5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-09-2010, 12:58 PM
  #11201  
Senior Member
iTrader: (23)
 
The6spdMax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,194
Originally Posted by foureverlow
FNG here I'm looking for pics on the DIY short throw shifter for my 5th gen 6-speed just need a lil help please, Thanks!
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...arts-list.html
The6spdMax is offline  
Old 08-09-2010, 02:24 PM
  #11202  
Member
iTrader: (1)
 
djshwini's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Gainesville, FL.
Posts: 253
Ok a couple of weeks back i had to replace my battery because its was dead. Yesterday i went to start the car and it didnt start, so i had AAA jump start it ( didnt think it was a battery issue, thought it was starter) but it turned on. So i let it sit so the bat would charge some. I took it to pep boys and they said everything is fine, just the battery voltage is alittle low, so just as you drive it will charge.

This is get, but i still have no idea why the battery discharged in a couple of weeks. I was thinking there was some short somewhere or the alternator was bad (but it alt. checked out). Any ideas?
djshwini is offline  
Old 08-09-2010, 02:53 PM
  #11203  
Senior Member
iTrader: (23)
 
The6spdMax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,194
Originally Posted by djshwini
Ok a couple of weeks back i had to replace my battery because its was dead. Yesterday i went to start the car and it didnt start, so i had AAA jump start it ( didnt think it was a battery issue, thought it was starter) but it turned on. So i let it sit so the bat would charge some. I took it to pep boys and they said everything is fine, just the battery voltage is alittle low, so just as you drive it will charge.

This is get, but i still have no idea why the battery discharged in a couple of weeks. I was thinking there was some short somewhere or the alternator was bad (but it alt. checked out). Any ideas?
It could be a short somewhere... did you install any aftermarket audios to your car?
The6spdMax is offline  
Old 08-09-2010, 03:04 PM
  #11204  
Junior Member
 
Ghost_capo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 39
Originally Posted by The6spdMax
It could be a short somewhere... did you install any aftermarket audios to your car?
No i havent changed anything, only thing i attempted was changing the drivers window switch unless that triggered the fuse to blow as well as the dash light. And ive read if it was a short it would go out immediately the fuse is still good after ive put it in and drove around for like an hr
Ghost_capo is offline  
Old 08-09-2010, 03:06 PM
  #11205  
Junior Member
 
Henryzx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Manteca, CALI
Posts: 21
My car started to have "Engine Service Soon" light on this morning, does this mean there's something wrong with it (there's no indication as far as functionality - still drive like new). or it just needs a 100k service ? it has 116k miles btw.

Thanks in advance for all your helps

Henry
Henryzx is offline  
Old 08-09-2010, 03:26 PM
  #11206  
Cletus
iTrader: (5)
 
SoonerFan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: OKC, OK
Posts: 23,676
Originally Posted by Henryzx
My car started to have "Engine Service Soon" light on this morning, does this mean there's something wrong with it (there's no indication as far as functionality - still drive like new). or it just needs a 100k service ? it has 116k miles btw.

Thanks in advance for all your helps

Henry
the light is for an emissions problem 90% of the time

find out what the code is (most auto parts stores with check for free are a small price) and then post the code on here and we will go from there
SoonerFan is offline  
Old 08-09-2010, 05:27 PM
  #11207  
Junior Member
 
Ghost_capo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 39
I have an update to my lighting problem, when ever my headlights are off the inside lights work fine but once they are on the lights go out..
Ghost_capo is offline  
Old 08-09-2010, 05:40 PM
  #11208  
Member
iTrader: (1)
 
djshwini's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Gainesville, FL.
Posts: 253
Originally Posted by The6spdMax
It could be a short somewhere... did you install any aftermarket audios to your car?
I didnt install any aftermarket audio. Got it back from pepboys everything is fine right now, hopefully it stays like that.
djshwini is offline  
Old 08-09-2010, 07:05 PM
  #11209  
Newbie - Just Registered
 
