5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
10-12-2007, 03:00 PM
#3322
Long term fuel trim of 33%???
Just got a check engline light on my 2001 GLE:
I pulled code P0171 - System too lean, Bank 1. Both banks have a long term fuel trim of 33.6%. (What's a normal long term trim? ~5%? Is 33.6% crazy?)
I have always gotten horrible mileage, 320km/tank (~14 mpg), stop and go driving.
Car surges for maybe 15s when the engine/outside is cold, but it runs fine after.
Where should I start with this? O2 sensor? Fuel injectors? MAF?
Thanks for your help!
I pulled code P0171 - System too lean, Bank 1. Both banks have a long term fuel trim of 33.6%. (What's a normal long term trim? ~5%? Is 33.6% crazy?)
I have always gotten horrible mileage, 320km/tank (~14 mpg), stop and go driving.
Car surges for maybe 15s when the engine/outside is cold, but it runs fine after.
Where should I start with this? O2 sensor? Fuel injectors? MAF?
Thanks for your help!
Last edited by AaronL; 10-12-2007 at 05:11 PM.
10-12-2007, 08:51 PM
#3323
10-12-2007, 08:57 PM
#3324
Just got a check engline light on my 2001 GLE:
I pulled code P0171 - System too lean, Bank 1. Both banks have a long term fuel trim of 33.6%. (What's a normal long term trim? ~5%? Is 33.6% crazy?)
I have always gotten horrible mileage, 320km/tank (~14 mpg), stop and go driving.
Car surges for maybe 15s when the engine/outside is cold, but it runs fine after.
Where should I start with this? O2 sensor? Fuel injectors? MAF?
Thanks for your help!
I pulled code P0171 - System too lean, Bank 1. Both banks have a long term fuel trim of 33.6%. (What's a normal long term trim? ~5%? Is 33.6% crazy?)
I have always gotten horrible mileage, 320km/tank (~14 mpg), stop and go driving.
Car surges for maybe 15s when the engine/outside is cold, but it runs fine after.
Where should I start with this? O2 sensor? Fuel injectors? MAF?
Thanks for your help!
10-12-2007, 09:33 PM
#3325
10-12-2007, 09:39 PM
#3326
I dont think coils would have much to do w/ the motor running too lean, although you should probably go ahead and change them. Sounds to me like fuel delivery issues would be my first guess.
Dont our cars go into safe mode when the maf goes bad and run pretty rich?
Dont our cars go into safe mode when the maf goes bad and run pretty rich?
10-13-2007, 10:25 AM
#3327
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1
2001 maxima SE idle problems
I have a 2001 Maxima SE it had a high idle (1500 rpm) and the check engine light on and it said that the air idle control vavle needed to be change so i changed it and now it idles back and forth between 1200 to 1500 rpm. I thought that the new air idle control vavle was bad so I had it replaced again but the problem was still there. any help would be great
10-13-2007, 03:47 PM
#3328
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (29)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
Posts: 4,572
I have a 2001 Maxima SE it had a high idle (1500 rpm) and the check engine light on and it said that the air idle control vavle needed to be change so i changed it and now it idles back and forth between 1200 to 1500 rpm. I thought that the new air idle control vavle was bad so I had it replaced again but the problem was still there. any help would be great
Several .org members have had a bad IACV damage that section of the ECU, a costly replacement, but first I must ask.......... Did you perform the Idle Air Volume relearn procedure? Download the FSM from VQ35DE.com
10-13-2007, 03:53 PM
#3329
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (29)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
Posts: 4,572
Just got a check engline light on my 2001 GLE:
I pulled code P0171 - System too lean, Bank 1. Both banks have a long term fuel trim of 33.6%. (What's a normal long term trim? ~5%? Is 33.6% crazy?)
I have always gotten horrible mileage, 320km/tank (~14 mpg), stop and go driving.
Car surges for maybe 15s when the engine/outside is cold, but it runs fine after.
