2000 Nissan Max SE with 71,658 miles. Since I bought the car, I have felt as though it is a little slower than usually since my dad has the exact same car and his seems alot quicker. Everything is stock, but the best times I have ever riden were 0-60 in 11 seconds. I really think there is a problem, but idk where to start to look. Any ideas?

Thanks

 

Thank you so much. Diagram really helped. I think I am going to go get them out of my old se that i flipped that is still in the junkyard. Should be cheaper then getting two new ones.

 

Very simple question. Want to access park light on side of 02 Maxima (not tail light).
There are cargo net clips on the trunk liner - are those retainer clips as well?
Not sure what is keeping the trunk liner in there and don't want to learn by busting it.

 

They act as retainer clips too (easier to pop, in my opinion).
If you are referring to the side markers, I don't think you can't access them from the trunk.

 

Side markers are just snapped in and must be pried out on the outside. I have one that I can not replace a busted bulb because no matter what I do, I can not pry it out. It has bruises, as well as the body has bruises. What the heck!

I am changing my busted rear bumper, that would be the time to do it!

 

Man I feel bad for complaining about running 0-60 in 8.1 seconds. I wishing mine was faster but 11 YEAH I would say there is something wrong. Is there any other issues you are haveing besides lack of power(runnign rough, missing???)

 

i was installing this headlight(left headlight) and the wire for the low beam touched the silver part(guessin its the grounding) and i heared a spark. now the low and high beam of the left headlight as well as both my fog lights not working. anyone knwo what the problem is?? what i need to fix and exactly where it is?>?

 

guess i should mention that the halo and parking lights still work and so does the right low and high beam

 

If you grounded out a wire, my first guess to be sure and check all fuse location for a blown one

 

hey all, my 2000 max. is overheating. In the last year and a half Ive replaced the water pump,the cooling fans,the radiator which I just replaced bout 4 months ago (still under warranty)and both t-stats,in that order.the only thing i havent replaced is the rad cap and the temp sending unit,only because its not showing codes.it just recently started to overheat because its starting to warm up. been pretty cold here in TX.anybody else have problems like this?

 

Under which conditions is it overheating? Seating in traffic? Going at highway speeds? At idle? Are your fans working properly or at all, eventhough they are practically new? How high is the needle going?

 

Aside from checking all possible fuses,have you checked the bulb itself? Have you checked the actual foglight relay under the hood? Radioshack has a $20 digital multimeter which comes in handy in this situation.

 

the car gets hot when Im driving so I have to turn the heater on full blast then the temp needle goes down, but if im idling the car doesnt get hot . weird.Ive checked the fans and they work in fact thats probably why it doesnt get hot when its idling.Ive heard that you have to bleed the radiator because it will get air pockets.true or urban legend?

 

If I let it, the needle will go all the way to the top which I have not let it get there.

 

yea the bulb is fine, i tested it on the right headlight. now earlier i started the car and fog lights came on but left headlights' highbeam n low beam still didnt work. after i turned it off couldnt get fog lights to work again.
and what is a digital multimeter and wats it do?
and where is fog lights relay??

 

Strange, considering you practically have new cooling system components.
Air pockets in the cooling system is not an urban legend; it is even mentioned in the FSM.
I wonder why was the water pump replaced first, and, assuming you were having overheating issues at the time, I also wonder if you continued to have those same issues after that, or why did you replace the other components. Also, were you the one who changed the pump or did someone did it for you? (just came to mind if the water pump was really replaced and, if so, if it was for a new one).
Have you checked if the coolant is really circulating? Is the upper radiator inlet hose getting hot as the thermostat opens?

