5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
#2202
ok thanks but I still have the problem with my max
maybe i can start a new topic on the possibilities of a car taking longer to crank then usual?
i'll even go as far to say possibly the starter or a vacuum leak? would a leak cause the car to need extra cranks to start up? it's very consistent and the car is taking the same exact amount of cranks to start everytime now 7-9!
maybe i can start a new topic on the possibilities of a car taking longer to crank then usual?
i'll even go as far to say possibly the starter or a vacuum leak? would a leak cause the car to need extra cranks to start up? it's very consistent and the car is taking the same exact amount of cranks to start everytime now 7-9!
#2203
Hey, I am looking to sell some stuff. My 12" soundstream rubicon subwoofer, alpine mrd-m605 mono amp, profile ap740 4 channel amp, subwoofer ported box, and an injen cold air intake (2002).
I WTB bose speakers for the 2002 maxima.
I WTB bose speakers for the 2002 maxima.
#2204
Originally Posted by replicant
how much do you think you all have spent, total, for your current mods (excluding car audio, alarm, tint, sound deadening). i'm sure those of you with superchargers or nos have spent a lil bit more. i'm just curious what i should be budgeting for the most common mods. i know "common" is a subjective term, but i just want some sort of ballpark. i'm mostly looking to do the basic suspension stuff: FSTB, RSB, eventually do a modest drop (something like 1.5/2 finger wheel gap), CAI, eventually full exhaust, and of course all of the lighting mods (interior and exterior), powerslotted front and blank rear rotors and new brake pads, lastly i'm already dropping about 3 large on some body work and paint job. i'm sure the cost also depends on GD's you've been involved with, ebay deals, etc etc.
thanks for the roundabout dollar amount info.
thanks for the roundabout dollar amount info.
mechanical mods=$0
#2205
I have a 2001 auto SE...I'm looking to make my car faster, not necessarily for track times (yet) but a faster commuter car. Would it be worth it for me to get a Cattman CAI? Most dynos I see on this site are for mt but since i'm a 2001 auto i know the results of my upgrade will be different. I just want to know if I'll see any real gains from it, or is there another road i should consider.
#2206
Originally Posted by Psyfa
I have a 2001 auto SE...I'm looking to make my car faster, not necessarily for track times (yet) but a faster commuter car. Would it be worth it for me to get a Cattman CAI? Most dynos I see on this site are for mt but since i'm a 2001 auto i know the results of my upgrade will be different. I just want to know if I'll see any real gains from it, or is there another road i should consider.
#2207
Originally Posted by bwinter7
That would give it sound, and a little more pep. A 5speed swap is what you want though....
#2208
Originally Posted by machinehead131
swap isnt really worth it in my my opinion. You can buy a whole car for the price of the swap.
#2209
Indicator(s) that transmission is slipping:
Ok, I have a 2000 Maxima, had it since June 05, and since then have done many things, one of which was having a transmission flush the following October the same year. Anyway, whenever I drive my car sometimes from a stop, I accelerate, 1st to 2nd goes well, 2nd to 3rd just as well, but sometimes from 3rd to 4rth takes a while. I noticed this only really happens when taking off slow, like on a residential street, but on maybe a freeway, or major road, everything shifts just fine. So I'm not thinking it's really slipping, just that it doesn't see the need to upshift to 4rth sometimes, because it doesn't happen all the time. Transmission fluid still bright pink or red so it's still good.
Also what are some really obvious signs that your transmission is slipping?
Ok, I have a 2000 Maxima, had it since June 05, and since then have done many things, one of which was having a transmission flush the following October the same year. Anyway, whenever I drive my car sometimes from a stop, I accelerate, 1st to 2nd goes well, 2nd to 3rd just as well, but sometimes from 3rd to 4rth takes a while. I noticed this only really happens when taking off slow, like on a residential street, but on maybe a freeway, or major road, everything shifts just fine. So I'm not thinking it's really slipping, just that it doesn't see the need to upshift to 4rth sometimes, because it doesn't happen all the time. Transmission fluid still bright pink or red so it's still good.
Also what are some really obvious signs that your transmission is slipping?