Where should I start with this? O2 sensor? Fuel injectors? MAF?
Thanks for your help!
I pulled code P0171 - System too lean, Bank 1. Both banks have a long term fuel trim of 33.6%. (What's a normal long term trim? ~5%? Is 33.6% crazy?)
I have always gotten horrible mileage, 320km/tank (~14 mpg), stop and go driving.
Car surges for maybe 15s when the engine/outside is cold, but it runs fine after.
Where should I start with this? O2 sensor? Fuel injectors? MAF?
Thanks for your help!
1: Fuel delivery problem, engines need more fuel when they are cold
2: Vacuum leak that get's better when parts heat up and expand
3: Bad maf, since during this time the ecu is functioning in open-loop mode and does not use o2's, it uses maf etc even under 3k/wot
As you can see, all three of those things can also cause a system lean code.... but maf get's my vote.
10-13-2007, 04:47 PM
#3330
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 10
Hi guys
I have a question, my car (2002 maxima SE) just made some strange noise for the first time. It happened when my friend entered the passenger side of the car, a squeeky or a cranking type of noise came from the bottom of the car or around there, and when he entered it stopped, and when I entered the driver side it made a the same kinda squeeky/cranking noise, I told him to get out and to enter again, then the noise stopped after like the 3rd time of him getting in and out, I figured it might be my tire pressure? After a few errands and getting in and out of the car, the noise has not returned.
any advice?? Thank You in advance
I have a question, my car (2002 maxima SE) just made some strange noise for the first time. It happened when my friend entered the passenger side of the car, a squeeky or a cranking type of noise came from the bottom of the car or around there, and when he entered it stopped, and when I entered the driver side it made a the same kinda squeeky/cranking noise, I told him to get out and to enter again, then the noise stopped after like the 3rd time of him getting in and out, I figured it might be my tire pressure? After a few errands and getting in and out of the car, the noise has not returned.
any advice?? Thank You in advance
10-13-2007, 08:12 PM
#3331
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: seattle area
Posts: 159
i just put in a new alternator in my 2000 max. but for some reason the alty turns off after "sprinted driving" or sometimes it randomly turns off. i turn the car off, turn it back on and everything returns to normal. i can tell it shuts off because the battery, break and airbag light goes on, and the headlights are dim. i cheaked the connections to the alty, it seems they are okay. any idea?
10-13-2007, 10:44 PM
#3332
i just put in a new alternator in my 2000 max. but for some reason the alty turns off after "sprinted driving" or sometimes it randomly turns off. i turn the car off, turn it back on and everything returns to normal. i can tell it shuts off because the battery, break and airbag light goes on, and the headlights are dim. i cheaked the connections to the alty, it seems they are okay. any idea?
get it tested at autozone or something check to see if its good.
10-14-2007, 11:55 AM
#3333
Yes, around 3-5% is average for the LTFT's, IIRC +/-25% is when the ecu will throw a rich/lean code. Maf gets my vote, it's such a common issue for the 5th gens and gives those exact symptoms. However, the surging when cold could be three things...
1: Fuel delivery problem, engines need more fuel when they are cold
2: Vacuum leak that get's better when parts heat up and expand
3: Bad maf, since during this time the ecu is functioning in open-loop mode and does not use o2's, it uses maf etc even under 3k/wot
As you can see, all three of those things can also cause a system lean code.... but maf get's my vote.
1: Fuel delivery problem, engines need more fuel when they are cold
2: Vacuum leak that get's better when parts heat up and expand
3: Bad maf, since during this time the ecu is functioning in open-loop mode and does not use o2's, it uses maf etc even under 3k/wot
As you can see, all three of those things can also cause a system lean code.... but maf get's my vote.
I'm not too worried about the surging, since I only get that if the engine is cold and I start driving immediately - if I let the engine idle for even 30s it's ok. If it gets worse then I'll start worrying
Is replacing the MAF a pretty easy job? I tried searching but couldn't find any howto's on it - which is surprising, given how many must have been replaced.