 

I have A warpspeed Y-pipe and a GReddy evo2 Catback. i also straightpiped through my Catalytic convertor (no emissions in Montana) but not only has the volume of sound increased the quality of sound decreased significantly.. do you think a high flow cat would help reduce the lextremely loud Honda Civic sound. or is that just how it will always sound? Also i only have.. 100 miles on the Catback maybe the Muffler needs to be burned in a bit more before i change back to a Catalytic Convertor? any feedback would be much apprieciated.. even speculations

 

I replaced the water pump first because it was leaking water through the weep hole,then i replaced the fans cause they went out,i replaced the radiator because it was leaking where the plastic top meets the cooling fins and last i replaced the t-stats cause it pulled a code.it was running fine till last thursday when i noticed the sweet smell of coolant and kinda smiled and thought ,"somebodys car is getting hot",to my surprise it was mine! so I guess the next thing to do would be to bleed the system? I cant think of anything else that it could be. HELP!

 

I have had it for about three months now and it doesn't run rough except the gears take a really long time to change and they are the only thing that changes roughly. I know that its a 4 speed auto, but it still shouldn't be hittin 0-60 in 11 but I just wanted to know where I should start looking(Exhaust, Y-pipe, Headers maybye?)

 

Hello I'm trying to add passanger power seat to non power setup. What is required to get power to the passanger seat? I already got the replacement seats (leather) n wanna complete steps prior to install so I can move seat when its installed. Thank you

 

i managed to install the ram(short) weapon r intake and it came with an extender so i could get cold air where ever i extended it to. my question is where is the best spot to put it because am scared water might get pulled in there when its rainin or something.

 

Catalytic converters also "muffle" the sound. If you take them out, your sound will change. It's as simple as that.

I am assuming you either added sensor simulators or kept the sensors in place, since otherwise you'll have the ECU trying to do all sorts of things with the timing, ultimately turning on the service light and going into limp mode. That'll change the sound your exhaust makes too.

And just because you can, does not mean you should remove or disable emissions controls. In the 80's before mature electronic controls this may have helped, but in modern cars it tends to do more harm than good.

 

Under your passenger seat there may or may not be a set of power plugs you can plug the seat into. If it's not there, you'll have to run your own cables from the fuse box (yes, you'll want to make sure there is a fuse somewhere, as I am sure your passenger won't appreciate an electrical fire under their behind). The other option is to get the wiring harness part - look at wreckers, or call Courtesy Nissan Parts, which may even have diagrams online.

 

There is no "bleed the system" procedure in the technical sense for the Nissan Maxima. There is either air in there or not.

Did you check your coolant level after you filled it and drove it for a while? Did you mix your anti-freeze 50/50 with water?

Did you follow the "normal procedure" for refilling your cooling system, or just filled up the radiator and drove away?

That's what it sounds like, although that could also be my prejudice against people who can't be bothered with appropriate grammar and punctuation, since it shows a lack of attention to detail. There, I admitted it. No offense meant, I am just saying that some people will have trouble taking you seriously.

Here is the procedure:

 

^^homeyclaus, it looks like you quoted the wrong poster on your post #10342 above. Looks more like you meant to quote 00Blacked from post #10337

There is a more detailed reference to "bleed the system" on the maintenance section of the FSM, page MA-16. You might want to chek that.

 

Per this copy, http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/2000.5_Maxima/ma.pdf, there is no mention of the word "bleed" in reference to the cooling system. Just "flush" and "refill." Which version are you looking at?

No, I intended to user "Big O"'s reply.

 

I was looking at the same version. Take a look at page MA-16, item number 12 from that same link you posted;
"If sound is heard, bleed air from cooling system by repeating steps 5 through 8 until coolant level no longer drops".

I still think you quoted the wrong poster on post #10342. Your comment has nothing to do with cooling system. Just scroll up, loctate post #10342 and take another look.....
This is your post below:

 

Ah, page 16, you're right. Reading is fundamental.

In the context of a cooling system, bleeding is generally what you need to do to make a Chrysler K-Car motor's cooling system work again - they have a bleed screw just above the thermostat housing, and Chevy small blocks have a screw to the right of the distributor (newer ones have a fitting and a hose T'ing into the heater hose for better coolant flow).