#2210
Originally Posted by Psyfa
I have a 2001 auto SE...I'm looking to make my car faster, not necessarily for track times (yet) but a faster commuter car. Would it be worth it for me to get a Cattman CAI? Most dynos I see on this site are for mt but since i'm a 2001 auto i know the results of my upgrade will be different. I just want to know if I'll see any real gains from it, or is there another road i should consider.
#2211
Originally Posted by irish44j
Cattman no longer sells the long-tube CAI. They were made for Cattman by Place Racing, which is no longer in business. Sorry....
damn that sucks...what do you think my best option is now? I really like my car but sometimes (like when i'm driving to work) I wish I had something faster.
#2212
Your best option for power now. Y-pipe. Check the AM forum if you're really serious about it(making more power).
http://forums.maxima.org/forumdispla...sprune=-1&f=79
http://forums.maxima.org/forumdispla...sprune=-1&f=79
#2213
Another noobie post:
Thanks to you guys, I am ready to touch up paint chips on the side and rear bumpers. However, on my rear bumper I have a nice 3 in scratch and dent (it's been there since the car was 1 month old in 2002) and I want to try to pop it back out before retouching. Is this easier said than done? Does anyone know how to remove the rear bumper?
I've kept my car in perfect condition mechanically and in the interior, but the chips and dents are killing me.
THANKS!!!!
Thanks to you guys, I am ready to touch up paint chips on the side and rear bumpers. However, on my rear bumper I have a nice 3 in scratch and dent (it's been there since the car was 1 month old in 2002) and I want to try to pop it back out before retouching. Is this easier said than done? Does anyone know how to remove the rear bumper?
I've kept my car in perfect condition mechanically and in the interior, but the chips and dents are killing me.
THANKS!!!!
#2216
Originally Posted by sirjinx21jay
Hey everyone, i am in need of someone in the Washington DC area who has done the seaform thing to there car or who knows how to do it cause i am a lil scared to do it myself....... Appreciate it.....thanks
#2217
Originally Posted by gbwillner
Another noobie post:
Thanks to you guys, I am ready to touch up paint chips on the side and rear bumpers. However, on my rear bumper I have a nice 3 in scratch and dent (it's been there since the car was 1 month old in 2002) and I want to try to pop it back out before retouching. Is this easier said than done? Does anyone know how to remove the rear bumper?
I've kept my car in perfect condition mechanically and in the interior, but the chips and dents are killing me.
THANKS!!!!
Thanks to you guys, I am ready to touch up paint chips on the side and rear bumpers. However, on my rear bumper I have a nice 3 in scratch and dent (it's been there since the car was 1 month old in 2002) and I want to try to pop it back out before retouching. Is this easier said than done? Does anyone know how to remove the rear bumper?
I've kept my car in perfect condition mechanically and in the interior, but the chips and dents are killing me.
THANKS!!!!
#2218
Originally Posted by JimmyH
Use a heat gun to get it warm, then push it out from the inside.
Thanks! Do you know how to remove the rear bumper? I think I can figure it out, but anyone knows it would sure save me time.
PS- I also have a small dent on the driver side door. Is it worth it to take apart the door and pop this out?
#2220
So I got my new Max (2002 SE AUTO w 116k miles) a month ago. I checked the tranny fluid just now (yea, I know), and it doesn't look that great. I've heard you shouldn't get it flushed if you don't know how long it's been since a flush and that you should change it a few times, then get it flushed. Any truth to that or is getting it flush okay?
Thanks!
Also, my wife and her dad are hounding me about the car saying they think it's been wrecked before. I disagree. The paint is in ****ty shape all-around the car (common for a maxima) and her dad said he thought it was an after-market hood because it didn't say Nissan anywhere on it (ARGH!). They also mentioned the hood shaking on the highway (see TSB).
The transmission is shifting perfectly fine, no close shifts are sticking or anything. The car shakes when appling hard brakes (most likely warped rotors) and shakes above 65+ mph (probably needs to be balanced, tires look okay, maybe bad suspension).
Anyhow... Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Also, my wife and her dad are hounding me about the car saying they think it's been wrecked before. I disagree. The paint is in ****ty shape all-around the car (common for a maxima) and her dad said he thought it was an after-market hood because it didn't say Nissan anywhere on it (ARGH!). They also mentioned the hood shaking on the highway (see TSB).
