Hey guys, I already posted the other day about the problems I was having with my maxima and I ordered another knock sensor and fixed my old harness. But while waiting for it to come In I plugged in a scanner I have that connects to my phone to read error codes and I cleared the knock sensor error code and now the car will rev like it is suppose to and it drives right, but at the same time it feels as if it don't have the acceleration it should have. But after a day driving out of no where it started acting up and not letting me go over 3k rpms.

My question is: is it safe to just keep clearing the error code so it will go over 3k rpms and drive somewhat normal?

 

Hi, I have a 2003 gle maxima and about two days ago it started making a strange squealing noise on the rear passenger side wheel. I check the forums and thought it could be a bearing, but that was described as a humming. The vehicle has about 90k miles.

I took off the tire and the caliper was free of any gouging and rotated just fine without any noise. I did not see any obstruction. I tried to take of the dust cap but I did not have any luck short of destroying it.

The noise happens regardless of acceleration or braking and usually occurs at lower speeds (15-30 mph). I took a short video of the noise and put it on youtube and it starts right around the 10 second mark (you will hear it screaming) and lasts a couple seconds (best i could do).

Any thoughts before I take it to a mechanic? IF it IS the bearing I will remove the dust cap even if I have to destroy it and buy a new one. Thanks!

 

Just a bandaid and smoke and mirrors. Fix it properly.

 

Ok thanks for the info

 

I just had a P0171 code. The MAF replaced and relearned still P0171. Bank 1 sensor 1 lean. I replaced O2 sensor and now showing P0172 bank 1 Rich. I replaced with a o2 sensor {BOSCH}. My car is Cali. spec I wonder if they gave me the Fed. spec would that read differently {RICH}!!! Will it best to just get from Nissan. Bosch Part # 13504 is what I installed. Does anyone have the correct part #??

 

I just bought a 2000 GXE with 175k miles and would like to keep it running well for many years and miles. Could someone please recommend a priority list of maintenance to perform to this end?

I assume the basics are changing coolant, ATF, plugs and PCV, just in case these were never done. Brake pads are good, and I was told that oil was just changed. What else should I do or have my mechanic check? Thanks!

 

where is the tranny fluid on my a/t 5.5

 

^^ It *should* be in the transmission...

The dipstick is just to the right of the engine cover. The drain plug is on the bottom of the transmission, 19mm bolt.

 

I can't really smell it but it's DARK

Time for fluid drain and fill?

 

*UPDATE*

I replaced the knock sensor on my 2002 nissan maxima se and then cleared the codes for it. I drove it for about a day and although it was letting me go over 3k rpms it still felt real sluggish and basically topped at 80mph in sixth gear to the floor. The next day i pulled out of my drive way and it once again would not go over 3k rpms. I hooked my scanner back up and got a mess of codes in this order: (some where on scanner twice)

P0455 (EVAP Control System)
P1448 (EVAP Air Leak)
P0650 (Malfunction Indicator Lamp Control Circuit)
P0327 (Low Input Knock Sensor)
P1448 (Evaporative Canister Vent Control Valve (Open).)
P0650 (Malfunction Indicator Lamp Control Circuit)
P0138 (Oxygen Sensor)
P0327 (Low Input Knock Sensor)



I Ordered new oxygen (upstream) sensor to replace.


Any other tips would be greatly appreciated!

 

Hello 5 Gen owners,

I just picked up my first 01 GLE Maxima. This sleek ride has 150k. $3800 is the price I paid for this ride and was wondering if I paid too much. It does need a IACV and maybe an O2 sensor. The heated seats function but there's a small rip on both the front driver side seat and passenger seat. Other than that the leather is in good condition. Soon to post before pics during the mods. My qusetion is how do I get the "service engine soon" light off??? The car runs great and did not miss a beat when I was running a 120 mph in cruise control. I do need help with mods on this ride but don't know where to start. I do want the most/best performance from this beast when I'm up again other Totoya Civic and Honda Accords. So please direct me into the right path for restoring this 01 GLE Maxima. Please advise on maintenance list with priorities.

 

Owners manual online will list the maintenance schedules. Any parts store in your area might loan the ODB2 code reader. Or pick one up for $100 or so.

Then check the FSM. Serious, no street racing.

 

+1 on the above.

Also, don't post your question in more than one thread, ever. Lastly, change your font style back to default.

 

Yes. Supposed to be obviously red. That is obviously brown.

 

I Replaced oxygen sensor and still same problem... running out of ideas, any advice would be great

 

exact same codes? I doubt it. Check for codes and come back wtih updated list.

have you cleaned or replaced your MAF yet? What about pre-cats/ they're next on the list.