10-14-2007, 12:55 PM
#3334
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: seattle area
Posts: 159
10-14-2007, 03:48 PM
#3336
I just want to add that some may say that the ECU shouldn't have to be reprogrammed, but a tech in my shop has the same car with the same problem, he replaced the MAF and an two of the four O2 sensors. He refused to go get the ECU reprogrammed and his car is still throwin check engine lights no matter how many times he clears them.
It could also be none of those are the problem.
10-14-2007, 04:29 PM
#3338
It's definitely the MAF. Previous owner said he replaced it, but I'm not convinced after tearing out the airbox last night. Looks like it hasn't been touched in years.
The bolts I'm talking about are the two on either side of the MAF sensor holding it in the tube. Torx style with the center post. Maybe they include the tube with the MAF when you buy one?
I did a little searching and it's called a 'Tamper Resistant Torx' bolt.
The bolts I'm talking about are the two on either side of the MAF sensor holding it in the tube. Torx style with the center post. Maybe they include the tube with the MAF when you buy one?
I did a little searching and it's called a 'Tamper Resistant Torx' bolt.
10-14-2007, 05:09 PM
#3339
65 is the RATIO of tire width to tire height. This is what's normally referred to as the PROFILE. The lower the profile the less sidewall compared to the tire contact patch width.
10-14-2007, 06:13 PM
#3340
im having problems with my trnny can anyone help me..???:
10-14-2007, 06:17 PM
#3341
This is one of those things that you just go ahead and replace. They shouldn't cost that much, even at the dealer but will pay you back shedloads later on. Like 3 months down the road when you start getting a little drip that you KNOW wouldn't be there if you'd just gone ahead and replaced them.
10-14-2007, 06:27 PM
#3342
Rotors today have barely enough mass to dissapte the heat generated already. Manufacturers started doing this is the late 70 to cut weight and rotating mass to increase fuel mileage for CAFE requirements.
When the rotors can't disapate heat fast enough they have a tendancy to warp.
Even those crappy Autozone/Advanced Auto/Kragen/O'reilly generic blanks are better then turned OEM units.
While I haven't checked prices for gen5/5.5 vehicles, typical aftermarket prices for generic rotors usually runs $20-30 each for other vehicles.
10-14-2007, 07:13 PM
#3343
thankx for your replies. I have another question for manual tranny fluid change. I read the DIY for doing the fluid change and it seems almost identical to doing an engine oil change - except for one part - there are no instructions to change a filter. Is there a filter for manual tranny fluid that needs to be changed as part of regular maintenance like engine oil filters?
I haven't read the DIY FAQ, but hopefully it instructs you to remove the filler plug as the FIRST step. Nothing like draining out all the trany fluid and then finding that you don't have the right tool or the filler just won't come out. Shouldn't happen on a vehicle of this era, but Murphy can show up ANYWHERE and ANYTIME.
10-14-2007, 07:45 PM
#3344
My stock clutch has dealt with 120,000 miles and about 20 autocrosses, plus ALOT of city and bumper-to-bumper traffic. When it eventually goes, I will put another OEM clutch in.
As for what others are using, here's a few links that should help you out, though I don't think a big percentage of guys here have aftermarket clutches.
edit: well, after doing a search for you, I found pretty much JACK for clutch discussion on the 5th gen forum....so here are some links from the 4th gen guys. i haven't read them, so sorry if they don't have much info...
As for what others are using, here's a few links that should help you out, though I don't think a big percentage of guys here have aftermarket clutches.
edit: well, after doing a search for you, I found pretty much JACK for clutch discussion on the 5th gen forum....so here are some links from the 4th gen guys. i haven't read them, so sorry if they don't have much info...
10-14-2007, 07:50 PM
#3345
Q: Why is this forum so utterly frustrating to use?