galheit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: cleve, ohio
Posts: 7
Hey all noob here /lol a question . Ive benn benn getting a p0446 and a p0455 continsely for a year now . Visually inspected vac ,line to the evap. seems to be no leaks . Cleared the codes today with my handy dandy scanner ( whicch has paid for its self over n over again ) aaaand it fast past at the Ohio Echeck . also gas cap passed no prob, also. Ive drove it for a few hours and no light ? any way Ive done this manny times and it will stay off for a few weeks . 186000 miles n goin strong. I beat the crap out of it , and rolled a 2010 mustang form the get go . anyways any idea what could be causeing these codes ?
I would be greatful for aaaaany input
thanks
galheit is offline  
Old 08-10-2010, 12:06 AM
  #11210  
Junior Member
 
Henryzx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Manteca, CALI
Posts: 21
Originally Posted by SoonerFan
the light is for an emissions problem 90% of the time

find out what the code is (most auto parts stores with check for free are a small price) and then post the code on here and we will go from there
Thank you, i'll have it scanned, but this car just passed smog 3 weeks ago...
Henryzx is offline  
Old 08-10-2010, 04:32 AM
  #11211  
Newbie - Just Registered
 
prmaxi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: P.A
Posts: 12
Originally Posted by prmaxi
first my check engine light is on,,,,, ok this my story, i recently replaced all my ignition coils, from someones that i brought off ebay,i put them in everything went just fine besides the part where the rubber connecter got stuck in the spark plug chamber on to the spark plug,,well anyways i replace them and i thought everything was fine but after turniing it on and off a couple times the light soon came back,so i took the neg and pos off the battery let it sit for about 15 minutes and now my tcs/off and slip lights are along with check engine WTF!!!!, so after some research i read that it could be the CrankShaftPostioningSensor,so i replaced the one on the left side, right off the front side valve cover,( i replaced this with the neg and pos off the battery,) it stood off for about 20 minutes and a whole crap load of me turning it on and off,......now its back on again and im just at the point right now,,thinking WHATS NEXT???????? HELP GUIDANCE PLEASE
some one helpppp me pleasseee!!
prmaxi is offline  
Old 08-10-2010, 05:16 AM
  #11212  
Member
iTrader: (2)
 
gdal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Fredericksburg, VA
Posts: 168
Originally Posted by gdal
I just purchased a 2000 SE with 81k. I'm planning on changing all the fluids. I'm thinking about performing a tune up, but I'm still debating what things to get.

Here's my list:

1. Spark plugs
2. PCV valve
3. Fuel Filter
4. Throttle Body Cleaning
5. IAVC Cleaning (or whatever it's called)
6. New Air Filter

I'm still debating if I should replaced all coils. I have all service records and the MAF was replaced a few years ago so I'm cleaning that too. Only one coil has been replaced since new. It's not throwing any codes and it's running great. I'm thinking about running seafoam or bg 44k too.

What do you guys recommend?
Any input guys?
gdal is offline  
Old 08-10-2010, 06:05 AM
  #11213  
dot dot dot ...
iTrader: (22)
 
NmexMAX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Santa Fe, NM
Posts: 34,588
Originally Posted by gdal
Any input guys?
I wouldn't replace the coils unless they needed it. And your list looks fine. I'd inspect the belts too and replace if needed.


Originally Posted by prmaxi
some one helpppp me pleasseee!!
Next logical thing would be to get the code read.
NmexMAX is offline  
Old 08-10-2010, 07:39 AM
  #11214  
Newbie - Just Registered
 
prmaxi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: P.A
Posts: 12
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
I wouldn't replace the coils unless they needed it. And your list looks fine. I'd inspect the belts too and replace if needed.