The transmission is shifting perfectly fine, no close shifts are sticking or anything. The car shakes when appling hard brakes (most likely warped rotors) and shakes above 65+ mph (probably needs to be balanced, tires look okay, maybe bad suspension).
Anyhow... Any advice would be appreciated.
#2221
Question - What did you spend on this thing? I also just got a '02, but a 6MT. Seems to be a lot of problems/questions as of now to be willing to buy that car. I got mine for 9500 running great with no problems. Good luck to you
#2223
Originally Posted by gbwillner
Thanks! Do you know how to remove the rear bumper? I think I can figure it out, but anyone knows it would sure save me time.
PS- I also have a small dent on the driver side door. Is it worth it to take apart the door and pop this out?
PS- I also have a small dent on the driver side door. Is it worth it to take apart the door and pop this out?
By the way, my dent also featured a tear, so I had to fill mine with bondo and paint the whole area. Which is noticeable.
#2224
Originally Posted by Pilkmax3355
anyone know how to change the climate control to farenheit? car was put together in a factory in canada i guess... i'm used to farenheit
this is the only thread I could find
I am surprised that you cant...
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ius+Fahrenheit
#2225
Originally Posted by fldash
So I got my new Max (2002 SE AUTO w 116k miles) a month ago. I checked the tranny fluid just now (yea, I know), and it doesn't look that great. I've heard you shouldn't get it flushed if you don't know how long it's been since a flush and that you should change it a few times, then get it flushed. Any truth to that or is getting it flush okay?
Thanks!
Also, my wife and her dad are hounding me about the car saying they think it's been wrecked before. I disagree. The paint is in ****ty shape all-around the car (common for a maxima) and her dad said he thought it was an after-market hood because it didn't say Nissan anywhere on it (ARGH!). They also mentioned the hood shaking on the highway (see TSB).
The transmission is shifting perfectly fine, no close shifts are sticking or anything. The car shakes when appling hard brakes (most likely warped rotors) and shakes above 65+ mph (probably needs to be balanced, tires look okay, maybe bad suspension).
Anyhow... Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Also, my wife and her dad are hounding me about the car saying they think it's been wrecked before. I disagree. The paint is in ****ty shape all-around the car (common for a maxima) and her dad said he thought it was an after-market hood because it didn't say Nissan anywhere on it (ARGH!). They also mentioned the hood shaking on the highway (see TSB).
The transmission is shifting perfectly fine, no close shifts are sticking or anything. The car shakes when appling hard brakes (most likely warped rotors) and shakes above 65+ mph (probably needs to be balanced, tires look okay, maybe bad suspension).
Anyhow... Any advice would be appreciated.
Flush away but do not power flush at a shop
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/335521/3
See that link.
#2226
Originally Posted by Bufflomike
#2227
Engine Pinging under light throttle
I know I've asked some questions about this before, but this time I've got more info, so I thought I'd fire away again.
My '02 I35 w/67,000km, all stock, is pinging (engine knock) under light throttle between 1500-2000rpm, sometimes up to 2300rpm or so. If I get on the gas harder, the ping will go away. It's worse in traffic when the engine is hot, or when I've got the A/C on. Premium fuel is always ran, in my area it's 91. I've now put a tank of 94 in it, no difference at all in reducing pinging.
I took it to the dealer, and they found no trouble codes. His diagnostic tool printed off this information:
Eng Speed: 700rpm
MAS A/F SE-B1: 1.38V
Coolant Temp: 91 degrees C
H02S1 (B1): .22V
H02S1 MNTR(B1): LEAN
A/F Alpha-B1: 108%
A/F Alpha-B2: 109%
VHCL Speed SE: 0 km/h
Battery Volt: 13.8V
P/N POSI SW: ON
PW/ST Signal: OFF
Load Signal: ON
Inj Pulse-B1: 2.6msec
Ign Timing: 16 BTDC
Air Con Relay: ON
Fuel Pump Relay: ON
Throttle Relay: ON
Cooling Fan: LOW
Does anyone see any issues with the above, other than the lean condition?
