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is this cheap crap...

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Old 11-12-2014, 07:24 PM
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is this cheap crap...

or are drilled rotors really this cheap?

http://www.jegs.com/i/Power+Stop/419/K1169-26/10002/-1

http://www.jegs.com/i/Power+Stop/419/KC2704/10002/-1

Last edited by cdoublejj; 11-12-2014 at 07:41 PM.
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Old 11-12-2014, 08:05 PM
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They can be had for cheaper than that. Check ebay.
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Old 11-12-2014, 08:29 PM
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RiCe
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Old 11-15-2014, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by cdoublejj
or are drilled rotors really this cheap?
I have purchased PowerStop brake kit from RockAuto.com - $150 for all four wheels (incl. shipping, for my 2000 SE), plain, non-drilled. I am extremely satisfied with their quality and how they work. Smooth, no measurable runout. My prior set-up was Brembo blanks + Raybestos pads; it started to develop brake judder few months after installation, and the judder continued to get worse until I couldn't take it anymore and installed the PowerStops.

Don't go with drilled/slotted. There are numerous posts on this forum that explain why a plain rotor is a better choice.
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Old 11-15-2014, 12:53 PM
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^^Its not crap...and the posted prices on the link arent cheap either. They can be had for lesser money. Power stop is a hair above mid grade stuff imo.

Stick to a quality blank rotor imo and a nice pad.
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Old 11-15-2014, 01:53 PM
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no complaints from me. I use them with my 6gen fronts and 5.5 gen rears. They stay clean and rust free and in combination with a premium set of pads stopping power is great. They don't feel any different then the blanks I had on before.
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Old 11-16-2014, 11:08 AM
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what i use and they are good...
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Old 11-16-2014, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by maxiiiboy
I have purchased PowerStop brake kit from RockAuto.com - $150 for all four wheels (incl. shipping, for my 2000 SE), plain, non-drilled. I am extremely satisfied with their quality and how they work. Smooth, no measurable runout. My prior set-up was Brembo blanks + Raybestos pads; it started to develop brake judder few months after installation, and the judder continued to get worse until I couldn't take it anymore and installed the PowerStops.

Don't go with drilled/slotted. There are numerous posts on this forum that explain why a plain rotor is a better choice.
I'll have to try and do searches for that any tips on search terms to use? the only time i have seen/had any issues is when getting PLAIN rotors DRILLED, are S10 after any many years is starting to get hair line fracturing around the edges of the holes. drilled, slotted or both can dissipate heat better, that you mean to say get 1 or or the other, as you said your are happy with your slotted rotors.

is a PowerStop a good brand or is just hard to go wrong?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261600726667...667%26_rdc%3D1

{did not see drilled only PowerStop front and rear kit on ebay}

EDIT:

trust me i really regret getting the crossd rilled/slotted.....because.....drilled takes of surface area off the rotor, and slotted kills the life of the pad almost in 1/2....get a brembo blank with a hawk pad i promise you wont regret it
if that's any thing to go by then cross drilled alone should be just fine. also not 100% but, i think they make different pads out of diff materials that might play ball with slotted better.

still reading up...

EDIT: these ones cost as much as that set of 4 with pads:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-FRONT-R1-P...aa9083&vxp=mtr

i wonder if it's more money for less/nothing?

EDIT: got deep in to maxima org terratory here, there is torrent of information and mud slinging.

NO left is correct and right is wrong.

NO right is correct and LEFT is wrong.

https://maxima.org/forums/6th-genera...rs-brakes.html

here have a look at this thread,

https://maxima.org/forums/6th-genera...s-6th-gen.html

notice any thing they are talking about slotted rotors on that nascar, it is not cross drilled... not the active cooling.

then there is talks about slots being for racing to remove glazing, then one guys says modern pads don't glaze but, he doesn't care to mention in what respect!? DD? Racing? Heavy duty? WHAT!?

then there is talk about slotted AND OR drilled causing weakness and cuasing fracutring. i have seen the fractring first hand on my truck but ,they blanks that were later drilled they were not made that. way. Then you have metallurgical compounds, casting methods and techniques and then on top of that usage and environment!!

i haven't even gotten to these threads yet.

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...sawblades.html

https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...s-automax.html

https://maxima.org/forums/6th-genera...ors-setup.html

https://maxima.org/forums/6th-genera...n-braking.html

https://maxima.org/forums/6th-genera...rs-brakes.html


so i still have a lot of reading to do.

One thing i want from my rotors... ....well have any of road tripped from th east coast or mid west out to California? I have and i also have some friends who have as well. if you have some blanks or oriellies blanks and go through the mountains like in Colorado. You cna kiss them puppies good buy and as wheels emanate a red glow as you brake for minutes on end at 70mp down a 12+ % grade.

Blanks have the best stopping power but, they don't always have the best cooling and sometimes that can be be important. I know buddy put this blanks he had drilled on my S10 through their paces on the Tail Of Dragon and i know they have been on their for like 5-6+ years too. I have to wonder if the northern mid west winters are what caused them to start hairline fracturing around the holes and again that screwing with plain rotors which your not supposed to. They big holes too, the guy was supposed ot drill small holes but, they ended up working well on the dragon.

The point being cross drilled have better cooling since the air can flow in and out of the veins and walls. Slotted on adds a little bit of surface are and very very minimal air movement but, not necessarily minimal cooling improvement.

Another thing to consider with blanks is metallurgical compounds like i said earlier that can go both ways, for all i know there some bad *** blanks out there that can take the red hot heat with out warping.

AGAIN i'm still reading and posting as i go along. ...and heck for all i know i'm over thinking it though in reality i think far you take all this information depends on the application/usage.

...oh and pads i'm looking at some HAWK HPSs,

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...1&autoModClar=

a little dustier and noisier but, good stopping power! at least according to tirerack's little dot graph.

Last edited by cdoublejj; 11-16-2014 at 07:51 PM.
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