I have a little over 150,000 miles on my 5th gen. When braking, I get vibrations in my steering. Also, it only happens when braking from speeds 50 mph or higher...no vibrations during driving only braking. What could cause that?

 

Your rotors are warped. You might need to change them.

 

Hi all,
Just recently my car has developed an attitude where the engine stumbles a lot when it's wet/humid, engine's cold, and especially when it's low on gas. I'm going to be doing some love soon (plugs, tranny flush, brakes) and wondering what might be a worthwhile thing to do to possibly eliminate this. Car's got 144K miles on it, 2003 GLE.

 

Hey, I have an 01 Maxima GLE that I just bought. After having it in my possession, I realized that the interior lights turn off as soon as I turn on the headlights. I'm not sure what the problem is, but I do know that the previous owner had a sound system in it so maybe that might've caused the problem. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!!

 

Had the exact same problem. Got rotors machined and pad replaced. (dont think pads had ne thing to do with it though)

 

So i am about to buy a hid kit for fogs and i want them to look like the stock hids. Would it be a 6000K kit?

 

I'm looking to buy Illumina's and add Progress springs and I was just curious as to what people thought of that combo. Everything I've searched came back with 2-6 year old posts. Thanks

 

i would also like to know this. and where can I find halo fogs for an 02-03 model. would the 00-01 fit? i dont think it can bud IDRK. or maybe just some projector fogs. either one

 

Can a 99 maxima SRI fit a 01 if you use the 01 MAF sensor adapter, if so what size should it be? thx guys.

 

Probably more like 4300k

6k is a clean white light, but it's not OEM.

 

4300k is going into a yellowish halogen color. The stock HIDs are a white hint of blue ish color.

 

Hello org members.

I've been searching and using this forum to help get an old 2000 maxima back in good condition for a while now.

I have recently hit a snag and could use some troubleshooting advice. I just replaced the fuel filter with parts i received from Dave B. After I reassembled the pump and hooked everything back up to try and start the car, i get problems.

The car cranks and cranks but won't kick over (lack of fuel?) I hear the pump running for a few seconds after stop cranking to re-pressurize the line and the lines have pressure in them (sprayed a bit when i unhooked them). What should I check next?

*edit* the car started up just fine before i changed the filter

 

That's what I'm gonna do when I get around to doing my suspension. Everything I've heard says it's a great combo (for looks and handling)... Do it!

 

Illuminas/Progress, IMO are FTW.

 

No. 4300K is the degrees and has nothing to do with whether it's a halogen bulb or HID. I don't know of any OEM that puts 6K HID's in their vehicles.

 

You can try ebay but i've heard the projectors don't distribute the light that well as OEM. and also you're gonna have a little space around the fogs with those projectors/00-01 fogs. Best fit and combo is the OEM 02-03 fogs on the 02-03 bumpers with 35w HID kit.

 

is there a senior member that can help me out? or anyone that really knows mechanics and the internals and **** abuot the engine. Basically if a accelerate really hard it sounds like a knocking noise it only happens when im going thru mayb 1st our 2nd gear. i have a at tranny. It happens whens not when im flooring the car or anything btu just when i want to accelarated moderatley fast it will make a distincting knocking/ticking noise rapidly...Idk what this is or what I need replaced can anyone clue me in the right direction? thanks. pm me for fastest reply.

 

Could be spark knock or rod knock. Most likely the former, not the latter.

It doesn't take an internal engine master to diagnose it.

Could be bad gad, bad KS, bad pre-cats, or even a bad MAF.

I;m guessing P0420.

Engine codes (SES light on or off).

 

I know that, i was just saying 4300k is that halogen color. I was just wondering what the Stock HID's for the 5.5 gen (not the halogen in 5th gen) was closest to (degree wise) so i can get that for my fogs.

 

I have a 2002 Nissan Maxima QX SE Plus 3.0 Auto (A33 Series - and please
note this is a UK car, not american, in case it makes a difference) that is
currently experiencing cooling problems. The garage found the radiator to be blocked and have a new rad on order.

At the bottom of the rad, and integral to it, is an oil cooler pipe for the
automatic transmission. When the mechanic disconnected the pipes to lift out the rad he expected a certain amount of oil to come out but they were dry - and I do mean bone dry. No oil has been anywhere near those pipes for a long time, he reckoned. He said that he's come across situations where the oil cooler pipe in the rad has been leaking so the pipes from the auto box have just been joined together effectively bypassing the cooler pipe, but that wasn't the case here. The pipe in the rad has not been blocked in any way as he could/can blow air through it (and no oil came out then either).

So to my question:

Is there some sort of valve within the automatic transmission that only
opens when the fluid gets hot enough to need cooling down, and in this case it's just never been hot enough to need diverting to the cooler, or should there be a permanent flow of fluid from the gearbox to the cooler and back again?

I should say that I've had the car for two years, it drives like a dream and
I've never noticed a problem with the auto box at all, apart from over the
last 6 months I've noticed downshifts becoming slightly jerkier and when
going from neutral to drive there's a slightly harsher jerk than there used to be, but these really are very small changes from normal. ATF fluid level is normal and no colour change.

This really would not have come to light if it had not been necessary to
remove the radiator but, now that it has, is it a problem?

The pipes in question are marked as number 6 in this diagram http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...o/radiator.jpg

 

Welcome.

After looking at the service manual, there is a oil cooler relief valve with springs located in the lower valve body of the transmission. One of these maybe jammed with debris or otherwise defective. I would have your mechanic drop the valve body and check there. It's not good for your transmission oil to get overheated, so it may have caused problem for you.