He pulled out a spark plug and compared it to a new one. He said the gap was wider than stock, and plugs should be changed. I compared them myself, but the wear certainly didn't look excessive to me, and I'm not sure a slightly wider than stock plug gap would cause pinging, would it? These plugs are rated to 169,000km, and I have 67,000km on the car. Even if I did a ton of idling, I don't think they'd be shot yet.
So in summary, they suggested:
Run fuel system cleaner through the engine.
Replace the spark plugs.
If problem persists, consider a new Mass Air Flow Sensor.
He says the MAF sensors on these cars slowly die, and often do not set off a code on the ECU until they're way gone. He says the MAF could be causing the lean condition as it's not reporting proper air flow to the ECU, therefore not supplying enough fuel.
I think he's right about the MAF, based on all the issues people have with them on the org. What do you guys think?
Can the MAF element be cleaned? Perhaps I've got buildup on it or something...
I'm just looking for the cheapest approach to finding a solution without it being a bandaid solution. I've already heard the suggestions of backing off timing (don't like that idea), catch can (sounds hokey), colder plugs (I ain't running NOS here), that's about I think???
Thanks!
Joe.
My '02 I35 w/67,000km, all stock, is pinging (engine knock) under light throttle between 1500-2000rpm, sometimes up to 2300rpm or so. If I get on the gas harder, the ping will go away. It's worse in traffic when the engine is hot, or when I've got the A/C on. Premium fuel is always ran, in my area it's 91. I've now put a tank of 94 in it, no difference at all in reducing pinging.
I took it to the dealer, and they found no trouble codes. His diagnostic tool printed off this information:
Eng Speed: 700rpm
MAS A/F SE-B1: 1.38V
Coolant Temp: 91 degrees C
H02S1 (B1): .22V
H02S1 MNTR(B1): LEAN
A/F Alpha-B1: 108%
A/F Alpha-B2: 109%
VHCL Speed SE: 0 km/h
Battery Volt: 13.8V
P/N POSI SW: ON
PW/ST Signal: OFF
Load Signal: ON
Inj Pulse-B1: 2.6msec
Ign Timing: 16 BTDC
Air Con Relay: ON
Fuel Pump Relay: ON
Throttle Relay: ON
Cooling Fan: LOW
Does anyone see any issues with the above, other than the lean condition?
He pulled out a spark plug and compared it to a new one. He said the gap was wider than stock, and plugs should be changed. I compared them myself, but the wear certainly didn't look excessive to me, and I'm not sure a slightly wider than stock plug gap would cause pinging, would it? These plugs are rated to 169,000km, and I have 67,000km on the car. Even if I did a ton of idling, I don't think they'd be shot yet.
So in summary, they suggested:
Run fuel system cleaner through the engine.
Replace the spark plugs.
If problem persists, consider a new Mass Air Flow Sensor.
He says the MAF sensors on these cars slowly die, and often do not set off a code on the ECU until they're way gone. He says the MAF could be causing the lean condition as it's not reporting proper air flow to the ECU, therefore not supplying enough fuel.
I think he's right about the MAF, based on all the issues people have with them on the org. What do you guys think?
Can the MAF element be cleaned? Perhaps I've got buildup on it or something...
I'm just looking for the cheapest approach to finding a solution without it being a bandaid solution. I've already heard the suggestions of backing off timing (don't like that idea), catch can (sounds hokey), colder plugs (I ain't running NOS here), that's about I think???
Thanks!
Joe.
#2228
I dont think you need new plugs, the gaps widen as they are used, the gapping spec on your hood allows for that. If the I35 has the same motor, I would suggest buying an 01 MAF, and adding the temperature unit (resistor) on to it, and poof, you have an 02 MAF for 1/4 of the money. There are write-ups on this subject. As for the pinging/knocking, my 93 used to do it all the time, with no consequence. Unless it is really, really loud, I wouldnt worry about it
#2230
I have a 2000 Maxima SE with automatic transmission. I usually can't move the shift lever out of Park without tripping the shift lock button with a screwdriver. I have removed the center console, disabled the air bags, and sprayed the shift mechanism and solenoid with WD40. Occasionally I can get the car out of Park in the normal way (seems to do better in warmer weather), but most times not. Any other possibility beyond replacing the shift lock solenoid? I've called 5 different dealers for quotes on a shift lock solenoid and got 5 different prices - 4 of 5 were in the range of $65 to $110, but one quoted $582 for the "complete assembly", whatever that is. Think this is the shift lock solenoid or could it have something to do with the brake light switch, since the brake must be depressed before you can shift out of Park?
