5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
08-16-2010, 02:52 PM
Well, then that's disturbing. I was hoping replacing the KS would be the solution to my lack of low RPM performance. If the KS has been replaced and is reporting properly, then it's obviously not the culprit. So the question is, what to look at next.
The basic symptom is that I get very little response until the RPMs hit about 2800. Below that, it really doesn't matter how much I punch it, I get nothing. From what I've read here and other places, KS was a likely suspect, as well as MAF.
So, here's a MAF question. I've read that when the MAF is replaced, ECU needs to be reprogrammed or reset. If the old MAF was bad and I dropped a new one in, would I see immediate results, or would a reset or reprogram have to occur?
The basic symptom is that I get very little response until the RPMs hit about 2800. Below that, it really doesn't matter how much I punch it, I get nothing. From what I've read here and other places, KS was a likely suspect, as well as MAF.
So, here's a MAF question. I've read that when the MAF is replaced, ECU needs to be reprogrammed or reset. If the old MAF was bad and I dropped a new one in, would I see immediate results, or would a reset or reprogram have to occur?
08-16-2010, 03:18 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 1,767
Originally Posted by etrmk
Hi,
Some time ago, my a/c got hot and then I finally just guessed that it was lack of refrigerant, so I got one of those recharge cans, fit it onto the "L" cap, but the pressure said that it had enough refrigerant and none would pump into the car.
Above, I read this:
Quote:
turn your car to accessory and turn the AC on cold and listen to hear if the car drops in idle and the compressor kicks on.. its very possible the compressor went bad..
I turned my car to accessory (first turn), but my a/c won't come on until I turn the key one more time to "on". Even then, my car isn't on, so I can't check idle! When I turn my a/c on, the air just comes out. I don't hear anything switch on under the hood, nor do I see the compressor belt turning.
To be honest, when I bought this car, I've never been able to turn on the a/c without the key being at least at the "on" position. 1) Is that a problem with my car? 2) Since I couldn't put refrigerant in it, I wanted to know if it could be my compressor, and how would I know? What are your best practices for this? I have the FSM, but, I wanted to get expert opinions first. Thank you.
Hi,
Some time ago, my a/c got hot and then I finally just guessed that it was lack of refrigerant, so I got one of those recharge cans, fit it onto the "L" cap, but the pressure said that it had enough refrigerant and none would pump into the car.
Above, I read this:
Quote:
turn your car to accessory and turn the AC on cold and listen to hear if the car drops in idle and the compressor kicks on.. its very possible the compressor went bad..
I turned my car to accessory (first turn), but my a/c won't come on until I turn the key one more time to "on". Even then, my car isn't on, so I can't check idle! When I turn my a/c on, the air just comes out. I don't hear anything switch on under the hood, nor do I see the compressor belt turning.
To be honest, when I bought this car, I've never been able to turn on the a/c without the key being at least at the "on" position. 1) Is that a problem with my car? 2) Since I couldn't put refrigerant in it, I wanted to know if it could be my compressor, and how would I know? What are your best practices for this? I have the FSM, but, I wanted to get expert opinions first. Thank you.
08-16-2010, 03:27 PM
Prob not as important as some of the other problems people are having, but whenever i have to drive the maxi more then 25 min or so, my lower back starts hurting like no other. (Im 17........) Any way to add cushioning in the seat without laying some ugly a$$ thing on top of the leather?
08-16-2010, 03:29 PM
This guy was bumping 5 year old threads with those 2 questions, so I moved them in here.
08-16-2010, 05:21 PM
Prob not as important as some of the other problems people are having, but whenever i have to drive the maxi more then 25 min or so, my lower back starts hurting like no other. (Im 17........) Any way to add cushioning in the seat without laying some ugly a$$ thing on top of the leather?
