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5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread

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Old 05-19-2010, 11:07 AM
  #10681  
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Originally Posted by nespino
2001 maxima transmission slippage when I run around town. RPMs go down, push throttle, revs up but car does not move. Check engine light came on, indicated transmission. Dealer says they check it and nothing wrong. Does anyone have any ideas on what it could be? change tranny oil, filters, etc? Any guidance would be appreciated.
If you know the actual code that was pulled when the engine light came on, do share it with us. (It's usually the letter "P" followed by four digits). If you don't, then you might want to get that piece of information. Some auto part stores, and some service shops, offer that service for free.
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Old 05-19-2010, 05:36 PM
  #10682  
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just bought a 2002 maxima SE

I can tell the battery in the standard viper remote is going bad. When I went to take it apart I noticed that the circuit board doesn't come off easily (or at all) to access the battery. So what's the process to replace the battery?

(And yes I did search, to no avail)

Thanks!
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Old 05-19-2010, 08:19 PM
  #10683  
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does anybody know where I can get eyelids for my 00 maxima? I don't want the ones that look like they do no difference... I want to ones that are low. i'm talking.. low
-_-
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Old 05-20-2010, 07:39 AM
  #10684  
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Originally Posted by mdrache

SNIP!

P0115 Coolant Temperature Sensor
p0138 Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2 (Circuit high voltage)
p0139 Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2 (Circuit slow response)
p0140 Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2 (Circuit condition)
p0158 Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 2 Sensor 2 (Circuit high voltage)

I bought another CTS and will change it tonight, but I'm wondering whether the thermal transmitter should be changed as well.

Also, I've read different opinions on whether the ECM should be flashed after MAF is changed or whether it's enough to disconnect the battery for half an hour.

Any opinions are truly appreciated.
You're doing the right thing. You should not have to reflash the ECU, even if there is such a procedure. You shouldn't even have to do a idle relearn, although some do, and if you're still having idle problems, it would not make that worse.

If the temp sensor code clears, and the O2 sensor codes persist, that combination of codes leads to the conclusion that there is a circuit problem. I'd make sure the cables aren't pinched and that the connection is sound before replacing those.
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Old 05-20-2010, 12:10 PM
  #10685  
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ok so im obviously new here, a noob i guess u would call it. ive got an 03 se/te 6spd pearl white maxima. ive recently purchased a berk intake w/apexi filter, nwp vias delete/block plate, and in the mail as we speak is the nwp intake manifold spacers. just trying to get all the intake stuff out of the way first. starting at the front of the car and making my way backwards soon with headers, test pipe and catback. the intake stuff is off the car so bone stock is how it sits. ooooo almost forgot, d2 coilovers get in in about 10 days ))))). question, im planning on running a 75shot later on down the line, clutch kit recommendations please! any input is appreciated
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Old 05-20-2010, 09:16 PM
  #10686  
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I need help taking my headlight housing out of my 00 maxima.. help please
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Old 05-21-2010, 12:25 AM
  #10687  
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This is the thread I was looking for!

I'm new to this forum, but not new to the internet.. or forums in general, so don't judge so much by the post count.

Just recently purchased a 2000 Maxima SE automatic with 128k on the odometer. I've started fresh by flushing the transmission/coolant/brake/ and power steering. Check engine light has already come on (within a week). Says it's a slow responding O2 sensor in 2nd bank.. I'm gonna let it go for now, I doubt it's a major problem. Anyways...

I'm looking to wake it up a bit by adding a chip, exhaust system, and intake. I'd want the exhaust note to be more on the subtle side. Suggestions for all of the above would be AWESOME!! ...it'll save me a TON of time searching through endless pages or forum.

Is a chip from Performance Chip Direct worth anything?

Thanks again for you time!
I'll probably end up hanging around here as long as I have my Maxima
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Old 05-21-2010, 01:12 AM
  #10688  
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Originally Posted by ArchStone
Is a chip from Performance Chip Direct worth anything?
welcome...a "chip" is pointless on our cars
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Old 05-21-2010, 06:15 AM
  #10689  
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Originally Posted by SoonerFan
welcome...a "chip" is pointless on our cars
Unless it's a reprogram by TS.

http://www.technosquareinc.com/maxima.htm
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Old 05-21-2010, 08:40 AM
  #10690  
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Originally Posted by ArchStone
I'm looking to wake it up a bit by adding a chip, exhaust system, and intake. I'd want the exhaust note to be more on the subtle side. Suggestions for all of the above would be AWESOME!! ...it'll save me a TON of time searching through endless pages or forum.
Welcome aboard.

