Anyone have any idea on how to get my fuel economy up? my car's computer is telling me I'm getting 27mpg, but I would like to see it higher if I could.

 

tune up, and learn to drive like your gramma

but damn, 27MPG, mix of city and highway? That's better than my GrandAm. Seems to be a good number from what I read on here.

 

ya, I'm going to give it a tune up this weekend when I tackle the rear valve covers. my last car got 31mpg, so I might just have wishful thinking... I do alot of freeway driving.

Another question, does anyone steering wheel controls light up? Mine don't and that just seems odd to me.

 

Smokin5s on the tail light harness it conected right in. Now the problem was with the hosing. The hole for the brake light was to small. Meaning that particular hole will be to big for your brake light giving your 5.5 uses a different bulb there (smaller than 5th gen). I thought about doing what pmohr said and exchange the housings with the original tail lights but it felt like i was gonna brake it. So like i said i riged it with some electrical tape. And on the steering wheel deal mine dont light up either. Didnt think much of it till now. thought it was normal.

 

Sorry if this is a repost when i start my car the odd time it will run funny and the tcs and slip light will be on... I will drive my car a few blocks then it will run fine again... any help would be appreciated it seems either tcs sensor might be wacky or its running on only some of the cylinders???

Thanks peeps

 

my car came with 1 key and 1 remote... if I purchase a new remote online, how do I program the car to work with it?

 

Hello all. I am a new member and have owned and love my 03 Max for a year now. Hope to gain knowledge as much as I can about the 5 gen from all of you guys.

Future plan is to do a complete header to catback via Cattman. Just wanted to know other options that may be better than this one.

 

There is no TCS sensor, TCS uses the ABS sensors to detect wheel spin.

Get a code reader, pull the codes. I don't remember if you need the nissan-specific reader to get the ABS/TCS system codes.

Also, check whether your battery indicator bulb on the dash works. If the battery, tcs, and slip lights come on all at once it's an indication of a failing alternator. I know, it's not obvious.

 

If you learn to use the search function, you will have your answers much faster. Here is a link to your answer that I got from searching for "program remote".

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...tructions.html

 

I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima SE and it has low profiles on it.
I would like some more air and rubber between me and the road for a smoother ride and I get conflicting sizes online. What is the stock size rim and tyre that I should be looking at ?

Thanks in advance.

 

What size do you have now?

 

Inside the center console lid list the OE size your car came with.white sticker with green writing.

 

I have 00' Max SE with a ACT Stage 3 Heavy Duty Clutch kit and I need recommendations on heavy duty master cylinder like crazy. Ive gone through 3 in 2 months. Please help! Thank you!

 

I found it thanks!

honestly, I suck at the search function, I remember a post talking about replacing the oil pan, but I can't find it anywhere with part numbers... I replaced my rear valve cover tonight as well as the HP Power steering line, and I noticed my oil pan is rusted to hell and it develops dripping oil from just sitting... I went to rock auto but can't find a oil pan for the 6 speeds.

Edit, Autozone has one for $70 plus gaskets... anyone online that would be cheaper? I typically use Rock Auto, but like I said, no luck with finding the part.

 

The oil pans are the same, regardless of trans type.

There is no lower oil pan gasket, it's just RTV.

$70 from AZ, or $78 from the dealer (http://www.courtesyparts.com/11110a-...3-p-52507.html)...hell, Dave B probably has a better price than that.

 

Hey everyone!

I posted a few weeks ago about a problem I was having and while I was able to fix part of it, I now have another issue. I'm just about to give up on my car because I don't know what to do.