Next logical thing would be to get the code read.
i did still giving me the p1320, why would the tcs and slip come on after i change the coils i dont get it
prmaxi is offline  
Old 08-10-2010, 08:59 AM
  #11215  
Member
iTrader: (1)
 
djshwini's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Gainesville, FL.
Posts: 253
Ok, so i have a problem thats pretty aggravating and i cant figure it out. So i bought a battery 3 weeks ago because my last one was dead. 2 days ago my car didnt turn on so i had it jumpstarted yesterday. Took it to pep boys and they "said" that the battery and alternator looked fine, and to just let the car charge as you drive. They said the battery was healthy, but the voltage was just low. Today, to my surprise when i was in a rush to get out of the house, the battery was completely dead. No crank on ignition, no clicking, nothing.
I honestly have no idea what it is now, i think there is a short circuit somewhere, but i really dont know.Just need to know why my "new" battery is getting discharged Any input would be great. And i just want to thank all the ppl on the org for being so nice about helping me and everyone about their maxi-pad probs. Thank yaa!

Last edited by djshwini; 08-10-2010 at 09:02 AM.
djshwini is offline  
Old 08-10-2010, 09:23 AM
  #11216  
Senior Member
 
VQP0WER's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 1,767
Originally Posted by djshwini
Ok, so i have a problem thats pretty aggravating and i cant figure it out. So i bought a battery 3 weeks ago because my last one was dead. 2 days ago my car didnt turn on so i had it jumpstarted yesterday. Took it to pep boys and they "said" that the battery and alternator looked fine, and to just let the car charge as you drive. They said the battery was healthy, but the voltage was just low. Today, to my surprise when i was in a rush to get out of the house, the battery was completely dead. No crank on ignition, no clicking, nothing.
I honestly have no idea what it is now, i think there is a short circuit somewhere, but i really dont know.Just need to know why my "new" battery is getting discharged Any input would be great. And i just want to thank all the ppl on the org for being so nice about helping me and everyone about their maxi-pad probs. Thank yaa!
I had this issue once and it turned out the battery cable was slightly loose on the battery post. I would have to wiggle the cable until I got a post shim. It's not a guarentee this is your problem, but worth a look. If it's not that, it's either your alternator or you have something is leaking power.
VQP0WER is offline  
Old 08-10-2010, 10:26 AM
  #11217  
Member
iTrader: (1)
 
djshwini's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Gainesville, FL.
Posts: 253
Originally Posted by VQP0WER
I had this issue once and it turned out the battery cable was slightly loose on the battery post. I would have to wiggle the cable until I got a post shim. It's not a guarentee this is your problem, but worth a look. If it's not that, it's either your alternator or you have something is leaking power.
Yeah I tried adjusting the cable but no luck. I was trying to think of something that would leak pwr, but nothing came to mind, considering i dont leave random things on on my car. I also think its the alternator. I now dont think its a short because im pretty sure i would see sparks, and voltage of the battery wouldnt slowly go down it there was one. But im going to have sears check it out. I really think pep boys didnt even do anything, prob just did a visual inspection or something.... Thanks for the input tho.
djshwini is offline  
Old 08-10-2010, 11:32 AM
  #11218  
Member
iTrader: (1)
 
djshwini's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Gainesville, FL.
Posts: 253
Originally Posted by VQP0WER
I had this issue once and it turned out the battery cable was slightly loose on the battery post. I would have to wiggle the cable until I got a post shim. It's not a guarentee this is your problem, but worth a look. If it's not that, it's either your alternator or you have something is leaking power.
A little off topic but the guy at pep boys recommended a fuel induction (r injection, one of the 2) service. He said they would pour cleaner in the tank (can do myself) but they also said they would spray the throttle body with some spray to rid it of carbon build up or something. And there was one other thing they were going to do. Worth it or way for me to waste $. Im at 123k miles btw.
djshwini is offline  
Old 08-10-2010, 12:51 PM
  #11219  
Junior Member
 