Yes, I am new here. Yes, I notice the 50 threads directing me how to find information. The problem is it doesn't work. For example, in the FAQ sticky, all 6 of the links under "Intake" go to the wrong pages, or sometimes no page at all. Same result in the how-to sticky. Same result when I find links using the search button.
I can't even find my previous posts in this thread, for crying out loud! I went to my profile and clicked on "view previous posts" and it said I didn't have permission.
What's a newb to do?
Q: What happened to Cattman's website? Is the company still up and running? I had sent a few emails back and forth with the guy there and he stopped responding a few days ago when the website went down.
Yes, I am new here. Yes, I notice the 50 threads directing me how to find information. The problem is it doesn't work. For example, in the FAQ sticky, all 6 of the links under "Intake" go to the wrong pages, or sometimes no page at all. Same result in the how-to sticky. Same result when I find links using the search button.
I can't even find my previous posts in this thread, for crying out loud! I went to my profile and clicked on "view previous posts" and it said I didn't have permission.
What's a newb to do?
Q: What happened to Cattman's website? Is the company still up and running? I had sent a few emails back and forth with the guy there and he stopped responding a few days ago when the website went down.
10-15-2007, 12:36 AM
#3346
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Houston,TX
Posts: 899
Q: Why is this forum so utterly frustrating to use?
Yes, I am new here. Yes, I notice the 50 threads directing me how to find information. The problem is it doesn't work. For example, in the FAQ sticky, all 6 of the links under "Intake" go to the wrong pages, or sometimes no page at all. Same result in the how-to sticky. Same result when I find links using the search button.
I can't even find my previous posts in this thread, for crying out loud! I went to my profile and clicked on "view previous posts" and it said I didn't have permission.
What's a newb to do?
Q: What happened to Cattman's website? Is the company still up and running? I had sent a few emails back and forth with the guy there and he stopped responding a few days ago when the website went down.
Yes, I am new here. Yes, I notice the 50 threads directing me how to find information. The problem is it doesn't work. For example, in the FAQ sticky, all 6 of the links under "Intake" go to the wrong pages, or sometimes no page at all. Same result in the how-to sticky. Same result when I find links using the search button.
I can't even find my previous posts in this thread, for crying out loud! I went to my profile and clicked on "view previous posts" and it said I didn't have permission.
What's a newb to do?
Q: What happened to Cattman's website? Is the company still up and running? I had sent a few emails back and forth with the guy there and he stopped responding a few days ago when the website went down.
from what i hear, this website crashed several weeks back and had to be completely overhauled..... they are apparently still working on restoring as many of the stickies and original links as they can...(it may take some time) so be patient my friend and ask your questions here for the time being.... just dont post anything too stoopid...
10-15-2007, 06:14 AM
#3347
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Posts: 385
is this a good deal?
Hi... i am in need of a new car... and want something really reliable nice and efficient...
i had been looking at various honda accords for a while... i finally found one... and the deal fell apart at the last minute... was really upset about that.... anyways...
now im looking at the maximas... i see a really nice condition 2002 SE... fully loaded... except for nav... 118,000 miles... the guy has no maintance records of it... it was bought at dealership auction by another small dealership... the carfax shows that it is a single owner car....
and drives flawlessly... not a single problem in the driving... but then again... no records of what was done...
---
NOW my problem is... i KNOW that the maximas have all sorts of electronic problems... my friend has a 2001 that he is paying left and right for 02 sensors and MAF , and valve coils...
i want to know if the newer 2002 with the vq35de have the same things going on...
the car is being sold at 8grand... im gonna try haggling it down.... its the 6sp manual
thank you.
i just wanna steer clear of it.. .if there are known problems to that particular model....cause i cant afford 500$ repairs every few months... im a college student.
i had been looking at various honda accords for a while... i finally found one... and the deal fell apart at the last minute... was really upset about that.... anyways...
now im looking at the maximas... i see a really nice condition 2002 SE... fully loaded... except for nav... 118,000 miles... the guy has no maintance records of it... it was bought at dealership auction by another small dealership... the carfax shows that it is a single owner car....
and drives flawlessly... not a single problem in the driving... but then again... no records of what was done...