08-17-2010, 08:05 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 1,767
FWIW, I've had lower back issues for years and the seats in the Max do not help one bit. There are times I get out of the car with my entire leg feeling "asleep" and my back hurtin. It got so bad I shoved a small throw pillow down there when I drive any long distances.
08-17-2010, 10:14 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 18
Since the symptoms didn't go away, I have to assume that replacing the KS wasn't the solution. What to try next...fuel filter? I can't really see how a clogged fuel filter would cause my problem, mainly that the car lags until it hits 2800 RPM, when there is a noticeable surge in power.
Here are the codes the car has had since I've owned it:
P0135 - B1S1 O2 Code - Replaced front sensor, code did not return
P0430 - Bank 2 precat - Replaced precat (it WAS bad), code didn't return
P0140 - B1S2 O2 Code - Replaced spark plugs, reset code, it returned once, I reset it. Hasn't returned.
P0325 - KS "ghost" code - Replaced KS, cleaned throttle body, etc.
Couple of questions. Could the P0140 code (rear O2) signal the ECM to run lean? If the code isn't present, shouldn't the ECM revert to a richer mix? The consensus seems to be that a rear O2 monitors cat function, and the forward O2 is a more accurate measure of the proper fuel mix. A P0140 shouldn't be affecting overall engine performance, right?
Conventional wisdom also says blame the MAF (which has been replaced previously -- by the dealer, with an ECM reprogram -- and cleaned), but I would think a failing MAF would continue to degrade and performance would get worse over time.
Engine doesn't have noticeable knocking, but does exhibit some injector "clicking". Thoughts for what to try next?
08-17-2010, 10:23 AM
I called the service departments at two dealerships. Both said a reprogram is not necessary after replacing the KS.
Since the symptoms didn't go away, I have to assume that replacing the KS wasn't the solution. What to try next...fuel filter? I can't really see how a clogged fuel filter would cause my problem, mainly that the car lags until it hits 2800 RPM, when there is a noticeable surge in power.
Here are the codes the car has had since I've owned it:
P0135 - B1S1 O2 Code - Replaced front sensor, code did not return
P0430 - Bank 2 precat - Replaced precat (it WAS bad), code didn't return
P0140 - B1S2 O2 Code - Replaced spark plugs, reset code, it returned once, I reset it. Hasn't returned.
P0325 - KS "ghost" code - Replaced KS, cleaned throttle body, etc.
Couple of questions. Could the P0140 code (rear O2) signal the ECM to run lean? If the code isn't present, shouldn't the ECM revert to a richer mix? The consensus seems to be that a rear O2 monitors cat function, and the forward O2 is a more accurate measure of the proper fuel mix. A P0140 shouldn't be affecting overall engine performance, right?
Conventional wisdom also says blame the MAF (which has been replaced previously -- by the dealer, with an ECM reprogram -- and cleaned), but I would think a failing MAF would continue to degrade and performance would get worse over time.
Engine doesn't have noticeable knocking, but does exhibit some injector "clicking". Thoughts for what to try next?
Since the symptoms didn't go away, I have to assume that replacing the KS wasn't the solution. What to try next...fuel filter? I can't really see how a clogged fuel filter would cause my problem, mainly that the car lags until it hits 2800 RPM, when there is a noticeable surge in power.
Here are the codes the car has had since I've owned it:
P0135 - B1S1 O2 Code - Replaced front sensor, code did not return
P0430 - Bank 2 precat - Replaced precat (it WAS bad), code didn't return
P0140 - B1S2 O2 Code - Replaced spark plugs, reset code, it returned once, I reset it. Hasn't returned.
P0325 - KS "ghost" code - Replaced KS, cleaned throttle body, etc.
Couple of questions. Could the P0140 code (rear O2) signal the ECM to run lean? If the code isn't present, shouldn't the ECM revert to a richer mix? The consensus seems to be that a rear O2 monitors cat function, and the forward O2 is a more accurate measure of the proper fuel mix. A P0140 shouldn't be affecting overall engine performance, right?