Nismo822's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Detroit, MI
Posts: 25
Originally Posted by djshwini
Yeah I tried adjusting the cable but no luck. I was trying to think of something that would leak pwr, but nothing came to mind, considering i dont leave random things on on my car. I also think its the alternator. I now dont think its a short because im pretty sure i would see sparks, and voltage of the battery wouldnt slowly go down it there was one. But im going to have sears check it out. I really think pep boys didnt even do anything, prob just did a visual inspection or something.... Thanks for the input tho.
You might want to just take out the alternator and get it tested yourself at autozone or o'reillys. But even if it is the alternator going bad, you should have the battery light on the gauges to tell you the car is running off the battery. It might be somthing else that's on and is draining ur battery while the car is off. Did u install anything prior to this or change anyting electrical?
Nismo822 is offline  
Old 08-10-2010, 01:36 PM
  #11220  
Cletus
iTrader: (5)
 
SoonerFan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: OKC, OK
Posts: 23,676
Originally Posted by djshwini
A little off topic but the guy at pep boys recommended a fuel induction (r injection, one of the 2) service. He said they would pour cleaner in the tank (can do myself) but they also said they would spray the throttle body with some spray to rid it of carbon build up or something. And there was one other thing they were going to do. Worth it or way for me to waste $. Im at 123k miles btw.
do it yourself

1. BG44K in gas tank (cleans injectors, etc)
2. seafoam in brake booster hose (cleans intake manifold)
SoonerFan is offline  
Old 08-10-2010, 01:56 PM
  #11221  
Junior Member
 
Ghost_capo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 39
Hello again.. I changed the window switch and dimmer and now my lights and window problem is solved only thing left is the radiator fan fuse that keeps on burning out, i went to a electric auto mechanic and paid him 125 to diagnose it (it hurt me so bad) after he poked his meter thingy around he said the fan it self has a short and i have to get it changed, I went ahead and tried to remove my old fan and managed to do it fairly easy, so i was looking online and i see they have fan assemblies on eBay and amazon
i was looking into getting one of these, would you guy recommend it?

http://www.amazon.com/INFINITI-CONDE...473275&sr=8-34

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSA...Q5fAccessories

I was also thinking can i just change the motor and keep the fan i currently have?
Ghost_capo is offline  
Old 08-10-2010, 03:02 PM
  #11222  
Senior Member
 
VQP0WER's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 1,767
Originally Posted by Ghost_capo
Hello again.. I changed the window switch and dimmer and now my lights and window problem is solved only thing left is the radiator fan fuse that keeps on burning out, i went to a electric auto mechanic and paid him 125 to diagnose it (it hurt me so bad) after he poked his meter thingy around he said the fan it self has a short and i have to get it changed, I went ahead and tried to remove my old fan and managed to do it fairly easy, so i was looking online and i see they have fan assemblies on eBay and amazon
i was looking into getting one of these, would you guy recommend it?

http://www.amazon.com/INFINITI-CONDE...473275&sr=8-34

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSA...Q5fAccessories

I was also thinking can i just change the motor and keep the fan i currently have?
I know you are not wanting to spend alot of money, like most of us, but look into getting a OEM replacement from rockauto.com. I've had good luck with them, and if you go to http://www.retailmenot.com/view/rockauto.com , you can get a coupon for even more money off.
VQP0WER is offline  
Old 08-10-2010, 05:57 PM
  #11223  
Member
iTrader: (1)
 
djshwini's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Gainesville, FL.
Posts: 253
Originally Posted by SoonerFan
do it yourself

1. BG44K in gas tank (cleans injectors, etc)
2. seafoam in brake booster hose (cleans intake manifold)
I researched alot on the topic but there are two things i cannot find out. One, where exactly is the brake booster hose. And is it recommended that you put some in your gas tank?
djshwini is offline  
Old 08-10-2010, 06:03 PM
  #11224  
Member
 
Specd_out's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 136
Brake booster line is located on the firewall. It goes to the brake booster on the drivers side firewall. Its a large black circular object.

You will see that the line goes from brake booster to aluminum pipe then to the intake manifold. Disconnect it from the aluminum pipe to the intake manifold.