In both the exhaust section as well as some threads on the 5 gen forum, members post both pictures and sound clips of their Maximas with their exhaust system specs. That should give you a starting point.

As others noted, a chip isn't worth it on a Max. It gets you a whole lot of headache with less performance gains than intake and exhaust mods for most applications.
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Old 05-21-2010, 08:51 AM
  #10691  
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Originally Posted by homeyclaus

As others noted, a chip isn't worth it on a Max. It gets you a whole lot of headache with less performance gains than intake and exhaust mods for most applications.
Headache? Explain?

A chip these days could be a # of things. A TS ECU is a good mod.
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Old 05-21-2010, 09:27 AM
  #10692  
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im working on my 15 posts ,not a big fan of that rule whats so ever.
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Old 05-21-2010, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by matek07x
im working on my 15 posts ,not a big fan of that rule whats so ever.
That was useful ...


I bet we wont be a fan when you post something that's been answered 10e^10 times
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Old 05-21-2010, 03:24 PM
  #10694  
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Originally Posted by gwshearer
just bought a 2002 maxima SE

I can tell the battery in the standard viper remote is going bad. When I went to take it apart I noticed that the circuit board doesn't come off easily (or at all) to access the battery. So what's the process to replace the battery?

(And yes I did search, to no avail)

Thanks!
Any ideas?
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Old 05-21-2010, 11:10 PM
  #10695  
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The battery on the Viper remote?

On a Maxima forum?

Maybe Viper remote
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Old 05-21-2010, 11:31 PM
  #10696  
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
The battery on the Viper remote?

On a Maxima forum?

Maybe Viper remote
Hey, thanks for being useless!


Since it comes with Maximas, it seems stupidly relevant...
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Old 05-22-2010, 12:32 AM
  #10697  
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Does Viper commonly come with Maximas?

This is a Maxima board, not a Viper Board, had you asked about a Maxima FOB, I could have and would have answered it to my capacity ... but, Viper? Perhaps your particular model # and take it from there..
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Old 05-22-2010, 07:03 AM
  #10698  
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I have a 2000 Maxima GLE with 160k miles. Recently, I found that when I wanted to accelerate from speed around 20 mph, when I press the pedal slowly, the transmission swift not smoothly. The rotation speed of the motor would go to about 3000 rpm. It felt like the car was dragged. After that everything was OK.

Is it the problem of the transmission? Will it be serious and how can I know it?

Thank you so much.
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Old 05-22-2010, 07:25 AM
  #10699  
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Originally Posted by m.xie
I have a 2000 Maxima GLE with 160k miles. Recently, I found that when I wanted to accelerate from speed around 20 mph, when I press the pedal slowly, the transmission swift not smoothly. The rotation speed of the motor would go to about 3000 rpm. It felt like the car was dragged. After that everything was OK.

Is it the problem of the transmission? Will it be serious and how can I know it?

Thank you so much.
Does it happen to be going down on roads with a slight incline? Mine does that ocassionally. For some reason it used to happen more often before I changed my passenger side motor mount. I guess the new mount tightened things a bit, not allowing too much play around the transmission housing.
You might want to check the conditon of you transmission fluid and/or change it if you haven't done so in a while.
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Old 05-22-2010, 07:42 AM
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Thank you so much for your quick response.
I think there is nothing to do with the road. I will check the condition of the transmission fluid once more, because several days before, I just got it inspected in a Nissan dealer, they told me all the fluids are OK.

But, they DID tell me that I should change my upper sturt amounts. Are these what you have changed? Is there anything to do with the transmission?

Thank you again.
Originally Posted by Nelsito65
Does it happen to be going down on roads with a slight incline? Mine does that ocassionally. For some reason it used to happen more often before I changed my passenger side motor mount. I guess the new mount tightened things a bit, not allowing too much play around the transmission housing.
You might want to check the conditon of you transmission fluid and/or change it if you haven't done so in a while.
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Old 05-22-2010, 08:05 AM
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Does tune-up have anything to do with this problem?
How do I know whether I need a tune-up or not?

