I have a wierd battery drain. it has somthing to do with the electron battery fuse. i take it out no more drain from the battery. i put it in battery drain starts. i took the fuse out and started the car up. things didnt work once the fuse was out. 1. door light. 2. headunit. 3. door keycode "outside the car". and i have no idea what to do. can someone help?

 

you have a SOHC vg30e...

 

so really? The trans is Toast

 

Kane if you are able lol...do a voltage drop test on the fallowing circuits. 1. door light. 2. headunit. 3. door keycode, Basically it is a test to measure currant draw where there is suppose to be none Most likely one of the above circuits has a short to power (light socket) has power when door closed = Problem. I would start with the most likely culprit. The head unit, Pull the fuse out at the fuse box and see if you still have the same condition, then the light socket etc...

 

I've been lurking around here for quite a while. These forums are a great resource for Maxima information! I've got a problem that I think is somewhat unique. Hopefully, it is not and someone knows what's up. I'm driving a 91 Maxima. I believe it is a GE.

My car was having problems during acceleration and during it's idle. It would "chug" during acceleration and also while idling(sometimes even dying out). I've gone through everything I can think of: Wires, Plugs, Cap, rotor. I've check for vacuum leaks, I've cleaned several connections. Eventually, I decided that it was the Engine coolant temperature sensor(the one with two prongs). I pulled the connector off of it one day just to see how it ran with no signal and everything seemed to calm down. It still chugged a wee bit when it first started up, but my problem was mostly gone. Well, I figured that it might not be the best course of action to let my car continue to run without that sensor plugged in(it's there for a reason, right?) and I decided to replace it. I googled around and found what it took and bought it off ebay(i think). Put it in and the problems didn't go away, but they didn't seem to be as "violent". A week ago, I got to thinking that maybe I had the wrong part number and reordered the part from Amazon(which gave me the option to check if it was a part for my car) and replaced it again. Now, the same thing. No improvement unless that little bugger is unplugged. Any clues? The only thing that I haven't checked would be the MAF. I hear it's expensive. Does anyone think that would be worth a check? Maybe get it from a local pull-a-part if I could find it? Thanks for any help!

 

maybe a misfire check your injectors

ive got a question, the shop that installed my Sparco seats called me this morning and said they were digging into the depths of the back of the garage and found a Pacesetter part, brand new for the VG30E. He said he knew i want to go turbo but he said in the meantime or whatever it would be alright, $250 but he could go lower. worth it or no?

 

IM ALIVE unplug injectors one at a time with car running Careful with the tiny clips, and notice any difference, They are not too hard to replace. I had the exact same issue, ended up needing two of them, took about 1/2 a day to complete the repair, everything is pretty easy to get to up on top there. you will need new intake gaskets. Be VERY CAREFUL Not to drop anything in the holes you remove the injector from. what you want to check FIRST is injector pulse, going by your troubles with the CTS. you will need to hook up a test light to each injector terminal, Preferable an injector pulse tester. but a test light will work in a pinch. disconnect the coil wire, crank the engine and look for pulse flashed in the light, if none of present, then trace the wires back to the ecu and check for open circuit between ecu and injector terminal, if no open are present, your ecu is probably toast, You may want to do that with the coolant temp sensor as well. Bu the short cut, removing injector wire one at a time works the fastest. Hope this helps.

 

anybody wanna weigh in on my tranny issue. Thank you Mucho

 

you can get them cheaper on ebay.
but if that includes installation, i don't see why not. Just a reminder, pacetter is notorious for ill fitting parts on our car. it shouldn't be too big of a deal, tho, if they aren't charging but that (or less) for install.

 

It's good practice to quote someone you are replying to somebody. That way, we all know who you are talking to.

if your trans is toast, it's toast. buy new or rebuild it. at least it's not a timing belt...

 

i did do that i started pulling out every fuse and the one that stops the battery draw was the electon battery fuse. how do i do a voltage drop test?