Make sure you pour it very slowly. too much and you damage the motor.

FYI the car will run like absolute crap while doing this. and will want to stall. I find it works best having some one in the car keeping the idle around 1500.
Specd_out is offline  
Old 08-10-2010, 09:29 PM
  #11225  
Junior Member
 
Ghost_capo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 39
Originally Posted by VQP0WER
I know you are not wanting to spend alot of money, like most of us, but look into getting a OEM replacement from rockauto.com. I've had good luck with them, and if you go to http://www.retailmenot.com/view/rockauto.com , you can get a coupon for even more money off.
Thanks for that, but any other opinions cause im super broke right now
Ghost_capo is offline  
Old 08-11-2010, 06:10 AM
  #11226  
dot dot dot ...
iTrader: (22)
 
NmexMAX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Santa Fe, NM
Posts: 34,588
Originally Posted by Ghost_capo
Thanks for that, but any other opinions cause im super broke right now
www.car-part.com

Keep in mind, it's a junkyard part so .... yeah.
NmexMAX is offline  
Old 08-11-2010, 06:55 AM
  #11227  
dot dot dot ...
iTrader: (22)
 
NmexMAX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Santa Fe, NM
Posts: 34,588
Can anyone help with this question?

Originally Posted by ColdRain
Apologies for reviving old thread, but does anyone know how to take off Residue left from rubbing alcohol/acetone on Window Glass? I used it to remove tree sap, but I forgot to clean afterward and overtime it created this clear residue coat which is very visible from inside of car. Glass seems to have clear stains. I may try to capture a photo, but any clues?
NmexMAX is offline  
Old 08-11-2010, 10:02 AM
  #11228  
Junior Member
 
Henryzx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Manteca, CALI
Posts: 21
I know this old, but hey I'm new ... and I've done lots or searches ... so just want to confirm one thing ... MAXSPEED springs will be OK with Tokico Blue ?? in term of reliability? I'm not concern about the ride, I used to have an 88 Z31 Shiro Ed , anyone has it know how stiff that little z is... Anyhow, please just give me a ya or nay ... before break my bank for an eibach pro kit .... thank you
Henryzx is offline  
Old 08-11-2010, 01:09 PM
  #11229  
Cletus
iTrader: (5)
 
SoonerFan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: OKC, OK
Posts: 23,676
Originally Posted by Henryzx
I know this old, but hey I'm new ... and I've done lots or searches ... so just want to confirm one thing ... MAXSPEED springs will be OK with Tokico Blue ?? in term of reliability? I'm not concern about the ride, I used to have an 88 Z31 Shiro Ed , anyone has it know how stiff that little z is... Anyhow, please just give me a ya or nay ... before break my bank for an eibach pro kit .... thank you
reliability will be fine
SoonerFan is offline  
Old 08-11-2010, 01:16 PM
  #11230  
Cletus
iTrader: (5)
 
SoonerFan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: OKC, OK
Posts: 23,676
Originally Posted by djshwini
I researched alot on the topic but there are two things i cannot find out. One, where exactly is the brake booster hose. And is it recommended that you put some in your gas tank?
everything you need to know, and more

http://forums.maxima.org/fluids-lubr...-manifold.html
SoonerFan is offline  
Old 08-11-2010, 02:14 PM
  #11231  
Senior Member
 
VQP0WER's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 1,767
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Can anyone help with this question?
Originally Posted by ColdRain
Apologies for reviving old thread, but does anyone know how to take off Residue left from rubbing alcohol/acetone on Window Glass? I used it to remove tree sap, but I forgot to clean afterward and overtime it created this clear residue coat which is very visible from inside of car. Glass seems to have clear stains. I may try to capture a photo, but any clues?
It can be one of two things:

1. Tree sap
2. Etched glass

Try some Goo Gone for the tree sap, and if that doesn't work, get 1 tablet of denture cleaner and mix it with 8 ounces hot water and scrub it.
VQP0WER is offline  
Old 08-11-2010, 04:21 PM
  #11232  
Junior Member
 