Originally the idle was out of wack ... changed air sensor and IAV, that didn't do anything as I ultimately needed to change the ECM. I took it to the dealer to have it reprogrammed, that fixed the up and down idling and the car no longer dies and starts up just fine. The problem that I have now that I DID NOT have before it went into the dealer is this ... which is kind of hard to explain. When I am in 1st gear and take off at a slower speed right around 1500 rpm it's like it gets stuck and then if I step on the pedal and give it more gas the car jumps, as if I am releasing the clutch when the car is in gear, that's the exact feeling it gives. If I take off with a little more acceleration it won't do it it also does not do it if the car is cold. I don't know if I'm making sense the way I'm explaining it but I can't describe it any other way. I took a video of the rpm when I have the car in neutral, below. I was also looking under the hood and there is a little hose that has a small crack in it, connected to this black box, which I'm not sure what it is (pic attached). Can this affect the car and give me the problem I am having? I called the dealer and told them my issue and told them it was after they reprogrammed the ECM and they said it was my throttle body but before I changed the ECM I had put in another throttle body and that did not make any difference so I opted to put the original one back in, do you think that could still be the problem? I've spent over $2,000 the past couples months and I can't afford to put any more into it and I can't keep playing the guessing game with this car. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

It's a 2001 Maxima with 134, 000 miles 5 speed manual.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...121_205810.jpg

http://s32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...121_205151.mp4

 

I purchased Grabriel ultra shocks/struts and strut mounts for my car and after one day of driving I notice a lot of squeaking among other noises that sounded like something is loose. And it's still rides rough and much more noiser than before the job was done. My mechanic told me after taking it back in to him three times that there was nothing he could do because I bought cheap shocks/struts from Auto Zone and that he is sure he installed them correctly. I am a female that does not know too much about cars and don't know if something was installed correctly or not. Can someone help me as to what the problem maybe. My mechanic told me to buy better quality shocks/struts for him to reinstall in which I will need to pay him again. I don't have money to waste.

 

Sandra your squeak noices are most probably coming from the strut mounts. If the car didnt make squeak noises before you can put the old mounts back (if they still good) and itll solve the squeaking issue. I changed my struts about 6 months ago and i only changed the struts. My strut mounts where still good. I used kyb struts althou i dont recommend them for you since you looking for confort. kyb are stiff struts.

 

Hey all. I just did the ac bypass with a 37 inch 6 rib belt and noticed that the belt is rubbing on itself under the idler pulley. I'm assuming this is bad...and don't want to drive it until it's fixed. Couldn't find any information on this particular issue, and I've read of plenty of people with 2000 max's who use that exact belt...should I just loosen the idler pulley a little? It really looks like something must be different than from pics and diagrams I've seen...because it doesn't even look that close to being clear...any help would be much appreciated!

 

If the belt is rubbing, then the belt is too big. You will have to get a smaller one. The bypass belt should be 920mm, or 36.2 inches. I suspect that the belt you have was mis-labeled and is bigger than 37 inches.

 

Sorry to resurrect this oooold thread.

I'm having the same issue on my 2k3 auto...110k miles. Seriously bogs down/hesitates on hard acceleration. I've been looking at every hesitation thread i could find on here.

Can anyone tell me if the issue that started this thread was ever resolved and what the root cause was? It's exactly what i'm experiencing.

Many thanks!

 

The stock A/T just isnt good, plane and simple. Warm your engine up before you drive to allow the tranny fluid to warm up, that will help a little bit. You might also have a leak somewhere. A tranmission controller module from JWT will transform the stock transmission into what you could call "good" performance. Expensive option though

 

Hi, I am new here and have a question regarding wheel fitment. I would appreciate if someone could let me know if the following wheels and size would fit on my car without problem. I got a 2003 Maxima GLE

TSW Donington 18 x 8 +20 offset 5x114.3

Thank you

 

Hay guys I'm going to be buying a 5.5 gen Australian spec maxima 3.5l 4sp auto. My concern is the tranny and how realiable is the 4sp autos.? I've heard good and bad and even some people saying there really strong. My question is the australian maxima is it the same gearbox and engine as the American. I had a look at one yesterday and compared an American spec model. Looks exactly the same. Only reason I'm comparing is because I wanna buy some parts from America like exhaust cattman. Nwp block of plates ect. Is the exhaust compatible to the American model? It's got twins at the back stock. Looks very restrictive.

 

yeah i dont think it's the tranny. It does this when the engine has been running for awhile. It's when passing on the highway and you really punch the gas that it boggs down.