Thank you.

Originally Posted by m.xie
I have a 2000 Maxima GLE with 160k miles. Recently, I found that when I wanted to accelerate from speed around 20 mph, when I press the pedal slowly, the transmission swift not smoothly. The rotation speed of the motor would go to about 3000 rpm. It felt like the car was dragged. After that everything was OK.

Is it the problem of the transmission? Will it be serious and how can I know it?

Thank you so much.
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Old 05-22-2010, 08:29 AM
  #10702  
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come on clutch ideas please!!! lol, i need to know what clutch brands most of you guys use for around 350wtq. this is a pretty good estimate of what i will be at on nitrous. input! 3.5L 6spd 5.5 gen is the application
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Old 05-22-2010, 04:21 PM
  #10703  
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Im new here and plan on buying a maxima in a few weeks I always like the maxima's!!

I have two in mind

A 2000 white Gle with 103k miles for 5k the carfax also came back clean.
http://www.lemonfree.com/48147926.html-1

The 2nd one is a metallic green 2002 gle with 128k for 5,192 it's also has rims and tints and it recently was reduced a 1,000
http://www.dpaa2.com/inventory/detai...=9150#tippytop

Which one is the better deal once again Im new here thanks in advance
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Old 05-23-2010, 12:17 PM
  #10704  
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Heyy guys, I need a little help with my fogs. I currently have completely stock fogs, and I am looking at get the yellow HID bulbs to put in my stock lenses. Can I do this as a swap from the stock bulbs to the yellow HID ones, or do I need to get a HID conversion kit? Thanks!
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Old 05-23-2010, 02:47 PM
  #10705  
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Driver Side Boot Repair

I have had boot damage for awhile and have been driving with it while I decide what to do. Should I just get the boot damage repaired or have the whole axle replaced? Will replacing the axle fix any and all damage from the damaged boot? If I replace the axle on the driver side should I also replace the axle on the passenger side? Here's a photo of the current damage.

Thanks for your help!
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Old 05-23-2010, 03:08 PM
  #10706  
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Its best to replace the entire axle since dirt and other crap in t here and cause damage.
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Old 05-24-2010, 08:21 AM
  #10707  
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Headache? Explain?

A chip these days could be a # of things. A TS ECU is a good mod.
Sure: how many dollars for x amount of performance gain? Will the same 500 dollars spent, on a stock maxima, on intake and exhaust improvements get one more or less felt performance improvements? How much time does it take to tune the electronic solution until the maximum benefits are realized?

My point was that installing a piggyback or other "chip", and its calibration is the last thing you do in most cases, unless you enjoy driving around with laptop in the passenger seat. You generally need the other improvements to actually take advantage of electronic mods, or end up doing them anyways, so why do it backwards?
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Old 05-24-2010, 09:10 AM
  #10708  
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Originally Posted by homeyclaus
Sure: how many dollars for x amount of performance gain? Will the same 500 dollars spent, on a stock maxima, on intake and exhaust improvements get one more or less felt performance improvements? How much time does it take to tune the electronic solution until the maximum benefits are realized?

My point was that installing a piggyback or other "chip", and its calibration is the last thing you do in most cases, unless you enjoy driving around with laptop in the passenger seat. You generally need the other improvements to actually take advantage of electronic mods, or end up doing them anyways, so why do it backwards?
You gotta pay to play.

And it depends on your perspective and depth of how far you want to go with it.
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Old 05-24-2010, 09:26 AM
  #10709  
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does anyone know where to get catbacks or cold/short air intakes for 2002-2003 maximas?
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Old 05-24-2010, 09:33 AM
  #10710  
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Originally Posted by deadwrongtd
does anyone know where to get catbacks or cold/short air intakes for 2002-2003 maximas?
Cattman has catbacks as well as a # of other places. He also has intakes as well. Umm, search a little maybe

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...fications.html
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Old 05-24-2010, 09:54 AM
  #10711  
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
You gotta pay to play.