Conventional wisdom also says blame the MAF (which has been replaced previously -- by the dealer, with an ECM reprogram -- and cleaned), but I would think a failing MAF would continue to degrade and performance would get worse over time.
Engine doesn't have noticeable knocking, but does exhibit some injector "clicking". Thoughts for what to try next?
Have you checked your IAT sensor and verified that it is attached to the intake tubing in its proper place?
And how did you replace the KS? Did you remove the IM and use a torque wrench to properly torque it onto the engine?
08-17-2010, 10:24 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 18
08-17-2010, 10:27 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 18
Ah yes, I was referring about the MAF regarding the reprogram, sorry about that mis-clarification.
Have you checked your IAT sensor and verified that it is attached to the intake tubing in its proper place?
And how did you replace the KS? Did you remove the IM and use a torque wrench to properly torque it onto the engine?
Have you checked your IAT sensor and verified that it is attached to the intake tubing in its proper place?
And how did you replace the KS? Did you remove the IM and use a torque wrench to properly torque it onto the engine?
And, BTW, you're quick with the responses! Thanks!
08-17-2010, 10:36 AM
Any luck locating that IAT sensor? Should be in near the MAF, in between the MAF & TB.
08-17-2010, 10:47 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 18
My understanding is that the IAT on the 2002 and later is built into the MAF. On the 00, it's located in front of the filter box. If I'm looking in the right place, it's properly attached.
08-17-2010, 10:49 AM
08-17-2010, 02:21 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 1,767
Well, then that's disturbing. I was hoping replacing the KS would be the solution to my lack of low RPM performance. If the KS has been replaced and is reporting properly, then it's obviously not the culprit. So the question is, what to look at next.
The basic symptom is that I get very little response until the RPMs hit about 2800. Below that, it really doesn't matter how much I punch it, I get nothing. From what I've read here and other places, KS was a likely suspect, as well as MAF.
So, here's a MAF question. I've read that when the MAF is replaced, ECU needs to be reprogrammed or reset. If the old MAF was bad and I dropped a new one in, would I see immediate results, or would a reset or reprogram have to occur?
The basic symptom is that I get very little response until the RPMs hit about 2800. Below that, it really doesn't matter how much I punch it, I get nothing. From what I've read here and other places, KS was a likely suspect, as well as MAF.
So, here's a MAF question. I've read that when the MAF is replaced, ECU needs to be reprogrammed or reset. If the old MAF was bad and I dropped a new one in, would I see immediate results, or would a reset or reprogram have to occur?
08-18-2010, 12:48 PM
Originally Posted by 2k1seae
I just bought a 2000 Maxima SE. The doughnut is in the trunk but no tools are in with it. Is there a separate compartment for the tools? Thanks in advance!
08-19-2010, 06:01 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 1,767
Mass Air Flow- it just measures the amount of air going into the intake.
08-19-2010, 03:31 PM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 12
2000SE (trans problems)?
I have a 2000 SE with warpspeed y-pipe and EVo2 catback. up until recently i had no problems with any of the exhaust after about 6 months one day i park my car get out look at a car on the Nissan dealers lot.. get back in.. and my car will barely move... I can't accelerate above 2000rpms. have no reverse and seemingly no 1st gear.. to my knowledge their on the same "gear" if you will and some say its a "safe mode" however OD light doesn't flash. I have never gotten a solid answer on how i might get it out of "Safe mode" if it is in that. and i have never gotten a full run down on a proper 2000-2001 ECU reset either... i found the 02-03 one.. maybe im just terrible at navigating or maybe they're not clearly posted anywhere.. however all fluid levels are good.. i've only ever used 91 octane in it. and as far as a complete flushing of the fluid i honestly can't say i know when it was redone... all i know is.. the engine starts and runs just fine. no stuttering or rough running.. just when i put the car in Drive it seems very bogged down and only revs up to 2k RPMS and reverse just doesn't work at all.. The problems didn't come slowly losing gears or anything of that sort.. it all stopped at once.. in a literal 45 second time frame.,, sorry for a huge post.. but any help would be awesome
08-19-2010, 05:57 PM
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: north shore, ma
Posts: 26
2000 Nissan maxima
After researching for a week or so I haven't really found a definitive answer for the p0171 code (lean bank 1).