 

Thanks for the response and yes I cleaned the MAF, I checked the codes again and it is reading two codes now:

p0327 (knock Sensor)
p0650 (malfunction Indicator Lamp Control Circuit)

 

Here is the descriprion of P0650 from the FSM. It says this will cause the "fail safe" mode of operation, i.e., rpm limited to 3K. Only problem is that it requires a second code that woul cause the check engine light to come on. The P0327 knock sensor is not one of those codes.



this is from section EC, page 455 or 457, depending on which printing of the FSM you have.

If you don't have a copy of the FSM, you can download one from here:

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/

 

Hi all,

Two months ago I bought a used 2000 Maxima GXE w/ ~43k miles on it. It was running fine up until recently. When the car is running and in park for more than ~30 seconds the engine shuts off and the Service Engine Soon, Battery, and Oil lights come on. This has also happened when I'm sitting in stop & go traffic, moving at very slow speeds. I'm considering replacing the MAF sensor and possibly the O2 sensor. I would appreciate any and all opinions on this problem. Thanks in advance!

 

it's your MAF sensor, this sounds exactly like what i experienced when i first got my maxima

 

Would cleaning it solve the problem, or should it be replaced? I haven't shopped it too much but I'm seeing around $300 for a replacement MAF, no bueno.

 

The lights in the dash being on (SES, Oil, Battery, Oil) are normal for when the engine is not running. Is the SES light on when the engine is running?

Why are you considering changing the O2 sensor? It's very rare for an O2 sensor to cause a problem like yours.

Take the car to an auto parts store and ask them to read the codes before you start blindly throwing money at the car.

No guarantees that the MAF is causing your problem, either. Cleaning the MAF does not always "fix" a bad maf, so no guarantees on that. But it won't hurt. Also clean the the throttle body while you are cleaning things.

 

the MAF shouldn't cost more than 200, i believe mine was around 175 when i bought it at the dealership.. i haven't tried cleaning my MAF yet but that could be a cheaper solution if you don't want to dish out alot of money, also.. check your air filter, the guy at the dealership said that sometimes after market air filters like K&N will cause your MAF to go bad.. always use an OEM air filter

edit: here's a link to courtesy nissan for a MAF, it's only $87 bucks but i don't know how much shipping is http://www.courtesyparts.com/22680-m...-p-193638.html

 

Thanks for the reply. None of the lights are on when the engine is running, including the SES light. They only come on after the engine stalls. I'm not very familiar w/ O2 sensors so that was just a wild *** guess I threw out there.

As for the MAF, I'm probably going to put that idea on hold temporarily. A coworker of mine suggested cleaning the throttle plate, so I'm going to do that tomorrow before I spend any money on parts. Does this sound like a reasonable idea? Also, I'm going to check the air filter like you suggested picnik99. How will I know if the filter needs to be replaced?

I appreciate the input as this is my first car, so I'm not familiar with most routine maintenance procedures just yet.

 

Your co-worker and I are talking about cleaning the same part. The throttle plate is in the throttle body. Air filters are a normal change-on-a-regular-basis type of item. Nissan recommends every 30K miles. If you take the filter out and look at it and the side that the incoming air hits is all black, the filter change is overdue. Similiarly, if you don't know when the filter was changed, go ahead and do it.

 

Thanks for the reply. As it turns out, the throttle plate was the source of my issue. There was a good amount of buildup on the edges so I cleaned it off as best as I could. I'm no longer having the stalling issue while in park. I appreciate the responses guys

 

just purchased the car, its wrecked in the rear, so i cant drive it yet, are there any RPO codes or build #'s that can show if it has the LSD transmission? it would be awsome if it did, but i can live either way seeing as none of my manual cars have ever had it in the past.

matthew

 

Jack both front wheels up off the ground. With the transmission in neutral, rotate one of the wheels. If the other wheel rotates in the same direction, you have limited slip. If the other wheel rotates in the opposite direction, you don't have limited slip.

If your car is a United States model, you probably don't have limited slip. If the car is a Canadian model, then you have a good chance.

 

I've looked over previous post the last several weeks hoping to find a solution but I didn't see any related threads/post like mine. If I did over look any similar solutions I apologies & would appreciate a point in the right direction. My 2000 Max was/is the first car I bought/afford on my own means a lot to me but not tha WIFE!! That being said:

Had cooling system problems last couple weeks I've: (1) flushed radiator, (2) replaced thermostats, (3) fan entire assembly along w/resistors & fuses.

Was doing fine until this morning saw a small softball size puddle under Driver Side Wheel /Air Intake System - Reservoir tank was Bone Dry & Radiator was about half a liter low. The puddle/stain doesn't look that bad. I'm worried could be other issues or something I overlooked.

 

The IACV (Intake Air Control Valve) that is part of the throttle body, has engint coolant flowing through it. Therefore it has 2 small hoses attached, which could be the source of the leak.