And it depends on your perspective and depth of how far you want to go with it.
I never argued that. The argument is that given $500, $1000, or $2000, and a stock max, getting an electronic mod is not where I'd start.
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Old 05-24-2010, 09:56 AM
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The only reason I took slight offense was because both you & Sooner mentioned they aren't worth it on our car, and I thought that was vague and slightly misinformed.
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Old 05-24-2010, 03:03 PM
  #10713  
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Headers catback install

I am new and I was trying to get a walkthrough or some pictures or something as far as trying to install aftermarket headers and a catback exhaust. When I found some how-to threads they linked to the wrong thread. Hopefully this thread can point me in the right direction. Thank you.
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Old 05-24-2010, 03:14 PM
  #10714  
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Lets say i want to swap my 3.0 into a 3.5... How much will i have to spend for the block? and how much can i sell my 3.0 with 78,***miles on it?
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Old 05-25-2010, 09:16 AM
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2001 Trans stuck in 2nd when starting out cold.

Well, I've searched and I don't see anyone with this particular problem.

The issue is that when the max is cold, it's like (in fact I'm sure) the trans is stuck in 2nd and is very doggy starting out. If I hold the throttle on gently for about 2-5 seconds, the trans suddenly kicks down/in and the car pulls out normally. This problem will happen on the first 2-4 stop signs, then the trans will act normal for the rest of the day.

The problem started about 2 months after a trans service which is the first since I bought the car about 3 years ago so I'm wondering if it's related.

I took it back to the trans shop and left it overnight. They were able to re-create the symptoms but came back with "your engine is not running correctly and not able to generate the power to pull out" to which I call BS. The engine never misses a beat and generates great power. Mileage is about 140,000 kms.

Any suggestions or anyone else having this particular shifting issue.
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Old 05-25-2010, 09:31 AM
  #10716  
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Originally Posted by BCmaxima2
Well, I've searched and I don't see anyone with this particular problem.

The issue is that when the max is cold, it's like (in fact I'm sure) the trans is stuck in 2nd and is very doggy starting out. If I hold the throttle on gently for about 2-5 seconds, the trans suddenly kicks down/in and the car pulls out normally. This problem will happen on the first 2-4 stop signs, then the trans will act normal for the rest of the day.

The problem started about 2 months after a trans service which is the first since I bought the car about 3 years ago so I'm wondering if it's related.

I took it back to the trans shop and left it overnight. They were able to re-create the symptoms but came back with "your engine is not running correctly and not able to generate the power to pull out" to which I call BS. The engine never misses a beat and generates great power. Mileage is about 140,000 kms.

Any suggestions or anyone else having this particular shifting issue.
Is your OD light on even when OD is not on? Does it blink?
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Old 05-25-2010, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Is your OD light on even when OD is not on? Does it blink?
Good point. I'm sure it's never blinked but I couldn't say whether the light was on. The only OD light I remember is the OD off light when you disable OD with the switch.

I'll check after work today.
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Old 05-25-2010, 10:46 AM
  #10718  
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Originally Posted by AUTOmobilePHILE
Heyy guys, I need a little help with my fogs. I currently have completely stock fogs, and I am looking at get the yellow HID bulbs to put in my stock lenses. Can I do this as a swap from the stock bulbs to the yellow HID ones, or do I need to get a HID conversion kit? Thanks!
I dont think you can just swap bulbs, go to ddmtuning.com, they have HID kits for $30. If you want yellow then get the 3000k H3's, not hard to install either, just follow one DIY write-ups on this forum.
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Old 05-25-2010, 10:47 AM
  #10719  
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I need help. Long story short, after either working on my foglight rewire or installing my mirror turn signals (can't remember which one it was), I blew some fuses, replaced them, and now when I lock my car with the wireless keypad, only my horn chirps, but no lights flash. Could this be a fuse, or something else? I know my hazard fuse is good because that was one of the fuses that I blew, as well as my turn signals. They are now replaced. Please help.
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Old 05-25-2010, 11:03 AM
  #10720  
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Originally Posted by 01-maxima-24
I dont think you can just swap bulbs, go to ddmtuning.com, they have HID kits for $30. If you want yellow then get the 3000k H3's, not hard to install either, just follow one DIY write-ups on this forum.

Awesome man, thanks. That's real cheap. What size bulb is in the fog lights?
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