The actual symptoms of this code are presently rough cold starting. Throttle response seems exelent once it is warmed up, though the idle can be a little rough it is nothing that say a novice would probably even notice.
After looking the car over this past week and learning all the functions of my code scanner and such, I have noticed a few things...
Cat, and o2 sensor monitors are n/a even after an hour of driving. Now I'm guessing the cat monitor being n/a could be directly related to the o2 monitor not being available.
After reviewing the live data on my Actron 9180 I have found that at a flat idle my o2 sensors look like this, through the entire 35 frames or so:
o2s11 - 0.000
o2s12 - 0.240
o2s21 - 0.000
o2s22 - 0.250
11 and 21 do fluctuate when the idle is revved but still lower then spec i believe. Am I understanding this correct in that i have two bad sensors, and two others that are on their way out?
I have cleaned the MAF, and for the data recording it averaged 1.8 - 2.0 throughout the recording. I also cleaned the air filter, and will be getting a new one, along with a new fuel filter tomorrow before I get into buying new o2 sensors.
Two other things I should mention:
First, the air duct on this car is a mess. The air-box containing the filter is fine, other then the dry rotted seal that attaches it to the scoop. Is this air-duct a priority to repair? The entire rest of the engine compartment looks immaculate, but for some reason this intake scoop is a mess.
Second, when reeving the car from under the hood I can hear a suction noise coming from somewhere around the bank one side, though as hard as I tried I couldn't pinpoint where it was coming from. For all I know this could be a normal noise the coming from the intake as more air-flow is being sucked into the system. I did read about a bad intake gasket on these cars though so i thought I would mention it, where I am having a lean condition.
Thank you in advance for any help!
P.S. Is it possible to still buy aftermarket MAF and o2 sensors which are OEM and do not require a dealer ECU reprogram? If so what differentiates the two seperate models? Maybe an "a" or a "b" in the part #?
The actual symptoms of this code are presently rough cold starting. Throttle response seems exelent once it is warmed up, though the idle can be a little rough it is nothing that say a novice would probably even notice.
After looking the car over this past week and learning all the functions of my code scanner and such, I have noticed a few things...
Cat, and o2 sensor monitors are n/a even after an hour of driving. Now I'm guessing the cat monitor being n/a could be directly related to the o2 monitor not being available.
After reviewing the live data on my Actron 9180 I have found that at a flat idle my o2 sensors look like this, through the entire 35 frames or so:
o2s11 - 0.000
o2s12 - 0.240
o2s21 - 0.000
o2s22 - 0.250
11 and 21 do fluctuate when the idle is revved but still lower then spec i believe. Am I understanding this correct in that i have two bad sensors, and two others that are on their way out?
I have cleaned the MAF, and for the data recording it averaged 1.8 - 2.0 throughout the recording. I also cleaned the air filter, and will be getting a new one, along with a new fuel filter tomorrow before I get into buying new o2 sensors.
Two other things I should mention:
First, the air duct on this car is a mess. The air-box containing the filter is fine, other then the dry rotted seal that attaches it to the scoop. Is this air-duct a priority to repair? The entire rest of the engine compartment looks immaculate, but for some reason this intake scoop is a mess.
Second, when reeving the car from under the hood I can hear a suction noise coming from somewhere around the bank one side, though as hard as I tried I couldn't pinpoint where it was coming from. For all I know this could be a normal noise the coming from the intake as more air-flow is being sucked into the system. I did read about a bad intake gasket on these cars though so i thought I would mention it, where I am having a lean condition.