 

Thanks very much for that Mark, that's brilliant and much appreciated

 

I've taken the pump out and disassembled it and then put it all back together. I hear the pump prime the fuel line when i turn the key to the on position, but still i can't get it to start after several cranks. After i stop trying i hear the fuel drain back into the tank through the return side.

I've unhooked the negative battery terminal each time before i unhook the pump, could I have affected the MAF or other electronics?

Anybody input is greatly appreciated!

 

Okay, I need to change my catalytic converter, dealer is charging me an arm and leg. planning of doing it myself. has anyone done it them self? i was just planing of changing the catalytic converter under the car. Is there more than one?

 

Tell us what engine codes and problems you are having first, but changing the cat is a piece of cake.

 

I really dont know, my check engine light is on so took it to the dealer and they told me that my cat was bad, they told me the price almost killed me. so i did some research on how to change the cat doesnt look that hard. need to know if there is more than one cat. i was just planing of changing the one under the car. is there more than one. thanks for the reply

 

Ok i found spirilis write up on changing the fuel filter and noticed the one thing i did incorrectly. The black grommet that stays on the pump got pulled off on the old filter. Not knowing about it I had everything assembled without it. I installed the grommet correctly and it worked.

 

Go by a Autozone type store and they will read the codes for free. Also, don't ever pay dealership prices. You can get a aftermarket cat for a lot cheaper then OEM.

 

Will do that tomorrow. thanx

 

if i buy lowering springs do i need new struts also or will the stock ones be fine with the lowering springs on them?

 

No takers? Seems to be more affected by how full the gas tank is than anything. New filter? New pump? How much do those suck to install?

 

I want to do the Gauge light conversion like what was done in this thread.
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...my-gauges.html

My question is, are there going to be hot spots on the gauges if i use leds from v-leds #194?

 

That's my thread it should end up looking pretty good I think as long as you make sure you use at least 0.5w HIGH POWER LEDs.

 

ok cool. I saw that you also put leds under ur CC. is there any plug and play method to put lights under there to shine down. (like a way to bypass soldering leds to the board)

 

My wife has a 2000 SE (leather, heated seats, side air bags, etc.). So an upper end model. I have spent a lot of money on this car in the past year: new tires, new front struts, new CV joints. I recently tuned it myself which isn't hard but now I am going to replace the mass air flow sensor because it still isn't running right. Oh, I forgot to mention I had two air sensors replaced as well. Car has about 120,000 miles on it. Anyway, I plan to start trying to work on it myself as much as possible. My question is about the blower (AC, Heater). It just stopped working. I have checked fuses and they seem okay. I plan to remove the glove box and replace the motor. The fan is not working at all and I think I can hear a click behind the center vents when I try to cycle it on and off.

I have a Haynes manual but want to get something with more detail. Recommendations? Also, what else should I consider checking? Lights for fan come on but the fan isn't working at all. Switch or resistor?

Thanks, OldPart1

 

i have a 03 se and my headlights got messed up. so i ordered some online and the plugs dont match the stock plugs. any help??

 

Check to see whether or not the blower motor is actually getting power (or feed it power/ground and see if it works), that's the next step in diagnosis.

You have told us absolutely zero helpful information. What exactly doesn't match up? Why don't they (connector shape, pin count, etc)? Where did you order the headlights from, and what part number are they?

Pictures are pretty much the only way you're going to be able to get your situation across.

 

Haha, sorry about that. Hopefully this link works.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...em=#vi-content
If you see the back of it, there are two plugs. The one on the right side, where 2 go into 1, that plug is the same size as the stock one but has 3 prongs. The stock plug only has 2 holes.
Then there is the big black plug that you can see the back of. That doesnt match anything. There are two stock plugs on my car, but i dont have a pic of them. My car is a stock 2003 SE.

 

I had my alternator replaced in my 5.5 and when I got it back I noticed a buzzing (think raspberry sound) on acceleration in 1st and 2nd gear. As the car starts going the sound goes away. it doesn't happen in idle or in neutral. I brought it back to the shop but on the way way there, the sound disappeared. The mechanic looked it over anyway and couldn't find anything wrong with the alternator and advised me to bring it back if it starts again.

I'm wondering if this could be totally unrelated to the replacement of the alternator and be the timing chain? I plan on bringing it back tomorrow on my day off.

**edit**
Ok I took the car out for a drive after work this morning to really observe what I was hearing.
Its more like a vibration. And because its not a constant sound I'm assuming its not the timing chain. One thing I noticed is it feels like I'm stepping on the breaks when I'm not. When I was going down hill, in 4th gear, foot off the breaks it felt like the car was doing to come to a stop if I didn't step on the gas.

Any idea whats going on?

Thanks



2002 SE
120K miles

 

I would check your vacuum lines, replace your pcv valve, and replace the fuel filter. There is not really a "fuel filter" per say if you look a the maxima manual, but it does have one. They say it lasts the life of the car and it obviously does not given the experiences other members have had with them on here. I changed mine out at about 150,000 miles and it was not looking good when I pulled it out.

Check the link on a how-to. It really isn't hard to do, just take your time, work in a ventilated area, and make sure you de-pressurize the fuel system before starting any work.

http://www.shiftice.com/fuel_filter.htm

If you go to a dealer they will likely try and sell you the entire assembly. The part you are looking for is in the link below:

http://www.courtesyparts.com/kb_sear...1957_1973_1978