 

I have a 2000 nissan maxima and one of my tail lights has been burning out for the last 2 weeks. I keep replacing them and they burn out. So I was replacing it again today, when I noticed I had no tail lights, just my brake lights came on. Whenever I turn my lights on, it was just my brake lights that were on. It looks like I constantly have my foot on the brake when i turn my tail lights on. I checked the fuse and it still is good. Any help would be much appreciated considering I can't drive it when it gets dark.

 

The brake / tail lights in the maxima use a dual filament bulb. Are you sure you're using the right bulb?

 

Hi,

I have a 2001 Maxima which will not pass emissions in my state because the catalyst monitor is not "ready". One of the three converters was bad and has been replaced. The others appear to be working properly (based on O2 sensor readings). The proper drive cycle has been completed multiple times, and the car has been driven for a full year but the monitor will not reset to "ready". There are no catalyst or O2 related DTC's. The dealer says the car needs a new "computer".

I would like to replace the ECM with a good used unit. My question is this: do I need to replace the ECM with an exactly identical part (same part number)? My ECM is marked A56-Q77 but I am having trouble finding one with the same number. Is it necessary to replace the ECM with an exactly identical pert or will any ECM be workable after the dealer reprograms the unit?

Thanks in advance!

 

My question is about replacing part or all of the exhaust for a 2001 AE.

A couple nights ago going out to my car I noticed fibers sticking out the tailpipe, which at first I thought was a 'banana in the tailpipe' joke I wasn't going to fall for, before realizing that I had just pulled thirty feet of fiberglass out of my exhaust.

I had the original exhaust on the car up until March 2010 when it started banging, took it to the dealer who said 'hey there's rust too' and thinking 10 years in was reasonable enough to replace the original, I said go ahead. It turned out they installed an aftermarket muffler "because if we'd used an original part it would have cost you hundreds more" which sounded louder and just wrong right from the start. SES threw O2 sensor problems over the years and then a MAF code this summer, so I replaced the MAF via local mechanic.

In going to replace this fiberglass problem (via the local mechanic), do I assume correctly that it's only coming from the back end of the pipe, and that I don't need to replace the whole exhaust system? That I need a stainless steel pipe and one specifically designed for the Anniv. Edition? And do I have to select a certain part type so it won't start triggering the SES with the new MAF again? I'd like a muffler (and I'm ignorant on exhaust so I don't even know the difference between a muffler/resonator/cat-back) that puts quiet as the priority, so if there's a brand that leans that way I'd like the recommendation.

 

I just replaced the motor on my 00 maxima and have one ground wire left. I cant see to figure out where it goes. Its about 6 inches behind my driver side motor mount, can someone please tell me where this goes? Thanks in advance!

 

Hi i just register to the forum, anayway
I have problems with mi Infiniti 00 (i dont find the proper thread to post my questions in I30/I35 sub-thread)
My car start to "shaking" since two months ago, being hot or cold.
3 weeks ago, im was driving in the highway, and the revs "lock" in 2500, now i have to drive very slowly to not pass from 2500!
In the scanning show me two codes P0100 and P1320
So I think it was the MAF but my gas consumption dont rise.

So what could be???

 

yes it's the MAF. Get a new OEM MAF

 

Hi you all doing. Been a while since i last poste. I have two short questions. First i chamged the face plates of my dashboaed meter. I found some white ones from an se model ( i think) and liked them better than the stock black ones my car had. I tried just plug and play the whole panel but speedometer didnt work. So thats why i just switched the dace plated however after reasembly my speedometer is off by 5 miles. Is there a way to calibrated it thar didnt require taking itbapart again and popong the needle bavk out? And the other thing was that now my ses light disapeared and hasnt come back. thank you all for your time have a great day

 

Hey there,
Wanted to see if I could get some perspective on an issue i'm having with my 2001 max (20th anvrsy, 170X miles). So I've had my SES light on for many months due to the coil issue. Last week I bit the bullet and replaced all coils. After a few days the SES light was still on, took it to auto store and got the p0430 code (bank 2). Tried the antifouler on the 02, although a fun afternoon of learning, didn't help and just added a bad 02 sensor code along with the same p0430 code. I took the antifouler off and BOOM ses light goes off. The issue is the car is running like ****. Exhaust shakes horrible on start up, trouble accelerating. So is it possible I destroyed an 02 sensor? Knocked the y pipe loose? If an 02 sensor is bad why no SES light?
Sorry for long post, super frustrated. Thanks in advance for any and all help!

 

Did it run poorly before you took the antifouler off? If so, then it sounds like you have a clogged cat to be honest. If it ran fine before then you likely disconnected something on accident in the area you were working.