Thank you in advance for any help!
P.S. Is it possible to still buy aftermarket MAF and o2 sensors which are OEM and do not require a dealer ECU reprogram? If so what differentiates the two seperate models? Maybe an "a" or a "b" in the part #?
08-19-2010, 07:39 PM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 1
Compression Ratio
Hi Guys,
I'm currently looking into a 2001 Maxima, and just want to be sure that the mileage hasn't been messed with. I am planning on running a compression test on the engine. I was wondering if anyone knows what the compression ratio should be if the car is around 120,000 kms (75000 mi). I know brand new it is at 10:1, but I'm not sure what it should be at when its a little worn out.
Thanks
-J
I'm currently looking into a 2001 Maxima, and just want to be sure that the mileage hasn't been messed with. I am planning on running a compression test on the engine. I was wondering if anyone knows what the compression ratio should be if the car is around 120,000 kms (75000 mi). I know brand new it is at 10:1, but I'm not sure what it should be at when its a little worn out.
Thanks
-J
08-19-2010, 08:40 PM
so ill figure ths out tomarrow...but if someone could answer me before then it would be greatly appreciated
my clutch petal has been dying off for a few months. noticed some fluid on the lower clutch line.
figured it was my line/slave cyl
bought a ceramic coated ss clutch line.it was the upper (my bad)
just bought a slave cylinder(i will do a small write up if my questoins answered)
bled the brakes properly
clutch pedal is still dead to the floor.
(ive searched)
what am i doing wrong?
thanks, jason
my clutch petal has been dying off for a few months. noticed some fluid on the lower clutch line.
figured it was my line/slave cyl
bought a ceramic coated ss clutch line.it was the upper (my bad)
just bought a slave cylinder(i will do a small write up if my questoins answered)
bled the brakes properly
clutch pedal is still dead to the floor.
(ive searched)
what am i doing wrong?
thanks, jason
08-19-2010, 08:51 PM
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 28
Need Longer Disconnect
Haynes manual (also Nissan FSM? Don't recall exactly) says you need 24 hrs to clear the ECU. I believe them, as my ~45 min. disconnection did NOTHING. The codes were STILL STORED.
08-19-2010, 10:36 PM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Queens, NY
Posts: 7
2001 20th anniversary question
So I bought my 2001 20th anniversary edition 5 speed about a month ago it's the Icelandic pearl with black leather interior fully loaded heated seats the whole 9 yards and only 71,111 miles... This is my third max and needless to say it runs like a charm, anyway I was jus wondering if anyone knew whether or not a factory bra would fit the car considering the lip kit in the front? If anyone knows holla. Thanks
Last edited by showtime; 08-19-2010 at 10:38 PM.
08-20-2010, 06:44 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 497
Sternzy,
All of your issues are because of the air leaks. Our cars are equipped with MAF, any air leak will cause problems in the fuel metering. Please fix them one way or another. Even a duct tape might be better if you can not afford to get the new ducting!
- Vikas
All of your issues are because of the air leaks. Our cars are equipped with MAF, any air leak will cause problems in the fuel metering. Please fix them one way or another. Even a duct tape might be better if you can not afford to get the new ducting!
- Vikas
08-20-2010, 10:25 PM
Sorry if this is a dumb question, but to remove the driver and passenger seat, do you just unbolt the 4 bolts on the bottom of the seat, or are there connectors for example to the battery for the pwr seats.
08-24-2010, 09:54 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 32
dumb and vague question
I have an 01 anniversary edition, and my car shuts off some times whenever I have it in park, it doesn't do it all the time just sometimes, but it doesn't do it if I have it in drive and just sitting there, its been doing that for a little while and my check engine light just came on this morning, does anybody know what could be the problem, any help is appreciated thanks
08-24-2010, 10:32 AM
Hi Guys,
I'm currently looking into a 2001 Maxima, and just want to be sure that the mileage hasn't been messed with. I am planning on running a compression test on the engine. I was wondering if anyone knows what the compression ratio should be if the car is around 120,000 kms (75000 mi). I know brand new it is at 10:1, but I'm not sure what it should be at when its a little worn out.