 

its only a 5-10hp gain about right? i think i'll pass then, the complete Z31 turbo from a wrecked 300zx will cost me $100-$200 ($60 for the turbo, rest is other Z31 turbo setup stuff) and the $250 for the Pacesetter is juts parts only, not installed. kinda a fail to get the Pacesetter if i'm going turbo in a year or less

 

Hope links are okay

http://www.aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm

http://www.aa1car.com/library/battery_runs_down.htm

Check the circuit breakers as well. Sometimes a bad alternator diode can cause a battery to run down. A good diode should only pass current in one direction. If it leaks current in the opposite direction, it may keep the charging circuit on when the engine is not running, causing the battery to run down. This kind of problem can be diagnosed several ways. If your voltmeter has an AC (alternating current) scale, switch to that scale and observe the charging voltage with the engine running. If the meter shows any AC voltage, one or more diodes are leaking and the alternator needs to be replaced. The alternator's output can also be observed as a waveform on a digital storage oscilloscope (DSO) or an alternator tester that measures ripple voltage to detect this kind of problem. Or, just disconnect the alternator overnight and see if the battery stills run down. If the battery drain stops, you have found the problem. Replace the alternator.

 

Thank you for that.

 

I forgot to list that I have tried that already. I've had injector problems in the past and I have a little experience as far as they go. I appreciate the reply! It really only does this when it's cold(as far as I remember). Any other solutions?

 

thermostat, coolant temp sensor circuit, TPS, Coil, I have seen coils that have a hairline crack with these conditions, goes away when the engine compartment heats up, its a long shot. faulty ECU, it could be a hundred things, you just have to eliminate one at a time.

 

What about the TCM??? Could that be faulty? do they never go bad? Car will not shift from 1 to 2 without letting of the gas a 3k rpm. TPS has been replaced and adjusted. Any Ideas Folks???

Thank you for your input, much appriceted.

 

Can someone help me with installing new bulbs in my 89se Maxima's fog lights? I can seem to get to the screws on the back of the housing, the front bumper/lip is in the way, any way help on changing these out?

 

Hi everyone. I first posted back on page 117 about a rough-running engine. Thanks to this forum, I determined that injector #6 has gone bad and I have now pulled the fuel rail and all the injectors with it.

The injector pintles are really dirty with some caked-on carbon. I would like to clean them internally as well as externally. I have heard of pulsing injectors with a small battery while squirting carburetor cleaner into the fuel inlet in order to clean them. Can anyone visualize how this is done? Or has anyone even done it before?

 

have you checked the resistance of the injector? even if it's dirty, if the resistance is not 10-14 ohms, cleaning is pointless.

 

I'll double-check now.

1, 2, 3, and 4 have 12-13 ohms.

5 has 13.4.

6 doesn't even register. That's what makes me think that it's dead.

By the way, thanks again for the quick reply. It's a big help.

Oh, also, I understand. What I meant was, I'll replace the dead injector and then I want to clean the rest.

------------------------------------------

Later:

I just came back from taking out the sixth injector. It was really stuck!! I had to pound on it from the pintle end with a hammer. (I used a 7/16" deep socket as a driver.) Eventually, it popped out.

It's black dot, so looks like I can't order Bosch 62005 from Amazon. And I got a gift card for Christmas there... rats.

Since #5 is around 13.5 ohms, is it on its way out?

 

Okay, I want to put a 3.5 motor in my max. ive seen it done before and i have someone ready to do the swap for me but i want to put an M/T in it. is there a write up for an auto to manual swap out there? ive done some searching but no success. my second question is if i do the motor sway should i/can i put a 6spd in it? thanks in advance

 

*swap

 

anything is possible with enough money, but it would be easier to just turbo and 5spd swap than go with a 3.5

 

http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...ss-thread.html
but at the same time, what chrome says is true:
more hp, lower price, easier, you still have a car you can get parts for...

 

hi, recently my car has been running cold so I replaced the t-stat and that fixed the problem. Now the cooling fans don't come on and it overheats. I replaced the coolant temp sensor and the fans only come on when the sensor is unplugged. Any ideas?