Ghost_capo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 39
Just wondering would the radiator fan from a 96 max fit on my 2000 maxima, was looking at the diagrams on courtesy parts and they look exactly the same
Ghost_capo is offline  
Old 08-11-2010, 04:26 PM
  #11233  
detailerdaveb@gmail.com
iTrader: (10)
 
maximadave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 6,242
Originally Posted by djshwini
A little off topic but the guy at pep boys recommended a fuel induction (r injection, one of the 2) service. He said they would pour cleaner in the tank (can do myself) but they also said they would spray the throttle body with some spray to rid it of carbon build up or something. And there was one other thing they were going to do. Worth it or way for me to waste $. Im at 123k miles btw.

Use BG44K in the tank and Seafoam thru the brake booster line.

Last edited by maximadave; 08-11-2010 at 04:30 PM.
maximadave is offline  
Old 08-11-2010, 04:40 PM
  #11234  
Senior Member
 
VQP0WER's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 1,767
Originally Posted by Ghost_capo
Just wondering would the radiator fan from a 96 max fit on my 2000 maxima, was looking at the diagrams on courtesy parts and they look exactly the same
I'm showing different part numbers, but they maybe the same.....
VQP0WER is offline  
Old 08-11-2010, 05:28 PM
  #11235  
Cletus
iTrader: (5)
 
SoonerFan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: OKC, OK
Posts: 23,676
Originally Posted by maximadave
Use BG44K in the tank and Seafoam thru the brake booster line.
great minds...



Originally Posted by SoonerFan
do it yourself

1. BG44K in gas tank (cleans injectors, etc)
2. seafoam in brake booster hose (cleans intake manifold)
SoonerFan is offline  
Old 08-11-2010, 05:56 PM
  #11236  
Member
iTrader: (2)
 
gdal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Fredericksburg, VA
Posts: 168
my dark gray interior pieces in my 2000 maxima are all scratched up. Are these things too expensive to replace? Can I paint them instead? What do you guys recommend?
gdal is offline  
Old 08-11-2010, 06:37 PM
  #11237  
Newbie - Just Registered
 
galheit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: cleve, ohio
Posts: 7
2000 max GLE , Im looking to change my muffler . The one im looking at is basically a 2.750 straight thru . WWill this hurt me in power ? not enough back pressure ?
thanks Gary
galheit is offline  
Old 08-11-2010, 07:06 PM
  #11238  
Senior Member
iTrader: (23)
 
The6spdMax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,194
Originally Posted by gdal
my dark gray interior pieces in my 2000 maxima are all scratched up. Are these things too expensive to replace? Can I paint them instead? What do you guys recommend?
Depend what specific pieces you are talking about. I would just get them when someone is parting out their car, or junk yard.
The6spdMax is offline  
Old 08-11-2010, 07:15 PM
  #11239  
Member
iTrader: (2)
 
gdal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Fredericksburg, VA
Posts: 168
Originally Posted by The6spdMax
Depend what specific pieces you are talking about. I would just get them when someone is parting out their car, or junk yard.
I'm talking about the shifter trim piece, center console vents (2 vents), and the window switch trim for all doors. I have found several maximas at junkyards around my area, but everyone wants me to buy the entire door.
gdal is offline  
Old 08-11-2010, 09:29 PM
  #11240  
Senior Member
 
pepox369's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Ruston, LA
Posts: 317
Originally Posted by galheit
2000 max GLE , Im looking to change my muffler . The one im looking at is basically a 2.750 straight thru . WWill this hurt me in power ? not enough back pressure ?
thanks Gary
the back pressure deal is almost a myth.. but i believe that as long as you have a muffler at the end you will be fine.. and if you dont get headers, all the 2.75 piping will not be as effective..
pepox369 is offline  


Quick Reply: 5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 04:15 PM.