Thanks
-J
I'm currently looking into a 2001 Maxima, and just want to be sure that the mileage hasn't been messed with. I am planning on running a compression test on the engine. I was wondering if anyone knows what the compression ratio should be if the car is around 120,000 kms (75000 mi). I know brand new it is at 10:1, but I'm not sure what it should be at when its a little worn out.
Thanks
-J
So I bought my 2001 20th anniversary edition 5 speed about a month ago it's the Icelandic pearl with black leather interior fully loaded heated seats the whole 9 yards and only 71,111 miles... This is my third max and needless to say it runs like a charm, anyway I was jus wondering if anyone knew whether or not a factory bra would fit the car considering the lip kit in the front? If anyone knows holla. Thanks
wire harness for power seats (and heated if equipped)
08-24-2010, 11:16 AM
08-24-2010, 03:31 PM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 6
NMEX ... Im sorry to bug you with this ... but how do I search for a thread anything related to ...
Well when I turn my car off and remove the key, the dashboard lights up and the radiator fan stays on... I have to remove the negative post and then I can start the car up fine again. The pre-lude to this was 5 days ago i stomped on the gas the car acted like the engine was dieing and i pulled over and noticed these symptoms.
Well when I turn my car off and remove the key, the dashboard lights up and the radiator fan stays on... I have to remove the negative post and then I can start the car up fine again. The pre-lude to this was 5 days ago i stomped on the gas the car acted like the engine was dieing and i pulled over and noticed these symptoms.
08-24-2010, 04:58 PM
08-24-2010, 05:37 PM
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 18
I have two questions...I had a '92 Toyota Camry with 262,000 miles and have upgraded to a 2006 Maxima SE. Since getting the vehicle I have noticed a grinding noise when accelerating around 1500 rpm. It goes away once either above or below 1500rpm and only makes the noise during acceleration. I read some threads about a exhaust bracket or something. Where is this located...I don't know really my way around so a description and a picture would be helpful.
2nd question: The front bumper doesn't have a mounting point for a license plate, and previous owner drilled holes into the bumper to mount license plate...only foam behind so no way to keep license plate from falling off? Any suggestions how to mount properly and cover holes without plate falling off?
Thanks
2nd question: The front bumper doesn't have a mounting point for a license plate, and previous owner drilled holes into the bumper to mount license plate...only foam behind so no way to keep license plate from falling off? Any suggestions how to mount properly and cover holes without plate falling off?
Thanks
08-24-2010, 05:40 PM
I have two questions...I had a '92 Toyota Camry with 262,000 miles and have upgraded to a 2006 Maxima SE. Since getting the vehicle I have noticed a grinding noise when accelerating around 1500 rpm. It goes away once either above or below 1500rpm and only makes the noise during acceleration. I read some threads about a exhaust bracket or something. Where is this located...I don't know really my way around so a description and a picture would be helpful.
2nd question: The front bumper doesn't have a mounting point for a license plate, and previous owner drilled holes into the bumper to mount license plate...only foam behind so no way to keep license plate from falling off? Any suggestions how to mount properly and cover holes without plate falling off?
Thanks
Thanks
And just FYI, this is the 5th gen section ('00-'03), your car is a 6th gen.
08-24-2010, 05:43 PM
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 18
sorry one other question. I have the engine light on, and have had it reset twice for O2 sensor. Is it really important to replace the O2 sensor... or having the engine light continually on a big deal?
Thanks
Thanks
08-24-2010, 05:45 PM
A faulty/lazy O2 can significantly affect your fuel mileage as well as performance at part throttle. Are you sure it's actually an O2 sensor code, or is something else causing it? Have you tested the sensor?