---
NOW my problem is... i KNOW that the maximas have all sorts of electronic problems... my friend has a 2001 that he is paying left and right for 02 sensors and MAF , and valve coils...
i want to know if the newer 2002 with the vq35de have the same things going on...
the car is being sold at 8grand... im gonna try haggling it down.... its the 6sp manual
thank you.
i just wanna steer clear of it.. .if there are known problems to that particular model....cause i cant afford 500$ repairs every few months... im a college student.
10-15-2007, 11:31 AM
#3348
or you can just check Crutchfield.com punch in your car make and model and they tell you what fits - if you think their too pricey right down the unit you want and search for the best deal..Crutchfield is the best - I installed my own and Im not the handiest when it comes to installing anything - then again this site has helped me out BIGTIME.. I got me an ALPINE MP3 player for 150 with the install kit and an extra adapter since I had the BOSE unit..
10-15-2007, 12:28 PM
#3349
(insert witty one liner)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 144
Q: Why is this forum so utterly frustrating to use?
Yes, I am new here. Yes, I notice the 50 threads directing me how to find information. The problem is it doesn't work. For example, in the FAQ sticky, all 6 of the links under "Intake" go to the wrong pages, or sometimes no page at all. Same result in the how-to sticky. Same result when I find links using the search button.
Yes, I am new here. Yes, I notice the 50 threads directing me how to find information. The problem is it doesn't work. For example, in the FAQ sticky, all 6 of the links under "Intake" go to the wrong pages, or sometimes no page at all. Same result in the how-to sticky. Same result when I find links using the search button.
10-15-2007, 01:08 PM
#3350
Hey all, hate to sound like a noob - but i am one - thus the reason i post here on this thread.
anyways - i been reading about some people on this board saying the want to go "one step colder" with their spark plugs. Could somebody explain to me what this is about? Spark plugs have temperature ratings? are we talking about the temperature of the spark? the temperature that spark plug can tolerate? what is meant by "going colder"? What is the advantage of going colder? Where on the spark plug specs does it mention anything about temperature? When I buy spark plugs - do I have to check that the spark plug temperature matches OEM specs? I cant just go anywhere and ask for NGK's or Denso's?
anyways - i been reading about some people on this board saying the want to go "one step colder" with their spark plugs. Could somebody explain to me what this is about? Spark plugs have temperature ratings? are we talking about the temperature of the spark? the temperature that spark plug can tolerate? what is meant by "going colder"? What is the advantage of going colder? Where on the spark plug specs does it mention anything about temperature? When I buy spark plugs - do I have to check that the spark plug temperature matches OEM specs? I cant just go anywhere and ask for NGK's or Denso's?
On normally aspirated vehicles you wouldn't want to use a colder plug. It probably would decrease you mileage since it wouldn't burn the fuel as completely. It might even lead to plug fouling.
10-15-2007, 01:11 PM
#3351
This is a common trick that people with Supercharged or Turbo'd cars use to keep from pre-detonation. They can also retard the timing a degree or two for a similar effect.
On normally aspirated vehicles you wouldn't want to use a colder plug. It probably would decrease you mileage since it wouldn't burn the fuel as completely. It might even lead to plug fouling.
On normally aspirated vehicles you wouldn't want to use a colder plug. It probably would decrease you mileage since it wouldn't burn the fuel as completely. It might even lead to plug fouling.
http://www.ngk.de/Spark_plugs.649.0.html
10-15-2007, 01:41 PM
#3352
10-15-2007, 01:58 PM
#3353
Ok, guys, Im desperate. I need a passenger side axle for my car. I called all the auto parts stores and most of them cant even get one. I got one from a parts store today, but it was not long enough?!?! Now im getting desperate. I have an 02 SE with 6 speed. Anyone know of a place i can get one?