 

Does it downshift and still feel bogged when you press the gas down furthur? Try turning the OD off and see if it still seems sluggish when you try to pass at highway speeds. I dont use the OD unless im going on a long HWY trip because when you try to pass with the OD on you almost have to press it to the floor to downshift

 

i actually feel the bog when it downshifts. for example: when i'm entering the highway or passing someone and i give it alot of gas, nothing happens for a few seconds then the RPM's start to increase alittle and then a few seconds later it really pulls like it's supposed to...its not downshifting/changing gears when it's supposed to... I remember when i would mash the pedal, the car would really jump, but no more...

 

ask for a 01 maf at napa they have the iat sensor in them and for half the price of a 03 maf.

 

oh and my gas mileage is pretty crappy too. was 17mpg city a few weeks ago. i had cleaned the MAF (i know it's useless on a 2k3 but i was desperate). MPG are now at 21/22 city. not bad but they used to be at 27 consistently since 2003. there's just a general lack of power anymore.

here's what i'm thinking:

1. knock sensor - temporarily replace with a 570k resistor - see if that helps
2. Get a new MAF (car is not throwing any codes)

 

yeah i could see how a loss in vacuum might screw things up . Try replacing that hose and see how it reacts under the same conditions as you were having your problem.


It is very possible your old ECM had adjusted the settings to compensate for the loss of vacumm , and since you have a new ECM in there it, doesn't know what to do with the extra positive pressure.

Its worth a shot and it looks like you can buy some cheap bulk hose form like Home Depot and replace it .

Otherwise i would say it might be IACV related

 

i installed GR-2's and they are not stiff at all... i love them

 

tires correct size?

 

this might be due to our cars using an electric speedo ...


cable does not exist, therefore you cannot find it ...sounds like your needle/gauge might be fukked up

 

Wow nice know that!!! I was wayyy off

 

Srry to hear you having such a problem with your car. It does sound like maybe a vacum problem but before you change that hose you can just tape it good with some electrical tape and drive to see if that fixes the problem. That way you get that checked out of possible things causing the problem.

Its hard to beleive your car has given you so much problems. All i got with mine was a bad maf senso. 190k still going as new

 

Exactly right. Started with the 3rd gen models introduced in 1989.

 

My wife and I have owned two Maxima's in the past 96 & 2000 and just bought a 2003 SE auto fully loaded for my son. I have spent a few hours reading/searching on this forum and have found it very informative & educational.

Here is a little bit about the car: Silver/black int, leather, bose, heated seats/steering wheel, (comes in handy in Green Bay!),HID, 150,000 well maintained miles. We haven't driven it many miles yet but haven't discovered any major issues. It did come with brand new winter tires on stock rims. It also has summer tires (225/50/17's) that are in ~70-80%.

We just had the muffler flange cut off and sleeved ($42) to cut down on the noise. I also had the headlights buffed out last night and they look great.

I am looking to do two purchases and would appreciate input:

1) Need to buy new summer rims. Found these Tire Rack:http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/Wheel...All&sort=Price
They also have the MSW Type 14 rim for only $79 each which is really good.

2) I am also considering putting coil overs on the car. Will coil overs be a bad idea with crappy Wisconsin winters? I have read a ton on this but wondered how I choose a local installer if going with Tein or BC Racing. Also, where is the best place to buy the coil overs? Are there any group buys?

I don't want to dump too much money into the car but want it to handle well.

Thanks for all the great info!

 

There you go. I wanted stiffness thou but without knowing i put kyb. Im glad thou! plus moog front end parts to

 

Good start on the car.i would get coilovers but keep in mind it is a good ideal to swap them out in the winter time.i currently run BC in the summer and tokico Blues in the winter.

 

Thank you to all who gave their advice on this post and my previous post. I decided to give it one more shot today and took it into a little shop near my house ... I am DONE with the dealer!! Turns out that the TPS voltage was low and all they had to do was readjust it and then do a relearn procedure...they said that should have been done at the dealer when they reprogrammed the ECM but apparently I threw that $300 down the drain because their job was incomplete. Thankfully this place diagnosed the problem and fixed it for $90. This has been a nightmare and $2600 hundred dollars later my car now runs like it should, I'm thankful to have come across the RARE and HONEST mechanic that I did!