Click on the link and you will find yourself in a regional subforum for your area.

 

ok thanks but I still have the problem with my max
maybe i can start a new topic on the possibilities of a car taking longer to crank then usual?

i'll even go as far to say possibly the starter or a vacuum leak? would a leak cause the car to need extra cranks to start up? it's very consistent and the car is taking the same exact amount of cranks to start everytime now 7-9!

 

Hey, I am looking to sell some stuff. My 12" soundstream rubicon subwoofer, alpine mrd-m605 mono amp, profile ap740 4 channel amp, subwoofer ported box, and an injen cold air intake (2002).

I WTB bose speakers for the 2002 maxima.

 

headlights/tailights about $1000

mechanical mods=$0

 

I have a 2001 auto SE...I'm looking to make my car faster, not necessarily for track times (yet) but a faster commuter car. Would it be worth it for me to get a Cattman CAI? Most dynos I see on this site are for mt but since i'm a 2001 auto i know the results of my upgrade will be different. I just want to know if I'll see any real gains from it, or is there another road i should consider.

 

That would give it sound, and a little more pep. A 5speed swap is what you want though....

 

swap isnt really worth it in my my opinion. You can buy a whole car for the price of the swap.

 

I hear ya... but some people are attached to their car, i dont know. It would cost about 4-5k for one though, and a lot of time. Just get an intake, I have one from Berk Tech. and I'm happy with it...

 

Indicator(s) that transmission is slipping:

Ok, I have a 2000 Maxima, had it since June 05, and since then have done many things, one of which was having a transmission flush the following October the same year. Anyway, whenever I drive my car sometimes from a stop, I accelerate, 1st to 2nd goes well, 2nd to 3rd just as well, but sometimes from 3rd to 4rth takes a while. I noticed this only really happens when taking off slow, like on a residential street, but on maybe a freeway, or major road, everything shifts just fine. So I'm not thinking it's really slipping, just that it doesn't see the need to upshift to 4rth sometimes, because it doesn't happen all the time. Transmission fluid still bright pink or red so it's still good.

Also what are some really obvious signs that your transmission is slipping?

 

Cattman no longer sells the long-tube CAI. They were made for Cattman by Place Racing, which is no longer in business. Sorry....

 

damn that sucks...what do you think my best option is now? I really like my car but sometimes (like when i'm driving to work) I wish I had something faster.

 

Your best option for power now. Y-pipe. Check the AM forum if you're really serious about it(making more power).
http://forums.maxima.org/forumdispla...sprune=-1&f=79

 

Another noobie post:

Thanks to you guys, I am ready to touch up paint chips on the side and rear bumpers. However, on my rear bumper I have a nice 3 in scratch and dent (it's been there since the car was 1 month old in 2002) and I want to try to pop it back out before retouching. Is this easier said than done? Does anyone know how to remove the rear bumper?
I've kept my car in perfect condition mechanically and in the interior, but the chips and dents are killing me.

THANKS!!!!

 

Hey everyone, i am in need of someone in the Washington DC area who has done the seaform thing to there car or who knows how to do it cause i am a lil scared to do it myself....... Appreciate it.....thanks

 

i meant to type "their" and not there...... lol.....it is a late night......

 

http://forums.maxima.org/forumdispla...sprune=-1&f=14

 

Use a heat gun to get it warm, then push it out from the inside.

 

Thanks! Do you know how to remove the rear bumper? I think I can figure it out, but anyone knows it would sure save me time.

PS- I also have a small dent on the driver side door. Is it worth it to take apart the door and pop this out?

 

anyone know how to change the climate control to farenheit? car was put together in a factory in canada i guess... i'm used to farenheit

 

So I got my new Max (2002 SE AUTO w 116k miles) a month ago. I checked the tranny fluid just now (yea, I know), and it doesn't look that great. I've heard you shouldn't get it flushed if you don't know how long it's been since a flush and that you should change it a few times, then get it flushed. Any truth to that or is getting it flush okay?

Thanks!

Also, my wife and her dad are hounding me about the car saying they think it's been wrecked before. I disagree. The paint is in ****ty shape all-around the car (common for a maxima) and her dad said he thought it was an after-market hood because it didn't say Nissan anywhere on it (ARGH!). They also mentioned the hood shaking on the highway (see TSB).

The transmission is shifting perfectly fine, no close shifts are sticking or anything. The car shakes when appling hard brakes (most likely warped rotors) and shakes above 65+ mph (probably needs to be balanced, tires look okay, maybe bad suspension).

Anyhow... Any advice would be appreciated.

 

Question - What did you spend on this thing? I also just got a '02, but a 6MT. Seems to be a lot of problems/questions as of now to be willing to buy that car. I got mine for 9500 running great with no problems. Good luck to you

 

if you are talking to me, $7700

 

I dont think it is that hard, but it wasnt worth it for me. I just reached up there with my hand and pushed the dent out. Is the dent that high up that you cannot get your hand between the bumper and bumper cover?

By the way, my dent also featured a tear, so I had to fill mine with bondo and paint the whole area. Which is noticeable.

 

this is the only thread I could find

I am surprised that you cant...

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ius+Fahrenheit

 

Flush away but do not power flush at a shop

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/335521/3

See that link.

 

Thanks, I don't plan to power flush.

 

I know I've asked some questions about this before, but this time I've got more info, so I thought I'd fire away again.