10-15-2007, 04:14 PM
#3356
10-15-2007, 04:21 PM
#3357
every 5k miles should be fine.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=166313
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=166313
10-15-2007, 04:32 PM
#3358
Well I'm new...
I am new here but have some questions
1) Google search all messed up?
When I use google search, none of the threads seem to match. Also, some of the thread in the FAQ don't match the title. Is there a thread explaining why they are out of sync? In other words, I click the link and it either tells me its an invalid thread or the thread is different.
2) 2000 versus 2000.5+
I have read that there was a change in 2000.5+ models, is there a thread or can someone explain to me the differences
3) Do 02/03 HID headlights fit 00/01 cleanly, is it just a matter of wiring? Is there a write up somewhere?
4) Are those HID headlights on ebay any good fit and quality wise?
5) Is there a thread outlining some of the smaller differences between the 00/01 and 02/03 other than the obvious more hp, HID headlights, taillights, etc?
6) In the 00/01 world, DID any trim level other than the '01 Anniversary Edition come with the VLSD? It seems like in previous years more trims/models had it, why did nissan get rid of it?
7) When looking at 00/01 any things I should check carefully visually/mechanically, what are common problems. I have heard coil packs are very common.
8)What is the "-K" in VQ30DE-K, I know the rest of it, but not sure on that...
Thanks a lot for your help, I hope I can contribute something to the forum. Currently I am looking at 00/01 Maxima SEs. I do appreciate it! FWIW, I did search and have read a lot of stuff, but with the links being out of sync, searching got tiring real fast. I guess I need to become a sponsor ASAP
1) Google search all messed up?
When I use google search, none of the threads seem to match. Also, some of the thread in the FAQ don't match the title. Is there a thread explaining why they are out of sync? In other words, I click the link and it either tells me its an invalid thread or the thread is different.
2) 2000 versus 2000.5+
I have read that there was a change in 2000.5+ models, is there a thread or can someone explain to me the differences
3) Do 02/03 HID headlights fit 00/01 cleanly, is it just a matter of wiring? Is there a write up somewhere?
4) Are those HID headlights on ebay any good fit and quality wise?
5) Is there a thread outlining some of the smaller differences between the 00/01 and 02/03 other than the obvious more hp, HID headlights, taillights, etc?
6) In the 00/01 world, DID any trim level other than the '01 Anniversary Edition come with the VLSD? It seems like in previous years more trims/models had it, why did nissan get rid of it?
7) When looking at 00/01 any things I should check carefully visually/mechanically, what are common problems. I have heard coil packs are very common.
8)What is the "-K" in VQ30DE-K, I know the rest of it, but not sure on that...
Thanks a lot for your help, I hope I can contribute something to the forum. Currently I am looking at 00/01 Maxima SEs. I do appreciate it! FWIW, I did search and have read a lot of stuff, but with the links being out of sync, searching got tiring real fast. I guess I need to become a sponsor ASAP
Last edited by merlin2375; 10-15-2007 at 04:43 PM.
10-15-2007, 04:58 PM
#3359
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 8
2 odd problems, are they linked?
When I put on my rear defroster, my radio goes fuzzy and it barely defrosts the rear window. Second problem is, my keyfob will lock my car and the panic button works, but the unlock will not work. I bought a new keyfob, and same problem. Are these problems linked? I did a few searches and it seems like it could either be the BCM or the SECU, any ideas? Thanks.
When I put on my rear defroster, my radio goes fuzzy and it barely defrosts the rear window. Second problem is, my keyfob will lock my car and the panic button works, but the unlock will not work. I bought a new keyfob, and same problem. Are these problems linked? I did a few searches and it seems like it could either be the BCM or the SECU, any ideas? Thanks.
10-15-2007, 08:25 PM
#3360
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/4...6f015c3dac.htm