#2231
Originally Posted by Larryw
I have a 2000 Maxima SE with automatic transmission. I usually can't move the shift lever out of Park without tripping the shift lock button with a screwdriver. I have removed the center console, disabled the air bags, and sprayed the shift mechanism and solenoid with WD40. Occasionally I can get the car out of Park in the normal way (seems to do better in warmer weather), but most times not. Any other possibility beyond replacing the shift lock solenoid? I've called 5 different dealers for quotes on a shift lock solenoid and got 5 different prices - 4 of 5 were in the range of $65 to $110, but one quoted $582 for the "complete assembly", whatever that is. Think this is the shift lock solenoid or could it have something to do with the brake light switch, since the brake must be depressed before you can shift out of Park?
#2233
Question about moving
Hi All,
I am excited to have found this great website. I have been reading through the sticky's and already found some great advice!
With that said, I have a question concerning my upcoming long move. I will be moving from Washington DC to Orlando FL (about 1100 miles). I have a trailer hitch installed on my 2003 Maxima. I dont have much stuff, so the total weight of the trailer and haul will be about 1500 lbs. Here are my questions:
1. Is this a bad idea, as it could be pretty rough on the transmission?
2. Should I flush my tranny first? I already looked through the sticky, and have decided not to do this myself. So should I take it to a dealer, aamco, or other?
3. How should I drive my car with this much weight? Is there an ideal speed?
4. Any other tips before I make the move?
Sorry for being a NOOB, but I just don't know enough about cars to make these decisions on my own
I am excited to have found this great website. I have been reading through the sticky's and already found some great advice!
With that said, I have a question concerning my upcoming long move. I will be moving from Washington DC to Orlando FL (about 1100 miles). I have a trailer hitch installed on my 2003 Maxima. I dont have much stuff, so the total weight of the trailer and haul will be about 1500 lbs. Here are my questions:
1. Is this a bad idea, as it could be pretty rough on the transmission?
2. Should I flush my tranny first? I already looked through the sticky, and have decided not to do this myself. So should I take it to a dealer, aamco, or other?
3. How should I drive my car with this much weight? Is there an ideal speed?
4. Any other tips before I make the move?
Sorry for being a NOOB, but I just don't know enough about cars to make these decisions on my own
#2235
Originally Posted by soonerfan
i wouldnt tow anything with a maxima...but thats just me.
if you plan to do it, i would install a tranny cooler. cheap and easy to do. it will keep the tranny from overheating.
if you plan to do it, i would install a tranny cooler. cheap and easy to do. it will keep the tranny from overheating.
Where would I get that done, or if its easy to install, is there an online tutorial?
#2237
Originally Posted by kevinhcraig
Where would I get that done, or if its easy to install, is there an online tutorial?
#2238
Getting the right launch
have an 03 SE HLSD with an Ctutch Masters stage 2 i believe (brought it modded) and an Injen Intake. I was running an 01 Acura CL Type S (auto) and i couldn't seem to get a good launch on him and i kept getting locked out of 2nd gear .I've only had this car for a couple of months and i really dont thrash on it. Any suggestions an how to get a good launch in these cars.
#2239
Smoked Tails
Hi, I'm new on here and can't post any threads. I recently bought a 2003 Maxima SE. Love the car but not the tail lights. I've seen some pics on here of smoked tails. I really like the look of them. Is this an aftermarket product or a DIY application. I've been checking everywhere on the web and Can't find these. Anybody know where to get some? Thanks for your input.
#2240
Originally Posted by Ezreggie
Hi, I'm new on here and can't post any threads. I recently bought a 2003 Maxima SE. Love the car but not the tail lights. I've seen some pics on here of smoked tails. I really like the look of them. Is this an aftermarket product or a DIY application. I've been checking everywhere on the web and Can't find these. Anybody know where to get some? Thanks for your input.