 

So I replaced my bad ecu with a used one. The driveability issues have been resolved, and the check engine light is no longer flagged.

I checked codes, just to see if there was anything else I needed to fix and got the following numbers: 1-2-3-4-5. The LEDs flashed simultaneously like this : one long, two long, then 3, 4, and five short flashes. I have no idea what that means and have never heard of it.

The O2 sensor check worked fine, btw. Also, I ran this test several times, and even tried reinstalling the ecu- no change.

 

when you see both blinking together, when you see "3", turn the screw back to the left again. THEN it'll spit out your code(s). All the 1-2-3-4-5 thing is, is a mode selection, or a table of contents, if you will.

 

Aw hell, I forgot about that!

I forgot that this system was slightly different (5 mode) than my Z32's (2 mode). So the process is slightly more involved.

On that note, it seems like Nissan would have used a 5 mode system in the more expensive Z as well, right? And why did they put R-134a in my 93 Max GXE, but R-12 in my 93 Z? Interesting...

 

hey guys. i need a little help. i have a 1991 maxima. the guy i bought it from messed the connection for the oxygen sensor. he ended up cutting off the connector from the wiring harness and the connector on the o2 sensor and he spliced them together. the sensor is no good so i bought a new one but i have no idea if the guy has the wires spliced right or if they are crossed. the sensor has a black, a red, and a white wire. the harness has a green, a black, and a black & white wire? i think. can someone please upload a picture of the connection so i can see which color goes to which? either that or just let me know which colors go together? thanks

 

also, one of the studs on my exhaust manifold broke off. can i change this stud and the gasket without dropping the motor????

 

sorry, the harness has a thick black wire, a thin black wire, and a green wire.

 

Hello every one.
I have a weird question sort of.
I don't have a 3rd gen Maxima per se
I do have a 91 Maxima engine that im planning on swapping into a 77 datsun b210.

I need some help with the wiring for my engine.
I cant figure out where the engine harness and ECU tie into the battery and get power.
Ive been told theres a big red connector that connects that battery "harness" to the one that runs to the ecu. I cant seem to find one on my engine and harness and it has all the wires up to the ecu.
Any help or pictures would be greatly appreciated.

 

you, sir, could probably use the wiring schematic.
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/1994/
grab the foldout.pdf, should be all of pages 5-7.
if some stuff doesn't line up, send me a PM, and I'll try to scan the pages from my '91 FSM. there are some wiring differences, not sure if ECU is one of them (never bothered to look, and it's time for me to go to bed).
Good luck.

 

in addition to the questions above, i have another. Is there any difference between the ecu for a 91 maxima se and a 91 maxima ge? How about the distributor, are they interchangeable?

 

ECU is the same as long as you are matching trans for trans and emissions for emissions.
Distributor is exactly the same period

 

An update on this project. I replaced the injector and reassembled the plenum, but I had a leak at the injector because I re-used the old o-rings (because the "new" one I ordered in the mail didn't come with them... Bosch 62006 from RockAuto). Additionally, it sounded like the engine was still running on only five or four cylinders.

So I took everything apart again and decided to test each injector to see if they were working. I used the method depicted in the above graphic. It worked. Every single one of the injectors a clicking sound when I actuated the switch. Even my old injector, which I presumed dead, made a clicking sound. What was going on?? I cleaned the contacts some more and I finally got an ohm reading... 12.9-13.0 ohms. It was still good! Seems like there is excessive corrosion on the contacts. Does anyone have any recommendations? I tried electrical contact cleaner and, ironically, it doesn't really do anything.

 

I took one of those metal nail files, and went to work on one of mine, worked well. sand paper would work well, too. afterwords, apply dielectric grease, to prevent reoccurrence.

 

Hmm, but isn't the purpose of dielectric grease to retard conductivity?

 

As far as i know dielectric grease helps promote conductivity and retard corossion on electrical connections. I use it on most battery connections ect.