here's a MAF question. I've read that when the MAF is replaced, ECU needs to be reprogrammed or reset. If the old MAF was bad and I dropped a new one in, would I see immediate results, or would a reset or reprogram have to occur?
The basic symptom is that I get very little response until the RPMs hit about 2800. Below that, it really doesn't matter how much I punch it, I get nothing. From what I've read here and other places, KS was a likely suspect, as well as MAF.
So, here's a MAF question. I've read that when the MAF is replaced, ECU needs to be reprogrammed or reset. If the old MAF was bad and I dropped a new one in, would I see immediate results, or would a reset or reprogram have to occur?
I have a P0140, and I was planning on getting this to replace the sensor:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OXYGE...Q5fAccessories
It's Bank 1, Sensor 2. Does anyone see any problems with this? I'm willing to try the universal sensors. Thanks.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OXYGE...Q5fAccessories
It's Bank 1, Sensor 2. Does anyone see any problems with this? I'm willing to try the universal sensors. Thanks.
Originally Posted by etrmk
Hi,
Some time ago, my a/c got hot and then I finally just guessed that it was lack of refrigerant, so I got one of those recharge cans, fit it onto the "L" cap, but the pressure said that it had enough refrigerant and none would pump into the car.
Above, I read this:
I turned my car to accessory (first turn), but my a/c won't come on until I turn the key one more time to "on". Even then, my car isn't on, so I can't check idle! When I turn my a/c on, the air just comes out. I don't hear anything switch on under the hood, nor do I see the compressor belt turning.
To be honest, when I bought this car, I've never been able to turn on the a/c without the key being at least at the "on" position. 1) Is that a problem with my car? 2) Since I couldn't put refrigerant in it, I wanted to know if it could be my compressor, and how would I know? What are your best practices for this? I have the FSM, but, I wanted to get expert opinions first. Thank you.
Some time ago, my a/c got hot and then I finally just guessed that it was lack of refrigerant, so I got one of those recharge cans, fit it onto the "L" cap, but the pressure said that it had enough refrigerant and none would pump into the car.
Above, I read this:
turn your car to accessory and turn the AC on cold and listen to hear if the car drops in idle and the compressor kicks on.. its very possible the compressor went bad..
To be honest, when I bought this car, I've never been able to turn on the a/c without the key being at least at the "on" position. 1) Is that a problem with my car? 2) Since I couldn't put refrigerant in it, I wanted to know if it could be my compressor, and how would I know? What are your best practices for this? I have the FSM, but, I wanted to get expert opinions first. Thank you.
Last edited by NmexMAX; 08-16-2010 at 10:41 AM.
Oh, Why Not? ;o)
Quick question about a knock sensor replacement. As some of you know, I've been struggling with a loss of low RPM power in my 2000 SE. I've been dealing with codes one by one. First it was a P0430 code, and I replaced a precat that was bad. I also replaced all of the plugs with iridiums. This weekend, I tore it apart and cleaned the TB and replaced the KS (I had it at the dealer after the precat replacement and they told me there was a P0325 code and that the KS wasn't providing any feedback -- that it was dead).
So my quick question is: Now that the KS has been replaced, do I need a reprogram? Cleaning the TB has improved performance slightly, but how do I clear the P0325 code or let the ECU know to look for feedback from the KS?
So my quick question is: Now that the KS has been replaced, do I need a reprogram? Cleaning the TB has improved performance slightly, but how do I clear the P0325 code or let the ECU know to look for feedback from the KS?
Check Camshaft Position Sensors
Well, then that's disturbing. I was hoping replacing the KS would be the solution to my lack of low RPM performance. If the KS has been replaced and is reporting properly, then it's obviously not the culprit. So the question is, what to look at next.
The basic symptom is that I get very little response until the RPMs hit about 2800. Below that, it really doesn't matter how much I punch it, I get nothing. From what I've read here and other places, KS was a likely suspect, as well as MAF.
So, here's a MAF question. I've read that when the MAF is replaced, ECU needs to be reprogrammed or reset. If the old MAF was bad and I dropped a new one in, would I see immediate results, or would a reset or reprogram have to occur?
The basic symptom is that I get very little response until the RPMs hit about 2800. Below that, it really doesn't matter how much I punch it, I get nothing. From what I've read here and other places, KS was a likely suspect, as well as MAF.
So, here's a MAF question. I've read that when the MAF is replaced, ECU needs to be reprogrammed or reset. If the old MAF was bad and I dropped a new one in, would I see immediate results, or would a reset or reprogram have to occur?