My '02 I35 w/67,000km, all stock, is pinging (engine knock) under light throttle between 1500-2000rpm, sometimes up to 2300rpm or so. If I get on the gas harder, the ping will go away. It's worse in traffic when the engine is hot, or when I've got the A/C on. Premium fuel is always ran, in my area it's 91. I've now put a tank of 94 in it, no difference at all in reducing pinging.

I took it to the dealer, and they found no trouble codes. His diagnostic tool printed off this information:

Eng Speed: 700rpm
MAS A/F SE-B1: 1.38V
Coolant Temp: 91 degrees C
H02S1 (B1): .22V
H02S1 MNTR(B1): LEAN
A/F Alpha-B1: 108%
A/F Alpha-B2: 109%
VHCL Speed SE: 0 km/h
Battery Volt: 13.8V
P/N POSI SW: ON
PW/ST Signal: OFF
Load Signal: ON
Inj Pulse-B1: 2.6msec
Ign Timing: 16 BTDC
Air Con Relay: ON
Fuel Pump Relay: ON
Throttle Relay: ON
Cooling Fan: LOW

Does anyone see any issues with the above, other than the lean condition?

He pulled out a spark plug and compared it to a new one. He said the gap was wider than stock, and plugs should be changed. I compared them myself, but the wear certainly didn't look excessive to me, and I'm not sure a slightly wider than stock plug gap would cause pinging, would it? These plugs are rated to 169,000km, and I have 67,000km on the car. Even if I did a ton of idling, I don't think they'd be shot yet.

So in summary, they suggested:

Run fuel system cleaner through the engine.
Replace the spark plugs.
If problem persists, consider a new Mass Air Flow Sensor.

He says the MAF sensors on these cars slowly die, and often do not set off a code on the ECU until they're way gone. He says the MAF could be causing the lean condition as it's not reporting proper air flow to the ECU, therefore not supplying enough fuel.

I think he's right about the MAF, based on all the issues people have with them on the org. What do you guys think?

Can the MAF element be cleaned? Perhaps I've got buildup on it or something...

I'm just looking for the cheapest approach to finding a solution without it being a bandaid solution. I've already heard the suggestions of backing off timing (don't like that idea), catch can (sounds hokey), colder plugs (I ain't running NOS here), that's about I think???

Thanks!

Joe.

 

I dont think you need new plugs, the gaps widen as they are used, the gapping spec on your hood allows for that. If the I35 has the same motor, I would suggest buying an 01 MAF, and adding the temperature unit (resistor) on to it, and poof, you have an 02 MAF for 1/4 of the money. There are write-ups on this subject. As for the pinging/knocking, my 93 used to do it all the time, with no consequence. Unless it is really, really loud, I wouldnt worry about it

 

Colder plugs will help with the pinging, so yes, you may need to get new different (not necessarily new) plugs for your problem.

 

I have a 2000 Maxima SE with automatic transmission. I usually can't move the shift lever out of Park without tripping the shift lock button with a screwdriver. I have removed the center console, disabled the air bags, and sprayed the shift mechanism and solenoid with WD40. Occasionally I can get the car out of Park in the normal way (seems to do better in warmer weather), but most times not. Any other possibility beyond replacing the shift lock solenoid? I've called 5 different dealers for quotes on a shift lock solenoid and got 5 different prices - 4 of 5 were in the range of $65 to $110, but one quoted $582 for the "complete assembly", whatever that is. Think this is the shift lock solenoid or could it have something to do with the brake light switch, since the brake must be depressed before you can shift out of Park?

 

call DAVEB and he might be able to give you the best price. His number is in the stickies.

 

bump ft

 

Hi All,

I am excited to have found this great website. I have been reading through the sticky's and already found some great advice!

With that said, I have a question concerning my upcoming long move. I will be moving from Washington DC to Orlando FL (about 1100 miles). I have a trailer hitch installed on my 2003 Maxima. I dont have much stuff, so the total weight of the trailer and haul will be about 1500 lbs. Here are my questions:

1. Is this a bad idea, as it could be pretty rough on the transmission?
2. Should I flush my tranny first? I already looked through the sticky, and have decided not to do this myself. So should I take it to a dealer, aamco, or other?
3. How should I drive my car with this much weight? Is there an ideal speed?
4. Any other tips before I make the move?

Sorry for being a NOOB, but I just don't know enough about cars to make these decisions on my own

 

i wouldnt tow anything with a maxima...but thats just me.

if you plan to do it, i would install a tranny cooler. cheap and easy to do. it will keep the tranny from overheating.

 

Where would I get that done, or if its easy to install, is there an online tutorial?

 

You really don't want to get rev's high while towing. So just take it slow and get the tranny cooler....I personally wouldn't tow but it's up to you.

 

https://maxima.org/shoptalk/sub_modi...er/index.shtml

 

have an 03 SE HLSD with an Ctutch Masters stage 2 i believe (brought it modded) and an Injen Intake. I was running an 01 Acura CL Type S (auto) and i couldn't seem to get a good launch on him and i kept getting locked out of 2nd gear .I've only had this car for a couple of months and i really dont thrash on it. Any suggestions an how to get a good launch in these cars.

 

Hi, I'm new on here and can't post any threads. I recently bought a 2003 Maxima SE. Love the car but not the tail lights. I've seen some pics on here of smoked tails. I really like the look of them. Is this an aftermarket product or a DIY application. I've been checking everywhere on the web and Can't find these. Anybody know where to get some? Thanks for your input.

 

If you're referring to these, they are the stock tails on the 00-01 SE Maxima. You can do the conversion if you desire, though there is a bit of wiring involved.