Normal cars like the Maxima don't need a seal to be broken other than the radiator cap to get the coolant to flow like it's supposed to, since the bubbles come out on their own if you let them.

Got it, you're right. I'll correct that so it's not so misleading, sorry.

 

Homeyclaus, I did everyting you just posted to do when filling the radiator, I even raised the car from the front just to be sure I got all the air bubbles out, made sure it was warm then topped it off and filled the resevoir tank and took a nice leisurely cruise in it but it still gets hot. Im at my wits end Im gonna double check everything one more time just to make sure I didnt miss anything. If and when I find whats wrong Ill let you know.P.S. I thought my grammar and punctuation were ok.I know my spelling was spot on as I was 4th and 5th grade spelling champion .

 

Anyone know what kind of gains can be expected from a customexhaust 2.5" all the way back including new Y-pipe flex pipe 22" resonator and magnaflow muffler?

 

I am still trying to find where to get a Y pipe for a 2K. I cant seem to find one???

 

Now that you mention it, your spelling is fine, except for the lack of apostrophes and commas, although that's technically grammar too. Then there is the one space needed after a period, or a comma, to make things easier to read.

If you did all that, and you said you were overheating when speeding, and if you're not doing an illegal speed (you know, like 200 mph or something): if it cools down on idle, I would check which radiator hose feeds the cold water from the radiator to the engine. Go to a parts store and look at a new hose - if there is a spring in the new one to prevent it from collapsing when your engine sucks coolant from the radiator, make sure it's there on your Maxima. I'd also check if the hose is okay, and not soft and totally squishy, because it needs to be stiff enough not to collapse when your engine is pulling in water at three times the rate it is at idle.

The next suspicion I'd have is your water pump. I know you replaced it, but perhaps there is a gasket not in the right place, or something that's impeding coolant flow.

I have had issues on VWs with a new, rebuilt water pump once, and oddly enough, replacement thermostats more than once. They fit, look exactly the same, when dropped into hot water open like the original, but for some reason the engine overheats. I assume you replaced the thermostats last - did it make the problem worse, or better?

I also assume you've read this:
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/2000.5_Maxima/lc.pdf

 

There are all sorts of discussion about this. I searched for the terms "y pipe horsepower" and there was all sorts of stuff.

You can find them for sale in the Group Deals/Sponsors forum.

 

LMK if you're really interested and I'll have an extra one made up for you. I'm having my system put in on Wednesday next week. This guy is the best there is, all stainless and fit right up to your precat flange.

 

It would be summer before I can put one on. I have to do my stuts first(they are shot) How long is the offer and whats the price?




I might be ble to do something if itsa deal I cant pass up( I just cant let the wife know )

 

i managed to install the ram(short) weapon r intake and it came with an extender so i could get cold air where ever i extended it to. my question is where is the best spot to put it because am scared water might get pulled in there when its rainin or something.

 

It can be done at any time, I'll find out on Wednesday about individual pricing, he's doing a package price for me with install for $1100. That's the Y-pipe new flanges, flex pipe, using stock Cat, either 22" res or two 14" res haven't decided yet, 2.5" stainless piping throughout mandrel bent and a Dynaflow or Borla exhaust.

 

Thanks, Let me know what you find out!!!!!!

 

Since this is where I asked, I found the peice at the dealership. This is what I did to replace my dead stock radio

(I really like how it turned out)

 

I have just recently bought a '00 Maxima SE. I have only had it about 16 days and around the 13th day my CEL came on and gave me the P0305 (cylinder 5 Missfire) code. The car is juddery in low rpm's and it does have a performance loss.

I have done some searching on here and the general concensus is coil packs. I had a buddy at Advance Auto pull the codes, and asked him for some info. Immediately he said coilpacks or sparkplugs. When i purchased the car they changed the Brakes, plugs, and oil for me. So im pretty sure its not the plugs. Apart from the coilpacks could it be anything else?